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Open Access
Article
Publication date: 28 November 2023

Rudrajeet Pal and Erik Sandberg

The purpose of this study is to explore the antecedents of uncaptured sustainable value and strategies to generate opportunities to capture it in the circular supply chain of…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to explore the antecedents of uncaptured sustainable value and strategies to generate opportunities to capture it in the circular supply chain of post-consumer used clothing.

Design/methodology/approach

This study is based on an inductive analysis of 21 semi-structured interviews conducted with various stakeholders in the circular clothing supply chain (for-profit and not-for-profit) using the value mapping approach, as previously applied in the literature on sustainable business models.

Findings

Fifteen antecedents of uncaptured sustainable value, and thirteen value opportunity strategies were revealed that hinder or generate multi-dimensional value types. Economic value is impacted the most, while there is lack of explicit understanding of the impact of these antecedents and strategies on environmental and social value capture. From a multi-stakeholder perspective, the ecosystem is emerging as new for-profit actors are developing novel process technologies, while not-for-profit actors are consolidating their positions by offering new service options. There is also an emerging “coopetition” between the different stakeholders.

Research limitations/implications

More granularity in the different types of uncaptured value could be considered, and external supply chain stakeholders, such as the government, could be included, leading to more detailed value mapping.

Practical implications

This research provides practitioners with a value-mapping tool in circular clothing supply chains, thus providing a structured approach to explore, analyse and understand uncaptured value and value opportunities.

Originality/value

This extended value perspective draws upon the value-mapping approach from the sustainable business model literature and applies it in the context of the circular clothing supply chain. In doing so, this research illustrates circular clothing supply chains in a new way that facilitates an improved understanding of multi-dimensional and multi-stakeholder value for embedded actors.

Details

The International Journal of Logistics Management, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0957-4093

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 19 February 2024

Olga Gurova

This paper aims to answer the questions of what clothing practices related to sustainable fashion can be observed in young consumers' daily lives in Finland’s capital region and…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to answer the questions of what clothing practices related to sustainable fashion can be observed in young consumers' daily lives in Finland’s capital region and what prevents their further proliferation.

Design/methodology/approach

This is qualitative research that draws from 22 semi-structured interviews with high school students in the capital area of Finland. The data were analyzed with the use of thematic analysis, a flexible method of data analysis that allows for the extraction of categories from both theoretical concepts and data.

Findings

This paper contributes to studies of young people’s consumption with the practice theory approach, putting forward the category of following sustainable fashion as an integrative practice. The three-element model of the practice theory allows answering the question of challenges that prevent the practice from shaping. The paper further advances this approach by identifying a list of context-specific dispersed practices incorporated into sustainable fashion.

Practical implications

The study suggests practical ways of improving clothing consumption based on the practice theory approach and findings from empirical research. Sustainable practices require competences, knowledge and skills that the school, as an institution working closely with high school students, could help develop.

Originality/value

The study contributes to the current studies of sustainability and youth culture of consumption with a practice theory approach and findings, related to a particular context of a country from Northern Europe.

Details

Young Consumers, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1747-3616

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 February 2024

Yuran Jin, Xiaolin Zhu, Xiaoxu Zhang, Hui Wang and Xiaoqin Liu

3D printing has been warmly welcomed by clothing enterprises for its customization capacity in recent years. However, such clothing enterprises have to face the digital…

Abstract

Purpose

3D printing has been warmly welcomed by clothing enterprises for its customization capacity in recent years. However, such clothing enterprises have to face the digital transformation challenges brought by 3D printing. Since the business model is a competitive weapon for modern enterprises, there is a research gap between business model innovation and digital transformation challenges for 3D-printing garment enterprises. The aim of the paper is to innovate a new business model for 3D-printing garment enterprises in digital transformation.

Design/methodology/approach

A business model innovation canvas (BMIC), a new method for business model innovation, is used to innovate a new 3D-printing clothing enterprises business model in the context of digital transformation. The business model canvas (BMC) method is adopted to illustrate the new business model. The business model ecosystem is used to design the operating architecture and mechanism of the new business model.

