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The continuing development of the textile and clothing manufacturing industries depends in no small measure on the successful implementation of reliable objective methods for the specification, prediction and control of fabric quality and performance attributes. In the last decade, we have seen several notable examples of fabric design and development, and production and quality control in textile processing and clothing manufacture in terms of fabric objective measurement technology. The quality and performance characteristics of fabrics are related to their low stress mechanical, surface and dimensional properties. The experimental errors involved in the measurement of these properties are known to be much smaller than the errors involved in subjective assessment of fabric quality attributes, especially those made by individual judges. We may define the concept of fabric objective measurement as a necessary and sufficient set of instrumentally measurable parameters which are required to specify the fabric quality, tailorability and clothing performance. In this way, fabric objective measurement technology provides a “fingerprint” of the fabric quality, tailorability and performance implying that any two fabrics will generally differ at least to some extent in their objectively measurable characteristics. Fabric objective measurement technology therefore provides the key for scientific and engineering principles to be used for fabric specification and design as well as process control. The most important consequence of the introduction of fabric objective measurement technology will be the promotion of technological communication between various sectors of the textile and clothing industry, research and development workers and all other sectors of industry (e.g. fibre producers, retailing, merchandising, machinery manufacturers) concerned with fibres, textiles and clothing.

The application of objective measurement of the mechanical properties of fabrics in the apparel industry began around 1975 in the Hirakata area, which is one of the centres of men's suit production in Japan. At that time the KESF system had been developed and thereafter spread rapidly. The measurement of mechanical data under low‐load level by the KESF provided useful information for the apparel engineers who needed some means of fabric measurement by which the tailoring process might be controlled. The fabric dimensional stability testing using steam press was also standardised at that time (HESC 103A method). At present, the KESF data and the stability data are essential for apparel engineers and are used widely in the Japanese apparel industry. In addition to the use of objective measurements in each factory, a centre for objective fabric inspection has been recently initiated in the Hirakata area, for the inspection and control of fabric by the objective system for tailoring process control. In addition, a co‐operative work between the apparel engineers and the university has been carried out to develop a new equation for predicting the good appearance of a suit on the basis of fabric mechanical data. Automatic tailoring such as automatic overfeed action on the basis of fabric mechanical property is also carried out under the co‐operation of the university, the apparel industry, and a sewing machine manufacturer (Juki) in Hirakata. The progress of these projects is presented.

The aim of this paper was to explore the use of objective fabric parameters in 3D virtual garment simulation.

Two methods (fabric assurance by simple testing and Browzwear's fabric testing kit) of obtaining objective fabric measurements and the derived parameters for virtual garment simulation were studied. Three parameters (extension, shear and bend) were investigated to establish whether the selected virtual software derived comparable parameters from the objective fabric measurements.

It was found that the conversion from the objective fabric measurement data to the required parameters for virtual simulation varied significantly. Manual analysis of the objective measurements showed the two test methods to be comparable for extension and shear parameters; However, some adjustment to the test method was required. The third parameter to be investigated (bending rigidity) concluded that the test methods and results obtained from the two different apparatus were not comparable and recommended further experimentation using a different testing technique.

Future research should be conducted on a larger variety of fabrics ensuring comparable loads are used in the testing of the extensibility parameters. An expansion of this preliminary study should give more conclusive evidence of the trends observed.

Objective measurement of extension, shear and bend properties was investigated in relation to the derived parameters for a selected virtual simulation package. An understanding of such parameters will aid the general industry in adapting 3D virtual garment simulation as part of the standard product development process, resulting in a significantly shorter product development cycle.

Textiles as clothing material must fit the human body and senses. This fitting is an important performance of the textiles besides the utility performance of textiles such as fabric strength. For many years, the performance concerning this fitness has been evaluated subjectively by hand judgement. The fabric property judged in such a way is called fabric handle. Instead of the subjective method, the objective evaluation system of fabric handle has been developed. The system is introduced firstly. In this objective method, the handle is evaluated based on the fabric mechanical and surface properties measured by the KESF instrument. The mechanical parameters of fabric measured by the instrument are useful not only for the fabric handle evaluation but also for textile and apparel engineering through the direct use of the parameters. The applications of the objective measurement of fabric handle and properties to textile and apparel engineering are introduced.

