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The main purpose is to construct the mapping relationship between garment flat and pattern. Particle swarm optimization–least-squares support vector machine (PSO-LSSVM), the data-driven model, is proposed for predicting the pattern design dimensions based on small sample sizes by digitizing the experience of the patternmakers.

For this purpose, the sleeve components were automatically localized and segmented from the garment flat by the Mask R-CNN. The sleeve flat measurements were extracted by the Douglas–Peucker algorithm. Then, the PSO algorithm was used to optimize the LSSVM parameters. PSO-LSSVM was trained by utilizing the experience of patternmakers.

The experimental results demonstrated that the PSO-LSSVM model can effectively improve the generation ability and prediction accuracy in pattern design dimensions, even with small sample sizes. The mean square error could reach 1.057 ± 0.06. The fluctuation range of absolute error was smaller than the others such as pure LSSVM, backpropagation and radial basis function prediction models.

By constructing the mapping relationship between sleeve flat and pattern, the problems of the garment flat objective recognition and pattern design dimensions accurate prediction were solved. Meanwhile, the proposed method overcomes the problem that the parameters are determined by PSO rather than empirically. This framework could be extended to other garment components.

The failure of structures and components made of SS304 steel because of corrosion in the presence of saline water environment is still an unsolved issue across the globe. Conventionally, coatings and inhibitors are used to mitigate corrosion. The purpose of this study is to propose a novel method to tackle corrosion by means of micro-patterning on the surface and to explore the relation between surface morphology, corrosion and wetting nature of micro-patterned SS304 Steel.

Groove-shaped micro-patterns were created on SS304 steel surface with varying ridge and channel widths. Wettability studies conducted on flat and micro-patterned steel surfaces using high speed camera. Corrosion tests carried out in saline water using an electrochemical test set-up to quantify the performance of micro-patterned surface over flat surface and scanning electron microscopic analysis to visualize the severity of corrosion on the surfaces of SS304 steel.

Wettability studies showed that the micro-patterned steel surfaces were hydrophobic. Corrosion rates of the micro-patterned steel surfaces were lower by more than an order of magnitude compared to that of the flat steel surface. Scanning electron microscopic analysis revealed that the micro-patterned steel surfaces had less surface damage compared to the flat surface.

The author shows that the remarkable corrosion resistance shown by the micro-patterned steel surfaces is attributed to their hydrophobicity, which reduced the contact between the surfaces and the corrosive liquid media. Results from the investigation indicate that micro-patterning of SS304 steel surfaces is an effective route to decrease corrosion.

A comprehensive apparel CAD system was developed to perform automatic garment pattern drafting and the prediction of the final drape shape of designed garment putting on the human body. Three dimensional apparel CAD system starts with a flat garment pattern drafting system. A computerized pattern design script language has been created based on the traditional patterner’s principles to develop an automatic draft system of performing basic garment pattern drafting as well as grading rule generation. A pattern modification system was also developed considering functions required in apparel CAD such as auxiliary pattern generation, seam line creation, and dart manipulation to generate engineering patterns which can be used in the three dimensional garment shape prediction system presented later in part II of this paper.

The designing and initial alignments of 2D garment patterns in 3D space are the key procedures in 3D apparel design. This paper presents a new methodology to prepare and edit initial pattern shape in 3D space by simulating virtual cloth scissoring.

In conventional apparel CAD tools, flat 2D patterns are drawn and sewn in 3D space. Thus, the final appearance of 3D garment cannot be easily predictable for non‐specialized personnel from the flat patterns. This paper adopts the real pattern designing method of “draping”, incorporating it into computer‐based designing so that the user can realistically cut, sew and add the cloth by only using a mouse. 2D and 3D meshes are edited simultaneously and thus a flattening process is not needed.

Several mesh‐based operations such as cutting, sewing, adding, and fixing are devised and have been successfully applied to virtual garment cutting.

Our new pattern drawing method has an advantage that designer can look and feel the garment appearance interactively during the design process. Virtual cutting is identical to the real pattern draping technique and is easy to adopt for designers.

With current computer hardware speed and through using the drape simulation technique, it was possible to drape and cut cloth in real‐time. In addition, both the 3D pattern and 2D flat pattern could be simultaneously acquired.

The authors investigate the effects of four basic bodice pattern shapes and developing methods on the appearances of ladies' fitted bodice design. The authors also clarify the preferred appearance among the four ladies' fitted bodice design as reported by Japanese university students and propose a pattern developing method of the preferred bodice design using the four basic bodices.

Targeting a ladies' fitted bodice design with designated dimensions, four ladies' fitted bodices were manufactured using four types of basic bodice pattern and their development methods: BUNKA from Japan, ESMOD from France, ARMSTRONG from the United States, and ALDRICH from the United Kingdom. The appearances of the four fitted bodices were observed and explained in terms of ease and darts. The authors also conducted a sensory test regarding the preferred shirt appearance adopting a semantical difference method, for 15 female Japanese university students in their twenties. The authors propose a pattern developing method to design the preferred fitted bodice shape using different basic bodices considering the amount and allocation of ease and size and allocation of darts to front and back of the bodice.

