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Dref-3 friction spun core yarns produced using staple fibre yarn as the core, e.g. Jute core yarn wrapped with cotton fibre, have poorer mechanical properties compared to the core yarn itself. The purpose of this study was to understand the structure of such yarns, that will lead to the optimization of fibre, machine and process variables for production of better quality yarn from the Dref-3/3000 machines.

The Dref spinning trials were conducted following a full factorial design with six variables, all with two operative levels. The Dref-3 friction spun yarn, in which the core is a plied, twisted ring yarn composed of cotton singles and the sheath, formed from the same cotton fibres making the singles, has been examined. The structures have also been studied by using the tracer fibre technique.

It was observed that rather than depending on the plied core yarn, the tensile properties of the Dref-3 yarn are significantly determined by the parameters those affect the constituent single yarn tensile properties, i.e. the amount of twist and its twist direction, yarn linear density and the sheath fibre proportion used during the Dref spinning in making the final yarn. Further, when the twist direction of single yarn, double yarn and the Dref spinning false twisting are in the same direction, the produced core-sheath yarn exhibits better tensile properties.

The understanding of the yarn structure will lead to optimized production of all staple fibre core Dref spun yarns.

The research work may lead to utilization of coarse and harsh untapped natural fibres to the production of value-added textile products.

Though an earlier research has reported the effects of sheath fibre fineness and length on the tensile and bending properties of Dref-3 friction yarn, the present study is the first documented attempt using the tracer fibre technique to understand Dref-3 yarn structure with plied staple fibrous core.

The purpose of this paper is to propose the materials structure-wetting behaviour relationships and to show their peculiarities for some types of surgical woven fabrics and applications of liquids.

To show the effects of fabrics structure on wetting behaviour of surgical textile materials, the special structural indices in terms of yarns and filaments lateral area were used.

It was shown good correlation between total lateral area of filaments in unit area of woven fabrics and wetting contact angle of liquid drops on the tested samples. Probably due to different structure of woven fabrics at a level of fibres, another index, i.e. total lateral area of yarns in unit area of fabrics, is not suitable to show clear effect on wetting behaviour of the samples. The possibilities of applications of relationships for several types of textile materials and liquids were indicated.

To date there are no investigations concerning relationships between special structural properties of the surgical woven fabrics and their wetting behaviour. On a basis of the proposed approach into fabrics structure evaluation, this study developed analysis and some types of new equations for prediction of wetting contact angle of the materials.

The effect of pick density, constituent filament fineness and heat‐setting on the fabric thickness and compressional properties have been studied before and after laundering. With the increase in pick density fabric thickness, compression and compressibility increases up to a certain extent. Coarser filament textured yarn fabric have higher thickness, compression and compressibility than that of finer filament textured yarn fabrics. Heat‐set fabrics possess higher thickness, compression and compressibility than the grey textured yarn fabrics. However, fabric compressional recovery and resiliency are mainly influenced by the fabric pick density rather than the effect of heat‐setting and filament fineness of constituent textured yarns. On laundering, fabric thickness, compression and compressibility improve particularly for the fabric of lower pick density. The effect of laundering is marginal on fabric compressional recovery and resiliency.

This paper seeks to report an experimental investigation on the tearing and tensile strength behaviour of military khaki fabrics from grey to finished process.

Uses three different types of military fabric (3 up 1 down twill), differing in type of constituent yarns (ring/rotor) in order to test their tearing and testing strength behaviour.

Tearing strength of fabric is found to be very much susceptible to change due to the process variation, while fabric tensile strength is relatively less sensitive. Ring spun yarn fabric shows higher tearing strength compared with rotor spun yarn fabric. However, the difference in their tearing strength reduces substantially as the process approaches towards the finished state. On the other hand, rotor spun yarn fabric exhibits higher tensile strength along the warp. Tearing strength along bias direction is in between warp and weft wise tearing strength; whereas tensile strength is lowest while tested along the bias direction. During the grey to finished process, tear strength falls at bleaching and dyeing, and particularly drops in strength is being more at the dyeing stage.

This study has investigated the tearing and tensile strength behaviour of military khaki fabrics from grey to finished state, developing understanding of the impact of different processes on the tearing strength, so that fabric of the required tear strength can be developed with process modification.

Occurrence of fabric rupture is a problem that can influence fabric performance during wear. In this regard, fabric tearing resistance is considered by manufacturers and consumers and enhancing tear resistance through optimization of related parameters is beneficial.

In this study, the tearing resistance of a series of shirting fabrics with various weave patterns and weft densities were investigated by both static and dynamic tear test methods. Moreover, the constituent yarn's frictional and tensile behaviour was evaluated and their relation with tear resistance was analysis.

According to the outcomes, the fabric firmness and density and friction of yarns affect the tear resistance, reversely. However an improvement in yarn's tenacity can raise the tear resistance.

In this study it was aimed to not only consider influence of both static and dynamic tear test approach on the tearing performance of fabrics regarding their structural parameters, the impact of the constituent's yarn properties include tensile behaviour and friction coefficient on the tearing performance of fabric considered, as well.

The traditional Japanese cotton-crepe fabric chijimi has been used for summer clothing for over a century because of its good skin comfort. The high extensibility of this fabric relies on the high-twist cotton yarns used in the weft direction. The purpose of this paper is to show the effect of environmental humidity on the extensibility of highly twisted cotton yarns to help in choosing weft yarn suitable for woven fabric.

Four highly twisted cotton yarns are examined under 10-90 percent RH and in 25°C water. Cyclic tensile tests are performed to obtain the tensile energy, resilience, extensibility at maximum applied load (EM), and residual strain.

