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Article
Publication date: 24 November 2020

Yuika Sakata, KyoungOk Kim and Masayuki Takatera

This study investigated changes in appearance due to variations in the amount of ease allowance at the bust, waist and hips with ready-made women's shirts in two different…

Abstract

Purpose

This study investigated changes in appearance due to variations in the amount of ease allowance at the bust, waist and hips with ready-made women's shirts in two different styles. The authors also examined the suitable range for ease allowance with those two styles using a sensory test for evaluating appearance.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors employed two women's shirts (samples I and II) in different styles (fit and straight). The authors modified the size of the bust, waist and hips with a changeable-size dress form using 1-cm intervals. The authors observed the shape changes. With the pictures at 2-cm intervals, the authors conducted a sensory test to evaluate appearance. 20 Japanese university students in their 20s made their assessments using seven items (wrinkles, fit, silhouette, beauty, fashionable impression, comfort and purchase intention) with a five-point scale. The proportion of subjects who scored 1 or more was 40% or greater when using ease allowance in the suitable range.

Findings

The appropriate ranges of ease allowance differed according to the style and evaluation items. Regarding appearance and purchase intention with sample I from the front, the suitable range of ease allowance was 1–7 cm for the bust, 2–6 cm for the hips and 13 cm for the waist. From the side, the range was 0–6 cm for the hips and 7 cm for the bust. With sample II from the front, the suitable range of ease allowance was about 4 cm for all parts. From the side, the range was 11 cm for the bust and 4 cm for the hips.

Originality/value

Using a dress form, the authors determined suitable ranges of ease allowance for two women's shirts in fit and straight styles with seven bust, six waist and six hip sizes. The authors found that the suitable range of ease allowance varied according to the style, direction and parts of the shirt. Our results can act as a guideline for designing and selecting ease allowance for women's shirts, taking into account comfort from appearance, purchase intention and beauty.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 February 2021

Chen Bao, Yongwei Miao, Bingfei Gu, Kaixuan Liu and Zhen Liu

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and interaction to design 3D garments and 2D patterns. The proposed scheme has the potential to satisfy the individual needs of fashion industry, such as precise fit evaluation of the garment, interactive style editing with ease allowance and constrained contour lines in fashion design.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors first construct a parametric pattern-making model for flat pattern design corresponding to the body dimensions. Then, the designing 2D patterns are stitched on a virtual 3D mannequin by performing a virtual try-on. If the customer is unsatisfied after the virtual try-on, the adjustable parameters (appearance parameters and fit parameters) can be adjusted using the 2D–3D linkage editing with hierarchical constrained contour lines, and the fit evaluation tool interactively provides the feedback.

Findings

The authors observed that the usability and efficiency of the existing garment pattern-making method simplifies the garment pattern-making process. The authors utilize an interactive garment parametric flat pattern-making model to generate an individualized garment flat pattern that effectively adjust and realize the local editing of the garment pattern-making. The 2D–3D linkage editing is then employed, which alters the size and shape of garment pattern for a precise human model fit of the 3D garment using hierarchical constrained contour lines. Various instances have validated the effectiveness of the proposed scheme, which can increase the reusability of the existing garment styles and improve the efficiency of fashion design.

Research limitations/implications

First, the authors do not consider the garment pattern-making design of sophisticated styles. Second, the authors do not directly consider complex garment shapes such as wrinkles, folds, multi-layer models and fabric physical properties.

Originality/value

The authors propose a pattern adjustment scheme that uses the 3D virtual try-on technology to avoid repetitions of reality-based fit tests and garment sample making in the designing process of clothing products. The proposed scheme provides interactive selections of garment patterns and sizes and renders modification tools for 3D garment designing and 2D garment pattern-making. The authors present the 2D–3D interactive linkage editing scheme for a custom-fit garment pattern based on the hierarchical constraint contour lines. The spatial relationship among the human body, pattern pieces and 3D garment model is adequately expressed, and the final design result of the garment pattern is obtained by constraint solving. Meanwhile, the tightness tension of different parts of the 3D garment is analyzed, and the fit and comfort of the garment are quantitatively evaluated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 March 2014

Huantian Cao, Rita Chang, Jo Kallal, Grace Manalo, Jennifer McCord, Jenna Shaw and Heather Starner

Excess consumption of apparel is driven by the apparel industry to offer more styles at lower prices in shorter time and the consumers’ desire to change fashion. The…

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Abstract

Purpose

Excess consumption of apparel is driven by the apparel industry to offer more styles at lower prices in shorter time and the consumers’ desire to change fashion. The purpose of this paper is to apply adaptable design in apparel as a sustainable design solution for excess consumption problem.

