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Article
Publication date: 1 August 2015

E.A.S.K. Fernando and T.S.S. Jayawardana

The tension variations across the width of the weaver's beam cause uneven tension in the fabric formation zone. As a result of the tension variation, the woven fabric tends to…

Abstract

The tension variations across the width of the weaver's beam cause uneven tension in the fabric formation zone. As a result of the tension variation, the woven fabric tends to have fabric defects, such as non-uniform fabric density and differential dye take–up at various places on the fabric. As the warp ends are continuously subjected to varying tensions, warp breakage frequently occurs. As a result, the quality of the fabric produced suffers and there is reduced loom efficiency. However, uniformity in the fabric density is crucial, especially for technical and smart textiles. In this paper, the authors have attempted to model the varyingtensions across different segments of a warp sheet under a set of assumptions and derived a linear model. Furthermore, a prototype of an automatic tension control device is instrumentedwith two different positions which are located one meter apart and allows the tension variations across the warp-sheet to be practically observed. The measured average tension shows that variations in the internal tension on different segments of the warp-sheet can be minimized or even completely eliminated over time. With the implementation of a related experiment, the authors have shown the effectiveness of this automatic tension controller and its strong implications for the industry.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 19 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 August 2010

Gulcan Ozkan and Recep Eren

The purpose of this paper is to investigate warp and weft crimp distribution over the fabric width and how it is influenced by warp tension distribution over the warp width.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate warp and weft crimp distribution over the fabric width and how it is influenced by warp tension distribution over the warp width.

Design/methodology/approach

An experimental design in this research includes air jet loom, tension sensor, inductive sensor and personal computer.

Findings

It is found that warp crimp in the fabric on the loom is higher in the edge zones than the middle of the fabric and warp crimp in the middle is higher than warp crimp in edge zones of the grey fabric. Weft crimp in the edge zones is higher than in the middle of the grey fabric. The reason behind warp tension and warp and weft crimp variations over fabric width is that weft yarn slips towards inside fabric at selvedges and gets relaxed during beat up.

Originality/value

It is proved that reducing weft yarn slip and therefore weft yarn relaxation during beat up will reduce warp tension and warp and weft crimp variations and improve the uniformity of fabric properties over the fabric width.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 22 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 June 2012

Fatemeh Mousazadegan, Siamak Saharkhiz and Masoud Latifi

The purpose of this paper is to model tension seam pucker by finite‐element method.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to model tension seam pucker by finite‐element method.

Design/methodology/approach

A linear three dimensional finite‐element analysis in ABAQUS 6.8 is used to model pucker formation under sewing thread tension. Fabric is modeled as a continuous shell under a constant stitch length and sewing thread tensions is the applied force. Simulation's results are compared with the experimental pucker profiles, which are derived by a triangulate laser, in the term of a surface roughness index.

Findings

A consistent correlation between simulation and experimental results is observed which reveals the ability of the model to predict the seam pucker formation of fabrics.

Originality/value

This study modeled tension seam pucker based on fabric's mechanical properties and exerted forces by finite‐element method. According to this study, it is possible to predict fabric deformation after tension pucker occurrence.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 24 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 May 2020

Reyhaneh Kamali, Yasaman Mesbah and Fatemeh Mousazadegan

The aim of the present study is to consider the influence of the tensile behavior of fabric and sewing thread on the seam appearance.

Abstract

Purpose

The aim of the present study is to consider the influence of the tensile behavior of fabric and sewing thread on the seam appearance.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, the formation of seam puckering on two elastic and normal woven fabrics was explored. In order to prepare samples, various sewing threads were applied. Test specimens were sewn under five different thread tension levels. Then the appearance of samples was evaluated subjectively to determine their seam puckering grade before and after the laundering process.

Findings

The obtained outcomes of this study present that although sewing thread tension increment decreases the seam pucker ranking in the similar sewing condition, elastic fabrics have a greater seam pucker grade compared to the normal fabric due to the fabric extension and contraction during sewing and after sewing process, respectively. In addition, the elastic strain of the sewing thread is the key factor that determined sewing thread's tendency to make seam puckering. Moreover, the laundry process due to the relaxation of the sewing thread decreases the seam pucker grade.

Originality/value

The consistency of the tensile property of fabric and sewing thread is a crucial parameter in improving the seam appearance and obtaining a smooth seam.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 October 1994

Frency Sau‐fun Ng Yip

The pressure on body scars resulting from pressure garments gradually decreases with time, probably as a consequence of stress relaxation in the fabric material. In order to…

422

Abstract

The pressure on body scars resulting from pressure garments gradually decreases with time, probably as a consequence of stress relaxation in the fabric material. In order to understand the basic mechanisms contributing to this phenomenon, an understanding of the stress relaxation behaviour of relevant textile structures is vitally important. Makes comparisons of the stress relaxation and shrinkage properties on six selected fabric samples which are all currently used by the hospitals in the UK and/or in Hong Kong. The design of the stress relaxation tests was based on the consideration of the fabric from a performance‐in‐use standpoint. The results of the tests showed differences between the fabrics collected in the UK and Hong Kong. It was also found that the stress relaxation in the wale direction was considerably lower (resulting in better performance) than in the course direction. It may be noted that the shrinkage of the fabrics was closely related to the degree of elasticity loss during washing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 6 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 January 1989

D.E. Riemer

The basic parameters of screen printing are discussed, and an analytical model of the screen printing process is introduced. The ink roll in front of the squeegee is treated as a…

1318

Abstract

The basic parameters of screen printing are discussed, and an analytical model of the screen printing process is introduced. The ink roll in front of the squeegee is treated as a pump generating, close to the squeegee edge, high hydrostatic pressure which injects ink into the screen meshes. The shearing of the ink, the mechanics of screen snap‐off and the ink transfer taking place behind the squeegee are also analysed.

