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– The aim of this paper was to explore the use of objective fabric parameters in 3D virtual garment simulation.
Abstract
Purpose
The aim of this paper was to explore the use of objective fabric parameters in 3D virtual garment simulation.
Design/methodology/approach
Two methods (fabric assurance by simple testing and Browzwear's fabric testing kit) of obtaining objective fabric measurements and the derived parameters for virtual garment simulation were studied. Three parameters (extension, shear and bend) were investigated to establish whether the selected virtual software derived comparable parameters from the objective fabric measurements.
Findings
It was found that the conversion from the objective fabric measurement data to the required parameters for virtual simulation varied significantly. Manual analysis of the objective measurements showed the two test methods to be comparable for extension and shear parameters; However, some adjustment to the test method was required. The third parameter to be investigated (bending rigidity) concluded that the test methods and results obtained from the two different apparatus were not comparable and recommended further experimentation using a different testing technique.
Research limitations/implications
Future research should be conducted on a larger variety of fabrics ensuring comparable loads are used in the testing of the extensibility parameters. An expansion of this preliminary study should give more conclusive evidence of the trends observed.
Originality/value
Objective measurement of extension, shear and bend properties was investigated in relation to the derived parameters for a selected virtual simulation package. An understanding of such parameters will aid the general industry in adapting 3D virtual garment simulation as part of the standard product development process, resulting in a significantly shorter product development cycle.
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Under the widely used testing methods for fabric bending behavior, only one result for one direction can be obtained by using one fabric which is low efficient. To obtain fabric…
Abstract
Purpose
Under the widely used testing methods for fabric bending behavior, only one result for one direction can be obtained by using one fabric which is low efficient. To obtain fabric bending anisotropy, it is necessary to conduct a great many testing experiments. The purpose of this paper is to investigate a novel, efficient and visual method that can measure fabric bending anisotropy.
Design/methodology/approach
Fabrics are first cut into special shapes with eight strips including four directions, 0°(warp direction), 90°(weft direction), 45 and 135°(true bias), then are put onto the self-designed instrument. After that a camera is used to take picture from the right above the prism. New parameters, projection area, projection length, projection length, falling height and falling index (S, L, H and I in short) are obtained. Furthermore, standard deviation of them (SDS, SDL, SDH and SDI in short) are extracted for the characterization of bending anisotropy.
Findings
Results show that the new method has good feasibility and S, L and I can be used to express fabric bending property well. Of all the four new parameters, SDL has the highest correlation with SD of bending length, SDS the second and SDH the third. That is, SDL can characterize bending anisotropy best. Taken convenience of data acquisition and correlation into consideration, bending length L is the best parameter. Average L and SDL in four directions can be combined to express the comprehensive bending behavior of fabrics.
Originality/value
The new method can measure and characterize both the fabric bending property and bending anisotropy. Besides its high efficiency, it can display fabric bending or bending anisotropy visually and directly.
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The purpose of this paper is to describe a new transient approach for testing water vapor diffusivity of fabrics and fibrous assemblies.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to describe a new transient approach for testing water vapor diffusivity of fabrics and fibrous assemblies.
Design/methodology/approach
An apparatus was designed and built in order to investigate the transient water vapor diffusivity of fabrics and fibrous assemblies, and the apparatus is validated by applying a theoretical model and comparing the result obtained by the desiccant cup method.
Findings
The transient water vapor diffusion test method permits rapid testing of small quantities of fabrics in a short amount of time. The method has an excellent correlation and agreement with the desiccant cup method. The variation of the new method is much smaller than the desiccant method. It also provided a way to study water vapor transfer through fibrous assemblies.
Originality/value
The paper introduces a new approach for testing water vapor diffusivity of fabrics and fibrous assemblies.
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A.M. Manich, J.P. Domingues and R.M. Sauri
Using six fabrics which are very different in structure and composition, comparisons have been made between British, French and American standards, and between IWS and Renault…
Abstract
Using six fabrics which are very different in structure and composition, comparisons have been made between British, French and American standards, and between IWS and Renault methods for seaming properties determination. According to measuring principles they could be classified into two groups. The calculated correlations within groups were acceptable, while correlations between groups were low. The Renault method is situated between the two groups, because one parameter given by this method showed a good correlation with the British standard, while the other had a good correlation with the French standard.
