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Article
Publication date: 3 July 2017

Padma S. Vankar, Dhara Shukla, Samudrika Wijayapala and Asish Kumar Samanta

Natural dyes are mostly used for dyeing of natural fibre textiles to improve their eco-friendly features. For successful commercial use of natural dyes, the appropriate and…

Abstract

Purpose

Natural dyes are mostly used for dyeing of natural fibre textiles to improve their eco-friendly features. For successful commercial use of natural dyes, the appropriate and standardized dyeing techniques need to be adopted. Appropriate scientific techniques or procedures need to be derived from scientific studies on dyeing methods, dyeing process variables, dyeing kinetics and compatibility of selective natural dyes with minimal use of hazardous chemicals.

Design/methodology/approach

In the present study, different enzymes (protease, amylase, xylanase, pectinase, phytase) were used efficiently with Rubia dye by using simultaneous and two-step processes; both the processes were developed with an aim for conservation of time and energy, for the ease of industrial use. The highlights of the study are twofold: eco-friendly natural dyeing by using enzyme replacing metal mordant and room temperature dyeing, which is a completely new concept.

Findings

Experiments showed that enzymatic treatment can give good colour strength to silk fabric using Rubia as a dye source and has good potential for commercial dyeing. It is a non-toxic dye. Use of enzymes were a deliberate attempt to avoid metal mordanting in silk dyeing, as it would make textile dyeing eco-friendlier. The order of reactivity of enzymes in one-step process was found to be protease > phytase > xylanase > amylase > pectinase. Similarly, for two-step dyeing process, the order of reactivity of enzymes observed was protease > amylase > xylanase = pectinase > phytase. Protease enzyme was the best option in both the cases. Overall, it can be concluded that in the case of enzymatic treatment, the two-step process was better in terms of larger K/S values, colour coordinate values and dye adherence.

Research limitations/implications

A new domain of room temperature dyeing technique has been introduced.

Originality/value

In the present study, different enzymes (protease, amylase, xylanase, pectinase, phytase) were used efficiently with Rubia dye by using simultaneous and two-step processes; both the processes were developed with an aim for conservation of time and energy, for the ease of industrial use. The highlights of the research are twofold: eco-friendly natural dyeing by using enzyme replacing metal mordant and room temperature dyeing, which is a completely new concept. Overall, the ease of use for industrial application. Rubia dye from Sri Lanka has been used in conjunction with different enzymes to show that metal mordanting can be easily replaced by the use of eco-friendly and biodegradable enzymes. The most attractive feature of this study is the low-temperature dyeing at 30-40°C. For any dyeing house, this process can be easily adapted on jigger, winch or even in continuous padding machine. Good fastness properties and dye adherence have been the other highlights of this study.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 46 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 December 2020

Chung-haur Howard Lo

Dyeing process is usually to blame negatively for deteriorating the environment. Eco-friendly silk fibers are able to exercising their commercial values well followed by…

Abstract

Purpose

Dyeing process is usually to blame negatively for deteriorating the environment. Eco-friendly silk fibers are able to exercising their commercial values well followed by eco-friendly processing. One of the supporting examples is the process of changing the colors of silk fabrics. This would include the dyeing process used to change the colors of silk fabric. The intention of the study is to reach the goal of creating an eco-friendly finishing process using a local natural plant-based indigo dyeing process that would complement an eco-friendly degumming process. Currently, most dye houses use sodium hydrosulfite (Na2S2O4) and alkali (NaOH) as the substances for providing hydrogen as a reducing agent. Since the sodium hydroxide by-products are acidic, they may damage equipment in the dye houses, generate air pollution in working environment. The other problems associated with the use of sodium hydrosulfite are the cost and instability with low storage.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper is based on continuing improvements to the commercialization of the raw materials via the innovative degumming process elaborated in the author’s previous study: “Degumming of Silk Fibers by CO2 Supercritical Fluid.” The initial study has already proved that it was possible to remove sericin from raw silk fiber by using an organic acid pretreatment and CO2 supercritical fluid over the heavy processes the industry currently deploys. The sericin removed from this innovative and eco-friendly processing of silk fiber will be remained in a clean state, not in the form of waste via the existing technologies in use. Clean sericin, rich in silk protein with high market values, can be a potentially perfect substitute of collagen the medical and cosmetic industries widely use. The continued research is focused on the other by-product coming out from this eco-friendly degumming process the silk fibers post degumming. Dyeing process is usually to blame negatively for deteriorating the environment. Eco-friendly silk fibers are able to exercising their commercial values well followed by eco-friendly processing. One of the supporting examples is the process of changing the colors of silk fabrics. This would include the dyeing process used to change the colors of silk fabric. The intention of the study is to reach the goal of creating an eco-friendly finishing process using a local natural plant-based indigo dyeing process that would complement an eco-friendly degumming process.

