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Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than one direction with double curvature. For many years, researchers studied fabric drape in order to evaluate the aesthetic performance of finished garments. However, the behaviour of fabric drape may not be same as the behaviour of garment drape stand on the same object by visually observation. Such difference would affect the prediction of garment drape based on fabric drape. At present, the study of the difference between the behaviour of fabric drape and garment drape is very limited. This study aims to examine the difference of the behaviour of fabric drape and garment drape through drape coefficient analysis and drape profile analysis. The effects of fabric mechanical properties on fabric drape and garment drape are also investigated experimentally. The outcomes of this study can improve apparel design and fabric end-use applications, and it also contributes to improve the prediction of garment drape for the apparel CAD system.

Undesirable garment drape often occurs because of the manufacturer’s desire to save fabric by rotating patterns to position them more closely in the marker, and thus cutting the garment off‐grain. This study was designed to subjectively and objectively measure the effect of grain alignment on fabric and garment drape. Data from an apparel industry survey were utilized to establish tilt values for quantitative analysis of drape and shear. Twelve tilt combinations were examined. No significant differences were found between drape values of control samples and those with tilt variations. Generally, shear stiffness and hysteresis values increased as tilt angles increased across all fabrics. Asymmetry of shear curves also increased. Twenty‐one apparel design students subjectively evaluated fabrics draped on a pedestal and skirts constructed in each tilt variation. Fabric drape amount evaluations were more highly correlated with drape values than were drape preference evaluations. Advanced design students were more sensitive to small differences in garment drape than were beginning students.

This paper discusses the concept of virtual measurement in textiles and describes the development of a virtual 3D fabric drape measurement system. In this system, a physical based model is used to predict the draping performance, static and dynamic drape of a given fabric sample. Fabric mechanical properties are used for simulating the virtual 3D shape of the fabric samples, which produce a time‐variable deformation of the virtual fabric drape. The 3D fabric drape can be observed under any view angle. An algorithm is developed, applied and integrated into the system for carrying out virtual fabric drape measurements in order to evaluate the drapeability of a given fabric. Important fabric aesthetic attributes such as number of fabric folds, fold variation and depth of fold are presented and implemented together with the drape co‐efficient.

Drape of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. When two‐dimensional fabrics are converted to three‐dimensional garment forms, a number of operations are required which affect drape behaviour of the fabric while present in garment form. In the present study, the effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics is investigated.Design/methodology/approach – The effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics is investigated. Comparisons were also made between different stitches (chain stitch and lock stitch), different seams for lock stitch and different types of interlinings for their effect on drape behaviour of fabrics. In addition to drape coefficient and number of folds, a new drape parameter – average amplitude to average radius (A/r) ratio – was also defined and calculated for drape image geometry.Findings – Drape coefficient has a good to strong correlation with A/r ratio and number of folds for most of the shell, sewn and interlining fused fabrics except for a few cases. A/r defines image in a more descriptive manner than drape coefficient. Drape coefficient changes with the types of seams and stitches used, as well as with the interlining used.Originality/value – This paper provides information on the effects of sewing (seams and stitch types) and fused interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics.

Undesirable effect of asymmetric drape often occurs when cutting patterns of flared skirt on cross. Out of this reason garment seams twist toward the front or back or folds form different shapes on each side of the garment and this lowers garment aesthetic appearance. The new measuring procedure for asymmetric skirt drape near the side seam, based on bottom traces geometry, was developed in this paper. The experiment with four‐gored skirts of six lightweight fabrics was made. It was found that asymmetric drape depends on combination of grain lines directions of front and back panels of a skirt. There were made general conclusions relating skirt asymmetric drape with various fabric characteristics, such as bending rigidity, extensibility, shear rigidity, fabric weight and drape coefficient in this article. According to developed measuring procedure a final objective evaluation of skirt asymmetric drape rate will be done further.

The drape attributes of fabrics, number of folds, depth of folds and evenness of folds were measured together with the drape coefficient. The relationship between these measurements and the subjective evaluation of the fabric drape was modelled for each end‐use on a neural network using back propagation, which can correctly predict the grades of 90 per cent of the samples. The relationship between the drape attributes and fabric bending, shear and weight was also modelled using neural networks. It was found that using the natural logarithm of the material property divided first by the weight of the fabric produced the most predictive model. Together, these models provide a powerful predictive tool to determine both the drape attributes and the drape grade from the mechanical properties of a fabric. The accuracy of the prediction of this system was found to be 83 per cent overall. Combining this with a novel feedback system, the drape grade or drape attributes of a fabric can be modified to fit the customer requirements and then the changes to the material properties required to achieve them can be determined.