Comparing the same yarn-count samples Y1 and Y2, the EM of Y2 (2,200 T/m) is larger than that of Y1 (1,000 T/m) under all RH conditions, and the difference increases at humidity over 60 percent RH. For fabric crepe samples woven by Y1 (warp) and Y2 (weft), the extensibility (EM-1) in the weft direction is in the range 16-26 percent, which is equivalent to that of outer-knitted fabrics. The extensibility and recovery of chijimi is largely dominated by the twist of weft yarns, which is also influenced by changes in relative humidity.

The skin comfort of Takashima chijimi has been of interest, but the high extensibility of this cotton fabric has not been given much attention. The results of this study show that yarn twist is key to controlling extensibility in high-humidity environments.

For over a century, traditional Japanese cotton crepe fabrics have been popular for men’s underwear in the humid summer. Now, consumer demand is for crepe fabrics that are more attractive, reflecting a shift in use from underwear to women’s dresses. The purpose of this paper is to clarify how the structures of the crepe and its constituent yarns affect the physical properties, handle and silhouette formability of crepe fabrics for dresses.

Three plain-weave gray fabrics were finished by four different processes to change their crepe structures. The mechanical and surface properties of the fabrics were measured using the Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics. The primary hand values and silhouette formability of the fabrics were calculated using conversion equations based on the physical properties. The handle of the crepe fabrics and the aesthetic appearance of flared collars made of them were assessed by female students using the semantic differential method.

Comparing the fabrics made from the same gray fabric, the piqué crepe fabrics showed larger Hari (anti-drape) and Shari (crispness) than the others. The subjective hand value of softness was closely related to fabric thickness. The assessors preferred the fine piqué crepe fabrics over the wide piqué fabrics regarding both the tactile feeling of the fabrics and the aesthetic appearance of the flared collars. The attractiveness of the flared collars was dominated by the shear stiffness of the fabrics.

The fine piqué crepe fabric made from fine yarns produced a more preferable handle. The fine piqué fabric made from thicker yarns produced flared collars with silhouettes that are more attractive. This indicates that the fine piqué structure is a positive feature that makes the fabric suitable for various types of dresses.

The purpose of this study was to produce yarns from three different spinning techniques, i.e.Murata Vortex Spinning (MVS) ring spinning and rotor spinning. Those yarns were then used to produce fabrics. Then, the effect of silicone softener on tactile comfort of fabric was investigated.

Three different yarns, i.e. Ring, Rotor and MVS yarns, were used to make fabrics using CCI sample loom which were then subjected to post treatments like desizing, scouring and bleaching. After the completion of the dyeing process, silicone-based softener was used to improve the hand feel of fabrics. The structures of three yarns were evaluated using Scanning electron microscopy. The fabrics were evaluated against compression, bending and surface properties using Kawabata evaluation system.

The fabric made of MVS yarn depicted more geometrical roughness, coefficient of friction and bending rigidity but less compressibility as compared to fabrics made with other yarns. It was observed that softener concentration has a direct relationship with thickness and bending rigidity of the fabric, and inverse relationship with coefficient of friction and geometrical roughness of the fabric.

MVS yarn has some superior properties over rotor and ring spun yarn like high production rates, high resistance to pilling, clear appearance and stability against deformation but has disadvantage that it has less compressibility. Therefore, softener is applied on the fabric, to address this issue, so that it could also be used for apparels application.

An intelligence machine is a computer program that can learn from experience, i.e. modifies its processing on the basis of newly acquired information and thereafter makes decisions in a rightfully sensible manner when presented with inputs. Examples of such machine learning systems are artificial neural networks (ANNs), support vector machines (SVMs), fuzzy logic, evolutionary computation, etc. The prediction of cotton yarn properties from constituent fibre properties is quite significant from a technological point of view. Regardless of the relentless efforts made by researchers, the exact relationship between fibre and yarn properties has not yet been decisively recognized. The intelligence machine, which is a potent data-modeling tool in capturing complex input-output relationships, seems to be the right approach to decipher the fibre-to-yarn relationship. In this work, various cotton yarns properties, such as strength, elongation, evenness and hairiness, have been predicted from fibre properties by using different intelligence models, such as ANNs, SVMs and adaptive neuro fuzzy inference systems (ANFIS). A k-fold cross validation technique is applied to assess the expected generalization accuracies of these models. A comparison of the prediction efficiencies among these models shows that the performances of the SVM model has better accuracies than the other models.

This paper aims to develop bilayer woven fabrics with different picking sequences with enhanced comfort without any change in the constituent materials.

Six bilayer woven fabrics were produced on Dobby loom with 3/1 twill weave using micro-polyester yarn. Three different picking sequences, i.e. single pick insertion (SPI), double pick insertion (DPI) and three pick insertion (3PI), were used in both face and back layers. The effect of picking sequence on air permeability (AP), volume porosity, thermal resistance and overall moisture management capability (OMMC) of the samples were analyzed.

The results showed that 3PI–3PI picking sequence gives the highest OMMC, AP and thermal resistance in bilayer woven fabrics and the least results exhibited by SPI–SPI picking sequence.

This research uses a bilayer woven system that develops channels and trapes the air causing higher thermal resistance; therefore, applicable for winter sports clothing rather than for summer wear. Developed bilayer woven fabrics can be used in winter sportswear to improve the comfort of the wearer and reduce fatigue during activity.

Authors have developed bilayer fabrics by changing the picking sequences, i.e. SPI, DPI and 3PI of weft yarns in both layers and compared their thermo-physiological comfort properties.