Findings

Degumming is an important stage in the silk manufacturing. Due to removing sericin from silk fibers, when subjected the degumming process, these silk fibers acquire the properties, which are of high consumer and commercial values, those include gloss, perfect color, soft handle and texture, elegant drape. Another purpose for the silk fabric degumming is preparing for the next step in processing, such as dyeing or printing. The author has developed a new approach to the degumming process exploiting a supercritical fluid carbon dioxide and found it as a good alternative to the conventional methods that are currently used in industry. Silk fabrics treated by the scCO2 degumming process are characterized by improved dyeing ability or color strength, while this process does not adversely affect the environment. The implications or potential applications of the findings: as it is clearly seen from Table 1, the effectiveness of the degumming process can be improved by at least 38% applying scCO2. Moreover, implementation of the scCO2 silk degumming process into the textile industry may help manufactures to consume less water and energy resources (Elmaaty and Abd El-Aziz, 2017), as well as to obtain pure sericin as a valuable end-product that can be used in the medical and cosmetic industries.

Research limitations/implications

The innovation and novel aspects of research: degumming is an important stage in the silk manufacturing. Due to removing sericin from silk fibers, when subjected the degumming process, these silk fibers acquire the properties, which are of high consumer and commercial values, those include gloss, perfect color, soft handle and texture, elegant drape. Another purpose for the silk fabric degumming is preparing for the next step in processing, such as dyeing or printing. The author has developed a new approach to the degumming process exploiting a supercritical fluid carbon dioxide and found it as a good alternative to the conventional methods that are currently used in industry. Silk fabrics treated by the scCO2 degumming process are characterized by improved dyeing ability or color strength, while this process does not adversely affect the environment.

Practical implications

The author has developed a new approach to the degumming process exploiting a supercritical fluid carbon dioxide and found it as a good alternative to the conventional methods that are currently used in industry. Silk fabrics treated by the scCO2 degumming process are characterized by improved dyeing ability or color strength, while this process does not adversely affect the environment.

Social implications

As it is clearly seen from Table 1, the effectiveness of the degumming process can be improved by at least 38% applying scCO2. Moreover, implementation of the scCO2 silk degumming process into the textile industry may help manufacturers to consume less water and energy resources (Elmaaty and Abd El-Aziz, 2017), as well as to obtain pure sericin as a valuable end-product that can be used in the medical and cosmetic industries.

Originality/value

To make the silk manufacturing more green, the author has developed a technology for obtaining a plant-based indigo dye applying only locally grown agricultural products. The author has found that banana paste and banana peel paste have a sufficiently enough reduction potential for converting the indigo dye into indigo white, which is an important stage in the dyeing processes. The investigation performed showed that both these pastes can serve as a green alternative to sodium hydrosulfite, widely used in industry as a reducing agent. The main result of this study is the demonstration that natural, recyclable and easily biodegradable resources can be exploited to produce the semi-products for the textile industry and the final dyed silk fabrics as well. Summarizing the above, it can be concluded that we have got the results, which show promising alternative green processes for the textile industry in silk treatment (both degumming and dyeing). Their implementation may turn the silk textile production into a sustainable green circle and economically viable manufacturer.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 31 March 2022