Mani Senthilkumar and L. Ashok Kumar
The purpose of this paper is to design and develop an instrument for non-destructive fabric grams per square metre (GSM) measurement. This study uses the capacitance principle to…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to design and develop an instrument for non-destructive fabric grams per square metre (GSM) measurement. This study uses the capacitance principle to obtain the fabric GSM. The relative permittivity of the sample fabrics changes the capacitance value. A relationship between capacitance and GSM that best fits the look-up table is obtained. Also, the developed system is applicable for all kind of fabrics both knitted and woven fabrics. The comparison study was carried out with existing test method.
Design/methodology/approach
The purpose of the study is to design and develop an instrument for non-destructive fabric GSM measurement.
Findings
The proposed non-destructive method of fabric GSM measurement using capacitance principle is designed, developed and tested. Also, the developed system is applicable for all kind of fabrics both knitted and woven fabrics. The comparison study was carried out with existing test method.
Research limitations/implications
The change in capacitance due to relative permittivity of the sample fabric is in pF range (10-12). The system can be further improved by using a capacitance sensor of sensitivity upto 1 fF (10-15). By doing so, the proposed system provides better results in terms of accuracy and resolution. The system developed can be further extended by making it online equipment which measures the fabric GSM instantaneously.
Originality/value
So far there is no non-destructive testing method available for fabric weight measurement. The newly designed and developed instrument is used to test the fabric both woven and knitted non-destructively.
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Xiuchen Wang, Zhe Liu, Long Wu, Yue Wang and Ying Su
The change rules of the shielding effectiveness (SE) of the sleeve has not been clarified, which leads to the lack of the basis for the design, manufacture and evaluation of the…
Abstract
Purpose
The change rules of the shielding effectiveness (SE) of the sleeve has not been clarified, which leads to the lack of the basis for the design, manufacture and evaluation of the electromagnetic shielding (EMS) clothing.
Design/methodology/approach
According to a simplified analysis model, a series of sleeve samples with different fabrics and styles are designed and manufactured. The SE of the sleeve is tested with the proposed special test method in a semi-anechoic chamber to analyze the influence of different factors on the SE of the sleeve.
Findings
The SE is greatly reduced about 60–90% after the fabric is manufactured into the sleeve. The larger the sleeve length is, the higher the peak value of the SE is. When the sleeve length is low, the SE value is easy to appear negative. As the cuff circumference increases, the SE of the sleeve will change with the frequency band. The influence of the cuff style on the SE of the sleeve mainly depends on the cuff width and style. The larger the cuff width is, the lower the overall SE of the sleeve is. The more wrinkles there are at the cuff, the better the SE of the sleeve is.
Originality/value
Our results provide a reference for the design, production and evaluation of the sleeve and the whole EMS clothing.
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R. Abghari, S. Shaikhzadeh Najar, M. Haghpanahi and M. Latifi
To investigate the relation of in‐plane fabric tensile properties with woven fabrics bagging behavior, a new test method was developed and a real time data acquisition and strain…
Abstract
To investigate the relation of in‐plane fabric tensile properties with woven fabrics bagging behavior, a new test method was developed and a real time data acquisition and strain gauge technique were used. The bagging procedure was carried out while the woven fabric tensile deformations along warp and weft directions were measured. The fabric bagging behavior was characterized by bagging resistance, bagging fatigue, residual bagging height and residual bagging hysteresis. The experimental results show that the bagging load, work, hysteresis, residual hysteresis and fatigue are highly linearly correlated with corresponding parameters in warp and weft directions. An empirical relationship obtained between residual bagging height and bagging fatigue and resistance (R2=0.83) suggests that the proposed new test method is able to evaluate bagging behavior of fabrics.
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Giovanni Anggasta, Iwan Halim Sahputra and Debora Anne Yang Aysia
The objective of this research is to systematically compare two methods of wicking test for evaluating the quality of the non-medical-mask fabric, i.e. its absorbency property at…
Abstract
Purpose
The objective of this research is to systematically compare two methods of wicking test for evaluating the quality of the non-medical-mask fabric, i.e. its absorbency property at various conditions, using a design of experiment approach. This research also evaluates the suitability of several fabrics to be used for non-medical masks.
Design/methodology/approach
Horizontal and vertical wicking tests were selected to evaluate the absorbency property of five fabrics commonly used for the non-medical mask. The tests were performed at three temperatures and using two types of liquid. The design of experiment approach was employed to determine the relationship between the path length of liquid movement in fabric and type of test method, temperature and type of liquid.
