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Article
Publication date: 4 April 2023

Aditi Galada and Fatma Baytar

The purpose of the present study was to improve the fit of women’s bifurcated garments by developing an equation that can predict the crotch length accurately by using a few basic…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of the present study was to improve the fit of women’s bifurcated garments by developing an equation that can predict the crotch length accurately by using a few basic body measurements. This equation could provide a simple mass-customization approach to the design of bifurcated garments.

Design/methodology/approach

Demographic characteristics and easy-to-record body measurements available in the size USA database were used to predict the crotch length. Different methodologies including best subset regression, lasso regression and principal components regression were experimented with to identify the most important predictor variables and establish a relationship between the significant predictors and crotch length.

Findings

The lasso regression model provided the highest accuracy, required only five body dimensions and dealt with multicollinearity. The preliminary pattern preparation and garment fit tests indicated that by utilizing the proposed equation, patterns of customized garments could be successfully altered to match the crotch length of the customer, thereby, improving the precision and efficiency of the pattern making process.

Originality/value

Crotch length is a crucial measurement as it determines bifurcated garment comfort as well as aesthetic fit. The crotch length is usually estimated arbitrarily based on non-scientific methods while drafting patterns, and this increases the likelihood of dissatisfaction with the fit of the lower-body garments. The present study suggested an algorithm that could predict crotch length with 90.53% accuracy using the body dimensions height, hips, waist height, knee height and arm length.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 April 2017

Heeran Lee, Kyunghi Hong and Yejin Lee

The seams of slim fit outdoor pants can be uncomfortable or even restrict body movement. To reduce discomfort, the authors need to determine optimal cutting lines in various…

Abstract

Purpose

The seams of slim fit outdoor pants can be uncomfortable or even restrict body movement. To reduce discomfort, the authors need to determine optimal cutting lines in various designs that do not interfere with body movement. The purpose of this paper is to apply skin deformation mapping during movement to the ergonomic design of outdoor pants, focusing in particular on the 2D pattern generation of the crotch area in a 3D shape during movement.

Design/methodology/approach

A 3D shape and skin length deformation of the lower body were observed, including the crotch area, which is difficult to examine on the human body. To design ergonomic and streamlined outdoor pants, the authors selected seam lines where the changes in skin deformation are at their minimum based on the skin deformation mapping. In addition, the inseam along the medial thigh close to the crotch was removed to adjust the skin length of these areas, thereby increasing the extensible area of fabric necessary to adjust to a skin deformation. After selecting the seam lines, each of the 3D pattern blocks was generated by means of a 2D flattening method. In addition, the stress distribution of overlapped replica blocks along the crotch line during the 2D flattening process is a main independent factor to avoid deteriorating lower body movement as well as a good appearance.

Findings

Based on the results of skin deformation mapping of a human subject, this study suggested that it is best that the design line crosses where there is no skin deformation possible. And the pants were developed without the inner seam line at the upper medial thigh because of skin deformation of a large range of ±6 percent in the upper medial thigh during a 90° knee flexion or in the squatting down position. In a wear test, the developed 3D pattern without an inseam was rated higher than that with an inseam. This verified that removing the inseam, to prevent skin deformation of the medial upper thigh during knee flexion and squatting, is a logical decision. Regarding the correction of the overlapping area during arrangement of the replica, the appearance of the front of the pants was improved when 80 percent of the overlapping area was distributed near the point of the error source, which is the front of the male’s crotch line.

Originality/value

In this study, the crotch area, which has been difficult to observe in previous studies, were observed thoroughly and it was found that the length of the crotch curve did not increase during movement. In addition, skin deformation was mapped during a 90° knee flexion or in the squatting down position. It is expected that the overall process of developing 3D streamlined outdoor pants from 3D skin deformation mapping can be expanded to the development of patterns for other customized functional pants.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 March 2017

Bingfei Gu, Wenping Lin, Junqiang Su and Bugao Xu

The purpose of this paper is to focus on solving a fit problem associated with female pants by taking into account the body shape of crotch curves. The patterns of customized…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to focus on solving a fit problem associated with female pants by taking into account the body shape of crotch curves. The patterns of customized pants could be altered with the distance ease (DE) distribution along the crotch curve.

Design/methodology/approach

Four pairs of pants with different crotch ease allowances were designed based on a standard mannequin, and used to study how the DE was distributed along the crotch curve at a given ease allowance. The unclothed mannequin and the four pants, which were dressed, respectively, on the mannequin, were scanned consecutively by a body imaging system. The crotch curve of the unclothed mannequin was superimposed on that of each clothed mannequin to exhibit the differences in radial distance so that the DE distribution could be measured.

