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Based on the knowledge of professional pattern makers, this paper aims to propose an expert‐based automation technique of darts generation by aligning and drawing close meshes in basic pattern in Part I. Single dart development, such as waist‐fitting dart, shoulder dart, armscye dart, side dart, and their select combination are also presented.

In this paper, 3D garment surface is first approximated by a finite number of meshes. Patterns are developed by aligning and rotating of the flattened meshes under the constraint of overlay avoidance. The envelop areas between the developed patterns and the curved surface are dramatically reduced from 5 percent of basic pattern to below 3 percent after darts development.

The development patterns are varied in their association with the subject's body figures and the designed garment. Darts in a different location can reduce the total area difference between the flattening undevelopable surface and the original curved surface.

At the present stage the pattern development method cannot guarantee the uniqueness of pattern outline. Moreover, the pattern maker's knowledge inputs in this paper can only apply to the subject whose waist girth is less than hip girth in circumference.

The embedded pattern maker knowledge provides certain rules for pattern development from 3D design. Moreover, it is practical to be used and exported to modern 2D pattern software for further editing and revision. The same person is also used as a model after the patterns have been sewn into clothes.

The finite element analysis capabilities of DART and the design routines for the computerized design in accordance with CP 110 and BS 5337 are briefly described. The DART program is used to compare some reservoir roof systems including a novel floated dome. Temperature effects on reservoirs can appear to yield severe stresses, but do they? The DART program is used for the design of non‐axisymmetric loaded structures and examples are given of wind loads on water towers and chimneys. A simple procedure has been incorporated into DART to allow for soil—structure interaction. The DART program can print out reinforcing or prestressing requirements. An elementary cost study has been made on reservoir walls to compare the relevant merits of the two methods of design. A facility has been incorporated into the DART program to find the optimum shape of reservoirs and water towers for a given set of construction costs. The Dynamic Programming method has been used for this purpose. Natural frequencies and mode shapes can be determined by the DART program using the Sturm sequence property and inverse iteration respectively.

The purpose of this paper is to find the pattern with minimal deformation energy while developing from 3D designed garments. Moreover, darts are generated to further reduce deformation energy. The aims of the energy-based flattening method are to reduce the difference between 3D designed garments and 2D flattened patterns in an accurate and efficient way.

This study uses a mass spring method and iterative optimization to analyze pattern contours with minimal contour deformation while flattening three dimensional draping designs into a plane. Darts are generated to further reduce distortion during surface flattening and the energy method is introduced to verify that the analysis results obtained match the garment darts provided by the Bunka formula which is currently widely used in East Asia.

An efficient method for generating optimal darted pattern is presented. It compares the important factors of darts, including position, length and amount. After iterative optimization and darts generation, the maximum energy reduction is about 30 percent.

This study provides an aggregate to analyze and compare the differences between different patterns and conduct a verification comparison with traditional pattern formula.

The authors investigate the effects of four basic bodice pattern shapes and developing methods on the appearances of ladies' fitted bodice design. The authors also clarify the preferred appearance among the four ladies' fitted bodice design as reported by Japanese university students and propose a pattern developing method of the preferred bodice design using the four basic bodices.

Targeting a ladies' fitted bodice design with designated dimensions, four ladies' fitted bodices were manufactured using four types of basic bodice pattern and their development methods: BUNKA from Japan, ESMOD from France, ARMSTRONG from the United States, and ALDRICH from the United Kingdom. The appearances of the four fitted bodices were observed and explained in terms of ease and darts. The authors also conducted a sensory test regarding the preferred shirt appearance adopting a semantical difference method, for 15 female Japanese university students in their twenties. The authors propose a pattern developing method to design the preferred fitted bodice shape using different basic bodices considering the amount and allocation of ease and size and allocation of darts to front and back of the bodice.

The appearances of the bodices were different even for the same fitted bodice design depending on the type of basic bodice pattern and its developing method. BUNKA had a slightly constricted silhouette at the waist and ESMOD had a straight silhouette and less constriction. ARMSTRONG had the most constricted silhouette and rounded hips and ALDRICH had a slightly constricted curve from the bust to the hips. The shape differences were strongly related to the amount of ease and the difference in waist darts between front and back of the bodice. The Japanese participants preferred fitted bodices that have a constricted silhouette from front and back views. From the side view, a straight line at the front and a constricted shape and emphasized hip at the back silhouette were preferred. By adjusting the allocations of ease and waist darts to front and back of the bodice, it was possible to design the preferred fitted bodice shape even with different basic pattern.