Examines the tenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Looks at the eighth published year of the ITCRR and the research, from far and near, involved in this. Muses on the fact that, though all the usual processes are to the fore, the downside part of the industry is garment making which is the least developed side. Posits that the manufacture of clothing needs to become more technologically advanced as does retailing. Closes by emphasising support for the community in all its efforts.

This paper traces the evolution of objective measurement of textile hand and comfort from Pierce through modern methodology and approaches. Special emphasis is given to discuss the contribution of the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) towards advancing the state of objective measurement. Laboratory case studies are used to show how data generated by the KES and other instruments can be integrated into a comprehensive approach that attempts to explain human comfort response to garment wear in terms of fabric mechanical, surface and heat and moisture transfer properties.

Current measurement methods for fabric comfort attributes generally suffer from either complicated testing processes and intricate measuring equipment or partial evaluation objectives and thus are difficult for effectively evaluating multidimensional human perceptions towards the comprehensive comfort of fabrics. The purpose of this paper is to develop a facile test device, namely fabric comfort tester, to achieve a comprehensive evaluation of human sensations in terms of sensorial, thermal and acoustic comfort in clothing.

The prototype of the designed device was introduced, which enables a simultaneous test for multiple physical and mechanical properties of fabrics based on a force sensor and a set of infrared sensors via constructing multi-deformation states of the measured fabrics. Eleven measurement indices extracted from the measurement curves are defined and interpreted based on correlation analysis. A series of regression models are developed by relating the measurement indices with subjective evaluation results and validated by a set of independent samples.

Human perceptions of sensorial, thermal and acoustic comfort in clothing can be predicted by the measured physical indices and the designed test device with the developed regression models provides an alternative method to characterize the fabric comfort attributes effectively.

The work develops a novel device for objective evaluation of fabric comfort properties by a simultaneous test, integrating the mechanical measurement with thermal test and thereby filling the gap between the existing evaluation methods and practical requirements for the digitalization of fabric comfort in present textile and garment trade.

To examine a simple testing method of measuring the force to pull a fabric through a series of parallel pins to determine the fabric softness property.

A testing system was setup for fabric pulling force measurements and the testing parameters were experimentally determined. The specific pulling forces were compared with the fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST) parameters and subjective softness ranking. Their correlations were also statistically analyzed.

The fabric pulling force reflects the physical and surface properties of the fabrics measured by the FAST instrument and its ability to rank fabric softness appears to be close to the human hand response on fabric softness. The pulling force method can also distinguish the difference of fabrics knitted with different wool fiber contents.

Only 21 woven and three knitted fabrics were used for this investigation. More fabrics with different structures and finishes may be evaluated before the testing method can be put in practice.

The testing method could be used for objective assessment of fabric softness.

The testing method reported in this paper is a new concept in fabric softness measurement. It can provide objective specifications for fabric softness, thus should be valuable to fabric community.

Deals with the qualitative and quantitative analysis of the tailorability of lightweight wool fabrics, as well as studies related to the interaction between the ease of tailorability and performance characteristics of wool fabrics. The role of mechanical/physical properties of fabric in the making‐up process as regards lightweight wool fabrics must be fully understood in order to achieve trouble‐free tailoring of garments made from such fabrics. Places emphasis on practical analysis of tailorability of difficult lightweight wool fabrics, providing subsequent solutions for the making‐up of such fabrics. In tailorability prediction analysis work, in addition to analysis of overall garment production, the further analysis of part processes such as sewing, feeding and handling have also been made using TEFO’s computerized methods of analysis. Results are analysed in terms of the relevant mechanical and physical properties of the test fabrics. Evaluates properties using both the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) and Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) sets of instruments.