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Article
Publication date: 25 February 2021

G.L.D. Wickramasinghe G.L.D. Wickramasinghe, Sameera Umesh Dolawatte, Isuru Udayanga Thebuwana and W.W.S. Sampath Botheju

The main objectives of this research work were to investigate the effect of production speed on intermingled yarn properties and melange fabric properties with special reference…

Abstract

Purpose

The main objectives of this research work were to investigate the effect of production speed on intermingled yarn properties and melange fabric properties with special reference to melange appearance.

Design/methodology/approach

Polyester/nylon intermingled yarns were produced using an SSM DP3-C air-intermingling machine using commercial process parameters and Heberlein P212 nozzle. Melange fabric samples were knitted from polyester/nylon intermingled yarns while maintaining the same parameters to avoid knitting variations. The fabric samples were dyed using a sample dyeing machine while maintaining dye recipe and dyeing parameters constant to avoid dyeing variations.

Findings

The production speed has significant effect on intermingled yarn and melange fabric properties. When the production speed is increased, mingle points, mingle stability, linear density, strength and the elongation of the intermingled yarns decreases. When the production speed is increased, fabric weight decreases and the melange effect varies from dot-like appearance to line-like appearance.

Research limitations/implications

Only the effect of production speed on intermingled yarn and melange fabric properties is discussed in this paper. Appearance evaluating systems developed in this research are limited to melange fabrics produced using air-intermingled yarns with two colour components.

Practical implications

Results indicate that the intermingled yarns for the application of melange fabrics should be developed with optimum intermingling speeds, and it should not be changed during the production since production speed has significant effect on yarn and fabric parameters. Therefore, melange appearance and fabric weight may vary between fabric lots with different production speeds even though all the other parameters are kept constant. Further, melange appearance evaluation method developed in this research could be used as a guide in developing melange fabrics.

Originality/value

This research introduced a qualitative and a quantitative method to analyse melange fabric appearance. This melange appearance evaluation method can be used as a guide to achieve specific melange effect in the sample development stage. Further, when a melange sample appearance catalogue is developed for all the variables for a particular fabric type using this evaluation method, customer requested appearance can be achieved in minimum sample trials which save time, capacity, money and customer credibility.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 February 2004

J. Geršak

Garment is presumably the only product where, in the tailoring process, a two‐dimensional fabric is converted into a three‐dimensional shape without indirect physical remodelling…

Abstract

Garment is presumably the only product where, in the tailoring process, a two‐dimensional fabric is converted into a three‐dimensional shape without indirect physical remodelling of the material. Such a remodelling is directly associated with the physical behaviour of fabric structure, which can be treated as a very complex system owing to its constructional properties. Fabrics are non‐homogeneous and anisotropic materials. Very small stresses on textile materials cause extremely large strains, so that the deformations occurring are highly non‐linear. Non‐linear properties of textile materials and thus, connected deformations at low stresses are closely related to the elastic potential and influence fabric draping and fitting of the garment manufactured. For this purpose, the relationship between fabric elastic potential, as an important property under lower tensile load, and garment appearance quality, will be investigated. The investigation is subdivided into two parts. The first part presents the study of relationship between the elastic potential and particular mechanical properties of fabrics, whereas the second part of the investigation is concerned with studying the influence of fabric elastic potential on the drapeability, respectively, appearance quality of the garment manufactured.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 16 no. 1/2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 October 2007

B.K. Behera and Rajesh Mishra

The purpose of this paper is to investigate an alternative approach that can predict non‐linear relations.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate an alternative approach that can predict non‐linear relations.

Design/methodology/approach

An engineered approach to fabric development is described in which a radial basis function network is trained with worsted fabric constructional parameters to predict functional and aesthetic properties of fabrics. An objective method of fabric appearance evaluation with the help of digital image processing is introduced. The prediction of fabric properties by the network with changing basic fibre characteristics and fabric constructional parameters is found to have good correlation with the experimental values of fabric functional and aesthetic properties.