Findings

First, 3D-printing clothing enterprises are facing digital transformation, and they urgently need to innovate new business models. Second, mass customization and distributed manufacturing are important ways of solving the business model problems faced by 3D-printing clothing enterprises in the process of digital transformation. Third, BMIC has proven to be an effective tool for business model innovation.

Research limitations/implications

The new mass deep customization-distributed manufacturing (MDC-DM) business model is universal. As such, it can provide an important theoretical reference for other scholars to study similar problems. The digital transformation background is taken into account in the process of business model innovation. Therefore, this is the first hybrid research that has been focused on 3D printing, garment enterprises, digital transformation and business model innovation. On the other hand, business model innovation is a type of exploratory research, which means that the MDC-DM business model’s application effect cannot be immediately observed and requires further verification in the future.

Practical implications

The new business model MDC-DM is not only applicable to 3D-printing garment enterprises but also to some other enterprises that are either using or will use 3D printing to enhance their core competitiveness.

Originality/value

A new business model, MDC-DM, is created through BMIC, which allows 3D-printing garment enterprises to meet the challenges of digital transformation. In addition, the original canvas of the MDC-DM business model is designed using BMC. Moreover, the ecosystem of the MDC-DM business model is constructed, and its operation mechanisms are comprehensively designed.

Details

European Journal of Innovation Management, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1460-1060

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 January 2023

Manoj Kumar Paras, Rudrajeet Pal and Daniel Ekwall

The process of redesigning is one of the essential steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. This paper aims to study the best practice of…

Abstract

Purpose

The process of redesigning is one of the essential steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. This paper aims to study the best practice of upcycling in the clothing industry. This study is an attempt to standardise upcycling/redesign process.

Design/methodology/approach

An exploratory approach was adopted to perform the research. This study draws on the multiple organisations involved in the upcycling of clothes. The organisations chosen for this study are located in Sweden and Romania using the snowball technique. Semi-structured interviews, direct and participatory observation approaches were used to collect information. The collected data are systematically analysed using NVivo 10 software.

Findings

This paper provides empirical insights into the diverse practices of upcycling. Process, product and demand-based were three fundamental approaches to performing the redesigning process. The fabric quality and durability, variations in size, colour and pattern, skills and efforts required in the extraction of parts and environmental consciousness and awareness were the main factors influencing upcycling process.

Research limitations/implications

The use of the European case may miss best practices from the other region. This study may help scholars to understand the method of upcycling. A practitioner of upcycling can use the findings to improve and standardise the existing process. This research is beneficial for society, as this leads to the reduction of textile wastage.

Originality/value

This paper conceptualises some of the best practices of clothes redesign. This provides a good insight for the organisation for the improvement in the redesign business.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 June 2023

Thamoda Geegamage, Achini Ranaweera and Rangika Halwatura

The fashion industry has been accused of being the second largest environmental polluter in the world. Millions of tons of post-consumer waste are dumped in landfills and garbage…

248

Abstract

Purpose

The fashion industry has been accused of being the second largest environmental polluter in the world. Millions of tons of post-consumer waste are dumped in landfills and garbage disposal sites each year. However, environmental concerns are emerging as a mainstream issue among modern-day consumers. This critical problem has prompted fashion retailers and brands to embrace sustainable practices to address consumers’ environmental concerns by reducing pollution. Given this background, this research aims to understand consumer’s perceptions of value towards second-hand fashion consumption in the context of Sri Lanka.

Design/methodology/approach

This exploratory study uses a qualitative approach to understand consumers’ perceptions of value towards second-hand fashion consumption.

Findings

This research uses the theoretical model of the means-end chain model and shows five consumer’s values of second-hand consumers: price-consciousness, consciousness on emotional bonds, comfortability consciousness, quality and brand consciousness and social and environmental consciousness. Furthermore, the authors show non-second-hand fashion consumers’ values as social status consciousness, hygienic consciousness, comfortability consciousness, quality and brand consciousness and self-expressive consciousness.

