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1 – 10 of over 3000
Article
Publication date: 1 August 2016

Jaewoong Lee and InHwan Sul

As an extended work of the previous paper (Sul, 2010), this paper provides a guideline information for an anonymous garment pattern in sewing process. The purpose of this paper is…

Abstract

Purpose

As an extended work of the previous paper (Sul, 2010), this paper provides a guideline information for an anonymous garment pattern in sewing process. The purpose of this paper is to first, provide garment pattern database. By simply taking pictures of garment patterns, the shape database is constructed. Once the shape database is prepared, data retrieval can be done by image indexing, i.e., simply inserting garment pattern boundary shape again to the database. Using shock graph methodology, the pattern sets used for database preparation can be exactly retrieved. Second, to find the nearest shape of a given input pattern shape in the database. If the input garment pattern shape does not exist in the database, the shape matching algorithm provides the next similar pattern data. The user, who is assumed to be non-expert in garment sewing process, can easily predict the position and combination information of various patterns.

Design/methodology/approach

Image processing is used to construct the garment pattern shape database. The boundary shapes are extracted from the photographs of garment patterns and their shape recognition information, especially shock graph, is also recorded for later pattern data retrieval.

Findings

Using the image processing technique, garment patterns can be converted to electronic format easily. Also the prepared pattern database can be used for finding the nearest shape of an additional given input garment pattern. Patterns with irregular shapes were retrieved easily, while those with a simple shape, such as rectangle, showed a little erroneous result.

Originality/value

Shape recognition has been adopted in various industrial areas, except for garment sewing process. Using the provided methodology, garment pattern shapes can be easily saved and retrieved only by taking pictures of them.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 30 January 2007

Sungmin Kim and Chang Kyu Park

The generation of individually fit basic garment pattern is one of the most important steps in the garment‐manufacturing process. This paper seeks to present a new methodology to…

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Abstract

Purpose

The generation of individually fit basic garment pattern is one of the most important steps in the garment‐manufacturing process. This paper seeks to present a new methodology to generate basic patterns of various sizes and styles using three‐dimensional geometric modeling method.

Design/methodology/approach

The geometry of a garment is divided into fit zone and fashion zone. The geometry of fit zone is prepared from 3D body scan data and can be resized parametrically. The fashion zone is modeled using various parameters characterizing the aesthetic appearance of garments. Finally, the 3D garment model is projected into corresponding flat panels considering the physical properties of the base material as well as the producibility of the garment.

Findings

The main findings were geometric modeling and flat pattern generation method for various garments.

Originality/value

Parametrically deformable garment models enable the design of garments with various size and silhouette so that designers can obtain flat patterns of complex garments before actually making them. Also the number and direction of darts can be determined automatically considering the physical property of fabric.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 19 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 October 2000

Tae Jin Kang and Sung Min Kim

An automatic garment pattern generation system has been developed for the three‐dimensional apparel CAD system. To substitute the garment fitting process, which requires lots of…

1252

Abstract

An automatic garment pattern generation system has been developed for the three‐dimensional apparel CAD system. To substitute the garment fitting process, which requires lots of trial and error in the traditional pattern generation methods, we developed a new direct pattern generation method using body‐garment shape matching process. In this method, we first generated a body model using three‐dimensionally measured anthropometric data and transformed it to have a convex shape similar to that of a commonly used dummy model in garment design process. Then a typical garment model has been defined by measuring the surface information of a dummy model using stereoscopy and adjusting its shape considering the geometrical constraints of the underlying body model to obtain the optimum fit garment patterns. Finally, we developed a pattern flattening algorithm that flattens the three‐dimensionally adjusted garment model into two‐dimensional patterns considering the anisotropic properties of the fabric to be used.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 September 2012

Sungmin Kim

The purpose of this paper is to explore the simulation of garments with various combinations of shape and size using a parametric pattern design method.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to explore the simulation of garments with various combinations of shape and size using a parametric pattern design method.

Design/methodology/approach

The approach of this study is to design garment patterns using a text‐based script language and assemble them on a deformable virtual body model to evaluate the appearance and fit of the resulting garment to facilitate the garment design process.

