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This paper aims to extract the dye colourant from teak leaves using different aqueous mediums (Alkaline, Neutral and Acidic); to characterize the dye in terms of yield %; ash content and moisture content; to standardize the conditions of application of dye extracted from teak leaves on selected natural and synthetic fabrics using selected natural and chemical mordants; to assess the colour value (K/S, L*, c*/ h*, a*, b*) and fastness properties of the dyed samples in terms of wash, rub, light and perspiration fastness; and to develop dyed and printed designs using combinations of mordant and extracted dye.

Stage 1 – Extraction of dye from teak leaves; and characterization of dye: yield% ash content and moisture content. Stage 2 – Preparation of fabrics for dyeing; optimization of mordanting parameters using pre mordanting method followed by post mordanting; and optimization of dyeing parameters. Stage 3 – Testing of dyed fabric – Colour Measurement; K/S L*a*b*/L*c*h*; fastness properties; wash fastness done in the Laundrometer using ISO 2 standard test method; crock fastness done by Crockmeter using AATCC 116–1995 test method; perspiration fastness tested by perspirometer using AATCC 15– 2007 test method; and light fastness assessment in Mercury Bulb Tungsten Filament (MBTF) light fastness tester using AATCC Test Method 16–2004.

The findings of the study show that waste teak leaves can be used as an effective dye for natural as well as synthetic fabrics giving a wide range of colours on wool, silk and nylon. The maximum relative colour strength of the extracted dye on unmordanted dyed samples was found to be at pH 5 on wool and silk and at pH 7 on nylon. A range of shades was obtained with the use of different mordants. The extracted dye showed moderate to good fastness properties in terms of light, wash, rub and perspiration on wool and silk and excellent on nylon. Fastness properties were found to improve with the application of mordants both as pre and post method. Various combinations of mordants and dye result in obtaining pleasing and harmonious colours which were used aesthetically for printing.

Due to time constrains, extraction in an organic medium could not be done, which could be a further scope for study.

Dyeing using teak leaves is a step towards sustainability and effective waste utilization with promising potential for application on natural as well as synthetic fabrics. Good colour with added properties will provide excellent solutions for eco-friendly methods of dyeing.

This paper demonstrates the new possibilities offered by innovative uses of by-products of the timber industry and open good prospects for alternatives to synthetic colourants and new markets for the textile industry. It offers a new tool for the development of slow fashion.

It is a common practice to prune the tree branches to improve wood quality; thus, leaves are easily available as by product from pruning and also from wood harvesting. In the present study, waste teak leaves (Tectona grandis L.) were used for the extraction of dye.

The purpose of this paper is to extract the eco-friendly natural dye obtained from the flower of Spathodea campanulata and apply on silk fabric using combination of mordants. The fastness properties of the flower of Spathodea campanulata dyed silk fabric have been studied using different combination (1:3, 1:1 and 3:1) of various mordants, such as myrobolan: nickel sulphate, myrobolan: aluminium sulphate, myrobolan: potassium dichromate, myrobolan: ferrous sulphate and myrobolan: stannous chloride. The wash, rub, light and perspiration fastness of the dyed samples have been evaluated.

For dyeing there are three methods are used. They are Pre mordanting, Simultaneous mordanting and Post mordanting methods. Dyed silk materials are tested by using wash fastness, rub fastness, light and perspiration fastness methods.

It is found that Spathodea campanulata dye can be successfully used for the dyeing of silk to obtain a wide range colours by using various combinations of mordants. With regards to colour fastness, test samples exhibit excellent fastness to washing, rubbing, except for pre-mordanting using myrobolan: potassium dichromate combination; and good to excellent fastness to perspiration in both acidic and alkaline media.

Availability of literature related to this work is not available. The study of combination of mordants of this natural dye on silk is a new research work and the large scale preparation is definitely very useful to the society.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of pick density, pile height and pile yarn count (both single- and double-ply yarn) on the colour fastness to crocking, colour fastness to washing, colour fastness to water of woven velour printed terry fabrics. These variables have also been optimized for developing high-quality fabrics.

Variables were selected on the basis of past research experience and samples were prepared according to the Box–Behnken design of experiments. The samples were tested for colour fastness to crocking, colour fastness to washing and colour fastness to water by following AATCC 8, AATCC 61, 2A and AATCC 107, respectively.