Originality/value

This research sheds some light on the emerging knowledge of second-hand consumption. This research further points out certain practical implications by drawing attention to a few opportunities and challenges associated with the second-hand fashion business within the Sri Lankan fashion retail sector, in particular when launching new fashion brands catering to second-hand fashion consumers.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 26 February 2024

Ana Julia Grilló-Méndez, Mercedes Marzo-Navarro and Marta Pedraja-Iglesias

To identify the risks associated by consumers with renting clothes.

Abstract

Purpose

To identify the risks associated by consumers with renting clothes.

Design/methodology/approach

A descriptive research with a quantitative approach was carried out. First, the measurement models of the variables involved in the proposed model were validated. After verifying the existence of the variables, the resulting model was finally estimated through structural equation modelling.

Findings

The results obtained establish the six dimensions that make up the problems associated by consumers with the clothing rental business model. These problems encompass various types of risks: financial, physical, performance, psychosocial, inconsistency with values and lifestyle, as well as lack of trust in the service provider. The results obtained show that only inconsistency, financial risk and physical risk have a significant effect on attitude. These performance risks, together with the consumer's attitude towards renting, have a negative effect on the intention to rent.

Originality/value

Factors that have a negative effect on attitude have been studied less than the facilitators of attitude. This is the first study in Spain.

Practical implications

The results will help managers to understand the adoption behaviours of these models.

Social implications

This study helps understand the social innovation needed to change consumers' relationship to clothing.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 February 2024

Ahmed Ashraf Zaidi and Rahul Chandra

In recent years, researchers and practitioners have paid a great deal of attention to the circular economy (CE) due to its potential social and environmental benefits. However…

Abstract

Purpose

In recent years, researchers and practitioners have paid a great deal of attention to the circular economy (CE) due to its potential social and environmental benefits. However, limited attention has been devoted in the literature to studying the barriers to CE implementation in the apparel retail industry in emerging and developing nations besides China. Consequently, the purpose of this paper is to analyse the barriers to implementing CE in the Indian garment retail market.

Design/methodology/approach

This exploratory study uses a comprehensive literature analysis to identify the micro-level impediments to CE adoption in India's garment retail industry. The study aims to identify these barriers using a Delphi process, consisting of three stages. The first stage involves literature reviews and expert opinions, while the second and third stages involve survey methods with 14 industry professionals and academics. The use of the two primary data sources allows for triangulation of the data, which improves the validity of the findings and enables broader conclusions to be drawn from the results.

Findings

This study indicates that the top three challenges to implementing CE principles in the Indian apparel retail industry are “standards and regulation barriers” (84%), “strategic barriers” (82%) and “supply chain management and technology barriers” (79%). Strategies for overcoming these obstacles include gaining top management support, coordinating supply chain components, training and employee motivation.

Research limitations/implications

This study considers only Indian apparel retail industry, and the practical implications could potentially limit the study to emerging Asian economies.

Originality/value

To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first research of its type to explore CE obstacles at the organizational level in the Indian garment retail business. Thus, it contributes to a greater understanding of the topic and enables practitioners to develop effective policies and business strategies for CE and sustainability.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 September 2022

Nokyeon Kim and Elizabeth Bye

This study aims to investigate the relationship between people’s socially and environmentally responsible apparel practices (SERAP) and valuing US made clothing, current…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to investigate the relationship between people’s socially and environmentally responsible apparel practices (SERAP) and valuing US made clothing, current perceptions of US made clothing and factors affecting apparel purchases.

Design/methodology/approach

An online survey was completed by 502 US consumer aged 18-65. Five factors were identified representing responsible apparel practices and US made clothing. Inter-factor correlations were tested. People’s perceptions toward US made clothing were examined through perceived quality, purchase experience and intentions to pay premium prices.

Findings

There was a positive correlation between SERAP and valuing US made clothing. Perceived quality of US apparel influenced both actual purchase and intentions to pay higher prices. Availability and affordability were major purchase factors.