Design/methodology/approach

Guided by sustainable apparel design model C2CAD, two adaptable apparel prototypes for female college students were designed and developed. Focus group discussion and wear test were conducted with female college students to evaluate users’ acceptance, fit, comfort, and adaptability of the two prototypes.

Findings

Both prototypes were comfortable to wear by users with different sizes, indicating the users could wear the garment when she changed size. The adaptations and conversions were easily and enjoyably figured out by the users. The users would keep and use the adaptable apparel for a long time. The users would also buy fewer apparel if they were to own the adaptable apparel. Adaptable apparel would increase apparel utilization, eliminate the need to purchase unnecessary additional amount of clothing, and reduce excess consumption.

Originality/value

This research provided a pilot study on adaptable apparel design as an innovative approach to help solve excessive consumption problem. The adaptable garment prototypes would allow the fashion-forward female college student to easily change the function, fit, and style of the environmentally friendly garments.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, vol. 18 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 January 2020

Xuyun Zhu, Wenjing Wen, Yun Luo, Yonglong Zhang and Di Sun

The purpose of this paper is to develop a novel method for establishing the mathematical link between the restored Hogarth curve and the golden ratio, and to advance the…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to develop a novel method for establishing the mathematical link between the restored Hogarth curve and the golden ratio, and to advance the potential application of the Hogarth curves in standardization of the garment pattern design by using this method.

Design/methodology/approach

The Hogarth curve was fully restored by using the plant design system (PDS) software package and divided the restored curve into two fragments based on the intersection point between the curve and the straight line joining the curve endpoints. The ratios between two fragments of curves and straight lines were calculated and compared with the golden ratio, respectively, which was set as a normalized value. The potential application of the restored Hogarth curves in the normalization of the garment pattern design was therefore studied by using the standard mannequins.

Findings

The ratio in the most beautiful curve, i.e., the fourth Hogarth curve, was found to be infinitely approaching to the golden ratio. Furthermore, the incorporation of the Hogarth curves into the garment pattern design demonstrated that the fourth Hogarth curve was the most aesthetic line.

Originality/value

This work offered a novel method for bridging the gaps between arts and maths, i.e., the mathematical relation between the Hogarth curves and the golden ratio. Such a method will provide the protocol to promote the potential applications of the Hogarth curves in the garment pattern design and the human body decoration.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 14 September 2010

David Orzechowicz

This chapter draws on 17 months of ethnographic observations in the Parade department at an American theme park that I call Wonderland. The Parade department is a…

Abstract

This chapter draws on 17 months of ethnographic observations in the Parade department at an American theme park that I call Wonderland. The Parade department is a homonormative workplace, numerically and culturally dominated by gay men. I examine how this work culture challenges the dominance of heteronormative masculinity often embedded at work through an exploration of backstage interactions among performers. I also explore the gendered and racialized meanings of the camp aesthetic that performers embody. I argue that while Parade culture undermines workplace heteronormative masculinity, it also reproduces the epistemology of the closet through its reliance on the gay/straight binary.

Details

Gender and Sexuality in the Workplace
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-84855-371-2

Article
Publication date: 1 January 1999

Alison Beazley

A survey of 100 young women's body measurements was undertaken during 1992/93. The findings are the basis of Part 3, which aims to explain how size charts are developed…

Abstract

A survey of 100 young women's body measurements was undertaken during 1992/93. The findings are the basis of Part 3, which aims to explain how size charts are developed for garments; to evaluate the measuring equipment used and to compare the size chart body measurements with those proportionally derived by traditional formulae. A size chart is the artificial dividing of a range of measurements which are concise and consistent. There are different types of size charts. Some are of body measurement for specific proportion and shape. Others are for garments including ease allowances which vary according to the garment style and type of fabric. Size charts can be developed in three stages commencing with the raw survey data, which is then rounded to the nearest 1.0 cm or 0.5 cm and finally ease allowance is added for the finished garment. During the survey some measurements were repeated using different measuring equipment so that a comparison could be made to select the most suitable for pattern construction. The use of the anthropometer is limited as it can only take linear measurements. However, it is helpful when analysing body proportion, whereas the tape measures attached to the harness and a metal tape measure can record the contour surface of the body, which is more appropriate for clothing. The adjustable square and angle were a little difficult to position correctly but were useful to check the formulae used for pattern construction. A comparison is made between the survey body measurements and traditional formula to derive body measurements which are difficult to take. The dividing of the height by eight heads is useful for length proportions. The derived neck shape and survey measurements were comparable. Head measurements suitable for hoods were similar for all bust and neck sizes. Only the height showed any progression in size. This concludes the three articles which explain the taking of body measurements, methods of analysing the data and applying it to clothing pattern construction. It is hoped that this will aid those in industry and education who wish to undertake research and to develop new technology.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 3 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Abstract

Details

A Circular Argument
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-80071-385-7

Book part
Publication date: 26 March 2020

Llewella Chapman

On 2 September 2015, it was announced that Tom Ford would again be ‘dressing James Bond’, Daniel Craig, in Spectre (Mendes, 2015) after tailoring his suits for Quantum of

Abstract

On 2 September 2015, it was announced that Tom Ford would again be ‘dressing James Bond’, Daniel Craig, in Spectre (Mendes, 2015) after tailoring his suits for Quantum of Solace (Forster, 2008) and Skyfall (Mendes, 2012). Ford noted that ‘James Bond epitomises the Tom Ford man in his elegance, style and love of luxury. It is an honour to move forward with this iconic character’.

