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Governance challenges in reverse value chain.
Abstract
Subject area
Governance challenges in reverse value chain.
Study level/applicability
Women employment system in textile and clothing industry.
Case overview
The textile and clothing firms, often frustrated by frequent labor issues, used an innovative employment scheme – Sumangali scheme – to employ young female workers from poor families in rural areas, aged between 18 and 25 years, as apprentices for three years who would stay in dormitories located in the vicinity of the factories, draw low wages with minimum benefits. But the scheme was criticized by labor unions and Europe- and US-based non-governmental organization (NGOs) on the grounds of alleged violation of labor rights such as freedom of association, freedom of movement, exploitative working conditions, low wages with minimum or no benefits, long working hours and abusive supervisors. Their public campaign against the alleged employment practices has put tremendous pressure on the global buyers to take steps to ameliorate the situation. In the wake of campaign by NGOs, few buyers have even terminated the relationship with the manufacturers. Others have warned action against those erring manufacturers. The actions by global buyers, NGOs against some of the women employment practices raised several questions in the minds of manufacturers. They were wondering why US- and Europe-based NGOs were up in arms to dump an employment scheme unmindful of socio-economic realities in India? Is it a clever ploy that developed nations use some private, voluntary, corporate social responsibility norms to stop companies purchasing textile and clothing products from a developing country like India on the grounds of violation of labor rights? As per the International Labor Organization (ILO) Convention No. 81, it is the responsibility of central/state governments to inspect and monitor labor employment practices in an industry. Then why NGOs and other private groups volunteer to become watch dogs of labor practices and launch campaigns against mills? Would it not undermine the role of government in ensuring industrial harmony? Even if NGOs' actions are justified on the grounds of moral and ethical principles, what role should they play when it comes to management–worker relationship? In the Indian context, only the government can interfere if the relationship turns sour? Should NGOs need to use a different set of ethical standards which are more relevant and contextual to the socio-economic environment in India?
Expected learning outcomes
To understand evolution of apparel global value chain and workforce development challenges in India; to explore the link between consumer activism and corporate social responsibility; to explore the challenge of addressing issues such as alleged human rights violation and labor exploitation by independent suppliers located in India; to explore the challenges faced by global buyers in contextualizing, operationalizing and realizing certain human rights along the supply chain located in India; and to explore sustainability challenges of women employment in textile and clothing mills in India.
Supplementary materials
Teaching notes are available for educators only. Please contact your library to gain login details or email support@emeraldinsight.com to request teaching notes.
Social implications
Sustenance of women employment system in India's textile and clothing industry and its associated challenges.
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Keywords
Rashmi Aggarwal, Harsahib Singh and Vinita Krishna
The case is written on the basis of published sources only.
Abstract
Research methodology
The case is written on the basis of published sources only.
Case overview/synopsis
Doodlage, a start-up incorporated in 2012 by Kriti Tula, Paras Arora and Vaibhav Kapoor, used discarded waste to create sustainable fashion products. It had a first-mover advantage in recycled fashion goods in the first 10 years of its existence. The company contributed to sustainable fashion by providing an alternative to fast fashion production, creating enormous clothing waste and environmental degradation. In the first quarter of 2022, it saved and reused 15,000 m of fabric waste. From 2018 to 2021, the company grew 150% annually, targeting the right customers and regions to expand its business. It ensured that postproduction industrial waste and postconsumption garments were used to produce clothes. It also confirmed that the waste generated in its fabric screening process was used to create stationery items and other valuable accessories.
However, the sustainable fashion model that gave the company a competitive advantage became obsolete in 2022 due to increasing competition in the industry as various players using unique ideas entered the market. The company is encountering operational and logistical challenges that are affecting its performance. The demand for its products was also subdued due to high prices of upcycled and recycled clothes and less consumer spending post-COVID pandemic. The competitors of Doodlage offered multiple products produced using environmentally friendly farming and manufacturing techniques, attracting sustainable purchasers. What should be the new portfolio of products for the company to explore future growth opportunities? Considering their vast price, can consumers be encouraged to buy upcycled clothes? How should the company ride the winds of change in the industry?