The appearances of the bodices were different even for the same fitted bodice design depending on the type of basic bodice pattern and its developing method. BUNKA had a slightly constricted silhouette at the waist and ESMOD had a straight silhouette and less constriction. ARMSTRONG had the most constricted silhouette and rounded hips and ALDRICH had a slightly constricted curve from the bust to the hips. The shape differences were strongly related to the amount of ease and the difference in waist darts between front and back of the bodice. The Japanese participants preferred fitted bodices that have a constricted silhouette from front and back views. From the side view, a straight line at the front and a constricted shape and emphasized hip at the back silhouette were preferred. By adjusting the allocations of ease and waist darts to front and back of the bodice, it was possible to design the preferred fitted bodice shape even with different basic pattern.

It was found that the basic bodice pattern and developing method affect the final clothing. It is necessary to adjust the allocation of ease and darts to front and back of the bodice to construct clothing using different patternmaking methods. It was shown that it is more important to consider the patternmaking method than to select a suitable basic bodice pattern. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of allocation and amount of ease and the allocation and size of waist darts in both the basic patternmaking method and developing method. This approach is also useful in making an article of clothing with a shape required in other countries.

The purpose of this paper is to study the behavior of a single ridge passing through elastohydrodynamic lubrication of point contacts problem for different ridge shapes and sizes, including flat-top, triangular and cosine wave pattern to get an optimal ridge profile.

The time-dependent Reynolds’ equation is solved using Newton–Raphson technique. Several shapes of surface feature are simulated and the film thickness and pressure distribution are obtained at every time step by simultaneous solution of the Reynolds’ equation and film thickness equation, including elastic deformation. Film thickness and pressure distribution are chosen to be the criteria in the comparisons.

The geometrical characteristics of the ridge play an important role in the formation of lubricant film thickness profile and the pressure distribution through the contact zone. To minimize wear, friction and fatigue life, an optimal ridge profile should have smooth shape with small ridge size. Obtained results are compared with other published numerical results and show a good agreement.

The study evaluates the performance of different surface features of a single ridge with different shapes and sizes passing through elastohydrodynamic of point contact problem in relation to film thickness and pressure profile.

The purpose of this paper is to produce an upper garment model for three-dimensional (3D) pattern making. This model will take into account ease allowance and silhouette, and will be used to propose a size-changing method.

The authors used two real garment bodices with a surface suitable for pattern development. The garments were fitted to a designated dummy body and scanned. Using the scanned data, the authors made those upper garment basic models suitable for 3D pattern making. Using one model, the authors produced two bodice patterns, one with the original seam lines and the other with seam lines that differed from the original ones, and then compared them with the original jacket bodice. To construct garment models that were different in size from the basic model, the authors calculated multiplication factors of cross-sectional dimensions (in the front, back and lateral directions) between the basic garment and the actual garment shape worn on a body for each basic model. Using the multiplication factors, the authors made two different size garment models from two different size dummies for each basic model. The authors used these models to make patterns and garments.

The reproduced jackets had similar shapes, silhouettes and ease allowances to the original jacket. Two garments of different sizes for each original jacket were made using the multiplication factors, and these garments also had similar silhouettes to the original jacket.

The implications of the work could be the new size-changing method.

Using the modeling method, the authors were able to make complex new garment models that take into account ease allowance and silhouette. The ability to size these models up or down using multiplication factors could be a substitute for the grading method.

The paper aims to provide an overview of the area of digital pattern developing for customized apparel.

The paper outlines several methods of digital pattern developing for customized apparel, and discusses the principles, characters and applications. Digital pattern developing process has two paths. One path develops apparel according to traditional 2D pattern‐making technology. There are three methods: parametric design, traditional grading technique, and pattern generating based on artificial intelligence (AI). Another path develops pattern through surface flattening directly from individual 3D apparel model.

For parametric method, it can improve greatly the efficiency of pattern design or pattern alteration. However, the development and application of parametric Computer‐Aided‐Design (CAD) systems in apparel industry are difficult, because apparel pattern has fewer laws in graphical structure. For grading technique, it is the most practical method because of its simple theory, with which pattern masters are familiar. But these methods require users with higher experience. Creating expert pattern system based on AI can reduce the experience requirements. Meanwhile, a great deal of experiments should be conducted for each garment with different style to create their knowledge databases. For 3D CAD technology, two methods of surface flattening have been outlined, namely geometry flattening and physical flattening. But many improvements should be done if the 3D CAD systems are applied in apparel mass customization.

The paper provides information of value to the future research on developing a practical made‐to‐measure apparel pattern system.

Apparel pattern making creates a set of pattern pieces of fabric which are sewn into the desired garment. The pattern pieces are developed through fashion analysis, pattern design and pattern drafting. Seeks to build an object‐oriented model of the apparel pattern‐making process through these subprocesses. Defines the model in terms of a requirements specification and subsequently uses it in the development of a computerized pattern‐making system. Uses object behaviour analysis, which is derived from object‐oriented technology, as the method for defining the model.

States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although the use of such technology is commonplace in many industries, the problems associated with the development of a suitable system for garment design have yet to be fully resolved. Envisages that such a system would provide the tools to develop a 3D simulation of a prototype garment which can be viewed from any angle prior to making a physical sample. This combined with the facility to develop the corresponding 2D pattern shapes and evaluate the fit of the virtual garment make the prospect of such a system extremely enticing. Considers the need for 3D working methods in garment design and the research issues involved in the development of a 3D computer aided design (CAD) system for garment design. The potential features of such a system are introduced in the context of a hypothetical system. Discusses the approach of a number of researchers in the field and considers future developments.