Findings

Through the regression analysis, the prediction models were established to express the relationships between the DE and the ease allowance. These models could be used to estimate the DEs along a crotch curve to reflect its asymmetrical shape when a total allowance was selected. The crotch curves on the pant patterns could be then modified by adding the predicted DEs to the scanned crotch curve.

Originality/value

This study demonstrated a new pattern alteration approach to achieve a better fit for customized female pants based on the 3D scanning data. This approach can be extended to pattern alterations for men’s pants and other shape-critical products.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 November 2018

Pengpeng Cheng and Daoling Chen

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the fit and thermal and moisture comfort factors to provide some reference value for the functional design of underwear.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the fit and thermal and moisture comfort factors to provide some reference value for the functional design of underwear.

Design/methodology/approach

The body size data of 100 male youths are measured to analyze the body shape of the lower body. Based on the complete body size, the authors selected the matching underwear, and obtained the relevant data for the mathematical model of thermal and moisture using Grey correlation analysis method.

Findings

In allusion to the defect of fit comfort and thermal-moisture comfort of the crotch, this paper presented a mathematical model, and experimental results showed that breathable fabric and breathable volume are the key factors.

Originality/value

It was clarified that which is the key to the thermal and moisture comfort. At the same time, male lower body characteristics index is clear.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 March 1997

Janice Huck, Oprah Maganga and Younghee Kim

Protective clothing should ideally provide maximum comfort and protection for the wearer. The design and fit of a garment are factors which can affect both the protective aspects…

2411

Abstract

Protective clothing should ideally provide maximum comfort and protection for the wearer. The design and fit of a garment are factors which can affect both the protective aspects of a garment as well as its comfort. Proper garment fit depends on the relationship of the size of the garment compared with the size of the wearer. Garment ease (where the garment is larger than the wearer) should allow for comfort and mobility; both too much or too little ease can result in a garment that is uncomfortable and restrictive to movement. The purpose of this study was to explore a research technique to isolate the effects of garment ease in one area of a garment while ease in all other garment areas was controlled, and to determine a design that would maximize wearer mobility. Using five male subjects, protective overalls with differing amounts and garment location of crotch ease were evaluated for their effects on mobility and wearer acceptance. Range of motion measurements for selected joints were evaluated using a Leighton Flexometer. Subjects completed a subjective evaluation scale after performing an exercise protocol while wearing the overalls. Results indicated that a specific amount of ease in the crotch length of overalls may be appropriate. Additionally, an overall design that had all needed crotch ease in the back waist area of the garment may be desirable over the more conventional method of adding ease evenly between the front and back sections of the garment. The methodology used in this study provides a means of evaluating not only the potential for design variations in protective clothing, but provides a means to evaluate the dynamic aspects of fit of clothing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 9 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 30 April 2018

Yueqi Zhong, Duan Li, Ge Wu and PengPeng Hu

The automatic body measurement is the key of tailoring, mass customization and fit/ease evaluation. The major challenges include finding the landmarks and extracting the sizes…

Abstract

Purpose

The automatic body measurement is the key of tailoring, mass customization and fit/ease evaluation. The major challenges include finding the landmarks and extracting the sizes accurately. The purpose of this paper is to propose a new method of body measurement based on the loop structure.

Design/methodology/approach

The scanned human model is sliced equally to layers consist of various shapes of loops. The semantic feature analysis has been regarded as a problem of finding the points of interest (POI) and the loop of interest (LOI) according to the types of loop connections. Methods for determining the basic landmarks have been detailed.

Findings

The experimental results validate that the proposed methods can be used to locate the landmarks and to extract sizes on markless human scans robustly and efficiently.

Originality/value

With the method, the body measurement can be quickly performed with average errors around 0.5 cm. The results of segmentation, landmarking and body measurements also validate the robustness and efficiency of the proposed methods.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 December 2020

Pengpeng Cheng, Daoling Chen and Jianping Wang

For comfort evaluation of underwear pressure, this paper proposes an improved GA algorithm to optimize the weight and threshold of BP neural network, namely PSO-GA-BP neural…

Abstract

Purpose

For comfort evaluation of underwear pressure, this paper proposes an improved GA algorithm to optimize the weight and threshold of BP neural network, namely PSO-GA-BP neural network prediction model.

