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The purpose of this paper is to investigate the influence of embroidering technological parameters, of knitted material structure and of either using or not nonwoven material for backing on the quality of restangular embroidered element; based on the obtained results to select the optimal technological parameters for the embroidering of original clothing element avoiding the higher time expenses for the technical development process of new product.

The new methodology for the optimization of technology of original embroidered clothing element is based on the measurements of simple geometric element.

The methodology of technology optimisation based on the measurement of restangular element geometric parameters can also be applied for the optimization of the embroidering technology of advanced design elements.

The present study was carried out investigating knitted materials, but its methodology may be used for woven fabrics also, as their elongation rate is lower than one of knitted materials.

Development of the embroidering technology of original clothing element is based on the scientific approach and industrial experience.

The purpose of this paper is to determine conformity of geometrical parameters between the elements embroidered with photoluminescent threads and their digital images as well as to explore the change in photoluminescent radiation.

Using some different methodologies and apparatus, analysis shape of embroidered elements conformity and photoluminescent luminance attenuation are analysed.

The provided methodologies allow assessing the quality of embroidered elements area and photoluminescent properties.

The proposed approach can be adjusted to investigate photoluminescent properties of embroidered elements of different filling types.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the non-uniformity of the surface where textile fabric systems were joined using embroidery with the help of the system dimensional scanning.

To ascertain and evaluate surface non-uniformity and puckering of the embroidered elements dimensional 3D laser scanner was used. The dimensional 3D model of the embroidered element was imported into the software package RapidformTM and returned to the beginning of the coordinate system for the puckering analysis and evaluation.

The obtained results have shown that when embroidering an element it is important to evaluate the direction of stitches with consideration to the fabric because when elements are performed in different fabric direction their quality can be different. The embroidered elements that were performed on more lightweight fabrics have bigger surface non-uniformity. The greatest inadequacy of shape and dimensions in the embroidered element was found for materials with the smallest value of surface density, closeness of texture and the smallest indicator of fabric surface filling.

The proposed approach can be adjusted to investigate surface non-uniformity of embroidered elements.

The purpose of this paper is to establish the regression equation based upon a set of samples prepared through structured design of experiment and form a prediction model for prediction of the areal density gram per square meter (GSM) of the embroidered fabrics and study the influence of basic input parameters.

Embroidery samples are prepared taking input parameters as GSM of the base fabric, linear density of the embroidery thread and stitch density of the embroidery design. Three levels of values are identified for each of the input parameters. Taguchi and Box-Behnken experiment design principles are used to prepare two sets of samples. Linear multiple regression is used to determine the prediction equations based upon each of the two sets and the combined set as well. Prediction equations are statistically verified for the prediction accuracy. Also, surface curves are prepared to study the influence of embroidery parameters on the GSM.

It is found that all the three prediction models developed in this study can predict with a very satisfactory level of accuracy. However, the regression equation based upon the data set prepared according to Taguchi experiment design is emerged as the prediction model with highest level of prediction accuracy. Corresponding equation coefficients and several three-dimensional surface curves are used to study the influence of embroidery parameters and it is found that the stitch density is the most influential input parameter followed by stitch length and the GSM of base fabric.

This can be used to assess the GSM of embroidered fabrics before starting the actual embroidery process. So, this model can help the embroidery designers significantly to pre-estimate the GSM of the embroidered fabrics and select the design parameters accordingly. Also, this model can be a useful tool for estimation of thread consumption and thread cost in embroidery.

The input parameters used here are very basic parameters related to design and materials, which can be easily available. And also, a simple linear multiple regression is used to make the prediction equation simple and easy to use. So, this model can help the embroidery designers or garment designers to select/adjust the embroidery parameters and thread parameters accordingly in the planning and designing stage itself to ensure that the GSM of embroidered fabrics remains within desirable range. Also, this prediction model developed hereby may be a very useful tool for estimation of the consumption and cost of embroidery threads.

This paper presents a very fundamental study to reveal the effect of embroidery parameters on the GSM, through development of regression equations. It can help future researchers in optimizations of input parameters and forming a technical guideline for the embroidery designers for selection of the design parameters for a desired GSM of embroidered fabric.

The purpose of this paper is to develop a user friendly, wearable pain management system by optimizing CAD embroidery parameters for manufacturing high performance dry transcutaneous electrical neural stimulation (TENS) electrodes.

User-centered design methodology is employed to identify user needs related to TENS devices. Optimization of CAD embroidery parameters was done by measuring and calculating resistance and signal-to-noise values for electrodes manufactured with different conductive thread, stitch pattern, and stitch density types.

Characteristics of the conductive thread such as thickness and irregularity, embroidery stitch pattern, stitch density therefore the amount of conductive thread used all effect resistance values and signal-to-noise values of TENS electrodes. Low resistance of TENS electrode surface does not mean high signal-to-noise ratio and high TENS signal quality. Satin stitch type with low stitch density provides the best resistance and signal-to-noise ratio for a TENS electrode.

This study reported the design process of a wearable pain management system with a focus on optimization of embroidery manufacturing parameters for development of TENS electrodes. The design process not only required technical optimization but also understanding user problems related to use of conventional TENS devices. Proposed end product is a user friendly, electronic textile based, wireless wearable pain management system in different forms suitable for major pain areas such as knee, elbow and neck.