Xuemei Guan, Wenfeng Li and Jingyi Huang

The purpose of this paper is to improve the dyeing effect of fast-growing fir wood dyed with reactive dyes.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to improve the dyeing effect of fast-growing fir wood dyed with reactive dyes.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, five factors including temperature, the dosage of dye accelerator, dyeing time, the dosage of fixing agent and fixing time were investigated. Then, the color difference and light resistance of the wood surface after dyeing were used as the evaluation indicators; the best dyeing process under the two indicators was obtained through the range analysis. Finally, the two indicators were considered comprehensively, and the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method was used to obtain the best dyeing process under the comprehensive indicators.

Findings

The results show that when the comprehensive index was used as the evaluation index, the optimal dyeing process for reactive red X-3B dyeing fast-growing fir veneer was that the dyeing temperature was 65°C; the amount of dye accelerator was 25 g L−1; the dyeing time was 2 h; the amount of fixing agent was 15 g L−1; and the fixing time was 35 min.

Originality/value

The technique of wood dyeing is an important method to increase the value of wood products. When using different kinds of dyes or dyeing substrates for wood dyeing, the dyeing process is different. This study determined the best process for reactive dye dyeing of fast-growing fir veneer and provided a solution for improving the value of fast-growing fir wood.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 52 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 March 2018

Debojyoti Ganguly, Chanchal Mondal and Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury

The purpose of this study is to optimize single-bath dyeing process of wool and silk blend, to achieve uniform colour strength for both the fibre after the dyeing process. Due to…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to optimize single-bath dyeing process of wool and silk blend, to achieve uniform colour strength for both the fibre after the dyeing process. Due to different absorption characteristics of wool and silk, two-stage dyeing is preferred in the industry. If the fibres are dyed together, the wool fibre becomes darker and the silk fibre becomes lighter after the dyeing process. Solid dyeing effect can be achieved using a single-bath dyeing process.

Design/methodology/approach

The dye-acceptor sites in the wool fibre are first blocked using one commercial syntan Mesitol HWS. Then, the syntan-treated wool and silk fibres (80:20 blend ratios) are dyed with Telon Navy AMF dyes in the presence of sodium sulphate. To explore the influence of Syntan, sodium sulphate and the experimental conditions on the dyeing process and to optimize the process, central composite design (CCD) of four factors and three levels was tested.

Findings

The design process is optimized using four independent variables: Mesitol HWS concentration, sodium sulphate concentration, pH of dyebath and temperature of dyeing. Three levels of Mesitol HWS concentration (5, 10 and 15 per cent), sodium sulphate concentration (10, 20 and 30 per cent), pH (2.5, 4 and 5.5) and temperature of dyeing (70, 80 and 900°C) were selected for this study. These variables are optimized using response surface regression equation of the ratio of K/S wool and K/S silk. The predicted equation matched well with the experimental data.

Originality/value

This paper proposes the use of one-bath dyeing process of wool and silk blend fabric to reduce the dyeing time, process step and to save water.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 22 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 26 June 2009

Rong‐Ruey Duh, Thomas W. Lin, Wen‐Ying Wang and Chao‐Hsin Huang

This paper describes the design and implementation of an activity‐based costing (ABC) system for a textile company in Taiwan.

7443

Abstract

Purpose

This paper describes the design and implementation of an activity‐based costing (ABC) system for a textile company in Taiwan.

Design/methodology/approach

An in‐depth field investigation by collecting and analyzing 39 months of field data, gathering information from files and archives, direct observation, interviews, and statistical analyses was conducted.