Complexity academic level
The instructor should initiate the class discussion by asking questions such as how frequently do you shop for clothes? Do you care about the fabric of your apparel? After you discard your clothes, do you think about where these goods finally end up? Data on the amount of total waste generated in the fashion industry should be communicated to students to connect it with the importance of the concept of circular economy. Post this, the instructor should introduce the business model of Doodlage to bring the discussion into the context of the fashion industry before going ahead to discuss the company’s dilemma.
Details
Keywords
Strategic management and social innovation
Abstract
Subject area
Strategic management and social innovation
Study level/applicability
Undergraduate and graduate level management/business school students. It can be taught in strategic management and social innovation courses.
Case overview
GOONJ is a non–profit organization which has life and dignity for lakhs of people in India over the last decade. It aimed at bringing up clothing as one of the important aspects of human life and make it available for the needy keeping their dignity intact. The case begins with Anshu Gupta, founder of GOONJ thinking deeply about the high–priority meeting to take GOONJ to the next level and scale up the operations of his social innovation. It then tries to bring up the potential problem of clothing and menstrual hygiene in India followed by explanation of the present working model of GOONJ which allows them to manage the operations with 97 paisa per cloth. With the dream of taking GOONJ to the next level and converting it into a nation–wide phenomenon, will the present model work?
Expected learning outcomes
This case will cover two important aspects: social innovation process (themes, challenges and implications for practice); and strategic management concepts (stakeholder theory, internal–external factor evaluation).
Supplementary materials
Teaching notes.
Details
Keywords
Pauline Assenza, Alan B. Eisner and Jerome C. Kuperman
Ann Taylor was founded in 1954, and its classic black dress and woman's power suit were staples for years. In 1995 Ann Taylor LOFT was launched to appeal to a more casual…
Abstract
Ann Taylor was founded in 1954, and its classic black dress and woman's power suit were staples for years. In 1995 Ann Taylor LOFT was launched to appeal to a more casual, costconscious consumer. Under Kay Krill's leadership, the division began to outperform the original flagship. When Krill was promoted to President/CEO of Ann Taylor Stores Corporation in 2005, she was challenged with rebuilding the Ann Taylor brand - (i.e., meeting the “wardrobing needs of the updated classic consumer”) while maintaining the image and market share of LOFT. By mid-2008, an additional problem appeared: the macroeconomic climate was posing considerable uncertainty, especially for retail businesses. Krill was firmly committed to long-term growth. However, given the 2008 situation, what could she do to unleash what she believed was the firm's “significant untapped potential”?
Yuri Taira, David J. Hardisty and Rui Jorge B. Basto da Silva
The authors analyzed data and information mainly from the company’s annual reports and the books written by the CEO.
Abstract
Research methodology
The authors analyzed data and information mainly from the company’s annual reports and the books written by the CEO.
Case overview/synopsis
How and when can a “value” brand upscale its brand image? In the wake of the financial crisis of 2007–2008, UNIQLO – Japan’s street fashion brand – considered introducing a new brand collaboration. They needed to capture the attention of younger, more fashionable consumers. However, people were tightening their spending as they faced uncertainties related to their jobs and wealth. Even though UNIQLO had had a steady growth in sales for the previous 24 years, it was questionable whether it was strategically a good time to launch a premium brand collaboration. And if so, who was the right partner? High-end designer Jil Sander, fashionable New York-based Theory or emerging French “casual luxury” brand Comptoir des Cotonniers?
Complexity academic level
This case is about the challenges faced by a low-priced brand to collaborate with a high-end brand to enhance the brand image. It explores the important elements to take into consideration when evaluating launching collaboration using the high-end brand’s name. The students will learn how to examine the risks and benefits of creating a new image for the core brand. If the students had learnt branding or brand extension before, this case can be used to teach how consumer’s perception affects brand extension and the target market’s impact on pricing and distribution strategies. It can be used for a marketing course at the MBA level to explore the concepts in a growing company’s brand image or an undergraduate specialized course in brand management or marketing management. The students also learn how the fashion industry’s supply chain management works to adapt to rapidly changing fashion trends.
