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An approach for discharge printing of cationised linen fabric has been examined. Accordingly, cationic sites are first added to the fibers via a pretreatment with different aliphatic quaternary ammonium salts. Then, the cationised linen fabric samples are printed by using two different styles. First, a direct dyeing process is represented in dry transfer printing by using disperse dyes. Then, the fabric is subjected to either white or colour discharge printing by using reactive dyes. Excellent white index and colour strength values are obtained for the discharge printed cationised linen fabric.

This paper aims to investigate the feasibility of potassium permanganate (KMnO₄) as an efficient discharging agent for indigo-dyed denim fabrics and identification of key variables for its cost-efficient implication.

Response surface methodology, which is a statistical technique for the optimization of process variables, was used to study the effect of three key variables, i.e. KMnO₄ concentration, printing paste pH and reaction time on whiteness and strength of discharged printed fabric. Regression models were developed to predict response variables, i.e whiteness, tensile strength and tear strength of discharge printed denim.

It was found that some captivating discharge printing effects could be produced using appropriate KMnO₄ concentration, printing paste pH and reaction time without any significant loss in the fabric strength.

This study highlights the practical implication of KMnO₄ to be used as a safe and effective discharging agent under different conditions and to optimize the parameters using statistical analysis to ensure minimum loss in textile properties. The use of denim has evolved over the decades from a rough and tough workwear to highly fashionable apparel. Various dry and wet processing techniques have been introduced in recent years for the value-addition of denim – discharge printing is one of them. As lab to bulk reproducibility requires some sort of experience and adjustments in main parameters, the practical feasibility on the bulk scale should be adjusted in advance by means of the lab scale experimentation.

The KMnO₄ oxidation process is considered eco-friendly because manganese dioxide, which is formed when permanganate is reduced, can be recycled. Thus, the use of KMnO₄ can be considered as an eco-friendly safe process for the discharging of indigo dyes.

This paper aims to develop and then evaluate a novel consolidation and powder transfer mechanism for electrophotographic 3D printing, designed to overcome two longstanding limitations of electrophotographic 3D printing: fringing and a build height limitation.

Analysis of the electric field generated within electrophotographic printing was used to identify the underlying causes of the fringing and build height limitations. A prototype machine was then designed and manufactured to overcome these limitations, and a number of print runs were carried out as proof of concept studies.

The analysis suggested that a machine design which separated the electrostatic powder deposition of the print engine from the layer transfer and consolidation steps is required to overcome fringing and build height limitations. A machine with this build architecture was developed and proof of concept studies showed that the build height and fringing effects were no longer evident.

Electrophotography (EP) was initially seen as a promising technology for 3D printing, largely because the potential for multi-material printing at high speed. As these limitations can now be overcome, there is still potential for EP to deliver a high-speed 3D printing system which can build parts consisting of multiple materials.

The analysis of EP, the new method for the transfer and consolidation of layers and the proof of concept study are all original and provide new information on how EP can be adopted for 3D printing.

The term luxury and sustainability, within the fashion and textile industries are seldom seen as natural bedfellows. Recently however, the perception of luxury has begun to include a definition left behind in the twentieth century; beautifully hand crafted artefacts valued for the time, skill and design invested in them. It is possible though, for the concept of luxury textiles to embrace this definition and that of the sustainable credentials of a “Cradle to Cradle” (McDonough and Braungart, 2002) mindset (that of a life beyond original creation) and be fashionable. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

Utilising a variety of methodologies including case studies, reflective practice and a practice-based approach; this paper examines the use of pre-consumer waste in the creation of new luxury textiles. Several projects are cited, offering examples of collaboration between textile mills and designers in the creation of new fabrics made from luxury by-products. This luxury waste is routinely shredded for automobile seat filling or landfill, however current sustainable thinking encourages a more creative solution to this circumstance. Designers have a crucial role to play in converting an unwanted by-product to one that is highly desirable.

Traditional values of what constitutes a luxury item include the concept of time invested in making a unique handmade artefact. More recently, this premise has been overlooked in favour of branded goods. The slow fashion movement advocates the inherent value of craftsmanship coupled with the ethical use of sustainable and or local materials and processes. The traditional techniques of felting, weave and stitch are utilised to create beautiful, original textiles from discarded waste. By collaborating with local mills, designers provide solutions to something that could be perceived as a problem.

The embedded narrative within these layered textiles provides an original quality and added value, building on their Scottish heritage. The resulting textiles reflect their provenance; the landscape they come from and the people who created them. As a result of purchase, the story continues with the new custodian, adding to the ongoing history of the textile. The design work and collaboration that this paper outlines embodies a transferable model for sustainable upcycled luxury textiles.