Findings

First, the company's existing cost system adopted a volume‐based cost driver to allocate overhead costs to products. While the company devised an “equivalent factor” to take production‐complexity into account, the weakness of the metric led to product cost distortions. Second, the existing volume‐based cost system ignores the impact of rework processes on product costs. Third, adding complexity‐related cost drivers to the volume‐based cost driver increases the ability to explain variations in overhead costs. Fourth, the newly designed ABC system incorporates both volume‐based and non‐volume based drivers, which considers the effect of rework on product costs. Fifth, the existing volume‐based cost system overestimates the costs of high‐volume products and underestimates the costs of products with high production‐complexity. Finally, the company still stays at the analysis phase of the ABC system implementation, possibly due to revision of strategy, no linkage to incentives, lack of MIS support, and inadequate inventory control.

Practical implications

The above findings have implications for companies attempting to implement ABC.

Originality/value

This paper extends prior research in the following. First, it reports on the entire process of ABC implementation for a given company, as well as facilitators/impediments in the process. Second, while most prior research tends to focus on success cases, our study presents a failure case, which has implications for practitioners trying to avoid the same mistakes.

Details

International Journal of Accounting & Information Management, vol. 17 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1834-7649

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 December 2017

Xue Zhao

This paper aims to study microwave pad dyeing process for wool fabric. Influences of various dyeing process conditions including galactomannan dosage, urea dosage, sodium…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to study microwave pad dyeing process for wool fabric. Influences of various dyeing process conditions including galactomannan dosage, urea dosage, sodium bisulphite dosage, pH value, microwave irradiation power, treating time and cold batching time before microwave fixation on K/S values were analysed. The colour yield, fixation and levelness were compared between microwave fixation and cold batching fixation.

Design/methodology/approach

Colour yield (K/S values) was calculated using a Datacolor SF650 colour measuring and matching instrument (10° standard observer, CIE D65 light source Measuring; Datacolor, USA) and was used to determine the depth of the shade of dyed wool fabrics. Levelness of dyeing was evaluated also using the Datacolor SF650 colour measuring and matching instrument by measuring average deviation (S), range (P) of the maximum and the minimum for lightness (L), chroma (C) and hue (h), and balanced colour difference (ΔE) at 20 specified uniform locations on the wool fabrics. The colour difference was calculated as per the equation ΔE=(ΔL2+Δa2+Δb2)1/2 as appearing in the Experimental section. Fixation was determined using a Datacolor SF650 colour measuring and matching instrument by measuring ratio the of K/S for wool fabrics that were rinsed, washed, neutralised and then dried, and wool fabrics that were dried after fixation without washing. The pH of the padding solution was evaluated using a PHSJ-4A PH meter (Datacolor, USA). SEM analysis was done on JEOL JSM-5600LV machine (JEOL Ltd, Japan).

Findings

This study is based on application of microwave technology in the processing of silk.

Originality/value

It was found in laboratory experiments that uniform dyeing and deeper colour can be achieved throughout the microwave pad dyeing process for wool by using galactomannan. The novel process could reduce the dyeing time and the energy consumption of the traditional cold pad-batch dyeing process for wool fabric.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 October 2021

Ainur Rosyida, Suranto Suranto, Mohammad Masykuri and Margono Margono

This paper aims to examine the recipe for and standard methods of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extract. The dyeing of the fabric was performed by…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to examine the recipe for and standard methods of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extract. The dyeing of the fabric was performed by immersion it without heating for a short time to obtain the best results.

Design/methodology/approach

The dyeing experiment using cotton fabric with jackfruit wood extract was conducted by immersion at room temperature. The independent variables studied were the mordant method, type of mordant, mordant concentration, salt concentration and dyeing pH. The dependent variables were colour strength and colour fastness to washing and rubbing. The orthogonal array L16 (45) was used in the study to obtain the optimal values for each parameter of the response variables. The multi-response signal-to-noise (MRSN) method was used to optimise the five response variables with different quality characteristics so that the best parameters could be obtained based on the highest MRSN ratio value.

