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Drape is a characteristic behaviour of flexible cloth, so it is important in modelling cloth. The paper introduces a novel method to model drape using a few shape parameters, predicted according to the pattern structure and mechanical properties of cloth. The technique is used to visualize the 3‐D drapeability of cloth and is then extended to simulation of a skirt. The general shape of a flared skirt of large deformation is predicted based on several shape parameters. Moreover, the constructed skirt model is used as pre‐draped initial shape for the popular physically‐based model – particle system. Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) plots of cloth are applied for accurate mechanical calculation. The simulated results show good agreement with actual cloth materials.

In the trend from mass production to mass customization, more flexible production systems are required. In the clothing field, many studies about automatization of sewing processes have been done into producing small amounts of various kinds of products. The purpose of this paper is to propose a versatile guiding mechanism of a cloth for an automatic sewing system.

Real sewing processes were referenced for the mechanism, and curved stitch is formed holding a point on a cloth. This mechanism consists of a solenoid for holding a cloth and a roller to prevent deformation of the cloth. When a cloth is sewn with the mechanism, the trajectory of the stitch is unstable because of anisotropy of a cloth. A precise trajectory was obtained by adding a device to control the pressure of the roller for holding a cloth and keeping a tension properly applied to a cloth.

It was found out that shearing property is the most related to the stability of sewing trajectory. If the tension for guidance applied to a cloth is constant, deformation of the cloth was observed and it was the cause of unstableness of sewing trajectory. By controlling the tension for guidance applied to a cloth properly according to the direction of the cloth, precise sewing trajectory was obtained.

There have been some studies in which sewing conditions were dynamically controlled according to the mechanical properties of a cloth. To these studies, here it was proposed that sewing conditions were kept constant by controlling the guidance of a cloth according to its mechanical properties.

The final goal of this study is to virtualize draping. Draping which is one of the methods to design paper patterns for clothing requires much labor and time. The sub-goal of this study is to construct a system in which the fundamental functions of draping are equipped.

The system is realized in the virtual world by integrating the virtualized elements of real draping. The cloth is modeled by mechanical formulation, and the shape is determined by numerical calculation. The hand is geometrically modeled, and the captured motions of the hand and fingers are applied to the model. The model dress form is made from the data by measurement. The system in which darts can be made in the virtual space is constructed by integrating the models.

It is confirmed that the cloth model in the virtual world can be manipulated by the motions of the fingers in the real world. And it is suggested that it is possible to design practical paper patterns for clothing by adding functions to the system.

We are aiming at the system to design paper patterns by the movements of the fingers. With this system, it is expected that the efficiency in designing paper patterns is much improved, and it becomes possible to design clothing that fits individuals efficiently.

The following classified, annotated list of titles is intended to provide reference librarians with a current checklist of new reference books, and is designed to supplement the RSR review column, “Recent Reference Books,” by Frances Neel Cheney. “Reference Books in Print” includes all additional books received prior to the inclusion deadline established for this issue. Appearance in this column does not preclude a later review in RSR. Publishers are urged to send a copy of all new reference books directly to RSR as soon as published, for immediate listing in “Reference Books in Print.” Reference books with imprints older than two years will not be included (with the exception of current reprints or older books newly acquired for distribution by another publisher). The column shall also occasionally include library science or other library related publications of other than a reference character.

An improved mathematical programming method for numerical simulation of cloth wrinkling is investigated.

Cloth is modeled as the network of bars (called bar network) or membrane elements with a special nonlinear mechanical constitutive law in the finite element analysis.

Compared with conventional numerical methods, the proposed method does not depend on stress iteration, but on the base exchanges in the solution of a standard quadratic programming problem. Thus, the new method presents very good convergence behavior and accurate predictions of wrinkling patterns and stress distributions of cloths. Numerical results demonstrate the validity and the efficiency of the proposed method.

From the engineering point of view, accurate numerical methods are required in wrinkling analysis of cloth deformation. The algorithm developed here also can be applied into fields such as large deformation under wind load and dynamic behaviors of cloths.

Draping is one method used in clothing design. It is important to virtualize draping in real time, and virtual cloth handling is a key technology for this purpose. A mouse is often used for real-time cloth handling in many studies. However, gesture manipulation is more realistic than movements using the mouse. The purpose of this paper is to demonstrate virtual cloth manipulation using hand gestures in the real world.

