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1 – 10 of 728Kavita Mathur, Abdel-Fattah M. Seyam, David Hinks and R. Alan Donaldson
Today, Jacquard woven fabric producers are able to digitally control each warp yarn individually, pre-program the variable pick density and speed for each filling yarn, and…
Abstract
Today, Jacquard woven fabric producers are able to digitally control each warp yarn individually, pre-program the variable pick density and speed for each filling yarn, and automatically change a pattern without stopping the weaving process. Jacquard CAD systems dramatically reduce the time to produce fabric from the artwork or target design The process of weave/color selection for each area of the pattern is, however, still highly dependent on the CAD system operator who works from a particular color gamut. Multiple weaving trials are required to get a sample that matches the original artwork since the process requires the designer‘s subjective evaluation. The lack of automatic selection of weaves/color matching prompts this research.
This paper addresses the development of a geometric model for predicting the color contribution of each warp and filling yarn on the fabric surface in terms of construction parameters. The combination of geometric modeling and existing color mixing equations enables the prediction of the final color of different areas of a Jacquard pattern. The model was verified experimentally and a close agreement was found between a color mixing equation and the experimental measurements.
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Sadaf Aftab Abbasi, Arzu Marmaralı and Gözde Ertekin
This paper investigates the thermal comfort properties of quilted (jersey cord) fabrics produced with different width of diamond pattern, different filling yarn linear density and…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper investigates the thermal comfort properties of quilted (jersey cord) fabrics produced with different width of diamond pattern, different filling yarn linear density and different types of material.
Design/methodology/approach
A total of 12 fabrics were knitted by varying the width of diamond pattern (1 and 3 cm), the filling yarn linear density (300 and 900 denier) and the type of materials (cotton, polyester and their combination). In this regard, air permeability, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity and relative water vapor permeability of these fabrics were measured and evaluated statistically.
Findings
The results showed that fabrics knitted using cotton yarn in both front and back surfaces exhibit higher thermal conductivity, thermal absorptivity and relative water vapor permeability characteristics; whereas samples knitted using polyester yarn in both surfaces have higher air permeability and thermal resistance. As the linear density of filling yarn increases, thickness and thermal resistance of the samples increase and air permeability, thermal conductivity, water vapor permeability characteristics decrease. When the effect of the width of diamond pattern compared, it is seen that an increase in the width of pattern lead to an increase in thickness and thermal resistance and a decrease in thermal conductivity, thermal absorptivity and water vapor permeability values.
Originality/value
Many researches were carried out on the thermal comfort properties of knitted fabrics, however there is a lack of research efforts regarding thermal comfort properties of quilted fabrics.
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Yunchu Yang, Hengyu Wang, Hangyu Yan, Yunfeng Ni and Jinyu Li
The heat transfer properties play significant roles in the thermal comfort of the clothing products. The purpose of this paper is to find the relationship between heat transfer…
Abstract
Purpose
The heat transfer properties play significant roles in the thermal comfort of the clothing products. The purpose of this paper is to find the relationship between heat transfer properties and fabrics' structure, yarn properties and predict the effective thermal conductivity of single layer woven fabrics by a parametric mathematical model.
Design/methodology/approach
First, the weave unit was divided into four types of element regions, including yarn overlap regions, yarn crossing regions, yarn floating regions and pore regions. Second, the number and area proportion of each region were calculated respectively. Some formulas were created to calculate the effective thermal conductivity of each element region based on serial model, parallel model or series–parallel mixing model. Finally, according to the number and area proportion of each region in weave unit, the formulas were established to calculate the fabric overall effective thermal conductivity in thickness direction based on the parallel models.
Findings
The influences of yarn spacing, yarn width, fabric thickness, the compressing coefficients of air layers and weave type on the effective thermal conductivity were further discussed respectively. In this model, the relationships between the effective thermal conductivity and each parameter are some polynomial fitting curves with different orders. Weave type affects the change of effective thermal conductivity mainly through the numbers of different elements and their area ratios.
