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Article
Publication date: 9 August 2011

Yasemin Bulut and Vildan Sülar

The purpose of this paper is to examine the effects of coating process parameters (base fabric, coating material, coating technique and production parameters) on…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to examine the effects of coating process parameters (base fabric, coating material, coating technique and production parameters) on mechanical properties of coated fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, 24 coated fabrics were produced under controlled production conditions by using two cotton base fabrics and two coating materials as polyurethane (PU), PU/silicone in order to study how coating affects some of the base fabric's mechanical properties such as breaking strength, breaking elongation, tear strength, bursting strength, bending rigidity and abrasion resistance. The measured data were evaluated with variance analysis to determine the effects of the coating parameters at 95 per cent confidence level.

Findings

Breaking strength shows increments for almost all fabrics, whereas breaking elongation values decreased by coating application. Coating has a very clear influence on tear strength of coated fabrics due to the penetration of coating material into the fabric structure. Changes in bursting strength are not similar for two base fabrics with systematically changed production parameters. Coating improves all measured parameters of bending rigidity. Coating application enhances abrasion resistance though some broken fibers are observed on the fabric surface in scanning electron microscopy investigation.

Originality/value

In the past few years, the researches on this area focused on investigating the effects of coating materials and layers on tensile properties. This study comprehensively examines the effects of several coating parameters on mechanical properties such as breaking strength, breaking elongation, tear strength, bursting strength, bending rigidity and abrasion resistance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 23 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 7 August 2017

Hui Shi, Lingxi Zhang and Jianping Wang

The purpose of this paper is to propose a rational and complete design scheme of seam type of outdoor clothing, so as to improve the seam efficiency and appearance of…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to propose a rational and complete design scheme of seam type of outdoor clothing, so as to improve the seam efficiency and appearance of outdoor clothing, as well as to provide an optimal seam base for the subsequent pressure adhesive process.

Design/methodology/approach

Four types of common outdoor fabrics and four seam types were selected. Seam strength and thickness were measured. Seam efficiency and seam thickness strain were calculated to evaluate seam quality. Multiple linear regression analysis was adopted to analyze the influence of seam type essential factors on seam strength.

Findings

Among the component factors of seam type, based on two stitches, seam strength was significantly affected by stitch distance, followed by fabric layer on the seam side. The increase of stitch and the interaction among fabrics can effectively improve the seam efficiency. The methods are as follows: the increase of stitches, stitch distance shortening, the increase of fabric layers, etc. The change of seam type had no significant influence on seam thickness strain. A seam-type design scheme of outdoor clothing with good mechanical and appearance properties was designed by choosing the seam types FX1, FX2 and FX4.

Originality/value

This paper designed a practical scheme of seam-type design of outdoor clothing, which has been applied in the industrial production process. It is important for guiding the improvement of seam quality and the production efficiency of outdoor clothing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 2 October 2009

Weigang Cui, Xin Wang, Wenbin Li and Weilin Xu

The purpose of this paper is to present a dynamic analysis on the thermal and electrical properties of fabrics under wet conditions.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to present a dynamic analysis on the thermal and electrical properties of fabrics under wet conditions.

Design/methodology/approach

A purpose‐built apparatus is applied to test the thermal and electrical properties of textiles in moisture absorption and liberation process. Relation between temperature and resistance of a cotton/polyester double‐layer fabric is also analysed.

Findings

The surface temperature of textiles shows three different stages in the process. The electrical resistance is linearly related to the reciprocal of the moisture regain of fabrics. In the moisture absorption and liberation process, surface temperature of cotton layer is higher than that of polyester layer. And the electrical resistance of cotton layer decreases more quickly than that of polyester layer. The electrical resistance changes earlier than surface temperature in the moisture‐liberation process.

Practical implications

The paper is helpful in not only the designing of sportswear, but also the devising of moisture‐testing apparatus.

Originality/value

A dynamic testing method is applied to characterize the thermal and electrical properties of textiles.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 21 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 30 January 2007

Ahmet Çay, Savvas Vassiliadis, Maria Rangoussi and Işık Tarakçıoğlu

The target of the current work is the creation of a model for the prediction of the air permeability of the woven fabrics and the water content of the fabrics after the…

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Abstract

Purpose

The target of the current work is the creation of a model for the prediction of the air permeability of the woven fabrics and the water content of the fabrics after the vacuum drying.

Design/methodology/approach

There have been produced 30 different woven fabrics under certain weft and warp densities. The values of the air permeability and water content after the vacuum drying have been measured using standard laboratory techniques. The structural parameters of the fabrics and the measured values have been correlated using techniques like multiple linear regression and Artificial Neural Networks (ANN). The ANN and especially the generalized regression ANN permit the prediction of the air permeability of the fabrics and consequently of the water content after vacuum drying. The performance of the related models has been evaluated by comparing the predicted values with the respective experimental ones.

