Search results

1 – 10 of 610
To view the access options for this content please click here
Article
Publication date: 22 May 2007

Edita Vujasinović, Zeljka Janković, Zvonko Dragčević, Igor Petrunić and Dubravko Rogale

Today when the newest high‐tech fibers and sophisticated material constructions are used for the production of sails, forming 3D sail shape from 2D sailcloth has still…

Abstract

Purpose

Today when the newest high‐tech fibers and sophisticated material constructions are used for the production of sails, forming 3D sail shape from 2D sailcloth has still remained very primitive because classic sewing techniques are mostly used. Since, the clothing and technical textile industry has been recently using some of contemporary joining techniques (ultrasonic, thermal, high‐frequency) replacing classic sewing, this paper seeks to investigate the possibility of ultrasonic welding in the production of sails, and the strength of obtained bonds.

Design/methodology/approach

Concerning the aim, sails were made employing the classic and modern (ultrasonic) joining technique whereby bonding parameters such as amplitude and welding speed, geometry of anvil wheels were varied. Objective quality evaluation of the bond made in such a way, was performed in order to be more exact about its strength.

Findings

Based on the obtained results it has been concluded that ultrasonic welding may successfully replace the classic sewing of sails, selecting an anvil wheel with suitable engraving and optimal parameters of welding (speed and amplitude).

Practical implications

Selection of optimal welding parameters not only increases the sail's bond strength in comparison with classic seam, but also provides sail air impermeability, being one of the basic aerodynamic requirements for sail making.

Originality/value

This paper has presented the novel and successful approach in 3D sail shape forming from 2D sailcloth.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 19 no. 3/4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

To view the access options for this content please click here
Article
Publication date: 7 August 2017

Selin Hanife Eryuruk, Burçak Karagüzel Kayaoglu and Fatma Kalaoglu

Surgical gowns should be designed and produced using special techniques to provide barrier properties against potential risks during surgery and healthcare procedures…

Abstract

Purpose

Surgical gowns should be designed and produced using special techniques to provide barrier properties against potential risks during surgery and healthcare procedures. Ultrasonic welding is one of these methods used to produce surgical gowns with determined barrier properties. The purpose of this paper is to analyse bond strength and permeability properties of ultrasonically welded nonwoven fabrics and compare them with traditional sewing techniques.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, ultrasonic welding of nonwovens was performed to demonstrate its use as an assembly method. Performance requirements in the design of surgical gowns were determined. Fabric strengths and bond strengths of ultrasonic-welded and traditionally sewn fabrics were analysed. The performance properties, i.e., bond strength, air and water resistance of the fabrics and the joints obtained by ultrasonic and classical sewing methods were studied.

Findings

As a result, it was found that ultrasonic welding technique is a suitable method for joining layers in surgical gown production bringing the advantages of high water resistance together with acceptable bond strength.

Originality/value

The current study focuses on the use of ultrasonic welding of nonwovens used for disposable protective surgical gowns. Ultrasound welding technique was presented as an alternative to classic assembly methods and ultrasonic welding technology was applied to different fabric combinations simulating different layers in different joining sections of a surgical gown.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

To view the access options for this content please click here
Article
Publication date: 22 November 2017

Gerda Mikalauskaite and Virginija Daukantiene

The purpose of this paper is to determine the influence of the loading velocity on textile bonds and sewn seam strength.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to determine the influence of the loading velocity on textile bonds and sewn seam strength.

Design/methodology/approach

Commercially produced polyamide and polyester knitted fabric, and polyester woven fabrics as well as three commercially available monolayer urethane thermoplastic films were used in this research. Two layers of each fabric were laminated at 160°C temperature at 5.6 kPa for 20 seconds. Sewn specimens were joined applying (301) and (514) stiches for woven and knitted fabrics, respectively. The bond and sewn seam strength was investigated at different delamination loading velocities (50, 100, 150, 200, 300 mm/min). These values of velocities lies in the velocity interval which covers the different standard requirements for testing of the quality of textiles and their seams or were applied in the research works of previous scientists. As the influence of loading velocity was more significant for bond strength, the bond strength results were analyzed together with the analysis of bond rupture character.