Design/methodology/approach

The objective parameters of underwear, body shape data, skin deformation and other data are selected for simulation experiments to predict the objective pressure and subjective evaluation in dynamic and static state. Compared with the prediction results of BP neural network prediction model, GA-BP neural network prediction model and PSO-BP neural network prediction model, the performance of each prediction model is verified.

Findings

The results show that the BP neural network model optimized by PSO-GA algorithm can accelerate the convergence speed of the neural network and improve the prediction accuracy of underwear pressure.

Originality/value

PSO-GA-BP model provides data support for underwear design, production and processing and has guiding significance for consumers to choose underwear.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 April 2017

Kaixuan Liu, Jianping Wang and Yan Hong

The purpose of this paper is to find out the main factors that influence wearing comfort and how they influence garment-wearing comfort.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to find out the main factors that influence wearing comfort and how they influence garment-wearing comfort.

Design/methodology/approach

Overall, 120 postures were extracted from the activities of daily life and work. Then, the numerical values of clothing pressure of these postures were measured using three-dimension virtual-reality technology. Finally, the data mining technology was applied to analyze the collected data.

Findings

The wearing comfort of pants is mainly influenced by four factors – waist-hip factor, knee-shank factor, crotch factor and thigh-calf factor – and their contributions account for 39.17, 16.4, 13.96 and 6.95 percent, respectively. Hip, waist, crotch and knee influence wearing comfort significantly, and the part below the knee and the part of back thigh have no obvious effect on wearing comfort. Furthermore, the wearing comfort is acceptable if the numerical clothing pressures are below 20 kPa at the parts of hip, waist and crotch and below 10 kPa at the parts of back thigh, knee and shank.

Originality/value

The paper demonstrates how different human body parts influence garment-wearing comfort. All of the results in this research facilitate pattern design of pants and quantitative evaluation of garment-wearing comfort.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 January 2006

Yueqi Zhong and Bugao Xu

This paper presents methods and algorithms to automatically segment and measure the human body.

1891

Abstract

Purpose

This paper presents methods and algorithms to automatically segment and measure the human body.

Design/methodology/approach

In the segmentation procedure, two different methods are designed to find the crotch point for the situation of non‐contacted thigh and contacted thigh, respectively. Three different methods: minimum distance algorithm, minimum inclination angle algorithm, and directional neighbor identification algorithm are introduced to search the branching points or triangle. In the body measurement procedure, a pre‐sorted circling method is designed for circumference measurement, and the basic principle of landmark acquisition has been discussed. These techniques are validated via testing over different type of scanned model.

Findings

The results of automatic segmentation and body measurement have verified that our methods are efficient and versatile in processing different type of scanned body.

Research limitations/implications

The accurate and automatic locating of wrist, ankle and knees contour can be more difficult than it appears to be.

Practical implications

The main usage of scanned body in our research is for 3D garment try‐on.

Originality/value

This paper introduces the methods for crotch identification, and the methods including minimum distance algorithm, minimum inclination angle algorithm, and directional neighbor identification algorithm for human body segmentation. It also explains the fundamental measuring techniques, and outlines the results of using these techniques in segmentation and measurement.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 18 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 October 2010

Hyunsook Han, Yunja Nam and Su‐Jeong Hwang Shin

The purpose of this paper is to provide algorithms of the automatic landmark extraction software program that are applicable for any torso shape.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to provide algorithms of the automatic landmark extraction software program that are applicable for any torso shape.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, Automatic Landmark Identification (AULID), an automatic landmark extraction software program, was developed to extract consistent landmark locations from any torso shape. A methodology of geometrical characteristics of the body surfaces around each landmark was used for the algorithms and implemented with C++. The accuracy of the AULID was tested on various torso shapes. The verification methodology consisted of mean difference (MD), mean absolute differences (MAD), and one‐way analysis of variance. Duncan test for multiple comparisons was used to evaluate the significant differences of MAD values among different torso groups. The MAD values were compared to the anthropometric survey allowable errors.

Findings

The algorithms of AULID provided both accuracy and consistency of identifying landmarks on any body torso types.

Originality/value

Most 3D body scanning systems often show landmark location errors when dealing with nonstandard body shapes. None of automatic landmark extraction software program provides consistency of identifying landmarks in various body shapes. However, algorithms of AULID, an automatic landmark extraction software program, in this study are only consistent definitions for identifying landmarks in any torso shape.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 22 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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