It was found that the basic bodice pattern and developing method affect the final clothing. It is necessary to adjust the allocation of ease and darts to front and back of the bodice to construct clothing using different patternmaking methods. It was shown that it is more important to consider the patternmaking method than to select a suitable basic bodice pattern. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of allocation and amount of ease and the allocation and size of waist darts in both the basic patternmaking method and developing method. This approach is also useful in making an article of clothing with a shape required in other countries.

The aim of this paper is to explore a method of predicting the amount of personalized bra cup dart in the 3D virtual environment for supporting the made‐to‐measure research of the optimum fitted brassiere pattern design.

Very useful enhanced FFD (free‐form‐deformation) techniques used in both computer animation and geometric modeling were skillfully transplanted to the female breast model deformation. Meanwhile, on the basis of 3D scan and surface modeling technologies, the realization approach of the abstract female breast model library focusing on the individual variations of shapes and sizes was presented. Then according to the principle of isometric area and flabellate segments, the personalized bra cup dart quantity and its distributive information were provided by 3D‐2D transformation.

The paper finds that personalized female breast shapes and various aesthetic breast forms sculpted by different bras could be interactively simulated. Accordingly, the amount of corresponding individual bra cup dart and its distributive information were provided. The cup darts were mainly distributed below the bust line. Moreover, dart shapes were curvy.

The principles of virtual breast library construction and 3D‐2D transformation are also suitable for other parts of the human body such as buttocks, abdomen and, etc. for intimate apparel research.

The method of predicting the personalized bra cup dart quantity based on the 3D virtual breast model library was delivered for the first time. The novel findings provided an important guideline for designers to improve the well‐fitted bra pattern design technique. Furthermore, it would reduce the manufacturing cost without keeping physical dummies.

On September 25, 1980, Kraft, Inc., and Dart Industries Inc. merged to form Dart and Kraft. At the time, it was one of the largest mergers in U.S. history.

The purpose of this paper is to validate scale measurements of dialogue, access, risk assessment and transparency (DART) constructs, as the process of value-co-creation, and then understand its effect on innovation strategy. Further, the paper explores the influence of innovation strategy on the market performance.

The model links four dimensions of DART as building blocks of value co-creation, to the innovation strategy. Further, the model links innovation strategy to the market performance. In total, five hypotheses are postulated. Testing was conducted through structural equation modeling using PLS-SEM, utilizing data from 249 managers of telecommunication companies in Malaysia.

The result of the analysis revealed dialogue, risk assessment and transparency having a significant positive relationship with innovation strategy. These results signified the importance of value co-creation to formulate an innovation strategy of the firms. The finding of the research shows that innovation strategy has a strong effect on market performance as well.

Implementing value co-creation process facilitates companies in formulating an innovation strategy that enhances market performance significantly.

The paper validated scale measurement of DART model which adds substantial knowledge and concepts in the areas of value co-creation process. It describes the first empirical research study on the practice of value co-creation and innovation strategy in developing country focusing on telecommunication industry. Further, the model examines the effect of DART dimensions on innovation strategy result in market performance enhancement.

A Description of the Dart R.Da.7 Mk. 531 Turboprop Engine, its Reduction Gear, Fuel System and Propeller Control System. THE power for the Hawker Siddeley 748 Series 2 is provided by the Rolls‐Royce Dart R.Da.7 Mk. 531. This engine which forms the basis of the power plant, has probably more development background than any other turboprop in service today.

The final goal of this study is to virtualize draping. Draping which is one of the methods to design paper patterns for clothing requires much labor and time. The sub-goal of this study is to construct a system in which the fundamental functions of draping are equipped.

The system is realized in the virtual world by integrating the virtualized elements of real draping. The cloth is modeled by mechanical formulation, and the shape is determined by numerical calculation. The hand is geometrically modeled, and the captured motions of the hand and fingers are applied to the model. The model dress form is made from the data by measurement. The system in which darts can be made in the virtual space is constructed by integrating the models.

It is confirmed that the cloth model in the virtual world can be manipulated by the motions of the fingers in the real world. And it is suggested that it is possible to design practical paper patterns for clothing by adding functions to the system.

We are aiming at the system to design paper patterns by the movements of the fingers. With this system, it is expected that the efficiency in designing paper patterns is much improved, and it becomes possible to design clothing that fits individuals efficiently.