Findings

The radial basis function network can successfully predict the fabric functional and aesthetic properties from basic fibre characteristics and fabric constructional parameters with considerable accuracy. The network prediction is in good correlation with the actual experimental data. There is some error in predicting the fabric properties from the constructional parameters. The variation in the actual values and predicted values is because of small sample size. Moreover, the properties of worsted fabrics are greatly influenced by the finishing parameters which are not taken into consideration in the training of the network. Prediction performance can be further improved by including these parameters as input, during the training phase. In few cases, the network has predicted contradictory trends, which are found difficult to be explained.

Originality/value

The paper describes a radial basis function neural network model that can be used for the prediction of the fabric appearance values and comfort properties using fabric constructional parameters and some primary fibre mechanical properties as input parameters of the network.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 19 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 June 2017

Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay, Vinay Kumar Midha and Nemai Chandra Ray

This study aims to optimize the parametric combination of injected slub yarn to achieve least abrasive damage on fabrics produced from it.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to optimize the parametric combination of injected slub yarn to achieve least abrasive damage on fabrics produced from it.

Design/methodology/approach

Single base injected slub yarn structural parameters, vis-à-vis slub length, slub thickness and slub frequency, were varied during preparation of yarn samples under this research work. A total of 17 yarn samples were produced according to the Box and Bhenken design of the experiment. Subsequently knitted and woven (using injected slub yarns in the weft only) fabric samples were prepared from these yarns. Yarn and fabric samples were abraded with standard instruments to see the impact of yarn structural parameters on abrasive damage of fabric in terms of fabric mass loss and appearance deterioration. From the test results, empirical models relating to slub parameters and fabric abrasion behavior were developed through a backward elimination regression approach. Subsequently, a set of optimal parametric combinations was derived with multi-objective evolutionary algorithms by using MATLAB software. This was followed by ranking all optimal solutions through technique for order preference by similarity to idle solution (TOPSIS) score analysis.

Findings

The injected slub yarn’s structural parameters have a strong influence on the abrasive damage of knitted and woven fabric. It is seen that the best suitable parametric combination of slub parameters for achieving the least abrasive damage is not the same for knitted and woven fabric.

Practical implications

The spinner can explore this concept to find out the best suitable parametric combination during pattern making of injected slub yarn through MATLAB solution followed by TOPSIS score analysis based on their priority of criteria level to ensure better abrasion behavior of fabric produced.

Originality/value

Optimization of parametric combination of injected slub yarns will help to ensure production of fabric with most resistance to abrasion for specific applications. The studies showed that the optimal solution for woven and knitted fabrics is different. The result indicates that in the case of knitted fabric, comparatively lesser slub thickness is found to be suitable for getting better fabric abrasion resistance, whereas in the case of woven fabric, comparatively higher slub thickness is found suitable for the same.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 November 2015

Mouna Gazzah, Boubaker Jaouachi, Laurence Schacher, Dominique Charles Adolphe and Faouzi Sakli

The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability. Hence, it attempts to carry out the significant inputs and outputs that have an influence on the bagging behaviors using the Principal Component Analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the Kawabata Evaluation System parameters such as the frictional characteristics, the bending, compression, tensile and shear parameters are investigated to propose a model highlighting and explaining their impacts on the different bagging properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their bagging properties using Taguchi experimental design. The linear regressive models prove the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.

Design/methodology/approach

To investigate the mechanical properties and their contributions on the bagging characteristics, some denim fabrics were collected and measured thanks to the Kawabata evaluation systems (KES-FB1, KES-FB2, KES-FB3 and KES-FB4). These bagging properties were further analyzed applying the method of PCA to acquire factor patterns that indicate the most important fabric properties for characterizing the bagging behaviors of different studied denim fabric samples. An experimental design type Taguchi was, hence, applied to improve the results. Regarding the obtained results, it may be concluded that the PCA method remained a powerful and flawless technique to select the main influential inputs and significant outputs, able to define objectively the bagging phenomenon and which should be considered from the next researches.