Practical implications

US apparel companies that produce their products domestically may consider developing specific messaging that resonates with customers, taking advantage of the perception of high quality and being transparent with the cost of producing apparel domestically.

Originality/value

This study suggests domestically made apparel purchases as part of a move toward SERAP. Although previous studies have addressed consumer responsibility and sustainable businesses, the connection has been inconclusive. This study provides current data of renewed and growing interest in US made apparel and expands its value.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 December 2023

Sofia Salvado Antunes, Cristela Maia Bairrada and Susana Garrido

Aim of this study is to examine how environmental concern and perceived consumer effectiveness (PCE) mediate the effect of consumer optimism and pessimism on Generation Z's…

Abstract

Purpose

Aim of this study is to examine how environmental concern and perceived consumer effectiveness (PCE) mediate the effect of consumer optimism and pessimism on Generation Z's intention to purchase sustainable clothes.

Design/methodology/approach

A survey was administered to 247 Gen Z students using a quantitative methodology. Structural equation modeling was used for hypothesis testing.

Findings

The examination of findings provides support for the idea that both optimism and pessimism have a direct impact on environmental concerns and perceived consumer effectiveness. Additionally, it reveals that environmental concerns and perceived consumer effectiveness play a positive role in influencing sustainable clothing purchases.

Originality/value

This study is one of the first marketing studies to explore the relationship between personality traits, environmental concerns and the intention to purchase sustainable clothing, providing insight into their relationship.

Research limitations/implications

Some methodological limitations impact the contributions of this cross-sectional investigation. It only tested a few variables predicting the intention to purchase sustainable clothing.

Practical implications

This research provides decision-makers, including marketers, with insights on leveraging dispositional traits to increase consumers' purchase intention of sustainable clothing.

Results

Environmental concerns and PCE have a positive effect on sustainable clothing purchases, which are influenced by both optimism and pessimism.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 February 2024

Aşkin Özdağoğlu, Eda Acar, Mücella Güner and Ayşegül Çetmeli Bakadur

The textile industry harms the environment at every stage of production, from the acquisition of raw materials to the disposal of finished products. It is very important for the…

Abstract

Purpose

The textile industry harms the environment at every stage of production, from the acquisition of raw materials to the disposal of finished products. It is very important for the textile industry to adapt to the basic policies on environmental sensitivity and sustainability to keep up with the transformation in production processes and the rapid changes occurring around the world in order to exist in global competition. Within the scope of sustainable development goals, it is of great importance to measure and evaluate indicators of all processes of the sector. This paper aims to present application of multi-criteria decision making (MCDM) methods for the assessment of sustainable development in textile industry.

Design/methodology/approach

The data of a multinational clothing company’s four-year sustainability performance between 2018 and 2021 were evaluated under 22 sustainability parameters determined using two new MCDM techniques, namely the combined consensus solution method and multi-attribute ideal real comparative analysis. In determining the criteria, priority key indicators were determined by taking into account the sector’s relationship with the environment, raw material consumption and social adequacy.

Findings

According to the application results of both methods, the year 2021 shows the best performance. It has been seen that the sustainability performance of the Inditex group has increased over the years and the results of the applied models support each other. It can be suggested that the proposed approach be applied to evaluate the progress in the textile sector with the relevant data on a particular company or on a macro scale.

Originality/value

This study makes an important contribution to the field in terms of the fact that the methods used are recent and have no application in the field of textiles. It allows the evaluation of different sustainability criteria together using a single method. It is very important to share data on sustainability indicators with customers, employees, suppliers, investors, partner organizations and society and evaluate performance. Analyzing sustainability performance on the basis of annual reports is important in terms of identifying good practices, sharing them with the community and setting an example. In addition, using scientific methods in the evaluation of the sustainability report data published by companies regularly provides significant feedback for policymakers and academics.

Details

Management of Environmental Quality: An International Journal, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1477-7835

Keywords

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