  With the press launch of ‘Bond 25’(and now titled No Time to Die) on 25 April 2019, it is reasonable to speculate that Ford will once again be employed as James Bond’s tailor of choice, given that it is likely to be Craig’s last outing as 007. Previous actors playing the role of James Bond have all had different tailors. Sean Connery was tailored by Anthony Sinclair and George Lazenby by Dimitro ‘Dimi’ Major. Roger Moore recommended his own personal tailors Cyril Castle, Angelo Vitucci and Douglas Hayward. For Timothy Dalton, Stefano Ricci provided the suits, and Pierce Brosnan was dressed by Brioni. Therefore, this chapter will analyse the role of tailoring within the James Bond films, and how this in turn contributes to the look and character of this film franchise more generally. It aims to understand how different tailors have contributed to the masculinity of Bond: an agent dressed to thrill as well as to kill.

Details

From Blofeld to Moneypenny: Gender in James Bond
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-83867-163-1

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 February 2022

Ayumi Isaji, KyoungOk Kim and Masayuki Takatera

The authors investigate the effects of four basic bodice pattern shapes and developing methods on the appearances of ladies' fitted bodice design. The authors also clarify…

Abstract

Purpose

The authors investigate the effects of four basic bodice pattern shapes and developing methods on the appearances of ladies' fitted bodice design. The authors also clarify the preferred appearance among the four ladies' fitted bodice design as reported by Japanese university students and propose a pattern developing method of the preferred bodice design using the four basic bodices.

Design/methodology/approach

Targeting a ladies' fitted bodice design with designated dimensions, four ladies' fitted bodices were manufactured using four types of basic bodice pattern and their development methods: BUNKA from Japan, ESMOD from France, ARMSTRONG from the United States, and ALDRICH from the United Kingdom. The appearances of the four fitted bodices were observed and explained in terms of ease and darts. The authors also conducted a sensory test regarding the preferred shirt appearance adopting a semantical difference method, for 15 female Japanese university students in their twenties. The authors propose a pattern developing method to design the preferred fitted bodice shape using different basic bodices considering the amount and allocation of ease and size and allocation of darts to front and back of the bodice.

Findings

The appearances of the bodices were different even for the same fitted bodice design depending on the type of basic bodice pattern and its developing method. BUNKA had a slightly constricted silhouette at the waist and ESMOD had a straight silhouette and less constriction. ARMSTRONG had the most constricted silhouette and rounded hips and ALDRICH had a slightly constricted curve from the bust to the hips. The shape differences were strongly related to the amount of ease and the difference in waist darts between front and back of the bodice. The Japanese participants preferred fitted bodices that have a constricted silhouette from front and back views. From the side view, a straight line at the front and a constricted shape and emphasized hip at the back silhouette were preferred. By adjusting the allocations of ease and waist darts to front and back of the bodice, it was possible to design the preferred fitted bodice shape even with different basic pattern.

Originality/value

It was found that the basic bodice pattern and developing method affect the final clothing. It is necessary to adjust the allocation of ease and darts to front and back of the bodice to construct clothing using different patternmaking methods. It was shown that it is more important to consider the patternmaking method than to select a suitable basic bodice pattern. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of allocation and amount of ease and the allocation and size of waist darts in both the basic patternmaking method and developing method. This approach is also useful in making an article of clothing with a shape required in other countries.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 November 2018

Pengpeng Cheng and Daoling Chen

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the fit and thermal and moisture comfort factors to provide some reference value for the functional design of underwear.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the fit and thermal and moisture comfort factors to provide some reference value for the functional design of underwear.

Design/methodology/approach

The body size data of 100 male youths are measured to analyze the body shape of the lower body. Based on the complete body size, the authors selected the matching underwear, and obtained the relevant data for the mathematical model of thermal and moisture using Grey correlation analysis method.

Findings

In allusion to the defect of fit comfort and thermal-moisture comfort of the crotch, this paper presented a mathematical model, and experimental results showed that breathable fabric and breathable volume are the key factors.

Originality/value

It was clarified that which is the key to the thermal and moisture comfort. At the same time, male lower body characteristics index is clear.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

1 – 10 of over 3000