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The purpose of this paper is to explore factors affecting secondhand clothing acquisition among a sample of US female consumers based on an economic perspective.

This research is descriptive in nature, utilizing a survey of 500 US female consumers to explore relationships between five modes of secondhand clothing acquisition and selected consumer characteristics. Logistic regression was used to analyze the data.

The significant variables were income, age, number of toddlers and children ages 6-17 present in households, and sewing and repair skills. Income was found to be negatively related to purchasing secondhand clothing, suggesting that consumers view used clothing as an inferior good. Consumers in Gen Y were more likely to be involved in various means of secondhand clothing acquisition, holding income constant, than Baby Boomers.

Overcoming the stigma of inferiority associated with secondhand clothing, encouraging repair skills, and the repair of clothing, reaching out to consumers to build on their interest in DIY projects, and utilizing new technology (e.g. apps for sharing clothes) are practical implications.

The paper examined multiple modes of clothing acquisition rather than a single mode, and contributes insight regarding the economic concept of secondhand clothing as an inferior good.

This study aims to examine the conceptual distinction of two clothing orientations – style orientation and fashion orientation. Style and fashion orientations both express identity and individuality, but the fashion orientation may more strongly reflect materialistic values, which extensive evidence shows are detrimental to well-being. This study investigates how the clothing orientations are associated with materialism and subjective well-being.

The conceptual distinction between style and fashion orientations and their associations with materialism and subjective well-being were investigated via an online survey (N = 4,591) conducted in Germany, Poland, Sweden and the USA. Participants aged 18–65 were recruited based on national representative quotas for age, gender, education and region.

The regression results support a conceptual distinction between the style and fashion orientation. Style orientation was positively associated with subjective well-being compared to fashion orientation. Both the style and fashion orientations were positively correlated with materialism, but the association was much stronger for fashion orientation and materialism exhibited a strong negative association with subjective well-being. Interestingly, materialism moderated the association between fashion orientation and well-being but not between style orientation and well-being.

The four examined countries were Western, and, thus, the findings cannot be generalized to other populations. In addition, this study specifically examined relationships in a clothing context. To enable wider generalization, the relationships tested must be explored in other countries, especially non-Western, and also across other product categories.

The findings of this study can help retailers develop their marketing programs, product and service offerings and specifically their communications more closely targeted to consumers’ clothing orientations.

This study contributes by conceptually distinguishing between clothing style and fashion orientations and investigating their divergent associations to materialism and subjective well-being. This research also raises the question of whether fashion orientation is independent or rather, an aspect of materialism, which has implications for other consumption domains as well.

The purpose of this paper is to examine the acquisition of clothing through informal trading channels by provincial working‐class consumers between 1800 and 1850. It argues that the informal trade fulfilled various functions for such consumers, both as buyers and sellers: clothing could be sold to raise cash quickly and bought at a cheap price, while the informal trade may also have reinforced local community networks and other social relationships.

The paper focuses on the counties of Herefordshire and Worcestershire to provide a case study that highlights any differences in informal networks arising out of geographical variations. Documentation for the informal trade has been gathered from records of court cases and newspaper reporting of criminal trials involving stolen clothing.

The informal trade in clothing involved everyday, ordinary clothing, usually sold for money, but often for goods in kind and/or social credit. The trade operated over all areas of the two counties and seems to have been an important method for acquiring cheap clothing where retail provision was not yet fully developed to cater for all social classes.

The link between all facets of retailing is highlighted, as is the importance of placing informal trading networks within their local retailing environment. Their success relied on participants' knowledge about the goods, on trust in each other and often on expectations of mutuality. The informal trade was an important strategy for working‐class clothing acquisition in both rural and urban areas. The trade in illicit clothing formed a large proportion of the informal trade, and its analysis also sheds light on the informal trade in licit clothing.

The learning outcomes of this paper is as follows: understand the issues that faced private Egyptian textile producers following the January 2011 revolution and how that impacted their business model. Evaluate whether Dice’s inorganic expansion through acquiring Alex Clothing Company is a sound strategic decision given the economic uncertainty in Egypt. Analyze the acquisition decision through projection evaluation techniques, including net present value (NPV), internal rate of return (IRR) and modified IRR (MIRR), to measure whether the acquisition will add value to Dice. Discuss non-financial issues post-acquisition that are not captured by traditional capital budgeting and project evaluation techniques.

Dice Manufacturing Company, an established and successful textile manufacturing family business, is facing an important investment decision with regard to inorganic expansion through the acquisition of Alex Clothing Company and its subsidiary United Dyers. The case is intended to be discussed in an undergraduate corporate finance class. The case setting is inside Dice Manufacturing Company, where one of the founders, Nagy Toma and his CFO Victor ElMalek are analyzing the acquisition decision in January 2015. The protagonist is Victor ElMalek, who has to recommend a course of action for the company owners. The case allows students to apply capital budgeting and project valuation methods to make a decision on whether the acquisition brings value to Dice and to analyze issues management can face post-acquisition. The case follows through the history of Dice, presenting its business model and changes that accompanied the 2011 revolution. It then moves on to outline the acquisition opportunity and provides data for students to analyze through traditional project valuation techniques, including NPV, IRR and MIRR.

Undergraduate.

CSS 1: Accounting and Finance.

Teaching notes are available for educators only.