The colour fastness to crocking, washing and water of woven velour printed terry fabrics increases with the decrease in pile height and pick density. The colour fastness properties of the fabric increase with increase in fineness of the pile yarn count. Woven velour printed terry fabric with 16.25 picks per cm, 3.5 mm pile height and 16 Ne pile yarn will show best colour fastness. Woven velour printed terry fabric (plied pile yarn) with 16.25 picks per cm, 3.5 mm pile height and 2/24 Ne pile yarn will show best colour fastness

Proved a practical approach to control fastness properties of the fabric by changing fabric variables.

Colour fastness properties of woven velour printed terry fabrics have never been reported. The research work gives the better understanding to develop high quality of fabrics by reducing pile height and pick density. This will also reduce the cost of the fabric.

The present study aims to focus on the feasibility of using an aqueous extract from the fruit shell of Camellia oleifera Abel as a source of natural colourant in printing-paste preparation for pigment printing of cotton fabric. The effects of pre- and post-mordanting with three common metallic mordants, that is AlK(SO₄)₂, CuSO₄ and FeSO₄ on colour yield and colour fastness properties are also investigated.

The printing paste was prepared by mixing the concentrated Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shell extract solution with commercially available synthetic thickener and binder. The fabric sample was printed with the prepared printing paste using a flat-screen printing technique. To determine the effects of pre- and post-mordanting, AlK(SO₄)₂, CuSO₄ and FeSO₄ mordant aqueous solutions with various concentrations were applied using the pad-dry technique. Comparisons between printing with and without mordants were evaluated in terms of colour strength (K/S values) and colour fastness to washing, light, crocking and perspiration.

Without the mordants, the printed fabric had a yellowish brown shade with acceptable colour fastness properties, that is fair to good wash fastness, moderate light fastness, good to very good crocking fastness and fair to good perspiration fastness. The use of mordants, especially CuSO₄ and FeSO₄, not only enhanced colour strength but also imparted different colours to the fabric. Compared to the unmordanted fabrics, colour fastness properties were mostly comparable or improved in the mordanted fabrics depending on the type and concentration of mordants.

Although in the case of CuSO₄ the light fastness was increased to a good to very good level, it is recommended that the final print be produced with a concentration of less than 0.125 gL⁻¹ to yield the print with the residual amount of Cu metal under the limit, that is less than 50 ppm as regulated by the Oeko-Tex^® standard.

The obtained prints from Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shell extract provided shades with satisfactory colour fastness to washing, light, crocking and perspiration. The extract from Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shell has the potential to be used as an alternative to synthetic dye in the textile industry.

The use of Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shells, which are considered as abundant byproducts of tea seed oil production, as natural colouring agents for pigment printing of cotton fabric has been reported for the first time. It will minimise the environmental impact of this waste and create more valuable textile products.

The purpose of this study is to investigate the possibility of dyeing polyester (PET) fabric with natural dye extracted from annatto seeds using high temperature dyeing method.

PET fabric was dyed with annatto extract by varying dyeing parameters (temperature, time, pH and dye concentration) to determine the optimum dyeing conditions. The influences of KAl(SO₄)₂, FeSO₄, gallnut mordants or a commercial UV absorber on colour yield and fastness properties were further studied.

Optimum results were obtained when the fabric was dyed at 130°C for 30 min in a dyebath containing 15 per cent (owf) annatto dye at pH 6. The dyed fabric had an orange shade and exhibited good to excellent wash, crock, perspiration fastness and fair light fastness. Further dyeing with mordants or UV absorber mostly resulted in lower colour yield and similar fastness properties.

Although the light fastness was slightly improved to moderate level for the sample with UV absorber, a noticeable colour staining on cotton portion of multi-fibre fabric occurred when subjected to standard washing test. Compared to C.I. Disperse Orange 73, the annatto dye exhibited comparable colour fastness but had inferior light fastness when dyed at approximately the same colour strength.

Natural colourants from annatto seeds can be used to dye PET fabric at high temperature without mordants, yielding deep orange shade and satisfactory fastness properties. This study provides a promising application to reduce the environmental impact of synthetic dyes.

This paper aims to examine the recipe for and standard methods of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extract. The dyeing of the fabric was performed by immersion it without heating for a short time to obtain the best results.

The dyeing experiment using cotton fabric with jackfruit wood extract was conducted by immersion at room temperature. The independent variables studied were the mordant method, type of mordant, mordant concentration, salt concentration and dyeing pH. The dependent variables were colour strength and colour fastness to washing and rubbing. The orthogonal array L16 (45) was used in the study to obtain the optimal values for each parameter of the response variables. The multi-response signal-to-noise (MRSN) method was used to optimise the five response variables with different quality characteristics so that the best parameters could be obtained based on the highest MRSN ratio value.