Findings

The determined influence of the loading velocity on textile bonds strength has proved that the loading velocity in bond strength test is of high importance for the prediction of the behavior of clothing being in exploitation under different conditions. The opposite tendency was determined for the sewn seams, the strength of which was independent on loading velocity.

Originality/value

The influence of the loading velocity on textile bond and sewn seam strength was not analyzed in the previous research works published by other scientists. It was known that the standard velocity is 50 mm/min for seams and 100 mm/min for textiles strength testing. It was shown there that the real exploitation of a garment as a whole complicated heterogenic dynamic system could be simulated with changing loading velocities during their seam strength testing. It was also determined that the loading velocity makes different influence on bonded and sewn seams of textiles.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

To view the access options for this content please click here
Article
Publication date: 7 September 2015

Rafal Hrynyk and Iwona Frydrych

– The purpose of this paper is to check an applicability of aluminized basalt fabrics for production of gloves protecting simultaneously against thermal and mechanical factors.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to check an applicability of aluminized basalt fabrics for production of gloves protecting simultaneously against thermal and mechanical factors.

Design/methodology/approach

Six variants of protective gloves were manufactured using two different glove constructions: more simple and cheaper with the anatomical thumb arrangement (model A), and more ergonomic one with so called “distance gussets” (model B). Aluminized basalt fabrics were contained in the back side of all variants and in only one variant of palm side. Then the protective properties against thermal and mechanical factors were measured according to the up-to-date standards.

Findings

The fulfillment of contact heat requirement was achieved for all glove variants at 100°C. Application of aluminized basalt fabrics in the glove back side allowed obtaining the fourth performance level in the case of resistance to small metal splashes and assuring the highest protection against the radiant heat and small metal splashes. Fulfillment of standard requirements for all examined mechanical parameters was achieved and significantly higher values than reqired for the highest performance level were registered.

Research limitations/implications

The further research including upscalling strategy as well as industrial conditions requirements should be taking into account for basalt textiles development. Moreover functionalization of basalt yarns and fabrics seems to be promising feature.

Practical implications

The preliminary utility trials were done and registered results are very promising, shows that this kind of gloves will be cheaper than produced so far and could be used in the glass, welder companies.

Social implications

The basalt textiles applied for protective gloves or other personal protective equipment can ensure safety at work for end users operating in mechanical and thermal risk scenarios.

Originality/value

Up till now the basalt fabrics have not been recognized as a material for the personal protective equipment, they were used mostly for technical purposes.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

To view the access options for this content please click here
Book part
Publication date: 15 December 2016

Christi Lockwood and Mary Ann Glynn

The construct of “tradition” is commonly used in studies of society and culture and refers to historically patterned institutionalized practices that emphasize the…

Abstract

The construct of “tradition” is commonly used in studies of society and culture and refers to historically patterned institutionalized practices that emphasize the “presentness of the past” in their transmission. However, there is “very little analysis of the properties of tradition” (Shils, 1971, p. 124), especially in the management literature. We draw on illustrative examples from Martha Stewart Living magazine to reveal the use and meanings of traditions and their relevance to understanding institutional micro-foundations in contemporary living. We investigate how organizations bundle various aspects of institutions in their presentation, and seek to advance theory on how institutions matter in everyday life.

Details

How Institutions Matter!
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-78635-429-7

Keywords

To view the access options for this content please click here
Article
Publication date: 12 June 2009

Marie Schacher, Youssef Haïkel, Stéphane Berger, Laurence Schacher and Dominique C. Adolphe

For years, the main reason for using textiles in the health care sector was to protect the patient from the medical staff. Nowadays, the garment has to play another role…

Abstract

Purpose

For years, the main reason for using textiles in the health care sector was to protect the patient from the medical staff. Nowadays, the garment has to play another role and protect the wearer. For dentists, risks can come from saliva which is considered potentially infectious because it frequently contains blood. This paper aims to define dentist gown specifications according to the new situation, and to propose new garments providing safety protective function as well as comfort.

