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Article
Publication date: 17 April 2024

Quratulain Mohtashim, Salma Farooq and Fareha Asim

The application of indigo dyes in the denim industries has been criticised due to the introduction of non-renewable oxidation products into the environment. Previous studies have…

Abstract

Purpose

The application of indigo dyes in the denim industries has been criticised due to the introduction of non-renewable oxidation products into the environment. Previous studies have investigated that reducing sugars can be used as green alternatives to sodium dithionite in the indigo dyeing of cotton fabric owing to their reduced and stable redox potential in the dye bath. The purpose of this study was to dye denim cotton fabric with indigo dye using various reducing sugars and alkalis. The use of sucrose and potassium hydroxide (KOH) for indigo dyeing has been explored for the first time.

Design/methodology/approach

A mixed factorial design with four variables including alkali, pH, number of dips and type of reducing sugar at different levels was studied to identify a significant correlation between the effect of these variables on the colour strength and fastness properties of the dyeings.

Findings

Investigations were made to examine the significant factors and interactions of the selected responses in the eco-friendly dyeing method. This process has the potential to reduce the load of sulphite and sulphate generated in the dyebath due to the use of a conventional reducing agent, sodium dithionite. The colour strength of the dyeing reduced with fructose was found to be better than other reducing sugars and significantly influenced by the number of dips, pH levels and the interaction between pH and reducing sugars. Using fructose for indigo dyeing with two dips at a pH of 11.5, using KOH as an alkali, results in higher colour strength values. The fastness properties of the indigo-dyed sample with reducing sugars ranging from fair to good or good to excellent. Specifically, colour change receives a rating of grey scale 3–4, staining 4–5, dry rubbing 4 and light fastness 3–4. These assessments hold true across various factors such as the type of reducing sugar, alkali, pH and the number of dips. The optimised parameters leading to improved colour strength and fastness properties are also discussed.

Originality/value

This dyeing technique is novel and a green alternative to dithionite denim dyeing. This process is found to be useful for indigo dyeing of denim fabric leading to reduced and stable redox potential in the dyebath and acceptable colour strength of the dyed fabric.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 April 2024

Syed Shah Shah Alam, Taslima Jannat, Chieh Yu Lin, Nor Asiah Omar and Yi Hui Ho

The purpose of this study is to examine the factors that affect managers’ ethical decision-making in export-oriented readymade garments in Bangladesh.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to examine the factors that affect managers’ ethical decision-making in export-oriented readymade garments in Bangladesh.

Design/methodology/approach

This is an empirical study based on the quantitative approach undertaking a cross-sectional survey method where a convenience sampling technique was applied. The analysis was done using partial least square structural equation model applying Smart-PLS version 3.0.

Findings

This study confirmed that all the components of cognitive appraisal processes, including perceived severity, perceived vulnerability, response efficacy and self-efficacy, have a significant influence on attitude. Attitude, in turn, mediates the relationship between these variables and the behavioural intention of ethical practice, except for perceived vulnerability. Besides, moral obligation is found to mediate the relationship between attitude, self-efficacy and the behavioural intention of ethical decision-making. The study also found that ethical climate and subjective norms have a direct influence on behavioural intention. Furthermore, behavioural intention, ethical climate and self-efficacy are positively related to actual decision-making behaviour. However, this study did not find any direct effect of subjective norms on moral obligation.

Practical implications

The organization should include an emphasis on building ethical culture and setting an ethical code of conduct within the organization to sustain ethical practice within employees. However, the practitioner should work on enhancing self-efficacy to curb unethical practices by individuals.

Originality/value

This research contributes to the management of garments manufacturers by a practical and theoretical understanding of what influences the ethical behavioural decision-making process. Valuable guidelines are provided on the ethical decision-making process in the garments manufacturing companies for future researchers.

Details

International Journal of Ethics and Systems, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2514-9369

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 24 April 2024

Yuhong Li, Hang Gao and Xiaokun Yu

This study aims to increase the novelty of clothing design and fabric texture. The element library that can be used for design is systematically summarized. The element database…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to increase the novelty of clothing design and fabric texture. The element library that can be used for design is systematically summarized. The element database can also be continuously filled according to the existing logic to realize the diversity of design. Improve the theory of fashion design, expand the designer's design ideas and improve design efficiency. Clear design steps and logic can help students and machines learn the design process and promote the development of intelligent design. And verify the feasibility of the simulation software to assist pleated clothing design.

