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The final goal of this study is to virtualize draping. Draping which is one of the methods to design paper patterns for clothing requires much labor and time. The sub-goal of this study is to construct a system in which the fundamental functions of draping are equipped.

The system is realized in the virtual world by integrating the virtualized elements of real draping. The cloth is modeled by mechanical formulation, and the shape is determined by numerical calculation. The hand is geometrically modeled, and the captured motions of the hand and fingers are applied to the model. The model dress form is made from the data by measurement. The system in which darts can be made in the virtual space is constructed by integrating the models.

It is confirmed that the cloth model in the virtual world can be manipulated by the motions of the fingers in the real world. And it is suggested that it is possible to design practical paper patterns for clothing by adding functions to the system.

We are aiming at the system to design paper patterns by the movements of the fingers. With this system, it is expected that the efficiency in designing paper patterns is much improved, and it becomes possible to design clothing that fits individuals efficiently.

Drape is a characteristic behaviour of flexible cloth, so it is important in modelling cloth. The paper introduces a novel method to model drape using a few shape parameters, predicted according to the pattern structure and mechanical properties of cloth. The technique is used to visualize the 3‐D drapeability of cloth and is then extended to simulation of a skirt. The general shape of a flared skirt of large deformation is predicted based on several shape parameters. Moreover, the constructed skirt model is used as pre‐draped initial shape for the popular physically‐based model – particle system. Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) plots of cloth are applied for accurate mechanical calculation. The simulated results show good agreement with actual cloth materials.

Draping is one method used in clothing design. It is important to virtualize draping in real time, and virtual cloth handling is a key technology for this purpose. A mouse is often used for real-time cloth handling in many studies. However, gesture manipulation is more realistic than movements using the mouse. The purpose of this paper is to demonstrate virtual cloth manipulation using hand gestures in the real world.

In this study, the authors demonstrate three types of manipulation: moving, cutting, and attaching. The user’s hand coordinates are obtained with a Kinect, and the cloth model is manipulated by them. The cloth model is moved based on the position of the hand coordinates. The cloth model is cut along a cut line calculated from the hand coordinates. In attaching the cloth model, it is mapped to a dummy model and then part of the cloth model is fixed and another part is released.

This method can move the cloth model according to the motion of the hands. The authors have succeeded in cutting the cloth model based on the hand trajectory. The cloth model can be attached to the dummy model and its form is changed along the dummy model shape.

Cloth handling in many studies is based on indirect manipulation using a mouse. In this study, the cloth model is manipulated according to hand motion in the real world in real time.

Reviews a new approach being developed for modelling the dynamic behaviour of cloth. This work extends the cloth‐particle static draping model of Breen and House to include dynamics, and extends constrained dynamics simulation techniques developed by Witkin, Gleicher and Welch to yield performance enhancements. Fundamental to this approach is a new hierarchical approximation algorithm for constrained dynamics simulation which, it is hoped, will reduce the computational time demands of the algorithm to near real‐time range.

Most of the cloth simulation and modelling techniques rely on the energy function of the system. The geometric deformation is related to the energy function by the fabric material characteristics, which are usually difficult to measure directly. This paper discusses how the fabric material properties are related to the measurable mechanical properties of the fabric such as tensile modulus, Poisson's ratio etc. These properties are incorporated into a cloth simulator to produce draping results. The simulated image and real object are then compared to show the realism.

Uses Newmark’s method to carry out a time‐stepping finite element analysis to predict the behaviour of a cloth garment as it falls from an initial horizontal position to a final position draped around a human body form. Bases the finite element model on a simple beam element, in order to minimize the computational time. Accounts for large displacement behaviour by including the element geometric stiffness. Bases the body form on anthropomorphic data produced by a shadow scanner. Enlists a novel scheme to model the contact between the cloth and the underlying body form. Uses the finite element model to provide data for an animated display and finds that it produces sufficiently realistic results for the garment designer’s purposes.

An improved mathematical programming method for numerical simulation of cloth wrinkling is investigated.

Cloth is modeled as the network of bars (called bar network) or membrane elements with a special nonlinear mechanical constitutive law in the finite element analysis.

Compared with conventional numerical methods, the proposed method does not depend on stress iteration, but on the base exchanges in the solution of a standard quadratic programming problem. Thus, the new method presents very good convergence behavior and accurate predictions of wrinkling patterns and stress distributions of cloths. Numerical results demonstrate the validity and the efficiency of the proposed method.

From the engineering point of view, accurate numerical methods are required in wrinkling analysis of cloth deformation. The algorithm developed here also can be applied into fields such as large deformation under wind load and dynamic behaviors of cloths.

True 3‐D garment design (CAD) systems are fundamental for the next generation of intelligent textile and garment manufacture and retailing. Reports a new approach for modelling fabric. The fabric model is developed based on a physical analogue to a deep shell system for describing and predicting the real 3‐D shape of clothes. The fabric motion is determined by deformation energy, gravity and external constraints, such as collision forces, using the deformable node bar concept. The advantages of this model are that engineering parameters can be used as model parameters directly and that the model is configured based on the surface co‐ordinate system, which is believed to be important as the basis of a powerful fashion CAD system. The model successfully simulated fabric drape and has been implemented on a synthetic female model.

Strategic management and social innovation

Undergraduate and graduate level management/business school students. It can be taught in strategic management and social innovation courses.

GOONJ is a non–profit organization which has life and dignity for lakhs of people in India over the last decade. It aimed at bringing up clothing as one of the important aspects of human life and make it available for the needy keeping their dignity intact. The case begins with Anshu Gupta, founder of GOONJ thinking deeply about the high–priority meeting to take GOONJ to the next level and scale up the operations of his social innovation. It then tries to bring up the potential problem of clothing and menstrual hygiene in India followed by explanation of the present working model of GOONJ which allows them to manage the operations with 97 paisa per cloth. With the dream of taking GOONJ to the next level and converting it into a nation–wide phenomenon, will the present model work?

This case will cover two important aspects: social innovation process (themes, challenges and implications for practice); and strategic management concepts (stakeholder theory, internal–external factor evaluation).

Teaching notes.

The purpose of this paper is to conduct a survey on research in fabric and cloth simulation using mass spring model. Also in this paper some of the common methods in process of fabric simulation in mass spring model are discussed and compared.

This paper reviews and compares presented mesh types in mass spring model, forces applied on model, super elastic effect and ways to settle the super elasticity problem, numerical integration methods for solving equations, collision detection and its response. Some of common methods in fabric simulation are compared to each other. And by using examples of fabric simulation, advantages and limitations of each technique are mentioned.

Mass spring method is a fast and flexible technique with high ability to simulate fabric behavior in real time with different environmental conditions. Mass spring model has more accuracy than geometrical models and also it is faster than other physical modeling.

In the edge of digital, fabric simulation technology has been considered into many fields. 3D fabric simulation is complex and its implementation requires knowledge in different fields such as textile engineering, computer engineering and mechanical engineering. Several methods have been presented for fabric simulation such as physical and geometrical models. Mass spring model, the typical physically based method, is one of the methods for fabric simulation which widely considered by researchers.