Findings

The best parameters were obtained at an MRSN value of 4.5254 under A3B3C1D2E4 conditions, namely, the dyeing process with post mordant, aluminium nitrate type mordant, mordant concentration of 10 g/L, salt concentration of 15 g/L and dyeing a pH: of 10. Under these conditions, the value of K/S was obtained at 1.893, colour fastness to washing (GS: 4) and (SS: 4–5), dry rubbing (SS: 5) and wet rubbing (SS: 4–5).

Research limitations/implications

Obtaining a standard recipe and method for dyeing cotton cloth with jackfruit wood extract by immersion without heating is expected to lead to the development of natural dyes, and especially their application on an industrial scale. This standard and method can be used as technical guidelines by industry. The use of aluminum nitrate as a mordant will help achieve optimal dyeing results. The use of polyaluminium chloride (PAC) mordant, which has the potential to produce high colour strength, and papaya fruit sap, which has the capacity to increase colour fastness, still need to be developed to improve the results of natural dyes.

Practical implications

The standard recipe and dyeing method will be able to improve the results of the dyeing of cotton fabrics with natural dyes. Short immersion dyeing without heating and the optimal results obtained are the main attractions for their use by the textile/batik industry, as the process is easier and a lower cost. The results of dyeing with dark colours and good colour fastness mean the textile products are of the higher quality demanded by consumers, thereby increasing sales. This will encourage the use of and increase the need for natural dyes by industry, consequently reducing the use of synthetic dyes.

Social implications

The use of natural dyes, chemical mordant from aluminum salts, and natural mordant from papaya fruit sap in the dyeing process in the textile/batik industry in Indonesia will produce eco-textile and eco-batik products that are environmentally friendly and of high quality. This in turn will increase consumer interest and sales, meaning that the income and economy of workers in the textile industry/crafts sector will also increase. In addition, the use of natural dyes with the selection of a safe mordant (not containing heavy metals) will reduce the use of synthetic dyes, which pollute and damage the aquatic environment.

Originality/value

This study found a standard recipe and method of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extracted by immersion without heating for a short time to obtain the best results. In addition, the discovery was of PAC, a new mordant which is effective in the use of natural dyes can give high colour strength to cotton fabric. In addition to the discovery of a new mordant, PAC, which has the potential to produce high colour strength, papaya fruit sap also has the capacity to increase colour fastness with the use of natural dyes from the flavonoid group.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 51 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 April 2024

Quratulain Mohtashim, Salma Farooq and Fareha Asim

The application of indigo dyes in the denim industries has been criticised due to the introduction of non-renewable oxidation products into the environment. Previous studies have…

Abstract

Purpose

The application of indigo dyes in the denim industries has been criticised due to the introduction of non-renewable oxidation products into the environment. Previous studies have investigated that reducing sugars can be used as green alternatives to sodium dithionite in the indigo dyeing of cotton fabric owing to their reduced and stable redox potential in the dye bath. The purpose of this study was to dye denim cotton fabric with indigo dye using various reducing sugars and alkalis. The use of sucrose and potassium hydroxide (KOH) for indigo dyeing has been explored for the first time.

Design/methodology/approach

A mixed factorial design with four variables including alkali, pH, number of dips and type of reducing sugar at different levels was studied to identify a significant correlation between the effect of these variables on the colour strength and fastness properties of the dyeings.

Findings

Investigations were made to examine the significant factors and interactions of the selected responses in the eco-friendly dyeing method. This process has the potential to reduce the load of sulphite and sulphate generated in the dyebath due to the use of a conventional reducing agent, sodium dithionite. The colour strength of the dyeing reduced with fructose was found to be better than other reducing sugars and significantly influenced by the number of dips, pH levels and the interaction between pH and reducing sugars. Using fructose for indigo dyeing with two dips at a pH of 11.5, using KOH as an alkali, results in higher colour strength values. The fastness properties of the indigo-dyed sample with reducing sugars ranging from fair to good or good to excellent. Specifically, colour change receives a rating of grey scale 3–4, staining 4–5, dry rubbing 4 and light fastness 3–4. These assessments hold true across various factors such as the type of reducing sugar, alkali, pH and the number of dips. The optimised parameters leading to improved colour strength and fastness properties are also discussed.