Embroidery as a textile embellishment technique plays an important role in people's daily life. Esthetic embroidery artworks possess cultural values. With the development of robotics and artificial intelligence (AI), these technologies have been studied and applied in the embroidery process. This study aims to survey how these technologies facilitate embroidery from different aspects.

This paper surveys how the technologies of robotics and AI are applied in the embroidery field. The applications are mainly reviewed from three aspects: computerized robotic embroidery systems has been widely used for the mass production of embroidered textiles, the advanced technological systems and techniques have greatly facilitated the development of smart textiles and the artificial intelligence plays an important role in the inheritance, innovation and protection of traditional handicraft artwork of embroidery.

The programmable robotic embroidery machines have greatly improved the production efficiency of embroidered textiles and promoted the development of electronic textiles. The AI, mainly the deep learning technology, brings significant benefits to esthetic embroidery creation. Technology-based embroidery has become a hot research topic in the field of textiles.

This paper summarizes the application of robotics and AI technologies in the field of embroidery, which provides readers a comprehensive and systematic understanding about the research progress of modern technology-oriented embroidery. This helps readers gain inspiration from the technology perspectives.

This scholarly work aims to investigate the business career of Alfred J. Kohlberg, an American importer of hand-embroidered handkerchiefs in 1922-1957.

This paper uses archival resources from the National Archives, the Herbert Hoover Presidential Library, the Hoover Institution Archives, the Federal Bureau of Investigation, Custom Courts records, Japanese Government records and other government documents.

Scholars have focused on how Kohlberg’s political activities paved the way for McCarthyism. The sources of his vast wealth have not received attention. Kohlberg parlayed a 1922 trip to Asia into a highly lucrative importing business specializing in Chinese napery. By 1930, he mostly imported hand-embroidered handkerchiefs for sale in upscale American department stores. He employed as many 12,000 people in his Shantou godown and contracted for the employment of at least 100,000 embroiderers and perhaps many hundreds of thousands more. Despite American Government policy and the wishes of other importers, Japanese occupation authority documents show that Kohlberg negotiated a bribe to keep the port open. This paper concludes that Kohlberg’s business reflected traditional Chinese business organization. While he stressed his patriotic activities during the Second World War, Kohlberg promoted his business interest over the national interest. Finally, the Chaoshan Region prospered by providing the modern world with traditional hand-produced goods.

This work explains how the Chaoshan Region functioned in the global economy. It calls for a deeper examination of this entire industry in China and around the world.

This work uses documents from multiple archives, including Japan and the USA. It also includes declassified documents from the Federal Bureau Investigation. This work constitutes a template for international business history.

To design, develop and construct specific garment designs for use in Croatia as academic gowns using advanced engineering principles.

The synergism of historians, designers, engineers, clothing technologists and textile finishers using specialised equipment has been employed in this project.

Using interdisciplinarity can yield good results.

The research targets specific products, but its methodology may be used for any other products/end users also.

Gowns have been designed, made and used in academic ceremonies successfully.

Design/technology approach to new product development.

The fundamental relationship between art and resilience is striking in this passage and in the reflections shared by other artists. This paper aims to attempt to piece together the fragmented and insecure realities in South Sudan through the lens of different artists. The paper argues that focusing on art is an important way into a deeper more nuanced picture of how women and men find and maintain resilience in humanitarian contexts.

The data is qualitatively collected through an innovative art-based creative method known as story circles. The circles consisted of artists who shared what their art form meant to them.

The picture that emerges contrasts starkly against the dark narratives that commonly portray South Sudan. Art making spaces and the outputs that come from them are cultural resources often overlooked by humanitarian stakeholders and yet, as the authors show, hold the potential to support more locally rooted and responsive approaches to resilience building.

Very little research has been conducted on the ways in which people in South Sudan draw on and find resilience in art and art making.

This study aims to analyze how conventional Bedouin weaving techniques have changed through the history of Israel, offering knowledge on the craft’s cultural relevance and historical development among the Bedouin people and how their weaving and embroidery differ based on the three main geographic characteristics. It tries to comprehend the causes of the transition from organic to synthetic materials and the part played by the Lakiya Negev Bedouin Weaving women’s cooperative in maintaining this legacy.

The main goal of this study is to trace the emergence of Bedouin weaving traditions in the Negev Desert using a qualitative research methodology that combines historical analysis and ethnographic investigation. A thorough grasp of the subject’s significance is provided through the data gathering, which consists of interviews, archival research and field observations.

Through the years, Bedouin weaving techniques have significantly shifted away from using traditional organic materials in favor of synthetic replacements, according to the research. It emphasizes the crucial part played by the Lakiya Negev Bedouin Weaving women’s organization in safeguarding this traditional legacy and giving Bedouin women access to economic prospects.

The limitation of the study includes its emphasis on the Negev region and the Israeli Bedouin community, which may not accurately reflect all Bedouin weaving techniques. Greater regional settings may be explored in future studies.

The investigation emphasizes the value of investing in initiatives for cultural preservation and the empowerment of underprivileged groups through economic possibilities.

By preserving ancient weaving techniques, this research enables Bedouin women in the Negev Desert to maintain their cultural identity and socioeconomic well-being.

By emphasizing the socio-cultural dimensions and the organization’s role in preserving traditional craftsmanship in a changing socio-economic environment, this research presents a unique investigation of the evolution of Bedouin weaving techniques in Israel.