Design/methodology/approach

Enquiries, direct interviews as well as internet forums have been used to extract dentists' requirements taking into account their need of barrier and their comfort concerns. Studies of the spraying area on the gowns have been performed to define the location of the required protection. A study of the warmer zone of the garment via IR camera has been done. Two prototypes have then been constructed and tested.

Findings

Images of impacts of drops that could cause cross‐infection allow defining the zones which are to be specifically protected. Thermographic images provide maps of hot zones of the garment when worn in working conditions, and information is obtained of desired open space zones which have been designed to create preferential ventilation required for comfort improvement. A second prototype was designed to improve results of the first one.

Practical implications

Replacement of current dentists garment in routine situation.

Originality/value

Dentists' gowns used in dental care have not been studied and not been redesigned yet, whereas new dentists are facing new risks and eagerly looking for personal protective equipment providing safety protective function as well as comfort.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 21 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

To view the access options for this content please click here
Article
Publication date: 7 August 2017

Esmaeil Salahshoor and Saeed Ebrahimi

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of joint clearance on the behavior of a needle driver mechanism (a slider-crank linkage) of a typical sewing machine…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of joint clearance on the behavior of a needle driver mechanism (a slider-crank linkage) of a typical sewing machine with an imperfect joint between the coupler and the slider (including needle).

Design/methodology/approach

In order to model the clearance, the momentum exchange approach is used. The Lankarani and Nikravesh’s continuous contact force model is used to model the contact force, and the modified Coulomb’s friction law represents the friction between sliding members. The penetration force applied on the needle by fabric is chosen based on an experimental data in the literature. The dynamic response is validated for the existing properties in the literature without considering the penetration force.

Findings

It is shown that the clearance joint made considerable effect on the dynamic response of the system. The rough changes of the needle acceleration and jerk are obvious. The base reaction force changed roughly and did not vary as smooth as that of the mechanism with ideal joint. So, clearance joint in the mechanism could lead to an undesirable vibration in the system. Furthermore, the crank driver must provide a non-smooth moment on the crank to keep the crank rotational velocity constant. Moreover, reducing the clearance size sufficiently could make the dynamic response closer to that of the mechanism with ideal joint. In addition, smoother crank moment could be required if the clearance size is reduced sufficiently. Furthermore, the rough change of the base reaction force which can represent the vibration caused by the mechanism on the fixed frame could be reduced if the clearance size is small enough.

Originality/value

Lockstitch sewing machine is one of the most common apparel industrial machines. The needle driver mechanism of a sewing machine could have an important role for proper stitch forming. On the other hand, clearances are inevitable in assemblage of mechanisms to allow the relative motion between the members. This clearance is due to machining tolerances, wear, material deformations, and imperfections, and it can worsen mechanism performance such as precision, dynamic behavior and vibration. Unfortunately, despite the importance of the dynamic behavior of the needle driver mechanism from practical point of view, very little publications have focused especially on the investigation of the effect of clearance joint on the dynamic behavior of the sewing machine which could lead to undesired vibration of the system and shorter lifetime as a result. In this paper, the dynamic behavior of the system including, needle velocity and acceleration, crank moment and base reaction force was compared with that of the ideal mechanism. Finally, the effect of clearance size on the dynamic behavior of the system was investigated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

To view the access options for this content please click here
Article
Publication date: 4 December 2017

Mallika Datta, Devarun Nath, Asif Javed and Nabab Hossain

The focus of this research is to identify the optimum commercial grade sewing thread and stitch density to be used with woven linen shirting fabric used in making men’s…

Abstract

Purpose

The focus of this research is to identify the optimum commercial grade sewing thread and stitch density to be used with woven linen shirting fabric used in making men’s formal shirt. Maximum seam efficiency and interaction between the process parameters were assessed.

