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Many researches have been conducted on the production planning problems. Recently, genetic algorithms have been applied to solve this problem. No studies have been discussed to solve the production planning problem in the operations of fabric spreading and cutting in garment manufacturing. A non-optimized spreading-table planning will directly causes poor work balance with idle time on the computerized fabric-cutting system. As a result, delay for delivery of cut pieces to the sewing operations happens. One of the factors greatly influencing the final spreading and cutting planning is the quantities of spreading tables installed. This paper presents a genetic algorithm (GA) approach to investigate an optimized spreading-table planning for the computerized fabric-cutting system and the effects of different quantities of spreading table on the spreading-table planning. The results show that GA is an effective approach to find out the optimized planning for the cutting system and predict the effects of different number of spreading tables on the production planning.
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Abstract
A hybrid flowshop (HFS) problem on the pre‐sewing o perations and a master production scheduling (MPS) problem of apparel manufacture are solved by a proposed two‐tier scheduling model. The first objective of this paper is to plan a MPS for the factory so that the costs are minimized when the production orders are completed before and after the delivery dates required by the customers. The second objective is to minimize the completion time of the pre‐sewing operations in the cutting department while the production quantities required by the sewing department at several predetermined times can be fulfilled by the cutting department. Experimentation is conducted and the results show the excellent performance of the proposed scheduling model for the apparel industry.
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Lijuan Wang, Chunhua Gu, Na Liu, Yindi He and Zhaofang Du
The paper aims to study cut resistant property of basic weft plain-knitted fabric for protective clothing.
Abstract
Purpose
The paper aims to study cut resistant property of basic weft plain-knitted fabric for protective clothing.
Design/methodology/approach
Effects of fiber materials, fabric direction and knitting technology (sinking-depth) were explored, respectively. Cut process of fabric was tracked and the theoretical analysis was provided to evaluate energy transferring of cutting. Fiber-based cut behavior was observed by SEM images. Deformation energy stored in the loop due to yarn bending was regard as initial elastic potential energy of the fabric, which was related to loop structure.
Findings
Cut resistance of the fiber material was the dominant factor for cut resistance of weft plain-knitted fabric, while unit loop structure played a critical role in improving cut resistance.
Social implications
Cut resistance of the fiber material was the dominant factor for cut resistance of weft plain-knitted fabric, while the unit loop structure played a critical role in improving cut resistance.
Originality/value
The paper provides theoretical support of developing flexible protective clothing.
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Biqin Zhan, Xian Huang, Chenyuan Cai and Honglian Cong
Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new…
Abstract
Purpose
Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new development mode of fully formed knitted apparel with double-layer structure and fake two-piece knitwear is proposed.
Design/methodology/approach
Based on the upper body structure feature points of human body characteristics and single-layer knitted garment prototype, a double-layer structure knitted garment pattern was established by pattern expansion method. The model was introduced into SDS-APPEX3 design system for process design, including three aspects consists: the inner vest, the outer blouse and double-layer joint part, analysis of the process and forming principle. Weaving on four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine of MACH-2XS, through the setting of the machine parameters. Finally, a full-shaped fake two-piece knitted blouse was formed.
Findings
On the basis of single-layer knitted garment pattern, a double-layer garment pattern is constructed, and the design and weaving are completed on the four-needle bed computerized knitting machine of MACH-2XS and its supporting SDS-APPEX3 design system through the fake two-piece double-layer garment style design. The double-layer joint model is an effective reference for the construction of this kind of fake two-piece fully formed knitted clothing.
Originality/value
In this paper, a design and knitting method of fully formed double-layer structure fake two-piece knitted garment is proposed. The integrated knitting of fully formed double-layer structure sweater is realized for the first time, which provides ideas for the development of fully formed double-layer structure knitted clothing style and enriches the fully formed clothing style.
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Suranjan Lahiri, Anannya Deb Roy and Prabir Jana
This study aims to conduct an exploratory research to find out the evolving constructs and variables of digital literacy, as seen by researchers since its inception. This research…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to conduct an exploratory research to find out the evolving constructs and variables of digital literacy, as seen by researchers since its inception. This research also includes an empirical study to identify and further analyze the digital literacy dimensions of university students studying fashion design program in Kolkata, India.
Design/methodology/approach
The exploratory study is based on a review of extant literature, whereas the empirical study is carried out through a self-assessment survey based on UNESCOs Digital Literacy Global Framework competences after validating their relevance with respect to the fashion and apparel industry. A total of 120 university students studying four years Bachelor of Design (Fashion Design) program were asked to rate their digital literacy competences on a five-point Likert scale, with a self-reported truth response against each statement. The results were analyzed using multivariate statistical tools.
Findings
Based on UNESCO competences, it came out that there are eight digital literacy dimensions. ANOVA further confirms that the dimensions requiring higher-order cognition, such as “software management competence” and “digital citizenship competence,” increase with progress in the graduate program. However, lower-order competence dimensions remained unchanged over time.
Originality/value
The research instrument used for this empirical study, its identified dimensions and the fact that higher-order competence dimensions are enhanced with progression in university education may be helpful for similar research in other fashion-related programs.
