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Drape of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. When two‐dimensional fabrics are converted to three‐dimensional garment forms, a number of operations are required which affect drape behaviour of the fabric while present in garment form. In the present study, the effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics is investigated.Design/methodology/approach – The effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics is investigated. Comparisons were also made between different stitches (chain stitch and lock stitch), different seams for lock stitch and different types of interlinings for their effect on drape behaviour of fabrics. In addition to drape coefficient and number of folds, a new drape parameter – average amplitude to average radius (A/r) ratio – was also defined and calculated for drape image geometry.Findings – Drape coefficient has a good to strong correlation with A/r ratio and number of folds for most of the shell, sewn and interlining fused fabrics except for a few cases. A/r defines image in a more descriptive manner than drape coefficient. Drape coefficient changes with the types of seams and stitches used, as well as with the interlining used.Originality/value – This paper provides information on the effects of sewing (seams and stitch types) and fused interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics.

Drape is a property that affects the aesthetic appeal and functionality of materials used for clothing manufacture. When various cut components of apparel are assembled together, the drape behavior of the final garment could be affected compared to the base fabric. Goat suede leathers are widely used for making apparels. The purpose of this paper is to analyse the effect of sewing on the drape characteristics of goat suede leather.

For this study commercially available goat suede leathers of Indian origin from five different firms were used. The bending length, drape coefficient and number of nodes were measured for goat suede leathers with different stitch and seam values and compared with the same measurements taken in plain leather. For bending length measurement, plain, single stitched and seamed samples were prepared. For drape coefficient measurement, plain, radially stitched and seamed namely half circle and quarter circle samples were prepared.

The introduction of seam (0.5 and 1 cm allowance) on the goat suede leathers increases the bending length significantly thereby reducing the drape ability but the influence of single stitch on the bending length is negligible. On contrary, there is a significant increase in drape coefficient values for simple radial stitched as well as for seamed samples. The number of nodes generated reduced marginally upon the introduction of stitch or seam.

The paper provides the information on the effect of sewing on the drape characteristics of goat suede apparel leathers. This is the first of its kind study on leather as clothing material.

Fabric drape is an important parameter for the aesthetic appearance of fabrics. It can be measured using Cusick's drape meter, where the drape coefficent is obtained with a laborious cut‐and‐weigh method. Presents a method using image analysis for measuring the drape coefficient. With this method, time dependence of the drape coefficient is investigated, and is expressed in a model. Using this model, the drape coefficient obtained with the cut‐and‐weigh method can be calculated.

The purpose of this paper is to analyse dynamic drape behaviours of 100% wool woven suiting fabrics considering real-time usage.

Dynamic drape coefficients of 100% wool woven fabrics were measured at different rotation speeds (25, 75, 125 and 175 rpm) with a commercially used fabric drape tester which works on image processing principle. Average daily walking speed of male and female volunteers was determined and the closest rotation speed was selected to calculate dynamic drape coefficient at walking (DDCw). Besides, bending rigidity and shear deformation properties, which are known to be related to the static drape behaviours of the fabrics, were also measured and the relationships between these parameters and DDCw were examined.

As a result of the experimental study, it was found that dynamic drape coefficients become greater, which means the fabrics take flatter position, with the increase of the rotation speed. In addition, it was also seen that parameters known to be related to static drape behaviours such as unit weight and bending stiffness have less effect on the dynamic drapes of fabrics. For the estimation of dynamic drape behaviour of fabrics, parameters such as static perimeter, dynamic perimeter, etc. are found more significant.

To date, although studies about dynamic drape behaviours of the fabrics claimed that dynamic drape gives more realistic results for in wearer experience, few of them focused on the rotation speed of dynamic drape tester for real-time usage. As dynamic drape behaviours of fabrics may differ for different rotation speed, determining appropriate speed in accordance with real-time usage gives more realistic results.

The aim of this contribution is to answer the question if and how mechanical fabric parameters being components of a formability coefficient as well as mechanical parameters being components of fabric handle influence the fabric drape. Therefore, all these parameters were measured for ten fabrics and correlated with the drape coefficient.

The purpose of this study is to explore the effect of stitch type and stitch direction on the dynamic drape behavior of the woven fabric.