Design/methodology/approach

The classical method of optimisation involves varying one variable at a time and keeping the others constant. This is often useful, but it does not explain the effect of interaction between the variables under consideration. In this study, the response surface methodology was used for securing a more accurate optimisation of seam quality (seam efficiency) of woven linen shirting fabric. The response surface method is an empirical statistical technique used for multiple regression analysis of quantitative data obtained from statistically designed experiments by solving the multivariate equations simultaneously. Through this system, the input level of each process parameter, i.e. variable and the level of the selected response (seam efficiency), can be quantified. The central composite, Box–Behnken, is the common design used here.

Findings

The maximum seam efficiency is 79.62 per cent and 83.13 per cent in warp and weft direction, respectively, with optimum areal density (G) of 110 g/m2 of woven linen shirting fabric. The most suitable stitch density and ticket number of commercial grade sewing thread for woven linen shirting fabric are 13-13.5 and 40, respectively.

Practical implications

This study could help apparel manufacturers to evaluate seam quality, i.e. seam efficiency of woven linen fabric for men’s shirting, more effectively from the proposed regression model. The optimisation of the commercial grade sewing thread size and stitch density used in this study for woven linen shirting fabric within the range of 110-150 g/m2 will facilitate apparel engineers in production planning and quality control.

Originality/value

There is dearth of research on seam quality for woven linen shirting fabric using commercial grade sewing thread and engineering of prediction regression model for the estimation of seam efficiency by using process parameters, namely, fabric G, thread size and thread density and their interaction.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

To view the access options for this content please click here
Article
Publication date: 1 April 2001

Qinwen Li, Evangelos Liasi, Hui‐Jun Zou and R. Du

In heavy industrial sewing, needle heating has become a serious problem that limits the further increase of the sewing speed, and hence the productivity. The high…

Abstract

In heavy industrial sewing, needle heating has become a serious problem that limits the further increase of the sewing speed, and hence the productivity. The high temperature in the needle can degrade the strength of the thread. At the same, it may cause the wear of the needle eye, which would further damage the thread. It can also scorch the fabric, as well as temper and weaken the needle itself. Therefore, it is important to develop a model that can predict the needle heating and, hence, find remedies to minimize its effects. According to a literature survey, most research on needle heating focuses on experimental methods, such as infrared radiometry, infrared pyrometry, etc. This paper is the first part of our research on needle heating. In this paper, two analytical models are presented: the sliding contact model and the lumped variable model. These models are relatively simple and easy to use. Given needle geometry, sewing condition, and fabric characteristic, they can predict the needle temperature rise starting from initial heating to steady state. The simulation results are rather accurate. Hence, the models can be used to quickly identify the potential needle heating problems on the shop floor. In Part 2 of our study, a finite element analysis (FEA) model is presented together with the experiment results.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 13 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

To view the access options for this content please click here
Article
Publication date: 1 March 1999

Eric Mallet and Ruxu Du

Sewing is one of the most commonly used manufacturing processes in the world. Millions of parts are sewn every day ranging from cloths, shoes, furniture, to automobile…

Abstract

Sewing is one of the most commonly used manufacturing processes in the world. Millions of parts are sewn every day ranging from cloths, shoes, furniture, to automobile seat covers. However, it is also one of the least understood processes. In fact, according to literature survey, few know how to calculate the sewing force or the fabric deformation during the sewing. This paper presents our research on using finite element model (FEM) to study the sewing process. The model is developed using ANSYS software system. In the model, the fabric is approximated by a number of perpendicular beam elements with elastic and plastic capabilities. On the other hand, the needle is modeled by a simple elastic beam. The contact between the two parts is modeled by contact elements. The variations of the needle geometry and the fabric material properties as well as the sewing conditions are also included in the model. The model can simulate the needle piercing through a material, and calculates the sewing forces as well as the fabric deformation forming a hole. It has been verified experimentally and can be used to study the effects of the key sewing parameters such as the fabric material properties and the needle geometry.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 11 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

1 – 10 of 610