Findings

According to the results, there are good relationships between the Kawabata input parameters and the analyzed bagging properties of studied denim fabrics. Indeed, thanks to the PCA, it is probably easy to reduce the number of the influent parameters for three reasons. First, applying this technique of selection can help to select objectively the most influential inputs which affect enormously the bagged fabrics. Second, knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of denim fabric bagging seems fruitful and can undoubtedly help researchers explain widely this complex phenomenon. Third, regarding the findings mentioned, it seems that the prevention of this aesthetic phenomenon appearing in some specific zones of denim fabrics will be more and more accurate.

Practical implications

This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. Undoubtedly, the denim garments remained the largely used and consumed, hence, this particularity proves the necessity to study it in order to evaluate the bagging phenomenon which occurs as function of number of uses. Although it is fashionable to have bagging, the denim fabric remains, in contrast with the worsted ones, the most popular fabric to produce garments. Moreover, regarding this characteristic, the large uses and the acceptable value of denim fabrics, their aesthetic appearance behavior due to bagging phenomenon can be analyzed accurately because compared to worsted fabrics, they have a high value and the repetitive tests to investigate widely bagged zones may fall the industrial. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. This can help understanding why residual bagging behavior remained after garment uses due to the internal stress and excessive extensions. Regarding the selected influential inputs and outputs relative to bagging behaviors, there are some practical implications that have an impact on the industrial and researchers to study objectively the occurrence of this aesthetic phenomenon. Indeed, this study discusses the significance of the overall inputs; their contributions on the denim fabric bagged zones aims to prevent their ability to appear after uses. Moreover, the results obtained regarding the fabric mechanical properties can be useful to fabric and garment producers, designers and consumers in specifying and categorizing denim fabric products, insuring more denim cloth use and controlling fabric value. For applications where the subjective view of the consumer is of primary importance, the KES-FB system yields data that can be used for evaluating fabric properties objectively and prejudge the consumer satisfaction in viewpoint of the bagging ability. Therefore, this study shows that by measuring shear, tensile and frictional parameters of KES-FB, it may be possible to evaluate bagging properties. However, it highlights the importance and the significance of some inputs considered influential or the contrast (non-significant) in other researches.

Originality/value

This work presents the first study analyzing the bagged denim fabric applying the PCA technique to remove the all input parameters which are not significant. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the mechanical fabric properties (tensile, shear and frictional stresses) and the bagging properties behavior. To improve these obtained relationships, for the first time, the regression technique and experimental design type Taguchi analysis were both applied. Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let researchers and industrials investigate the most influential inputs only which have a bearing on the bagging phenomenon.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 March 1990

Herbert Barndt, Fred Fortess, Mel Wiener and J. Cyril Furniss

The experience of the Philadelphia College of Textiles and Science with the use of Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES‐F) since 1984 and more recently, 1988, with the…

Abstract

The experience of the Philadelphia College of Textiles and Science with the use of Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES‐F) since 1984 and more recently, 1988, with the Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) is described. Although previous projects have involved the effect of chemical and mechanical finishing and sponging on the hand and mechanical properties of fabrics, the major emphasis here correlates the processability of fabrics in tailored clothing manufacturing, especially in manually operated overfeed sewing, with the tensile‐elongation and shear properties of these fabrics. It is anticipated that programmable sewing machines will require instructions based on the mechanical properties of the fabrics being processed.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 2 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 March 2011

Simona Jevšnik, Zoran Stjepanovič, Lea Heikinheimo and Karl Gotlih

Enzyme treatment technologies are frequently applied in textile processing for the modification of fabric handle appearance and other surface characteristics in regard to cotton…

Abstract

Purpose

Enzyme treatment technologies are frequently applied in textile processing for the modification of fabric handle appearance and other surface characteristics in regard to cotton and cotton blended fabrics. The purpose of this paper is to understand the impact of enzyme treatments on fabric preparation, dyeing, and finishing processes of woven fabrics. In particular, certain mechanical and surface properties of 100 percent cotton interlock knitted fabrics after treatment with a cellulase enzyme.

