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The aim of this contribution is to answer the question if and how mechanical fabric parameters being components of a formability coefficient as well as mechanical parameters being components of fabric handle influence the fabric drape. Therefore, all these parameters were measured for ten fabrics and correlated with the drape coefficient.

The main factors affecting consumers when selecting denim garments are aesthetic, appearance and fashion. Besides these factors, comfort and performance properties of the denim garments during usage are very important. The purpose of this paper is to determine the effects of different finishing processes on the performance properties of 100 percent cotton and 98 percent cotton+2 percent elastane denim fabrics.

The research design for this study consists of experimental study. In order to evaluate the effects of finishing on the performance properties of fabrics, eight types of fabrics were selected for evaluation. Rigid, resin, bleaching and softening type fabrics with and without elastane were analyzed statistically.

The results obtained in the study clearly showed that the types of finishing and elastane fiber in the fabric structure had a significant influence on mechanical and comfort properties of denim fabrics.

As a result of the literature review, it was seen that there were limited studies concerning mechanical, functional and comfort properties of denim fabrics together. In this study, the effects of finishing processes on the tear strength, stiffness, drape, mechanical and thermal comfort characteristics were deeply evaluated.

Draping is one method used in clothing design. It is important to virtualize draping in real time, and virtual cloth handling is a key technology for this purpose. A mouse is often used for real-time cloth handling in many studies. However, gesture manipulation is more realistic than movements using the mouse. The purpose of this paper is to demonstrate virtual cloth manipulation using hand gestures in the real world.

In this study, the authors demonstrate three types of manipulation: moving, cutting, and attaching. The user’s hand coordinates are obtained with a Kinect, and the cloth model is manipulated by them. The cloth model is moved based on the position of the hand coordinates. The cloth model is cut along a cut line calculated from the hand coordinates. In attaching the cloth model, it is mapped to a dummy model and then part of the cloth model is fixed and another part is released.

This method can move the cloth model according to the motion of the hands. The authors have succeeded in cutting the cloth model based on the hand trajectory. The cloth model can be attached to the dummy model and its form is changed along the dummy model shape.

Cloth handling in many studies is based on indirect manipulation using a mouse. In this study, the cloth model is manipulated according to hand motion in the real world in real time.

A garment is regarded as desirable and beautiful if it covers the body with harmony and gracefulness. High drape, lightweight and soft handle fabrics are in demand, particularly for womenswear garments such as dresses, shirts, skirts, trousers and suits. Fabric drapability can be measured by a number of drapemeters for different modes of drapability such as static, dynamic and revolving. It has been shown that the drape coefficients, D_s , D_d and D_r , associated with these respective modes of drapability can be predicted from a combination of measurements from the KES-F system (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics).

In this paper we present the results of our studies on the prediction of drapability of lightweight wool fabrics, based on the KES-F system and drape coefficient predictive equations. It has been shown that the parameters D_r/D_s and D_d/D_s , called Indices of Drape Fluidity, I_r and I_d , express the fluid drape behaviour better than D_s , D_r , D₂₀₀ and D_d . This is because they discriminate and predict the drapability of fabrics better. I_r and I_d have higher CV% than the D_r and D_d data, and therefore represent greater relative dispersion in a fabric group for drape. Various drape parameters of a group of wool fabrics have been compared with the four groups of polyester Shingosen fabrics, namely, New Silky, New Worsted, Rayon Touch and Peach Face, which are recognised for their soft fluid drape.

Discusses the quality of fabrics and garment technology. Looks at the various types of material focusing particularly on the female market. Shows how new synthetic fibres have improved the feel of garments and that consumers, fashion designers and experts in finishing have all reached the same conclusion, that quality judgement is still possible, even with today's exacting standards.

The purpose of this paper is to analyse dynamic drape behaviours of 100% wool woven suiting fabrics considering real-time usage.

Dynamic drape coefficients of 100% wool woven fabrics were measured at different rotation speeds (25, 75, 125 and 175 rpm) with a commercially used fabric drape tester which works on image processing principle. Average daily walking speed of male and female volunteers was determined and the closest rotation speed was selected to calculate dynamic drape coefficient at walking (DDCw). Besides, bending rigidity and shear deformation properties, which are known to be related to the static drape behaviours of the fabrics, were also measured and the relationships between these parameters and DDCw were examined.

As a result of the experimental study, it was found that dynamic drape coefficients become greater, which means the fabrics take flatter position, with the increase of the rotation speed. In addition, it was also seen that parameters known to be related to static drape behaviours such as unit weight and bending stiffness have less effect on the dynamic drapes of fabrics. For the estimation of dynamic drape behaviour of fabrics, parameters such as static perimeter, dynamic perimeter, etc. are found more significant.

To date, although studies about dynamic drape behaviours of the fabrics claimed that dynamic drape gives more realistic results for in wearer experience, few of them focused on the rotation speed of dynamic drape tester for real-time usage. As dynamic drape behaviours of fabrics may differ for different rotation speed, determining appropriate speed in accordance with real-time usage gives more realistic results.

The use of nonwoven fabrics in garment has been, up to now, purely functional and hidden from view. In fact, their uses have been limited to garment interlining in the apparel industry. Felted structures from wool have been limited to the craft market for the production of art and craft objects of decoration. This paper aims to compare the mechanical and thermo-physical comfort properties of a woven wool, a felted wool fabric, a felted wool/polyester and two non-woven synthetic fabrics for apparel use.