Design/methodology/approach

Firstly, according to the logical framework of origami theory, different innovative designs and combined designs are made for the basic units of hyperbolic paraboloid, and the element library that can be used for design is systematically summarized. This database can also be continuously filled according to the existing logic to realize the diversity of design. Secondly, it summarizes three methods of pleated element filling clothing – uniform filling method, the irregular filling method and geometric addition method – that improve the theory of fashion design, expand the designer's design ideas and improve design efficiency. Clear design steps and logic can help students and machines learn the design process and promote the development of intelligent design. Finally, the virtual software is used to simulate the effect of pleated clothing, and the three-dimensional simulation software 3dclo is used to make an empirical study on the application of hyperbolic paraboloid origami in clothing pleated design to verify the feasibility of the simulation software to assist pleated clothing design.

Findings

The theoretical results of hyperbolic paraboloid origami are collected and arranged to establish the element library of hyperbolic paraboloid origami. The results expand the designer's design ideas and auxiliary design technology and improve the design efficiency using a sample of hyperbolic paraboloid fabric to verify its practicability and three-dimensional clothing simulation software for exploring the design. The design rules of hyperbolic paraboloid clothing and the realization method of fabric are summarized, including the expansion and combing of elements, the application of size and shape and the method of combination.

Research limitations/implications

Owing to the hyperbolic paraboloid origami’s length shrinkage, the loose computation of clothing requires targeted computation. This paper solely applies a paper model for estimating the shrinkage, and then we tend to subsequently explore the way to precisely compute the porosity, to determine the existing differences in the two-dimensional shrinkage of hyperbolic paraboloid creases of varying materials and to know if the clothing after large-scale production is capable of reaching the anticipated value.

Practical implications

The exploration of this experiment brings a new 3D experiment process to the design process.

Social implications

This experiment brings new possibilities for the development of virtual fitting and virtual display in the industry.

Originality/value

This study combines hyperbolic paraboloid origami and clothing and combs and expands the unit with logical thinking to expand the designer's design ideas.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 6 May 2024

Bushra Zulfiqar, Muhammad Arshad Mehmood, Akmal Shahzad Butt and Anum Shafique

This study aims to study the impact of corporate governance (CG) versus ethical investment on the firm performance. It takes into account the firms of Bangladesh, India, and…

Abstract

This study aims to study the impact of corporate governance (CG) versus ethical investment on the firm performance. It takes into account the firms of Bangladesh, India, and Pakistan for the purpose of the study. A composite variable of CG index and environmental, social, and governance (ESG) index is used to test the impact on the firm performance. Separate country wise and overall analysis is obtained. Regression analysis is used to obtain the results. Two measures of performance are used, one is return on assets (ROA) and other is Tobin Q. The findings of the study reveal that there is an impact of corporate governance index (CGI) on firm performance (overall and country wise) whereas ethical investment (EI) has an impact on firm performance when tested overall and no impact when checked for country wise results. The results further show that on country level, increase in CG measures may lead to positive results, but at the macro level, it may lower the performance. On the other hand, at the micro level, ethical finance may not show its impact; however, at the macro level, it has an impact. The study has implications for the investors and policymakers.

Details

The Emerald Handbook of Ethical Finance and Corporate Social Responsibility
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-80455-406-7

Keywords

Case study
Publication date: 27 September 2023

Rashmi Aggarwal, Harsahib Singh and Vinita Krishna

The case is written on the basis of published sources only.

Abstract

Research methodology

The case is written on the basis of published sources only.