Details

Microelectronics International, vol. 6 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1356-5362

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1997

S.V. Lomov, B.M. Primachenko and N.N. Truevtzev

Presents general properties and examples of weaves for two‐component multilayered woven fabrics. Such fabrics have a combination of properties which it is difficult to achieve in…

Abstract

Presents general properties and examples of weaves for two‐component multilayered woven fabrics. Such fabrics have a combination of properties which it is difficult to achieve in traditional fabrics (bulk combined with good tenacity, high cover level with porosity), can be used in liningless garments and can cope with ergonomical restrictions when using fibres with special protective properties. Describes a CAD system which can be used as an aid for a technologist to choose yarns for warp and weft, fabric weave and picks/ends count to meet demands specified by a particular fabric usage. It employs a new method of coding of multilayered fabric structure; mathematical methods used are based on the mechanical model of yarns interaction in a fabric. This describes the spatial disposition of yarns which allows production of any desired images of fabric geometry, i.e. surface smoothness or shape of pores. Discusses the complex nature of porosity of multilayered fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 9 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 February 2004

Lisa Macintyre, Margot Baird and Phil Weedall

Pressure garments have been used prophylactically and to treat hypertrophic scars, resulting from serious burns, since the early 1970s. They are custom‐made from elastic fabrics

Abstract

Pressure garments have been used prophylactically and to treat hypertrophic scars, resulting from serious burns, since the early 1970s. They are custom‐made from elastic fabrics by commercial producers and occupational therapists. However, no clear scientifically established method has ever been published for their manufacture from powernet fabrics. The earlier work identified the most commonly used fabrics and construction methods for the production of pressure garments by occupational therapists in UK burn units. These methods have now been evaluated by measuring the pressures delivered to both cylinder models and to human limbs using I‐scan® pressure sensors. The effect of cylinder/limb circumference and the effects of the fabric and reduction factor used in pressure garment construction on pressures exerted have now been established. These measurements confirm the limitations of current pressure garment construction methods used in UK hospitals. These results were also used to evaluate the Laplace law for the prediction of interface pressures.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 16 no. 1/2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 August 2018

Milda Juciene, Virginijus Vytautas Urbelis, Žaneta Juchneviciene, Virginija Saceviciene and Vaida Dobilaite

The purpose of this paper is to determine the influence made by complex finishing of denim fabrics, i.e. laser treatment and industrial washing, on the change in tension

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to determine the influence made by complex finishing of denim fabrics, i.e. laser treatment and industrial washing, on the change in tension properties of fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

Test specimens were treated by a laser JG-10050. Lasers main technological parameters: maximum laser beam power is 65 W, laser types are hermetic and detached CO2, laser tube wavelength is 10.62 µm. The test specimens processed by different laser energy density have been exposed to industrial washing and their tensile characteristics have been investigated.

Findings

The results of the research have demonstrated that complex finishing reduces the breaking force; however, material extensibility remains almost unchanged. Mechanical behaviour and composition characteristics of fabric are determined both by laser motion direction in respect of warp or weft and laser energy density.

Originality/value

The carried-out analysis of scientific literature has shown that the effect of laser on the fabric surface is relevant both in scientific and practical terms: the scientific literature contains studies on absorptive properties of laser treated materials; however, the behaviour of materials after complex finishing has not been widely investigated thus far.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 March 2018

Brett Ellis, Erin Kirkpatrick, Sonal Kothari Phan, Stacy Imler and Haskell Beckham

Stretch fabrics are employed to create compression in garments for medical, sports, and fitness applications. Although potential correlations between wearing compression garments…

Abstract

Purpose

Stretch fabrics are employed to create compression in garments for medical, sports, and fitness applications. Although potential correlations between wearing compression garments and physiological or performance metrics have been studied, such correlations require knowledge of the actual compression caused by garments. The purpose of this paper is to demonstrate, compare, and contrast different methods for measuring compression delivered by an exemplar compression garment.

Design/methodology/approach

The exemplar compression garment is a plain jersey knit maternity band. The compression delivered by this garment was determined via three different methods – Tekscan pressure mapping system, Hohenstein Measurement System (HOSY), and a fabric-based analytical model employing uniaxial fabric tensile data.

Findings

HOSY and the fabric-based model, assuming a circular cross section for the garment, provided comparable results for compression versus garment height. However, these methods did not capture the varying compression delivered at different transverse locations when the subject was noncircular in cross section. Assuming an elliptical cross section, the fabric-based model predicted results that were comparable to those measured by the Tekscan system: for example, compressions were approximately 130-160 percent greater at the hip, and approximately 60-100 percent lower at the posterior, than HOSY revealed. Further, the Tekscan system allows the effect of movement on compression to be captured.

Originality/value

This paper compares and contrasts three compression measurement methods and demonstrates the importance of angular position and height dependencies. Further, the fabric-based model is presented as a tool to assist design of compression garments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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