Originality/value
In this model, the formulas were created respectively to calculate the effective thermal conductivity of each element region and whole weave unit. The serial–parallel mixing characteristics of yarn and surrounding air are considered, as well as the compression coefficients of air layers. The results of this study can be further applied to the optimal design of mixture fabrics with different warp and filling yarn densities or different yarn thermal properties.
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Yunchu Yang, Jiangrui Qian and Yang Chen
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the thermal transfer properties of electric heating fabric system which contains heating units or conductive yarns by numerical…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the thermal transfer properties of electric heating fabric system which contains heating units or conductive yarns by numerical simulation, in order to optimize and evaluate the thermal performance of heating clothing.
Design/methodology/approach
Two kinds of FEM models are created by ANSYS system: macro-scale models of the fabrics system with heating units and air layer; and meso-scale models of the plain-woven fabrics were established embedded with the stainless yarns. In the macro-scale model, the interior and surface temperature field distribution were simulated and analyzed based on different heating unit size, heating power, heating region, air layer thickness and ambient temperature. For meso-scale models, the effects of the conductive yarns temperature, covering fabrics and pore-filling material on the temperature field distribution were simulated and analyzed.
Findings
With the increasing of the air layer thickness or the effective conductivity, the heat transfer along the direction of fabric thickness decreases gradually. The heat transfer along the fabric plane can be increased by dispersing the heating region. With the increasing of the conductive yarns’ temperature or the covering fabrics’ conductivity, the heat transfer distance along the fabric warp direction can be increased. Filling the internal pores of the fabric with 10 wt% SiC/TPU hybrid materials can effectively increase the in-plane heat transfer and improve the temperature uniformity on the surface of heated fabrics.
Originality/value
The finite element method was used to establish the simulation models of the heating fabric systems. The influence of several parameters on the thermal performance was analyzed and discussed, as well as the internal and external temperature distribution in the macro and micro scales models.
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Ahmed Ramadan Abd El-Hamied EL-Tantawi
This study aims to show that the manner of fabric deformation during relaxation depends upon the twill angle line and its direction (twill S or Z). The quantity of the skewness is…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to show that the manner of fabric deformation during relaxation depends upon the twill angle line and its direction (twill S or Z). The quantity of the skewness is related to the float length and the twill angle in reverse, with the warp tension when changed from cotton to lycra filling yarns.
Design/methodology/approach
The experimental analytical method.
Findings
The most significant goals presented from this investigation are cost savings, time of production and metaphorically; new demands on denim fabric patterns presented.
Originality/value
Moving away from just chasing cheap, more innovative and progressive for manufacturing and end users search for denim, this paper served to shift the market share map for denim manufacturers, which is looks on nearly the most common problem facing the denim industry; skewness.
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The purpose of this research is to design 3D print and analyze mechanical as well as microstructural behavior of interlaced fibrous structures using Dremel 3D45 additive…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this research is to design 3D print and analyze mechanical as well as microstructural behavior of interlaced fibrous structures using Dremel 3D45 additive manufacturing (AM) machine.
Design/methodology/approach
A series of plain and twill weave fabrics are designed using computer-aided design software Solidworks and printed using fused deposition modeling machines to determine the best model that could be printable. The structures were designed in such a way that the fabricated yarns with pure (PLA) were not sticking to each other in the fabric structure. The specimens were printed in vertical orientation and then tensile and three-point bending (flexural) tests were conducted for twill weave fabrics.
Findings
The tests showed that the mechanical strength was higher in the warp direction than in the weft direction. This difference was because of printing of continuous filament-like yarns in the warp direction and staple-like yarns in the weft direction. This orthotropic property of the material was verified by analyzing its microscopic structures via optical microscope.
Research limitations/implications
Future work should include improvement of the structure and exploration of different polymers and their composites to increase the tensile, bending and other strengths to make the 3D-printed structures more flexible and stronger. Future research should also focus on the large-scale manufacturing of 3D printed fabrics.