Presents a study of the relationships between fabric drapeability and seam allowance, seam position and seam directions in terms of drape coefficient, bending length and draped profile. Concludes that by the results obtained from the sewn specimens, the draped profile of a fabric without a seam can be predicted and proved by extended experimental work. Suggests that the knowledge gained from present research on fabric drape will be useful in the determination of the drape profile on garment in practical use. Moreover, it has significant value in paving the way for establishing clothing CAD systems, and sheds light on fundamental mechanisms operating in fabric drape behaviour.

The purpose of this study is to explore the effect of stitch type and stitch direction on the dynamic drape behavior of the woven fabric.

In this paper, the effectiveness of stitch type and stitch directions on dynamic drape behaviors were investigated. Fabric parts were sewn together with two types of the stitch (lockstitch and overlock stitch) on three different stitch directions (warp, weft and bias (45°)). The static drape coefficients (SDC) of unsewn and sewn fabrics were measured according to the image process method. Dynamic drape coefficients (DDC) of fabrics were also measured using the same method at six different (25, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150 rpms) rotation speeds. Additionally, bending length and bending rigidity were measured using the Cantilever test method.

Experimental results showed that stitch type and stitch directions are effective on the dynamic drape behaviors of the fabric. Overlock stitch resulted in greater DDC than the lock stitch. For both of the stitch type, DDC for the stitch on the warp direction are greater than the stitch on the weft and bias direction for all speeds. In addition, bending length, hence the bending rigidity, are greater for overlock stitch type and always weft direction resulted in greater than the warp and bias direction.

Fabric drape is vital for garment appearance and is gaining popularity with the advancement of virtual technology, enabling virtual visualization of garments. While previous studies have predominantly examined either the static or dynamic drape behavior of individual fabric panels, or solely focused on the static drape behavior of sewn fabrics, this study acknowledges the significance of incorporating the influence of stitch type and direction on dynamic drape behaviors. Considering that fabrics are sewn together to create garments and that DDC provides a more accurate representation of real-time fabric behavior compared to SDC, this research makes a valuable contribution to the existing literature by investigating the impact of stitch type and direction specifically on DDC.

The purpose of this paper is to compare real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images created by a commercial software. To achieve an in-depth comparison, actual and virtual drape shape properties were considered under three categories: drape area, number of nodes and shape of folds. The results of this research are expected to be useful to improve the reality and accuracy of fabric and garment.

Five different fabrics were selected for this study. Fabrics’ mechanical properties were tested by fabric assurance for simple testing method, while drape properties were measured by a Cusick drape meter. A commercial garment simulation was used to generate virtual fabric drapes. Real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images were analyzed by an image analysis software and results were used to calculate drape properties. Regression analysis was performed to compare real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape properties.

Differences between real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape were stated clearly. Simulation software was found to be insufficient to reflect drape area. However, simulations were quite successful corresponding to the number of nodes. Only one simulation had +2 nodes than its actual counterpart. This study showed that area and node shape representations of simulation software should be improved while node numbers are sufficiently represented.

There are alternative 3D garment simulation software available to the fashion business. All these companies are working on to improve their simulation reality and accuracy. Some of them are also offering various equipment to measure the fabric properties. In this study, Optitex 3D Suite was selected as the simulation software due to several reasons as explained in this paper. However, other simulation programs might also be employed to perform virtual fabric drapes. Furthermore, in this study, the drape images of five woven fabrics were compared. The fabric selection was done according to a pre-test and consequently similar fabrics were determined to be the subject of the study. However, the more the number of the fabrics, the better the comparison and eventually the better the assessment of simulation success. Therefore, it is prospected to test more fabrics with versatile fabric properties for further studies.

Drape shape was observed from three perspectives: drape area, node numbers, and node shapes. Dealing the problem from these perspectives provided an in-depth comparison of real and virtual drapes. In this study, standard deviation of peak angles was used to explain node distribution that is new to the literature to the authors’ knowledge.

The purpose of this paper is to analyse dynamic drape behaviour of eight different types of woollen fabrics each treated by three different finishing processes.

A new apparatus was used to evaluate the dynamic drape formation process of woollen fabrics during the rotation of the samples at different speed grades of 0 (static drape), 30, 60, 90, 120, 150 and 180 rev/min for each sample. The computerised image analysis method was used to measure the drape coefficients (DCs).

As a result of experiments, it was found that shearing, calendaring, pressing processes affected the drapability and drape behaviour negatively, but belt pressing treatment and decatising process improved the drapability and the drape behaviour for all fabrics. Furthermore, there is a reverse relationship between fabric weight and drape behaviour. As the fabric weight increases, DC value increases due to the increase of fabric tightness.

To date, although many researchers have studied the static draping behaviour, the studies regarding the dynamic drape behaviour of the fabrics are quite limited to an extent. Besides, none of these studies regarding the drape behaviour have investigated the effects of different finishing processes on the drape behaviour of wool fabrics.