Findings

The predicted values from the nonlinear models approach satisfactorily the experimental results. Although air permeability of the textile fabrics is a complex phenomenon, the nonlinear modeling becomes a useful tool for its prediction based on the structural data of the woven fabrics.

Originality/value

The air permeability and water content modeling support the prediction of the related physical properties of the fabric based on the design parameters only. The vacuum drying performance estimation supports the optimization of the industrial drying procedure.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 19 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 3 May 2010

Georgios T. Zoumponos and Nikos A. Aspragathos

Some areas of the apparel industry, such as folding and sewing, are still labor intensive. The purpose of this paper is to present a new fuzzy visual servoing strategy for…

Abstract

Purpose

Some areas of the apparel industry, such as folding and sewing, are still labor intensive. The purpose of this paper is to present a new fuzzy visual servoing strategy for the folding of fabric strips by robotic manipulators.

Design/methodology/approach

Three stages of the folding task are distinguished experimentally, the initial laying, the true folding, and the final laying. An indirect visual servoing fuzzy system, employing two cameras, is developed to guide the robot along each of the stages.

Findings

The proposed scheme manages to successfully fold some of the tested materials. The experimental results are promising and well within the limitations posed by both the employed equipment and the nature of the handled materials.

Research limitations/implications

This study is limited to rectangular strips of fabrics and does not consider the speed of the process.

Practical implications

The resulting system provides a stepping stone for the introduction of automation to currently labor‐intensive areas of the apparel industry.

Originality/value

The separate folding stages reduce the complexity of the overall system and the introduced visually extracted features allow a closer monitoring of the process.

Details

Industrial Robot: An International Journal, vol. 37 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0143-991X

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Article
Publication date: 1 March 2011

Simona Jevšnik, Zoran Stjepanovič, Lea Heikinheimo and Karl Gotlih

Enzyme treatment technologies are frequently applied in textile processing for the modification of fabric handle appearance and other surface characteristics in regard to…

Abstract

Purpose

Enzyme treatment technologies are frequently applied in textile processing for the modification of fabric handle appearance and other surface characteristics in regard to cotton and cotton blended fabrics. The purpose of this paper is to understand the impact of enzyme treatments on fabric preparation, dyeing, and finishing processes of woven fabrics. In particular, certain mechanical and surface properties of 100 percent cotton interlock knitted fabrics after treatment with a cellulase enzyme.

Design/methodology/approach

Interlock knitted fabrics were used for this research. These cotton fabrics were treated with experimental Trichoderma reesei cellulases containing different cellulase profiles and treatment was carried out under laboratory conditions. The effects of cellulase treatment on weft knitted fabric regarding mechanical and surface properties were evaluated using the KES‐FB Kawabata evaluation system. The influence of enzyme treatments, friction, and geometrical roughness on the face and reverse side of interlock knitted fabrics were discussed in comparison with untreated interlock knitted fabric.

Findings

After each of the enzyme treatments, the interlock knitted fabrics lost part of their weight and, therefore, they became thinner. Furthermore, the extension properties become higher in both directions with regard to the untreated knitted fabric for all used enzymes and carried out treatments.

Originality/value

The paper usefully analyzes changes in the extension and surface properties of enzyme‐treated interlock knitted fabrics by investigating the influence of whole or enriched endoglucanases celullases of Trihoderma reesei under different treatment conditions.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 23 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 7 July 2020

Jialu Liang, Honglian Cong, Zhe Gao, Aijun Zhang and Zhijia Dong

The weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric has the characteristics of complicated design principle and hard technical design. The purpose of this paper is to realize the…

Abstract

Purpose

The weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric has the characteristics of complicated design principle and hard technical design. The purpose of this paper is to realize the computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric, and provide a certain reference for the development of this type of fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

The weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is divided into weft-knitted two-side similar pattern jacquard fabric and weft-knitted two-side independent pattern jacquard fabric. In order to achieve the purpose of this study, firstly, the structural characteristic of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is analyzed. Then, the design principle of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is studied. Next, the technical model of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is established. Finally, the CAD flow chart of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is proposed to realize the rapid product development.

Findings

Based on the above method, through the development example of weft two-side similar pattern jacquard fabric and weft two-side independent pattern jacquard fabric, the computer-aided design of the weft two-side jacquard fabric is verified.

Research limitations/implications

Because of limited research studies, three-dimensional computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric loop structure will be studied in the further research, and the technical design speed needs to be improved to meet the needs of large patterns and positioning patterns.

Practical implications

The computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric will offer a certain reference for product development, technical principles, performance research and computer simulation for the in-depth study of the fabric.

Social implications

The computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric will simplify the fabric design process and improve the efficiency of new fabric development, and provide the industries a time-saving and cost-saving approach for new fabrics development.