Case overview/synopsis

Doodlage, a start-up incorporated in 2012 by Kriti Tula, Paras Arora and Vaibhav Kapoor, used discarded waste to create sustainable fashion products. It had a first-mover advantage in recycled fashion goods in the first 10 years of its existence. The company contributed to sustainable fashion by providing an alternative to fast fashion production, creating enormous clothing waste and environmental degradation. In the first quarter of 2022, it saved and reused 15,000 m of fabric waste. From 2018 to 2021, the company grew 150% annually, targeting the right customers and regions to expand its business. It ensured that postproduction industrial waste and postconsumption garments were used to produce clothes. It also confirmed that the waste generated in its fabric screening process was used to create stationery items and other valuable accessories.

However, the sustainable fashion model that gave the company a competitive advantage became obsolete in 2022 due to increasing competition in the industry as various players using unique ideas entered the market. The company is encountering operational and logistical challenges that are affecting its performance. The demand for its products was also subdued due to high prices of upcycled and recycled clothes and less consumer spending post-COVID pandemic. The competitors of Doodlage offered multiple products produced using environmentally friendly farming and manufacturing techniques, attracting sustainable purchasers. What should be the new portfolio of products for the company to explore future growth opportunities? Considering their vast price, can consumers be encouraged to buy upcycled clothes? How should the company ride the winds of change in the industry?

Complexity academic level

The instructor should initiate the class discussion by asking questions such as how frequently do you shop for clothes? Do you care about the fabric of your apparel? After you discard your clothes, do you think about where these goods finally end up? Data on the amount of total waste generated in the fashion industry should be communicated to students to connect it with the importance of the concept of circular economy. Post this, the instructor should introduce the business model of Doodlage to bring the discussion into the context of the fashion industry before going ahead to discuss the company’s dilemma.

Details

The CASE Journal, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Case Study
ISSN: 1544-9106

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 March 2024

Rıza Atav and Özge Çolakoğlu

The purpose of this study is to determine the effect of laser treatment on disperse dye-uptake and fastness values of polyester fabrics. Furthermore, it was aimed to evaluate…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to determine the effect of laser treatment on disperse dye-uptake and fastness values of polyester fabrics. Furthermore, it was aimed to evaluate colors directly over the photos of fabric samples instead of color measuring with spectrophotometer which is thought to be useful in terms of online digital color assessment.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, 100% polyester (150 denier) single jersey knitted fabrics (weight: 145 g/m2, course density: 15 loops/cm, wale density: 24 loops/cm) were used in the trials. The effect of laser treatments before and after dyeing on color was investigated. Laser treatments were applied to fabrics at different resolutions (20, 25 and 30 dpi) and pixel times (60, 80 and 100 µs) before dyeing. The power of the laser beam was 210 W and the wavelength was 10.6 µm. In order to determine the effect of laser treatment on polyester; FTIR analysis, SEM-EDX analysis and bursting strength tests were applied to untreated and treated fabric samples.

Findings

It was found that treatments with laser have a significant effect on disperse dye-uptake of polyester fibers, and for this reason laser-treated fabrics were dyed in darker shade. Furthermore, it was determined that the samples treated at 30 dpi started to melt and the fabric was damaged considerably, but the fabrics treated at 20 and 25 dpi were not affected at all. Another result obtained regarding the use of laser technology in polyester fabrics is that if some areas of fabrics are not treated with laser and some other areas are treated with laser at 20 dpi 60 µs and 25 dpi 60 µs, it will be possible to obtain patterns containing three different shades of the same color on the fabric.

Originality/value

When the literature is examined, it is seen that there are various studies on the dyeability and patterning of polyester fabrics with disperse dyes by laser technology. As it is known, today color measurement is done digitally using a spectrophotometer. However, when we look at a photograph on computer screens, the colors we see are defined by RGB (red-green-blue) values, while in the spectrophotometer they are defined by L*a*b* (L*: lightness-darkness, a*: redness-greenness, b*: yellowness-blueness) values. Especially when it is desired to produce various design products by creating patterns with laser technology, it would be more useful to show the color directly to the customer on the computer screen and to be able to speak over the same values on the color. For this reason, in this study, the color measurement of the fabric samples was not made with a spectrophotometer, instead, the RGB values obtained from the photographs of the samples were converted into L*a*b* values with MATLAB and interpreted, that is, a digital color evaluation was made on the photographs. Therefore, it is believed that this study will contribute to the literature.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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