In this paper, the effectiveness of stitch type and stitch directions on dynamic drape behaviors were investigated. Fabric parts were sewn together with two types of the stitch (lockstitch and overlock stitch) on three different stitch directions (warp, weft and bias (45°)). The static drape coefficients (SDC) of unsewn and sewn fabrics were measured according to the image process method. Dynamic drape coefficients (DDC) of fabrics were also measured using the same method at six different (25, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150 rpms) rotation speeds. Additionally, bending length and bending rigidity were measured using the Cantilever test method.

Experimental results showed that stitch type and stitch directions are effective on the dynamic drape behaviors of the fabric. Overlock stitch resulted in greater DDC than the lock stitch. For both of the stitch type, DDC for the stitch on the warp direction are greater than the stitch on the weft and bias direction for all speeds. In addition, bending length, hence the bending rigidity, are greater for overlock stitch type and always weft direction resulted in greater than the warp and bias direction.

Fabric drape is vital for garment appearance and is gaining popularity with the advancement of virtual technology, enabling virtual visualization of garments. While previous studies have predominantly examined either the static or dynamic drape behavior of individual fabric panels, or solely focused on the static drape behavior of sewn fabrics, this study acknowledges the significance of incorporating the influence of stitch type and direction on dynamic drape behaviors. Considering that fabrics are sewn together to create garments and that DDC provides a more accurate representation of real-time fabric behavior compared to SDC, this research makes a valuable contribution to the existing literature by investigating the impact of stitch type and direction specifically on DDC.

Undesirable effect of asymmetric drape often occurs when cutting patterns of flared skirt on cross. Out of this reason garment seams twist toward the front or back or folds form different shapes on each side of the garment and this lowers garment aesthetic appearance. The new measuring procedure for asymmetric skirt drape near the side seam, based on bottom traces geometry, was developed in this paper. The experiment with four‐gored skirts of six lightweight fabrics was made. It was found that asymmetric drape depends on combination of grain lines directions of front and back panels of a skirt. There were made general conclusions relating skirt asymmetric drape with various fabric characteristics, such as bending rigidity, extensibility, shear rigidity, fabric weight and drape coefficient in this article. According to developed measuring procedure a final objective evaluation of skirt asymmetric drape rate will be done further.

Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than one direction with double curvature. For many years, researchers studied fabric drape in order to evaluate the aesthetic performance of finished garments. However, the behaviour of fabric drape may not be same as the behaviour of garment drape stand on the same object by visually observation. Such difference would affect the prediction of garment drape based on fabric drape. At present, the study of the difference between the behaviour of fabric drape and garment drape is very limited. This study aims to examine the difference of the behaviour of fabric drape and garment drape through drape coefficient analysis and drape profile analysis. The effects of fabric mechanical properties on fabric drape and garment drape are also investigated experimentally. The outcomes of this study can improve apparel design and fabric end-use applications, and it also contributes to improve the prediction of garment drape for the apparel CAD system.

This paper discusses the concept of virtual measurement in textiles and describes the development of a virtual 3D fabric drape measurement system. In this system, a physical based model is used to predict the draping performance, static and dynamic drape of a given fabric sample. Fabric mechanical properties are used for simulating the virtual 3D shape of the fabric samples, which produce a time‐variable deformation of the virtual fabric drape. The 3D fabric drape can be observed under any view angle. An algorithm is developed, applied and integrated into the system for carrying out virtual fabric drape measurements in order to evaluate the drapeability of a given fabric. Important fabric aesthetic attributes such as number of fabric folds, fold variation and depth of fold are presented and implemented together with the drape co‐efficient.

The purpose of this paper is to analyse dynamic drape behaviour of eight different types of woollen fabrics each treated by three different finishing processes.

A new apparatus was used to evaluate the dynamic drape formation process of woollen fabrics during the rotation of the samples at different speed grades of 0 (static drape), 30, 60, 90, 120, 150 and 180 rev/min for each sample. The computerised image analysis method was used to measure the drape coefficients (DCs).

As a result of experiments, it was found that shearing, calendaring, pressing processes affected the drapability and drape behaviour negatively, but belt pressing treatment and decatising process improved the drapability and the drape behaviour for all fabrics. Furthermore, there is a reverse relationship between fabric weight and drape behaviour. As the fabric weight increases, DC value increases due to the increase of fabric tightness.

To date, although many researchers have studied the static draping behaviour, the studies regarding the dynamic drape behaviour of the fabrics are quite limited to an extent. Besides, none of these studies regarding the drape behaviour have investigated the effects of different finishing processes on the drape behaviour of wool fabrics.