Buying secondhand clothing is not only interesting for consumers wanting to save money but also for sustainable clothing enthusiasts. It is now among a number of consumption practices which slow down fast fashion production while saving 10 to 20 times the energy (Fletcher, 2008, p. 100). While most of the recent scholarly work focuses on secondhand consumers (Bianchi & Birtwistle, 2010; Franklin, 2011; Norum, 2015), this paper aims to examine business activities. This perspective from economic anthropology enhances understandings of secondhand clothing, as research to-date has tended to neglect the semiotic function of clothing while underlining exchanges. To gain insight into the dynamics of the sector in Germany today, two businesses from Hamburg have been ethnographically examined by the author since 2014. This study outlines their work practices and explains the development of this high-end segment of the market from the 1970s until the digital age. For businesses, the digitalization of the trade has had massive effects on their business practice because it seems to solve inherent problems connected to the selling of pre-owned clothing. I argue that the digitalization did not only promote acceptance of buying secondhand clothing in Germany but also the emergence of new businesses models.

Social enterprises (SEs), part of the third sector, are hybrid organizations combining the pursuit of social scopes with commercial business solutions. In seeking for social value, they pair for-profit and non-profit features, thereby compensating for shortcomings of both the public sector and the commercial market. Therefore, the performance management of such organizations assumes a crucial relevance. Among the available tools, the balanced scorecard (BSC) aims to capture performance multidimensionality, at the same time fostering legitimacy towards stakeholders.

In general terms, the BSC has the limit to follow a linear and static logic of construction and functioning. For this reason, scholars combine it with system dynamics (SD) to create dynamic balanced scorecards (DBSCs). However, literature seems to devote scarce attention to the adoption of such analytic tools in the third sector, particularly in SEs. This chapter wants to contribute to bridging this gap by proposing a tailored application in the context of a social cooperative, active in the clothing recycle and in the re-integration of disadvantaged social categories. By referring to previous literature about DBSC, two modelling strategies are identified: the BSC-driven and the SD-driven. The latter, based on inductive reasoning, is the one privileged for the study because of its wider flexibility. The modelling outputs consider different perspectives than the ones within traditional BSCs, contain elements of circular causality and show how financial and non-financial performances interplay and co-determine each other. Insights from the proposed model can be useful to support both decision-making and stakeholder engagement.

Second-hand clothing (SHC) has kindled a growing interest among researchers and practitioners. However, despite all the benefits that this market presents, consumer adherence still has considerable room for improvement. Several studies have explored the main motivations that lead consumers to buy second-hand clothes (SHCs), but few have focused on the factors that prevent consumers from adopting this consumption behavior. Hence, this study aims to identify barriers through the differences in the perception of experienced and inexperienced consumers in SHC purchases.

Data collected through an online questionnaire from 127 cases were analyzed using means comparison and binomial logistic regression.

The findings of this study revealed that having previous experience in purchasing SHCs influences consumers' perception of the barriers. The results also indicate that social embarrassment is the factor that most negatively influences the purchase of SHCs, as well as the consumers' lack of knowledge regarding the available channels.

Considering the importance of the SHC market and its potential, this study reveals what motivates and at the same time prevents consumers from acquiring SHCs. Original findings regarding the importance of channel familiarity and social embarrassment assist companies in defining their marketing strategies and enhancing the consumer experience in the purchase of SHCs.

The demand for second-hand clothing has risen rapidly in the past few years. Yet, the understanding of the motivations of consumers buying second-hand clothing is very limited. The purpose of this study is to propose and empirically test an integrated model of the theory of planned behaviour and the theory of consumption values to explain consumers' intention to buy second-hand clothing.

Data (n = 290) are collected from consumers in Malaysia and analysed by partial least squares structural equation modelling (PLS-SEM).

Results of this study show that attitudes towards second-hand clothing, injunctive norms, descriptive norms, moral norms, and perceived behavioural control have a significant positive influence on consumers' intention to buy second-hand clothing. Furthermore, emotional value and environmental value are found to have a significant positive influence on attitudes. However, no support is found for the positive influence of social value and epistemic value on attitudes.

The study confirms that the integrated model is useful in explaining consumers' intention to buy second-hand clothing. Furthermore, this study also provides some valuable suggestions to practitioners.

The purpose of this paper is to explore the key features of fashion rental from a business model perspective with a focus on the role played by digital platforms.

A qualitative research design was used based on multiple case studies of three Italian fashion rental enterprises.

The findings reveal the key aspects characterizing fashion rental business models and the centrality of digital platforms in value creation, configuration and capture activities. The study also found that fashion rental platforms are likely to exhibit further successful development in the future.

The academic literature on fashion rental has been mainly focussed on examining consumers' motivations and concerns, paying little attention to the enterprise's viewpoint. To date, no previous study has examined fashion rental business models from the retailer's perspective. This paper is the first to explore the key components of fashion rental business models and how digital platforms influence them from the perspective of retailers. The originality of the study is further strengthened by the unique context of analysis, namely, Italy, a leading country for global fashion.

The view that alternative retail channels (i.e. informal and/or second‐hand modes of goods acquisition) are used out of economic necessity by disadvantaged consumers has been recently opposed by cultural theorists who instead read such channels in agency‐oriented terms as places of fun, sociality, distinction, discernment, the spectacular and so forth. To evaluate these contrasting perspectives, this paper reports data from 350 interviews conducted in rural England. Finding that the agency‐oriented view of alternative retail channels is valid amongst higher‐income populations but economic necessity remains the principal motive amongst lower‐income populations, this paper concludes that, for a fuller understanding to be achieved, the dualistic “either/or” debates between those promulgating economic necessity and those emphasising choice need to be replaced by a “both/and” approach sensitive to the variations in the meanings of such channels.