Details
Keywords
Marketing.
Abstract
Subject area
Marketing.
Study level/applicability
The case is aimed at Business Administration students.
Case overview
Udaipur based Aavaran – the echos of rural India – is a concept by COS-V, a leading non-governmental organization (NGO), which aims at connecting the tribal women of rural India with the mainstream. The NGO, set up in 1988 by Smt. Girija Vyas, was initially involved in imparting vocational training to the rural poor. Later, COS-V was taken up by Alka Sharma, a graduate from the Indian Institute of Crafts and Design, Jaipur, who completely changed the direction of the NGO. Her interest in textiles and crafts led to the genesis of the concept “Aavaran”. Aavaran is a retail outlet which was opened with a vision to provide the Indian market with traditional yet contemporary textiles and clothing. It offers a collection of women's and children's clothing and home textiles using a variety of traditional textiles and crafts. It is an artisan driven concept where the supply chain incorporates the essence of Indian textiles and crafts at every level. From the dyeing, printing, sampling and assembly of garments everything is done by the local women trained by COS-V with the support of DC-Handicrafts. The raw materials – the textiles, grey fabrics, etc. – are sourced directly from the rural weavers and artisans across India. The case study discusses how Aavaran developed the unique positioning of a retail platform for contemporary products made from traditional techniques, skills and hand-based processes; how it could revive the diminishing arts of Dabu and Phetia and how it carved a niche through its channelized marketing efforts.
Expected learning outcomes
The case will familiarize management students with the concept of niche marketing with Udaipur based firm Aavaran as an example which developed a unique positioning through its traditionally developed products. It will also acquaint students with a basic understanding of a supply chain with a cooperative firm in focus.
Supplementary materials
Teaching notes are available for educators only. Please contact your library to gain login details or email support@emeraldinsight.com to request teaching notes.
Details
Keywords
Aldi Schoeman, Geoff Bick and Claire Barnardo
The learning outcomes of this paper are as follows: to define the scope of digital customer experience, why it is important and how it can be used to create a competitive…
Abstract
Learning outcomes
The learning outcomes of this paper are as follows: to define the scope of digital customer experience, why it is important and how it can be used to create a competitive advantage, to evaluate the various challenges for traditional retail businesses that undertake a digital transformation strategy, to critically assess a chosen digital transformation strategy, to identify the key features of a successful digital transformation strategy and to develop a crisis communication strategy.
Case overview/synopsis
The Cape Union Mart Group is a typical apparel retail company faced with the challenge of improving the digital customer experience and accelerating digital transformation in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic. Due to the pandemic, the demand for e-commerce increased dramatically. However, strict lockdown regulations forbade the delivery of clothing. When the lockdown was lifted, there was an order backlog of four weeks. To add to this challenge, the Group was in the midst of a technology update. They moved their entire information technology (IT) backbone to three clouds and, just a week before the lockdown, launched five new websites for its five different retail chains. The ultimate goal with the technology update was to give the company a competitive advantage by improving the customer experience. However, having to do this at an accelerated pace due to the pandemic posed a number of challenges. The case provides a vivid description of how the crisis unfolded and how Grant De Waal-Dubla, the executive of e-commerce and IT at the Group and his team responded to the challenges, together with the marketing team. Based on the success of e-commerce during the lockdown, the owners of the business then tasked Grant with new, aggressive growth targets. Whilst dealing with the aftermath of the lockdown, Grant’s main challenge is to develop a strategy to reach those targets.
Complexity academic level
The primary target audience for this case are postgraduate students enrolled on programmes such as Master of Business Administration or specialist masters in a business field such as marketing or strategy and also for Executive Education courses.
Supplementary materials
Teaching notes are available for educators only.
Subject code
CSS 11: Strategy.