Design/methodology/approach

Interlock knitted fabrics were used for this research. These cotton fabrics were treated with experimental Trichoderma reesei cellulases containing different cellulase profiles and treatment was carried out under laboratory conditions. The effects of cellulase treatment on weft knitted fabric regarding mechanical and surface properties were evaluated using the KES‐FB Kawabata evaluation system. The influence of enzyme treatments, friction, and geometrical roughness on the face and reverse side of interlock knitted fabrics were discussed in comparison with untreated interlock knitted fabric.

Findings

After each of the enzyme treatments, the interlock knitted fabrics lost part of their weight and, therefore, they became thinner. Furthermore, the extension properties become higher in both directions with regard to the untreated knitted fabric for all used enzymes and carried out treatments.

Originality/value

The paper usefully analyzes changes in the extension and surface properties of enzyme‐treated interlock knitted fabrics by investigating the influence of whole or enriched endoglucanases celullases of Trihoderma reesei under different treatment conditions.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 23 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 December 2001

George Stylios

Discusses the 6th ITCRR, its breadth of textile and clothing research activity, plus the encouragement given to workers in this field and its related areas. States that, within…

1078

Abstract

Discusses the 6th ITCRR, its breadth of textile and clothing research activity, plus the encouragement given to workers in this field and its related areas. States that, within the newer research areas under the microscope of the community involved, technical textiles focuses on new, ‘smart’ garments and the initiatives in this field in both the UK and the international community at large. Covers this subject at length.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 13 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 April 2005

Kaushal Raj Sharma, B.K. Behera, H. Roedel and Andrea Schenk

Drape of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. When two‐dimensional fabrics are…

1079

Abstract

Purpose

Drape of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. When two‐dimensional fabrics are converted to three‐dimensional garment forms, a number of operations are required which affect drape behaviour of the fabric while present in garment form. In the present study, the effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics is investigated.Design/methodology/approach – The effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics is investigated. Comparisons were also made between different stitches (chain stitch and lock stitch), different seams for lock stitch and different types of interlinings for their effect on drape behaviour of fabrics. In addition to drape coefficient and number of folds, a new drape parameter – average amplitude to average radius (A/r) ratio – was also defined and calculated for drape image geometry.Findings – Drape coefficient has a good to strong correlation with A/r ratio and number of folds for most of the shell, sewn and interlining fused fabrics except for a few cases. A/r defines image in a more descriptive manner than drape coefficient. Drape coefficient changes with the types of seams and stitches used, as well as with the interlining used.Originality/value – This paper provides information on the effects of sewing (seams and stitch types) and fused interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 17 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 November 2014

Dariush Semnani, Mohammad Sheikhzadehand, Ata Shahanaghi and Mehdi Hadjianfar

To produce wrinkled fabrics, wrinkles are randomly formed without any means of control. There are many research that aim to enhance the surface of fabric in appearance, but there…

50

Abstract

To produce wrinkled fabrics, wrinkles are randomly formed without any means of control. There are many research that aim to enhance the surface of fabric in appearance, but there has not been any work carried out to produce wrinkles by using yarn features. The aim of the present research is to produce controlled and custom-made wrinkled fabrics. Wrinkled fabric samples have been produced with high shrinkage polyester-cotton made of intermingled hybrid yarns. Wrinkled weaves have been predicted by using wavelet analysis on sample fabrics and multi-layer perceptron neural networks. The designed network has been trained based on sample patterns and determined a weft insertion plan for producing wrinkles with an acceptable accuracy

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 18 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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