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In the paper the theoretical fundamentals of numerical evaluation of the significant fabric construction parameters (fabric setting, working‐in and fabric weight) are represented, which are the base for the prediction of theoretical fabric parameter values for a particular fabric application area. For fabric samples also the measured values and the comparison of selected construction parameters were obtained. The results confirm a good agreement in fabric setting and fabric weight values but a minor agreement in working‐in values of selected fabric samples. Our research work refers to the fabrics for under‐linen and fabrics for bed linen.

To investigate the performance of linings in clothing.

A total of 24 lining fabrics were produced in different constructions. 150 denier 350 twist/cm filament polyester warp yarn was used for all of the fabrics. Two different weft yarns (textured, filament) were used to produce lining fabrics in three different densities.

In the garment sector, lining performance is highly important for the manufacture of proper quality garments. The main problem of linings during usage is seam slippage for some constructions.

Fabric constructions were chosen as warp rips, weft rips, ripstop (rips both in warp and weft direction) and plain weave. Seam slippage, bending behaviour, crease recovery angle and comfort properties of the linings were measured and the results evaluated.

The paper contributes to understanding the performance of linings.

The purpose of this paper is to examine the problems encountered by clothing merchandisers in managing fabric sample resources, and analyses their expectations of and requirements for a desirable management solution. It then aims to consider the architectural design of an intelligent fabric sample management system prototype, and the development of a construction and implementation plan for a fashion enterprise to install the system.

A three‐stage methodological approach is adopted. The first stage is a preliminary study using in‐depth interviews with potential system users; the second involves the architectural design of a five‐component system prototype; and the third develops a multi‐phase construction and implementation plan using a case study.

Four categories of problems in the management of fabric sample resources are identified, the system architecture is designed, and a construction and implementation plan is proposed. Managerial and theoretical implications are also discussed.

The design process of the research and development (R&D) framework enables fashion enterprises to obtain a deeper understanding of their operations in managing fabric samples and to make wiser decisions in resource allocation. By taking the specific needs of system users into consideration, system solution developers are able to design tailor‐made software packages that are intelligent, user‐friendly and user‐oriented.

Through a logical and systematic process of designing the R&D framework, the paper identifies some “technological rules” which links up the practice of solving an industrial problem with the formulation of substantive theories. This adds to the application of design science research.

The dependence of seam slippage values on fabric construction parameters makes this property an interesting case for study.

In this study, made on a significant wool and blended fabrics sample, the seam slippage was measured, either in warp direction (weft yarns slip), or in weft direction (warp yarns slip), using a specially equipped load‐elongation tester. Testing was done following the TM 117 Woolmark Company test method.

For most fabrics, the conventional variables that impact seam slippage most seriously are opacity, polyamide content, finish type and cover factor.

Since this research does not deal with the variable of yarn crimp in fabrics, it is the cover factor that plays the central role, as the property determining seam slippage. The yarns with lower cover factor (less crimped) are in less danger of slipping between the perpendicular yarns (more crimped) and vice versa.

Based on the equations given, and changing the most relevant variables concerning the explanation of the fabric seam slippage property, the fabric properties can be optimised for specific end‐uses.

Optimisation of seam slippage in fabric design.

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam.

This section is not applicable for a review paper.

Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems.

It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.

The purpose of this paper is to facilitate the production of cotton spandex woven fabric with some user-friendly properties like wearer comfort, super stretch and elasticity. The findings could contribute to ease spandex production and to optimize its property of elasticity. Stretch or a super stretch property is generally desirable, as it can increase the comfort level of those who wear it. In this experiment, the difficulties which were identified while manufacturing cotton spandex woven fabric resolved after identification.

In this experiment, three types of cotton spandex woven fabrics, with different composition and constructions, were used to find out their elastic properties. Temperature ranging from 160°C to 200°C with the machine speed of 20 to 26 MPM (meter per minute) was applied with an adjusted industrial setting with the facilities of a stenter machine to optimize the properties of cotton spandex woven fabric.

The findings establish that the temperature treatment closely compacted the elastic portions with cotton fibers, giving stability to the spandex yarn, which as a result, influenced cotton spandex woven fabric’s elastic properties, namely, stretch, growth and recovery. The consequences of temperature on cotton spandex yarns were assessed using a microscope, and the results were subsequently analyzed.

Because of the poor facilities in testing laboratory, only few tests with microscopic evaluation were conducted to assess the elastic performances of cotton spandex woven fabric.

It is a practice-based research, and the findings could be beneficial to personnel in the textile industry, who are responsible for the manufacturing of cotton spandex woven fabric.

This research could enhance the wearer’s satisfaction, with some comfort elastic properties, which can have a positive influence over spandex clothing industries.

This research establishes that heat setting had a progressive influence on the production of cotton spandex woven fabric and for the optimization of its elastic performances. This research opens a possible way for scholars to further study in this field.

The mechanical and physical properties of fusible interlinings and fabrics depend on their constructional parameters, but fused panel properties depend on all of them. A new approach is presented for analysing the dependence of the constructional parameters of fabrics on the properties of fused panels. This study was carried out on the basis of a knowledge base for predicting the formability of fused panels made from wool fabrics suitable for upper clothes. This knowledge base was constructed using program package RETIS for machine learning from examples. This knowledge was presented in the form of regression trees. Using regression trees it is possible to predict the properties of a fused panel as well as to analyse the influence of parameters on the properties of a fused panel. Furthermore the results of analysis gained by regression trees were compared and confirmed using experimental measurements.

Examines the tenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Looks at the eighth published year of the ITCRR and the research, from far and near, involved in this. Muses on the fact that, though all the usual processes are to the fore, the downside part of the industry is garment making which is the least developed side. Posits that the manufacture of clothing needs to become more technologically advanced as does retailing. Closes by emphasising support for the community in all its efforts.

This review deals with the pros and cons of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on human beings and the role of textile clothing and the chemicals used for textiles to protect from their harmful effects.

UV radiation (UVR) which has further divided into UVA, UVB, and UVC. Almost 100% of UVC and major portion of UVB are bounced back to stratosphere by ozone layer while UVA enters the earth atmosphere. Excessive exposure of solar or artificial UVR exhibit potential risks to human health. UVR is a major carcinogen and excessive exposure of solar radiation in sunlight can cause cancer in the lip, skin squamous cell, basal cell and cutaneous melanoma, particularly in people with the fair skin.

This article aims to provide a comprehensive overview of the harmful effects of UVR on human skin, factors affecting UV irradiance and factors affecting UV protection offered by textile clothing.

Effect of fiber properties, yarn properties, fabric construction, fabric treatments and laundering has been reviewed along with the identification of gaps in the reported research. A comparison of inorganic and organic UV absorbers has also been given along with different testing and evaluation methods for UV protective clothing.