Originality/value

The author analyzes the structural characteristic of the fabric by the physical fabric, summarizes design principle of the fabric through production process, uses mathematical methods to establish a three-dimensional technical model of the fabric, and proposes the CAD flow chart of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric, which has good theoretical significance and practice of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 23 July 2020

Henadeera Arachchige Ayomi Enoka Perera and Wilathgamuwage Don Gamini Lanarolle

Thermoplastic polymer fabrics are normally heat set to make them dimensionally stable. These fabrics in garment panel form may again be exposed to heat during the processes

Abstract

Purpose

Thermoplastic polymer fabrics are normally heat set to make them dimensionally stable. These fabrics in garment panel form may again be exposed to heat during the processes such as bonding, sublimation printing and cause to change their dimensions. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the response of polyester yarns in knitted fabrics to heat setting and post-heat treatments.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, the thermal shrinkage behaviour of heat set polyester knitted fabrics when subjected to post-heat treatment processes are analyzed using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and analysis of fabric shrinkage. DSC is a thermo-analytical technique that measures the difference in the amount of heat needed to increase the temperature of the sample and the reference. A heat flux versus temperature curve is one of the results of a DSC experiment. The polymer structure and morphology of polyester heat-treated and post-heat–treated fabrics were determined by examining the DSC thermograms.

Findings

Heat setting and post-heat setting causes the effective temperature of polyester to change. Effective temperature occurred around 160°C for fabrics heat set at low temperatures and increases as the heat setting temperature increases. Post-heat treatments cause to elevate the effective temperature. Shrinkage of fabrics below the effective temperature is not statistically significant while the shrinkage at higher temperatures is significant. Effective temperature is the main determinant of thermal shrinkage behaviour of polyester.

Originality/value

The study reveals the significance of the effective temperature of polyester on heat treatments and post-heat treatments. The study revealed that heat-setting temperature is a primary determinant of the thermal stability of polyester fabric that are subjected to heat treatments.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 24 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

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Article
Publication date: 22 June 2010

Ka‐Leung Moon and Eric W.T. Ngai

The purpose of this paper is to examine the problems encountered by clothing merchandisers in managing fabric sample resources, and analyses their expectations of and…

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1880

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to examine the problems encountered by clothing merchandisers in managing fabric sample resources, and analyses their expectations of and requirements for a desirable management solution. It then aims to consider the architectural design of an intelligent fabric sample management system prototype, and the development of a construction and implementation plan for a fashion enterprise to install the system.

Design/methodology/approach

A three‐stage methodological approach is adopted. The first stage is a preliminary study using in‐depth interviews with potential system users; the second involves the architectural design of a five‐component system prototype; and the third develops a multi‐phase construction and implementation plan using a case study.

Findings

Four categories of problems in the management of fabric sample resources are identified, the system architecture is designed, and a construction and implementation plan is proposed. Managerial and theoretical implications are also discussed.

Practical implications

The design process of the research and development (R&D) framework enables fashion enterprises to obtain a deeper understanding of their operations in managing fabric samples and to make wiser decisions in resource allocation. By taking the specific needs of system users into consideration, system solution developers are able to design tailor‐made software packages that are intelligent, user‐friendly and user‐oriented.

Originality/value

Through a logical and systematic process of designing the R&D framework, the paper identifies some “technological rules” which links up the practice of solving an industrial problem with the formulation of substantive theories. This adds to the application of design science research.

Details

International Journal of Operations & Production Management, vol. 30 no. 7
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0144-3577

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Article
Publication date: 26 July 2013

Pegah Ayatollahi, Ali Asghar Alamdar‐Yazdi and Mohammad Javad Sarraf‐Shirazi

Mercerization is one of the finishing treatments that often are used to improve the dye uptake properties and increase cotton fabrics' luster. Since comfort is a necessity…

Abstract

Purpose

Mercerization is one of the finishing treatments that often are used to improve the dye uptake properties and increase cotton fabrics' luster. Since comfort is a necessity of clothing and customers desire it more than ever, the finishing treatments that improve some properties of the fabric should not reduce clothing comfort. The aim of this paper was to investigate the effect of cold mercerization on the comfort properties of cotton fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

A total of 15 woven fabric samples in different structures were randomly chosen. The samples were divided into two groups: the finished fabrics (i.e. those which were run through singing, desizing, and bleaching processes) and the mercerized fabrics (i.e. samples which underwent the singing, desizing, bleaching and mercerizing processes). The mechanical and thermo‐physiological comfort properties of these two groups were evaluated and results were compared.

Findings

The results showed that bending rigidity, shearing rigidity, air permeability, water vapour transmission and thermal resistance increased by cold mercerization. Moreover, frictional restraint, extensibility and wicking decreased. In other words, mercerization can improve some comfort properties of cotton fabrics and weaken the others.

Originality/value

The current literatures don't consider the effect of mercerization on the clothing comfort. The present work intends to evaluate the effect of cold mercerization on the mechanical (tactile) and thermo‐physiological comfort properties of cotton fabrics which are used as summer clothing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 25 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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