Practical implications
This paper supports work on wearable 3D-printed fabrics. The 3D-printed fabric will also contribute to new applications and products such as liquid filters.
Originality/value
The research done in this work is new and original. This paper contributes to new knowledge by providing a better understanding of polymers and their 3D printing capabilities to form a complex fabric structure.
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Behnoosh Ghaani Farashahi, Elizabeth Easter and Kate Annett-Hitchcock
The purpose of this paper is to compare a set of product specifications to evaluate appearance and performance characteristics of denim jeans at three price categories, and…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to compare a set of product specifications to evaluate appearance and performance characteristics of denim jeans at three price categories, and identify any relationships between price and product quality.
Design/methodology/approach
This research is as a quasi-experimental laboratory study. The product specifications of jeans are identified. Next, the appearance and performance characteristics of jeans are examined initially and after one and five repeated laundering cycles. The data are analyzed within and between each price category to identify any possible relationship between price and product quality.
Findings
The price category of jeans does not necessarily reflect different dimensions of product quality. Although higher priced jeans had superior product specifications and visual appearance, they did not show superior performance with respect to all elements of fit, durability, and color performance when these three factors were measured through laboratory testing.
Research limitations/implications
The limitations of this study from a research perspective include a small sample size, gender-focused sample selection. and the focus on only three retail categories. These limitations impact the generalizability of the results but could serve as a basis for similar studies. The evaluated product quality attributes were limited to intrinsic/measurable characteristics. Future studies should consider the extrinsic attributes of quality, especially as they are related to consumer’s purchasing decision.
Practical implications
Retailers in moderate and budget price categories can benefit from educating consumers about the quality attributes of jeans that would ultimately influence their post-purchase experience and are not necessarily related to the product’s price category. Educators can use this information to assist in teaching students about the multiple dimensions of materials and assembly choices, and how this will impact their final products as they are learning the apparel product development process.
Originality/value
The focus of this study on the quantification of intrinsic product attributes is unique and provides measurable data for product evaluation by consumer researchers and industry. The results of this research identify the strengths and weaknesses in the appearance and performance characteristics of jeans in different price categories, and how those may affect consumers’ purchase intention.
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Salvinija Petrulyte, Deimante Vankeviciute and Donatas Petrulis
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the physical properties of smart aromatherapic ramie/cotton terry fabrics containing microcapsules (MC) with essential Eucalyptus oil…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the physical properties of smart aromatherapic ramie/cotton terry fabrics containing microcapsules (MC) with essential Eucalyptus oil.
Design/methodology/approach
Terry fabrics are manufactured by changing the weft density. The air permeability is determined for grey and microencapsulated textile. The factorial designs are made. For informative experiment the linear type of regression is analysed. Development of physical properties of microencapsulated terry fabrics is discussed.
Findings
The air permeability of aromatherapic terry fabrics is determined. All statistical analysis is performed. Appropriate conclusions about the influence of fabric’s structure and microencapsulating process on terry fabric quality are made.
Originality/value
To date there are no investigations concerning terry textiles with fragrance MC. This study developed analysis and empiric mathematical equations suitable for evaluating and designing terry fabrics with the air permeability required. Assessment of the influence of fabric’s weft density and binder concentration for the air permeability of terry textile is proposed.
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Pragnya Kanade and Bharat H. Patel
The main purpose of taking up this work was to see the influence of metallic nanoparticles on various fabric properties. This paper emphasizes on mechanical, aesthetic and…
Abstract
Purpose
The main purpose of taking up this work was to see the influence of metallic nanoparticles on various fabric properties. This paper emphasizes on mechanical, aesthetic and anti-bacterial properties of the polyester, cotton and polyester cotton-blended fabric samples.