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Togar M. Simatupang, Alan C. Wright and Ramaswami Sridharan
Increasing competition due to market globalisation, product diversity and technological breakthroughs stimulates independent firms to collaborate in a supply chain that allows…
Abstract
Increasing competition due to market globalisation, product diversity and technological breakthroughs stimulates independent firms to collaborate in a supply chain that allows them to gain mutual benefits. This requires the collective know‐how of the coordination mode, including the ability to synchronise interdependent processes, to integrate information systems and to cope with distributed learning. However, research into coordination has paid little attention to acknowledging different modes of coordination. This study promotes the notion of mutuality and the focus of coordination in order to establish a comprehensive taxonomy of coordination modes. Four different modes of coordination have been identified: logistics synchronisation, information sharing, incentive alignment, and collective learning. The knowledge of coordination is then proposed as an explicit understanding about key drivers of coordination modes that have positive impacts on supply chain performance. This paper also presents a research agenda.
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Holly Pui‐Yan Ho and Tsan‐Ming Choi
The purpose of this paper is to explain why fashion companies would “go green” and to evaluate business models and sustainable supply chains. By applying the Five‐R framework, the…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to explain why fashion companies would “go green” and to evaluate business models and sustainable supply chains. By applying the Five‐R framework, the authors further evaluate the initiation, implementation and institutionalization journey of a local fashion company and generate important insights and findings.
Design/methodology/approach
It is an exploratory qualitative study. The Five‐R conceptual framework is reviewed, proposed, and applied for a real case analysis.
Findings
From the studies, data and literature gathered and analyzed hitherto, it is evident that fashion companies can seize competitive advantage through strategic management of environmental challenges. In their greening initiatives, fashion companies should strongly consider the product development process and extend stewardship across the multiple life‐cycles of products. The Five‐R framework, together with its future extensions, can offer an opportunity to clearly display what has been achieved by the company at present and also succinctly demonstrate what area the company is lacking in or where there is room for further beneficial development.
Research limitations/implications
This research focuses on examining the scenario of one real company. The findings need not be generalized and applicable to all companies: this is a major research limitation of this study.
Practical implications
The research findings can help explain and conceptualize fashion companies’ journal of going‐green. Some specific recommendations are given and managerial insights are generated.
Originality/value
This paper undertakes a qualitative real case analysis to study green supply chain management (SCM) challenges by applying the Five‐R framework. The authors believe that this study belongs to the first group of research works which specifically examine this area in the domain of fashion marketing and management.
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Marcia Perry and Amrik S. Sohal
Presents a case study on quick response practices in a supply chain within the Australian textiles, clothing and footwear (TCF) industry, conducted as part of a government‐led…
Abstract
Presents a case study on quick response practices in a supply chain within the Australian textiles, clothing and footwear (TCF) industry, conducted as part of a government‐led project aimed at improving the performance of the Australian TCF industry towards becoming more internationally competitive. Details of the Australian TCF Industry Quick Response Program are provided, which comprised six major activities: assessing company commitment and readiness; formulation of supply chain clusters; roundtable meetings; workshops and seminars; implementation of quick response techniques and technologies; and audits to assess improvements. The supply chain consists of Myer/Grace Brothers (retailer), Diana Ferrari (shoe manufacturer), Burrowes (shoe components supplier), and Packer Tannery (leather supplier). The activities undertaken within this supply chain are discussed and some of the key lessons learnt from this case study are highlighted.
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Antonio C. Caputo and Mario Palumbo
This article aims to suggest to managers involved in re‐engineering projects a method to assess the feasibility of manufacturing re‐insourcing.
Abstract
Purpose
This article aims to suggest to managers involved in re‐engineering projects a method to assess the feasibility of manufacturing re‐insourcing.
Design/methodology/approach
At first, an analysis of the textile sector is carried out. Subsequently, a methodology is described, able to assess the feasibility of manufacturing re‐insourcing. As a case study, a high production shop is then proposed and sized for the quick response requirements of a company producing young apparel lines on behalf of third parties. Finally, an economic evaluation is carried out in order to assess the profitability of the re‐insourcing strategy.
Findings
A methodology which can aid managers to assess the feasibility of manufacturing re‐insourcing in re‐engineering programs is proposed.
Originality/value
The proposed methodology is original.
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Jianping Wang, Deyao Shen, Xiaofeng Yao and Wenqin Lu
Whole garment knitwear is one of the knitwear development trends in the foreseeable future for its advantages of environmental friendliness and wearing comfort. However, the…
Abstract
Purpose
Whole garment knitwear is one of the knitwear development trends in the foreseeable future for its advantages of environmental friendliness and wearing comfort. However, the development of new styles of the whole garment knitwear requires both fashion design and computer programming, which makes it time-consuming and difficult. In this paper, a whole garment knitted skirt template Library is introduced to solve this problem.
Design/methodology/approach
The template library composes of silhouette module, design element module and parts shaping technology module. It was built based on a comprehensive investigation of design and technology. By adhering to the principle of similarity and reusability, the template library of whole garment knitted skirts was established through the innovative design and hierarchical classification of compressed patterns and package patterns.
Findings
With the template library, more than 7.7 × 1025 package pattern templates can be generated through the permutation and combination of the package pattern templates of design elements and parts shaping technology.
Originality/value
The results indicated that it can accelerate the design process and improve the design efficiency of new styles with the template library. This approach can also provide inspiration for the designers and realize rapid response and personalized customization of knitted garment production. In addition, the whole garment templates can be applied into constructing other types of clothing template libraries, such as jackets, pants, etc.
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