Findings
Both vertical and horizontal wicking tests show the same order of fabrics according to their absorbency. The order is cotton twill, local cotton, Japanese cotton, Oxford and Scuba, where the first in the order has the lowest absorbency and the last has the highest absorbency. Based on the analysis of variance (ANOVA), the range of temperature and types of liquid employed in this research do not affect the path length of the liquid movement in the fabric.
Originality/value
This research proposes horizontal and vertical wicking tests as a practical tool to evaluate absorbency property of fabric for the non-medical mask. This research also presents a design of experiment approach to evaluate the effect of the test method, temperature and type of liquid on the path length of the liquid movement in the fabric.
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Jingying Xu, Zimin Jin, Jing Jin, Lei Lei and Jianwei Tao
People have always been invaded by mosquitoes, and the development of new anti-mosquito fabrics has attracted much attention. The purpose of this paper is to study the effect of…
Abstract
Purpose
People have always been invaded by mosquitoes, and the development of new anti-mosquito fabrics has attracted much attention. The purpose of this paper is to study the effect of knitting process on the performance of anti-mosquito seamless fabrics and provide a basis for obtaining anti-mosquito seamless knitted fabrics with excellent comprehensive performance.
Design/methodology/approach
This paper uses bamboo–polyester mosquito repellent yarn containing wormwood extract as the face of seamless knitted fabric. The test factors include ordinary material in the face yarn, ground yarn material, seamless knitted structure and arrangement ratio of ordinary yarn and anti-mosquito yarn in face yarn. According to the quasi-level additional orthogonal test, 12 knitting plans are determined, and the mosquito repellent test and durability test are performed on the fabric.
Findings
The experimental results show that the optimal fabric for anti-mosquito performance is 12#, and the average repellent rate after washing 15 times is 58.57%. The corresponding process is that the face yarn is fully anti-mosquito yarn, the fabric is a single-sided mesh structure and the ground yarn is made of 4.4tex moisture-absorbing nylon/2.2tex spandex wrapped yarn.
Research limitations/implications
In this paper, there is still a lack of diversity in the selection of yarn materials and fabrics. In the follow-up research, the authors will use more fabrics and yarn materials for combination and experimentation and simulate and predict the mosquito resistance rate of knitted fabrics with different materials and structures.
Practical implications
The development of anti-mosquito seamless knitted fabrics with good comprehensive performance and the use of environmentally friendly wormwood repellents not only conform to the current people's healthy and environmentally friendly life philosophy, but also promote the development of the functional seamless knitted fabric market.
Social implications
In addition, seamless knitted fabrics have a huge market prospect, and many of their fabrics are used for sports underwear and outdoor wear. Therefore, the research and development of functional knitted fabrics will attract consumers to buy. While improving the wearing comfort, it can increase profits for the company.
Originality/value
The mosquito-proof functional seamless knitted fabric developed in this research has a high mosquito-proof rate after 15 times and can be used as underwear fabric or outdoor sports fabric.
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Keywords
Meng Deng, Miao Tian, Yunyi Wang and Min Wang
The purpose of this paper is to determine the effect of flash fire exposure on the mechanical properties of single-layer thermal protective clothing.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to determine the effect of flash fire exposure on the mechanical properties of single-layer thermal protective clothing.
Design/methodology/approach
The full-scale flame manikin tests were performed to simulate flash fire exposure. Two typical fire-resistant fabrics were investigated. The manikin was divided into seven body parts and the specimens meeting the requirements of tensile and tear strength standards were sampled. Fabric thickness, mass per unit area, tensile strength and tear strength were measured and analyzed.
Findings
The results revealed the significant influence of heat flux on both of tensile and tear strength. However, the regression analysis indicated the low R2 of the liner models. When the tensile and tear strength retention were reorganized based on the body parts, both of the multiple linear regression models for tensile and tear strength showed higher R2 than the one-variable linear regressions. Furthermore, the R2 of the multiple linear regression model for tear strength retention was remarkably higher than that of the tensile strength.
Practical implications
The findings suggested that greater attention should be paid to the local part of human body and more factors such as the air gap should be considered in the future thermal aging of firefighters’ clothing studies.
Originality/value
The outcomes provided useful information to evaluate the mechanical properties of thermal protective clothing and predict its service life.
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