Findings

In this study, various garment patterns are designed parametrically by an expandable script language and simulated directly on a deformable body model.

Research limitations/implications

The size and shape of parametrically generated garment patterns are all different for each garment and therefore a full‐texture mapping technique cannot be applied.

Practical implications

This method may reduce the time required to evaluate the appearance and fit of bespoke garments by replacing the trial‐and‐error based traditional procedures.

Originality/value

The integration of a script‐based parametric pattern design method into the garment drape simulation system is one of the most useful applications for the practical garment design process.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 24 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 June 2010

In Hwan Sul

The purpose of this paper is to combine patterns from different garment sets and preview garment styles in 3D apparel design by giving sewing names to patterns and sewing edges.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to combine patterns from different garment sets and preview garment styles in 3D apparel design by giving sewing names to patterns and sewing edges.

Design/methodology/approach

A new rule for 3D garment sewing is made. Unlike conventional vertex number‐based method, patterns and their edges are given specific names. If two edges have a same edge name, they make a sewing line. Thus, patterns from different garments can be combined and draped with this method. Numbers of boundary mesh nodes were controlled using B‐Spline to combine sewing edges of different lengths.

Findings

It is found that by only assigning names to patterns and sewing edges, garment style can be previewed by substituting patterns.

Originality/value

Styles and details of garments can be previewed in 3D by mixing patterns of different garment sets like in 2D technical flat sketching. Even patterns with different edge lengths can be combined by controlling the pattern meshes using B‐Spline.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 22 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 May 2011

Simeon Gill

The purpose of this paper is to provide a theoretical model for considering ease numerically in the clothing pattern. Classifying the pattern as a geometric Cartesian coordinate…

2303

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to provide a theoretical model for considering ease numerically in the clothing pattern. Classifying the pattern as a geometric Cartesian coordinate system, this model proposes the need to quantify the partly coincident variables of ease, which will enable greater control over garment fit and function, using traditional or CAD/CAM methods.

Design/methodology/approach

The principles of pattern/garment dimensions are considered with support from analysis of literature and contributing factors to the variables of ease are categorised. These principles support a proposed theoretical model for considering pattern/garment dimensions, in the numeric format that they exist within the context of pattern construction.

Findings

Pattern construction occurs in a 2D Cartesian coordinate system, guided by body dimensions and ease. This can be modelled in the form of an algorithm relating to the placement of cardinal points defining the pattern outline. Recognition of the numerical nature of the pattern, suggests the need to quantify the coincident variables of ease, to achieve greater control over garment fit and function.

Research limitations/implications

Few sources exist enabling the recognition of ease requirements in the pattern/garment and when guidance on ease is presented, there is little rationale as to how it has been established, or what contributes to its definition.

Originality/value

The paper shows how current methods of pattern construction can be modelled more effectively, recognising the geometric nature on which they are based. Modelling these relationships highlights where quantification can be provided, by existing knowledge or future research.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 15 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 November 2015

Jun Zhang, Noriaki Innami, KyoungOk Kim and Masayuki Takatera

The purpose of this paper is to produce an upper garment model for three-dimensional (3D) pattern making. This model will take into account ease allowance and silhouette, and will…

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Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to produce an upper garment model for three-dimensional (3D) pattern making. This model will take into account ease allowance and silhouette, and will be used to propose a size-changing method.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors used two real garment bodices with a surface suitable for pattern development. The garments were fitted to a designated dummy body and scanned. Using the scanned data, the authors made those upper garment basic models suitable for 3D pattern making. Using one model, the authors produced two bodice patterns, one with the original seam lines and the other with seam lines that differed from the original ones, and then compared them with the original jacket bodice. To construct garment models that were different in size from the basic model, the authors calculated multiplication factors of cross-sectional dimensions (in the front, back and lateral directions) between the basic garment and the actual garment shape worn on a body for each basic model. Using the multiplication factors, the authors made two different size garment models from two different size dummies for each basic model. The authors used these models to make patterns and garments.

Findings

The reproduced jackets had similar shapes, silhouettes and ease allowances to the original jacket. Two garments of different sizes for each original jacket were made using the multiplication factors, and these garments also had similar silhouettes to the original jacket.

Research limitations/implications

The implications of the work could be the new size-changing method.