The best parameters were obtained at an MRSN value of 4.5254 under A3B3C1D2E4 conditions, namely, the dyeing process with post mordant, aluminium nitrate type mordant, mordant concentration of 10 g/L, salt concentration of 15 g/L and dyeing a pH: of 10. Under these conditions, the value of K/S was obtained at 1.893, colour fastness to washing (GS: 4) and (SS: 4–5), dry rubbing (SS: 5) and wet rubbing (SS: 4–5).

Obtaining a standard recipe and method for dyeing cotton cloth with jackfruit wood extract by immersion without heating is expected to lead to the development of natural dyes, and especially their application on an industrial scale. This standard and method can be used as technical guidelines by industry. The use of aluminum nitrate as a mordant will help achieve optimal dyeing results. The use of polyaluminium chloride (PAC) mordant, which has the potential to produce high colour strength, and papaya fruit sap, which has the capacity to increase colour fastness, still need to be developed to improve the results of natural dyes.

The standard recipe and dyeing method will be able to improve the results of the dyeing of cotton fabrics with natural dyes. Short immersion dyeing without heating and the optimal results obtained are the main attractions for their use by the textile/batik industry, as the process is easier and a lower cost. The results of dyeing with dark colours and good colour fastness mean the textile products are of the higher quality demanded by consumers, thereby increasing sales. This will encourage the use of and increase the need for natural dyes by industry, consequently reducing the use of synthetic dyes.

The use of natural dyes, chemical mordant from aluminum salts, and natural mordant from papaya fruit sap in the dyeing process in the textile/batik industry in Indonesia will produce eco-textile and eco-batik products that are environmentally friendly and of high quality. This in turn will increase consumer interest and sales, meaning that the income and economy of workers in the textile industry/crafts sector will also increase. In addition, the use of natural dyes with the selection of a safe mordant (not containing heavy metals) will reduce the use of synthetic dyes, which pollute and damage the aquatic environment.

This study found a standard recipe and method of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extracted by immersion without heating for a short time to obtain the best results. In addition, the discovery was of PAC, a new mordant which is effective in the use of natural dyes can give high colour strength to cotton fabric. In addition to the discovery of a new mordant, PAC, which has the potential to produce high colour strength, papaya fruit sap also has the capacity to increase colour fastness with the use of natural dyes from the flavonoid group.

The purpose of this paper is to prepare anionically surface‐modified organic pigment/binder ink jet inks for printing on chitosan‐pre‐treated silk fabrics.

Anionically surface‐modified organic pigment/binder ink jet inks were prepared in four colours (cyan, magenta, yellow and black). The pigment‐to‐binder ratio was controlled at 1:6.4 for the cyan, magenta and yellow inks, and 1:3.4 for the black ink. Ink formulations (by weight) were assembled and mixed as follows: 8 per cent pigment dispersion, 10 per cent diethylene glycol, 12 per cent glycerol, 5 per cent urea, 10 per cent polyacrylate emulsion binder and 55 per cent deionised water. They were characterised in terms of their particle size, zeta‐potential, particle morphology, viscosity, surface tension and pH. The inks were printed onto silk or the chitosan pre‐treated silk fabrics using a piezo‐type ink jet printer. The fabrics were then heat cured and analysed for the effect of chitosan pre‐treatment on colour gamut, wash fastness and crock fastness.

The formulated ink jet inks yielded an acceptably good ink jetting reliability, one‐year stability and printability. The chitosan pre‐treated silk fabrics gave a wider colour gamut and colour saturation than the non‐treated one. Crock fastness and wash fastness of the chitosan pre‐treated fabrics were relatively better than those of non‐treated fabrics.

The surface‐modified pigments are transparent and thus their inks printed on the chitosan pre‐treated fabrics produced slightly low K/S values of cyan, magenta, yellow, and black colours because the limited chitosan concentration in the pre‐treatment is controlled by its solubility in acidic solution. The higher loading of chitosan pre‐treatment gave higher K/S values and a stiffer touch of the fabrics.

The water‐based pigmented inks having the sulphonate group on the pigment surface can be printed on the fabric surface pre‐treated with chitosan molecules which have the protonated amino groups to give good colour appearance. It is anticipated that this type of ink can be applied to any textile surface which has been pre‐treated with the protonated chitosan.