In this study, the authors demonstrate three types of manipulation: moving, cutting, and attaching. The user’s hand coordinates are obtained with a Kinect, and the cloth model is manipulated by them. The cloth model is moved based on the position of the hand coordinates. The cloth model is cut along a cut line calculated from the hand coordinates. In attaching the cloth model, it is mapped to a dummy model and then part of the cloth model is fixed and another part is released.

This method can move the cloth model according to the motion of the hands. The authors have succeeded in cutting the cloth model based on the hand trajectory. The cloth model can be attached to the dummy model and its form is changed along the dummy model shape.

Cloth handling in many studies is based on indirect manipulation using a mouse. In this study, the cloth model is manipulated according to hand motion in the real world in real time.

The following classified, annotated list of titles is intended to provide reference librarians with a current checklist of new reference books, and is designed to supplement the RSR review column, “Recent Reference Books,” by Frances Neel Cheney. “Reference Books in Print” includes all additional books received prior to the inclusion deadline established for this issue. Appearance in this column does not preclude a later review in RSR. Publishers are urged to send a copy of all new reference books directly to RSR as soon as published, for immediate listing in “Reference Books in Print.” Reference books with imprints older than two years will not be included (with the exception of current reprints or older books newly acquired for distribution by another publisher). The column shall also occasionally include library science or other library related publications of other than a reference character.

Cloth fell distance is an effective parameter on controlling pick density during weaving process. The purpose of this study is developing a novel, simple and economic system to measure the cloth fell distance from the front position of the reed in each cycle of weaving process dynamically.

This novel system consists of optical sensors used to measure difference between time the reed reaches the cloth fell and time the reed reaches the front. To interpret this time difference to cloth fell distance, reed motion equation has been used. The reed motion curve in terms of angular position of the crankshaft can be calculated by mathematical analysis.

This method combining the electronic components and mechanical mechanism of reed motion measures the cloth fell distance online.

This simple and economic method can be used in all types of weaving machine. High accuracy and high speed processing in comparison to previous reported methods are the most advantages of this new real‐time system.

The following classified, descriptive list of titles is intended to provide reference librarians with a current checklist of new reference books, and is designed to supplement the RSR review column, “Recent Reference Books,” by Frances Neel Cheney. “Reference Books in Print” includes all additional books received prior to the inclusion deadline established for this issue. Appearance in this column does not preclude a later review in RSR. Publishers are urged to send a copy of all new reference books directly to RSR as soon as published, for immediate listing in “Reference Books in Print.” The prevailing policy of including all reference books received has temporarily allowed the listing of titles with imprints older than two years; with increased receipt of more current titles from a longer list of publishers, this policy will soon be discontinued (with the exception of reprints or older books newly acquired for distribution by another publisher). The column shall also occasionally include library science or other library related publications of other than a reference character.

The present research aims to investigate parental attitudes towards using either cloth or disposable nappies, to better understand whether and how pro‐cloth initiatives might impact parental decisions.

Focus groups were conducted with both cloth and disposable nappy users to gain a better understanding of the factors that underlie their choice. Interviews were analyzed using thematic analysis.

The paper finds that parents using disposable nappies believed they were marketed as offering a popular, efficient, healthy, good value system. They acknowledged the environmental impact but rationalised this by referring to the equivocal nature of these consequences, and the ability to off‐set this by engaging in other pro‐environment behaviours. Parents choosing cloth nappies did so initially because they were more environment‐friendly and cost‐effective and disposables were disliked. Once using cloth, parents noted additional benefits: performance, fashion, formation of bonds with other users, and getting a buzz out of using them. This reinforced their reasons for continued use.

Cloth nappies are unlikely to gain mass appeal, but findings suggest a bigger take up if parents are better informed, and subsidies are provided to reduce set‐up and laundering costs to tackle the “ease of use” barrier. The positive aspects of cloth nappies should be better promoted.

Marketing initiatives need to buy into the current “designer parents” trend and play to the aspirational, fashionable aspects of cloth nappies.

This paper, the first to report on parental attitudes and decisions regarding both nappy types, could inform public policy and marketing decisions.