Originality/value

Using the modeling method, the authors were able to make complex new garment models that take into account ease allowance and silhouette. The ability to size these models up or down using multiplication factors could be a substitute for the grading method.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 February 2021

Chen Bao, Yongwei Miao, Bingfei Gu, Kaixuan Liu and Zhen Liu

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and interaction to design 3D garments and 2D patterns. The proposed scheme has the potential to satisfy the individual needs of fashion industry, such as precise fit evaluation of the garment, interactive style editing with ease allowance and constrained contour lines in fashion design.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors first construct a parametric pattern-making model for flat pattern design corresponding to the body dimensions. Then, the designing 2D patterns are stitched on a virtual 3D mannequin by performing a virtual try-on. If the customer is unsatisfied after the virtual try-on, the adjustable parameters (appearance parameters and fit parameters) can be adjusted using the 2D–3D linkage editing with hierarchical constrained contour lines, and the fit evaluation tool interactively provides the feedback.

Findings

The authors observed that the usability and efficiency of the existing garment pattern-making method simplifies the garment pattern-making process. The authors utilize an interactive garment parametric flat pattern-making model to generate an individualized garment flat pattern that effectively adjust and realize the local editing of the garment pattern-making. The 2D–3D linkage editing is then employed, which alters the size and shape of garment pattern for a precise human model fit of the 3D garment using hierarchical constrained contour lines. Various instances have validated the effectiveness of the proposed scheme, which can increase the reusability of the existing garment styles and improve the efficiency of fashion design.

Research limitations/implications

First, the authors do not consider the garment pattern-making design of sophisticated styles. Second, the authors do not directly consider complex garment shapes such as wrinkles, folds, multi-layer models and fabric physical properties.

Originality/value

The authors propose a pattern adjustment scheme that uses the 3D virtual try-on technology to avoid repetitions of reality-based fit tests and garment sample making in the designing process of clothing products. The proposed scheme provides interactive selections of garment patterns and sizes and renders modification tools for 3D garment designing and 2D garment pattern-making. The authors present the 2D–3D interactive linkage editing scheme for a custom-fit garment pattern based on the hierarchical constraint contour lines. The spatial relationship among the human body, pattern pieces and 3D garment model is adequately expressed, and the final design result of the garment pattern is obtained by constraint solving. Meanwhile, the tightness tension of different parts of the 3D garment is analyzed, and the fit and comfort of the garment are quantitatively evaluated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 June 2012

Sungmin Kim

The purpose of this paper is to facilitate the digital garment production process using a multi‐option garment data structure.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to facilitate the digital garment production process using a multi‐option garment data structure.

Design/methodology/approach

Numerous garments can be generated out of a single garment datum by combining various fashion features, size grades, fabric physical properties, and surface texture maps.

Findings

It is found that various digital garments which are required, for example, by online fashion businesses can be prepared in a relatively simple way.

Research limitations/implications

The size of each pattern on a garment can be changed by grading process and therefore a full‐texture mapping technique cannot be applied.

Practical implications

This method can greatly reduce the time required to prepare the digital garments, for either online or offline fashion businesses.

Originality/value

The generation of various digital garments by combining multiple fashion features and physical properties is one of the most important features needed for the practical application of drape simulation in the fashion business.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 24 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 March 2000

Tae J. Kang and Sung Min Kim

A fast response three dimensional garment drape shape prediction system has been developed. A human body model generator has been established for the garment draping on it. For…

Abstract

A fast response three dimensional garment drape shape prediction system has been developed. A human body model generator has been established for the garment draping on it. For the mass production of different size of garments for the various sized body models, the cross‐sectional value from the anthropometric data was used as the standard for the size accommodation to make a resizable human body model. To construct the cloth drape shape prediction system, the finite element analysis method has been utilized. The designed garment pieces were divided into fine quadrilateral elements using a specially coded mesh generating program, then some appropriate sewing conditions were assigned to transform two dimensional patterns into three dimensional shapes. The final drape shape of the garment was determined from the solutions of the contact condition with human body, deformations, and the weights of the elements constituting the garment pieces, as well as the surface texture of the cloth.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

1 – 10 of over 3000