Details
Keywords
As an Internet fashion brand, HSTYLE has developed into an Internet enterprise with annual sales of 1.5 billion RMB within 10 years, establishing its position as the top industry…
Abstract
As an Internet fashion brand, HSTYLE has developed into an Internet enterprise with annual sales of 1.5 billion RMB within 10 years, establishing its position as the top industry performer in China. This case studies HSTYLES' innovation in business model and organizational management. HSTYLE's workgroups have achieved the balance of responsibilities and rights in a small team of three members at minimum, while mobilizing the enthusiasm and initiative of the line managers with the support of public service sector. At the same time, HSTYLE enriches its brand style, establishes a fashion cloud platform, and integrates individual and organizational consumers into its existing fashion design, manufacturing and sales system.
John Luiz, Amanda Bowen and Claire Beswick
Sustainable development; business, government, and society.
Abstract
Subject area
Sustainable development; business, government, and society.
Study level/applicability
The case is designed to be taught to students at MBA and MA level.
Case overview
In February 2009, Justin Smith, manager of the good business journey at Woolworths, a leading South African department store, was a worried man. Woolworths had launched its five-year sustainability strategy just under two years before. After undertaking an impact assessment, Smith was concerned that the original targets – which covered transformation, social development, the environment and climate change – had been set without a clear understanding of exactly what it would take to achieve them. Woolworths had recently identified ten key risk areas that impacted on the achievement of its original goals. If the sustainability goals were not reached, Woolworths could lose credibility among its shareholders, staff, and consumers. What did Woolworths need to do to ensure that it achieved its sustainability goals? And had the company been too ambitious in the targets it had set initially, he wondered?
Expected learning outcomes
To examine the differences, if any, between sustainable development in South Africa and other developing nations and sustainable development in developed nations; to impart an understanding of sustainability in its broadest sense; to investigate the challenges in implementing sustainability strategies in business; to look at ways of measuring the success of sustainability strategies; and to explore whether and how sustainability strategies should differ across industry sectors and across companies.
Supplementary materials
Teaching notes.
Details
Keywords
Aliaa Bassiouny, Enjy Toma, Farida Dawood, Haneen Aljammali, Salim Seif El Nasr and Youssef Mohy El Din
The learning outcomes of this paper is as follows: understand the issues that faced private Egyptian textile producers following the January 2011 revolution and how that impacted…
Abstract
Learning outcomes
The learning outcomes of this paper is as follows: understand the issues that faced private Egyptian textile producers following the January 2011 revolution and how that impacted their business model. Evaluate whether Dice’s inorganic expansion through acquiring Alex Clothing Company is a sound strategic decision given the economic uncertainty in Egypt. Analyze the acquisition decision through projection evaluation techniques, including net present value (NPV), internal rate of return (IRR) and modified IRR (MIRR), to measure whether the acquisition will add value to Dice. Discuss non-financial issues post-acquisition that are not captured by traditional capital budgeting and project evaluation techniques.
Case overview/synopsis
Dice Manufacturing Company, an established and successful textile manufacturing family business, is facing an important investment decision with regard to inorganic expansion through the acquisition of Alex Clothing Company and its subsidiary United Dyers. The case is intended to be discussed in an undergraduate corporate finance class. The case setting is inside Dice Manufacturing Company, where one of the founders, Nagy Toma and his CFO Victor ElMalek are analyzing the acquisition decision in January 2015. The protagonist is Victor ElMalek, who has to recommend a course of action for the company owners. The case allows students to apply capital budgeting and project valuation methods to make a decision on whether the acquisition brings value to Dice and to analyze issues management can face post-acquisition. The case follows through the history of Dice, presenting its business model and changes that accompanied the 2011 revolution. It then moves on to outline the acquisition opportunity and provides data for students to analyze through traditional project valuation techniques, including NPV, IRR and MIRR.
Complexity academic level
Undergraduate.
Subject code
CSS 1: Accounting and Finance.
Supplementary materials
Teaching notes are available for educators only.
Details