Fabric samples were sourced locally. Five fabric samples were selected: one woolen woven, one felted woven, one polyester/wool non-woven and two non-woven synthetic fabrics. The wool fabric was felted by mechanical action using the Wascator FOM 71P machine. All fabric samples were conditioned before they were tested for their mechanical and thermal comfort properties as per standard test methods.

The comparative study of the mechanical and thermal properties of the five fabric samples have been successfully investigated as textile materials for commercial garments. In terms of fabric stiffness, drape and handle, the two non-woven synthetic fabrics were, in general, poorer than the woven wool and the felted woven wool fabrics. The synthetic non-woven fabrics also performed poorly in terms of serviceability. But it was found that the nonwoven synthetic fabrics were best suited when thermal insulation is required and were found to be better than the woven felted wool fabric of comparative weight per unit area.

The value of this study is that it demonstrates the scope of felted woolen structures and other synthetic nonwovens fabrics as usable materials, in part or in full, in the development of apparel for winter wear especially in cold environments and where aesthetic appeal is secondary.

In this study, which is divided into two parts, the silicone softeners having different properties and including different additives as glycerin, polyethylene glycol 400 (PEG 400) and polyethylene glycol 4000 (PEG 4000) (due to their high hydrophilic characters) are produced for the purpose of providing or developing the hydrophilic character, lubricity and filling properties of the emulsions. The paper aims to discuss this issue.

In the first part of the study, the produced silicone emulsions were characterized and applied to the 100 percent cotton-knitted fabrics. In addition, the mechanical properties and whiteness degrees of the fabrics were also researched. In this part of the study, the effects of the produced silicone softeners on the comfort properties of the fabric samples were investigated by qualitative handle, hydrophility, contact angle, air permeability, thermal comfort and moisture management tests.

The results showed that while classic silicone application improved mechanical comfort properties of the samples such as the handle and drape properties, they worsened other thermal comfort properties as hydrophility, transfer or dispersion of the moisture, and air permeability. In addition, the thermal comfort properties about heat transfer of the fabric samples were not significantly affected by application of the silicone softeners. All results were affected from the producing recipe of the silicone softeners, and generally the usage of the additives had positive effect on the comfort results depending on the producing recipe (especially type of the silicone oil) of the silicone softeners.

In this study, the additives were used in single form; however, their dual or trio combinations and/or their different amounts can be used in the emulsions.

In order to enhance the hydrophilic character, lubricity and filling properties of the silicone softeners, they could be produced by using appropriate additives.

In the literature, there were not any studies about the silicone softeners including different additives. So the authors can say that the contribution of the additives to the recipes of the silicone softeners is a novel approach.

Application of appropriate shading device strategies in buildings can reduce direct solar heat gain through windows as well as optimize cooling and artificial lighting load. This study investigates the impact of common shading devices such as overhangs, fins, horizontal blinds, vertical blinds and drapes on energy consumption of an office building and suggests energy efficient shading device strategies in the contexts of unique Bangladeshi subtropical monsoon climate.

This research was performed through the energy simulation perspective of a prototype office building using a validated building energy simulation tool eQUEST. Around 100 simulation patterns were created considering various types of shading devices and building orientations. The simulation results were analysed comprehensively to find out energy-efficient shading device strategies.

Optimum overhang and fin height is equal to half of the window height in the context of the subtropical climate of Bangladesh. South and West are the most vulnerable orientations, and application of shading devices on these two orientations shows the highest reduction of cooling load and the lowest increment of lighting load. An existing building was able to save approximately 7.05% annual energy consumption by applying the shading device strategies that were suggested by this study.

The shading device strategies of this study can be incorporated into the Bangladesh National Building Code (BNBC) as new energy-efficient building design strategies because the BNBC does not have any codes or regulations regarding energy-efficient shading device. It can also be used as energy-efficient shading device strategies to other Southeast Asian countries with similar climatic contexts of Bangladesh.

The purpose of this paper is to find the optimal rotary motion conditions to create drapes in fabric to visually convey tactile “softness/hardness” and identify key physical factors in visual evaluations of fabric “softness/hardness” via videos of fabric draping.

Subjects evaluated visually and by touch, the “softness/hardness” of fabrics draped over a cylinder. In the visual evaluation experiment, subjects were presented with 16 videos of the movement of fabric drapes when the cylinder was rotated (four rotation speeds and four angular acceleration rates) and they evaluated the “softness/hardness” of each fabric visually. By examining the “softness/hardness” ratings in the two experiments, the optimal rotary motion condition that conveyed fabric “softness/hardness” was identified. Changes in the shape of fabric drape when moving under optimal rotary motion conditions were analyzed to determine key physical factors that affected visual evaluations of fabric “softness/hardness.”

Optimal rotary motion conditions (rotation speed and angular acceleration rate) that expressed each fabric’s “softness/hardness” appropriately were identified. Additionally, the magnitude of change in the angle of fabric drape when rotating under optimal rotary motion conditions was the key factor used in visual evaluation of each fabric’s “softness/hardness.”

The conditions needed to produce visual images that convey fabric “softness/hardness” only through visual information (i.e. without touching the fabric) were identified, based on the fabric’s bending rigidity. The magnitude of change in the angle of fabric drape enabled accurate visual judgments of fabric “softness/hardness.”