Design/methodology/approach
Three fabrics, 100 per cent polyester, 100 per cent cotton and polyester cotton-blended (50:50), were procured from the market. They were subjected to mild washing treatment so that the fabrics could be impregnated with copper (Cu) nanoparticles following standard procedure. The characterization of Cu nano-loaded textiles has been done using various techniques such as scanning electron microscopy for surface morphology, X-ray fluorescence spectrometer for elemental analysis and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy for chemical composition. However in this paper, the focus is on various fabric properties and influence of this treatment on them. Antimicrobial activity was measured as per AATCC 100 quantitative method.
Findings
The structural properties showed changes but not major ones. The impregnation of Cu nanoparticles is nothing but a chemical treatment, and it is not uncommon to find reduction in the mechanical properties of the specimen. Here also, the mechanical properties were studied but did not reveal any significant change. The aesthetic properties for cotton fabrics showed an improvement. Improvement in the anti-bacterial activity was observed for all the fabric samples but the improvement in cotton fabric is worth mentioning. Thus, nano treatment imparts anti-bacterial property without hampering the mechanical properties of the parent textiles.
Research limitations/implications
It is usual to find changes in the various properties of the materials subjected to nano treatment or treatment of any sort. Though the fabric samples were subjected to similar treatment, the quantity of nanoparticles taken up by each of them was different. The reason behind this could be the difference in the crystallinity of the fabric samples. Polyester fabric showed the highest resistance, as it was least affected by the nano treatment given. Cotton fabrics composed of cotton fibers are amorphous in nature, hence showed better take-up and hence were more affected by the said treatment.
Practical implications
Cotton fabrics are the most favored fabric, especially in regions with hot climatic conditions. Even though these fabrics are very sought after, they have a major drawback related to the aesthetic appeal of the fabric. These fabrics have very poor resistance to the crease formation, as well as their ability to recover from the external deformation. But the study conducted on the fabric samples has shown favorable results for the cotton fabric. A significant improvement in their aesthetic and anti-bacterial activity was found. At present, textiles with nano finishing fall in niche market due to its higher cost. But finishing with in-house Cu nanoparticles may open up hygiene textiles for consumers at affordable rates.
Social implications
Cotton is still the most popular natural fiber in most of the tropical and sub-tropical regions. People located in these places have a natural urge to wear fabrics made from cotton fibers. Due to the hot weather, sweating is natural. However, this tends to keep the skin in humid state resulting in various skin problems, as cotton is also prone to bacterial attack. But this work has shown positive results, meaning to say that cotton fabrics show improved resistance to the bacterial activity. Hence, its suitability for hygiene applications may soon become a reality.
Originality/value
It is true that a lot of work is being reported on nano materials and their application to textiles for various reasons. Recently, many reports are available related to finishing of textiles using nanoparticles. However, most of the researchers are using silver nanoparticles for the same. In this work, use of in-house Cu nanoparticles has been done to treat fabric samples, which is more economical than silver nano. Also quantity required to meet desired property with Cu nanoparticles is less than the conventional treatment. This work is a sincere attempt to prepare hygienic common textiles at economical rates using continuous application technique which offers durable efficacy against human pathogenic bacterium.
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Patricia E. Horridge and Samina Khan
This study compared physical characteristics in four fabrics before and after a wear trial. The constructed fabrics were: 100 per cent pima cotton, 90–10 per cent pima…
Abstract
This study compared physical characteristics in four fabrics before and after a wear trial. The constructed fabrics were: 100 per cent pima cotton, 90–10 per cent pima cotton/wool, 80–20 per cent pima cotton/wool, and 70–30 per cent pima cotton/wool. The physical properties of breaking strength, stiffness, tear resistance, pilling resistance, and wrinkle recovery were compared between worn and unworn fabrics. Wear trial participants (n=20) were asked to assess fabric comfort and performance satisfaction during wear. Results of physical testing found significant differences among blend levels and before and after wearing and care treatment levels. Tear resistance, breaking strength, stiffness, and wrinkle recovery were affected by fibre content and care level. Contrary to the authors' hypothesis, consumer satisfaction was also affected by fibre content of the fabrics.
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