The modified organic pigments having the sulphonate group on their surface can be used to produce novel water‐based ink jet inks which can print on the chitosan pre‐treated silk fabric. Ionic interactions between the sulphonate group of the pigment and protonated amino groups of chitosan in conjunction with polyacrylate binder enhance colour strength, widen colour gamut and chroma, and produce good adhesion for fabric operational properties such as wash fastness and crock fastness.

The application of indigo dyes in the denim industries has been criticised due to the introduction of non-renewable oxidation products into the environment. Previous studies have investigated that reducing sugars can be used as green alternatives to sodium dithionite in the indigo dyeing of cotton fabric owing to their reduced and stable redox potential in the dye bath. The purpose of this study was to dye denim cotton fabric with indigo dye using various reducing sugars and alkalis. The use of sucrose and potassium hydroxide (KOH) for indigo dyeing has been explored for the first time.

A mixed factorial design with four variables including alkali, pH, number of dips and type of reducing sugar at different levels was studied to identify a significant correlation between the effect of these variables on the colour strength and fastness properties of the dyeings.

Investigations were made to examine the significant factors and interactions of the selected responses in the eco-friendly dyeing method. This process has the potential to reduce the load of sulphite and sulphate generated in the dyebath due to the use of a conventional reducing agent, sodium dithionite. The colour strength of the dyeing reduced with fructose was found to be better than other reducing sugars and significantly influenced by the number of dips, pH levels and the interaction between pH and reducing sugars. Using fructose for indigo dyeing with two dips at a pH of 11.5, using KOH as an alkali, results in higher colour strength values. The fastness properties of the indigo-dyed sample with reducing sugars ranging from fair to good or good to excellent. Specifically, colour change receives a rating of grey scale 3–4, staining 4–5, dry rubbing 4 and light fastness 3–4. These assessments hold true across various factors such as the type of reducing sugar, alkali, pH and the number of dips. The optimised parameters leading to improved colour strength and fastness properties are also discussed.

This dyeing technique is novel and a green alternative to dithionite denim dyeing. This process is found to be useful for indigo dyeing of denim fabric leading to reduced and stable redox potential in the dyebath and acceptable colour strength of the dyed fabric.

Sulphur dyes are the most highly consumed colourants for cellulosic substrates owing to their reasonable cost and acceptable fastness. However, the use of noxious conventional reducing agent, sodium sulphide and impaired wash fastness against oxidative bleaching is gradually decreasing the market of these dyes. As the need for “Green” goods and services is raising public awareness, this paper aims to use a glucose-based biodegradable reducing agent in place of sodium sulphide to dye cotton fabrics with a range of commercial sulphur dyes. The study also proposes an aftertreatment method to improve the fastness properties of the dyeing.

The paper investigated the impact of a newly developed aftertreatment method on the fastness properties of dyeing. This involved the sequential application of a cationic fixing agent (Tinofix ECO) and tannin (Bayprotect CL) on the coloured fabrics and subsequent evaluation of colour strength, washing, light and rubbing fastness.

The effect of aftertreating the dyed cotton was found to significantly improve the light and wet rub fastness. The surface morphology of the dyeing remained unaffected as depicted by the absence of any finish residues.

The protective effect of the cation–tannin aftertreatments was examined with a view to providing the necessary commercial performance; however, it was established that the dry rub fastness was either reduced or remained unaffected and the wash fastness to International Organization for Standardization 105 C09 was also marginal.

This finishing technique is novel and can be found useful for manufacturing sulphur-dyed products with the improved light and wet rub fastness.

The study aims to test the color fastness of wool and linen fabrics dyed by simple immersion in ethanol dissolutions of fungal dyes.

Ethanol dissolutions of Talaromyces australis and Penicillium murcianum dyes were prepared to a concentration of 0.3% and used to dye wool and linen samples by immersion. Color fastness to washing, dry cleaning, wet and dry rubbing, perspiration and light, were tested according to AATCC standards.

Color fastness reached acceptable results at dry cleaning and wet and dry rubbing by crocking but did not performed well at laundering, perspiration and light exposure. Results indicate that ethanol dissolutions of tested dyes had better affinity for wool fabrics than linen, but the dyeing method requires further improvements to be considered attractive for full scale applications.

In this work sustainability of fabrics dyeing is improved by using natural pigments produced by filamentous fungi and a method to dye that requires no increment of temperature and mordants.