Originality/value

This dyeing technique is novel and a green alternative to dithionite denim dyeing. This process is found to be useful for indigo dyeing of denim fabric leading to reduced and stable redox potential in the dyebath and acceptable colour strength of the dyed fabric.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 September 2017

Debojyoti Ganguly, Chanchal Mondal and Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury

In recent times, wool- and silk-blended fabrics are popular for creating glamourous products. Silk is blended to wool for creating more lustrous effect and to impart strength; on…

Abstract

Purpose

In recent times, wool- and silk-blended fabrics are popular for creating glamourous products. Silk is blended to wool for creating more lustrous effect and to impart strength; on the other hand, wool is responsible for resilience, softness and warmth properties. Chemically both the fibres are protein-based, but the amount of amino acids is different. Due to this, the dye absorption behaviours of the two fibres from the same dye-bath are different. Wool is become darker than the silk fibre, if both the fibres are dyed together in a single bath dyeing process.

Design/methodology/approach

Here the wool fibres are first pre-treated with a commercial synthetic tanning agent (syntan) Mesitol HWS at three different pH values of 2.2, 3.2 and 4.2 and at three different concentrations: 5, 10 and 15 per cent. Then the syntan pre-treated wool fibres are dyed together with silk fibres maintaining the blend ratio as 80:20 by Telon Red MR, Telon Yellow M4GL and Telon Blue MRLW with sodium sulphate at three different concentrations of 10, 20 and 30 per cent.

Findings

The dye absorbency of the syntan-treated wool fibres decreased with increase in syntan concentration, whereas the colour strength of silk fibres increased. The resist effectiveness of wool fibres is increased from 6 to 59 per cent with increase of syntan concentration. So after the dyeing process, the colour strength of syntan-treated wool fibres are almost same with the colour strength of silk fibres. The washing fastness of the samples is improved, and wash fastness behaviour of both wool and silk fibres is almost same.

Originality/value

This paper gives an idea about the one bath dyeing process of wool- and silk-blended fabrics to achieve solid dyeing effect.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 February 2024

Dawu Shu, Shaolei Cao, Yan Zhang, Wanxin Li, Bo Han, Fangfang An and Ruining Liu

This paper aims to find a suitable solution to degrade the C.I. Reactive Red 24 (RR24) dyeing wastewater by using sodium persulphate to recycle water and inorganic salts.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to find a suitable solution to degrade the C.I. Reactive Red 24 (RR24) dyeing wastewater by using sodium persulphate to recycle water and inorganic salts.

Design/methodology/approach

The effects of temperature, the concentration of inorganic salts and Na2CO3 and the initial pH value on the degradation of RR24 were studied. Furthermore, the relationship between free radicals and RR24 degradation effect was investigated. Microscopic routes and mechanisms of dye degradation were further confirmed by testing the degradation karyoplasmic ratio of the product. The feasibility of the one-bath cyclic dyeing in the recycled dyeing wastewater was confirmed through the properties of dye utilization and color parameters.

Findings

The appropriate conditions were 0.3 g/L of sodium persulphate and treatment at 95°C for 30 min, which resulted in a decolorization rate of 98.4% for the dyeing wastewater. Acidic conditions are conducive to rapid degradation of dyes, while ·OH or SO4· have a destructive effect on dyes under alkaline conditions. In the early stage of degradation, ·OH played a major role in the degradation of dyes. For sustainable cyclic dyeing of RR24, inorganic salts were reused in this dyeing process and dye uptake increased with the times of cycles. After the fixation, some Na2CO3 may be converted to other salts, thereby increasing the dye uptake in subsequent cyclic staining. However, it has little impact on the dye exhaustion rate and color parameters of dyed fabrics.

Originality/value

The recommended technology not only reduces the quantity of dyeing wastewater but also enables the recycling of inorganic salts and water, which meets the requirements of sustainable development and clean production.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

1 – 10 of over 1000