The manual loans system previously in use at Loughborough is described and the reasons behind automation are examined. In looking at the requirements of an automated system a trapping store is found to be essential to maintain the standard of reader service if an off‐line system is to be used. The Plessey Library Pen equipment is described, followed by details of the programs making up the new system. There is an account of the change‐over period from the old to the new system and the manual processes involved in working the system are explained.

To meet the ever increasing quality standard set by the manufacturers of multilayer printed circuit boards, IMASA, in association with Enthone Inc. USA, has further developed the Enplate MLB permanganate etch back system to improve the hole quality of a multilayer printed circuit board. To enable manufacturers to utilise this improvement using existing equipment, Short Line Chemistry was developed.

The purpose of this study is to successfully apply ultrasonic waves for the quick extraction of flax seed gum from flaxseed hull or whole seed and compare it to the standard technique of extraction.

The effect of the heating source, extracted time, temperature and pH of extracted solution on the extraction was studied. The obtained gum is subsequently used for silk screen printing on cotton, linen and viscous fabrics. Rheological properties and viscosity of the printing paste were scrutinized in the current study to get a better insight into this important polysaccharide. The output of this effort aimed to specify the parameters of the processes for printing textiles to serve in women’s fashion clothes by applying innovated handmade combinations of Islamic art motives using a quick and affordable method. Seven designs are executed, and inspiring from them, seven fashion designs of ladies’ clothes were designed virtually by Clo 3D software.

The result recorded that the new gum has excellent printing properties. In addition, they have better rheological properties, viscosity, chromatic strength and fastness qualities, all of which could help them in commercial production.

Flaxseed and three different fabric types (Cotton, Linen and Viscous) were used.

Synthesis of a new biodegradable thickener from a natural resource, namely, flaxseed, by applying new technology to save time, water and energy.

Synthesis of eco-friendly biodegradable thickener and used in textile printing alternative to the synthetic thickener.

Marketing.

The case is aimed at Business Administration students.

Udaipur based Aavaran – the echos of rural India – is a concept by COS-V, a leading non-governmental organization (NGO), which aims at connecting the tribal women of rural India with the mainstream. The NGO, set up in 1988 by Smt. Girija Vyas, was initially involved in imparting vocational training to the rural poor. Later, COS-V was taken up by Alka Sharma, a graduate from the Indian Institute of Crafts and Design, Jaipur, who completely changed the direction of the NGO. Her interest in textiles and crafts led to the genesis of the concept “Aavaran”. Aavaran is a retail outlet which was opened with a vision to provide the Indian market with traditional yet contemporary textiles and clothing. It offers a collection of women's and children's clothing and home textiles using a variety of traditional textiles and crafts. It is an artisan driven concept where the supply chain incorporates the essence of Indian textiles and crafts at every level. From the dyeing, printing, sampling and assembly of garments everything is done by the local women trained by COS-V with the support of DC-Handicrafts. The raw materials – the textiles, grey fabrics, etc. – are sourced directly from the rural weavers and artisans across India. The case study discusses how Aavaran developed the unique positioning of a retail platform for contemporary products made from traditional techniques, skills and hand-based processes; how it could revive the diminishing arts of Dabu and Phetia and how it carved a niche through its channelized marketing efforts.

The case will familiarize management students with the concept of niche marketing with Udaipur based firm Aavaran as an example which developed a unique positioning through its traditionally developed products. It will also acquaint students with a basic understanding of a supply chain with a cooperative firm in focus.

Teaching notes are available for educators only. Please contact your library to gain login details or email support@emeraldinsight.com to request teaching notes.

To present an update and the latest results from work on a project aimed at enabling printed circuit board (PCB) manufacturing to become more sustainable.

Various individual treatment technologies were studied individually under laboratory conditions and then combined into a pilot‐scale demonstrator line that was used to process effluent from a nickel‐gold plating line in a PCB production environment.

The use of these novel processes, including special electroplating techniques, advanced oxidation methods and a new ion exchange system can be combined to give a more sustainable treatment process for effluent emanating from PCB manufacturing. The approach also generates high quality pure water that can be recycled and reused in the manufacturing process.

The combined technology has been demonstrated with a nickel‐gold plating line. Further development work should be undertaken to tailor the technology for other parts of the PCB manufacturing process.

The paper details how individual treatment technologies can be combined to enable a much more sustainable approach to PCB manufacturing which offers the benefits of reduced effluent levels and a source of high purity recycled water.