Search results

1 – 10 of over 1000
Article
Publication date: 4 October 2011

Hein A.M. Daanen and Michel B. Byvoet

The challenge for companies selling clothing over the internet is to combine a minimal requested effort of the visitor in entering (body) information with low‐percentage no‐fit…

Abstract

Purpose

The challenge for companies selling clothing over the internet is to combine a minimal requested effort of the visitor in entering (body) information with low‐percentage no‐fit returns. The purpose of this paper is to present a method that converts self‐reported information to individual adjustments of a female blouse.

Design/methodology/approach

In total, 48 Belgian females participated in the study. Age, height, weight and bra size were the inputs for blouse sizing as well as the subjective assessment of hip and waist size and arm length. All subjects were accurately measured and the relationship between eight essential body dimensions for blouse design (neck, bust, waist, hip and wrist circumference, arm and back length and shoulder length) and the simple inputs was determined. All subjects fitted a blouse, the size of which was determined by bust circumference, and the necessary alterations to optimize fit were recorded.

Findings

The subjective information provided for hip and waist shape was related to the measured hip and waist circumference (r=0.68 and r=0.79, respectively). The relationship for arm length measurements was less (r=0.38). The self‐reported values enabled a fairly good prediction of the essential body dimensions (r ranged from 0.65 to 0.97). The suggested alterations during the fit test were well related to the difference between the essential body dimensions and sizing chart data. The fit of the resized blouse was judged positively by all but one subject.

Originality/value

The authors are not aware of similar studies reporting a statistical method to establish a stepwise link between self‐reported data and blouse dimensions. The method may be helpful to improve fit of garments sold over the internet.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 23 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 February 2008

Elizabeth Bye, Karen LaBat, Ellen McKinney and Dong‐Eun Kim

To evaluate current apparel industry Misses grading practices in providing good fit and propose grading practices to improve fit.

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Abstract

Purpose

To evaluate current apparel industry Misses grading practices in providing good fit and propose grading practices to improve fit.

Design/methodology/approach

Participants representing Misses sizes 6‐20 based on ASTM D 5585 were selected. The fit of garments from traditionally graded patterns was assessed. Garments were fit‐to‐shape on participants. Traditionally graded patterns were compared to fit‐to‐shape patterns using quantitative and qualitative visual analysis.

Findings

Current apparel industry grading practices do not provide good fit for consumers. The greatest variation between the traditionally graded patterns and the fit‐to‐shape patterns occurred between sizes 14 and 16. For size 16 and up, neck and armscye circumferences were too large and bust dart intakes were too small.

Research limitations/implications

This study was limited to a sheath dress in Misses sizes 6‐20. Future research should assess the fit of garments from traditionally graded patterns for other size ranges.

Practical implications

Multiple fit modes are needed in a range of more than five sizes. The fit model should be at the middle of a sizing group that does not range more than two sizes up or down.

Originality/value

There are few studies on apparel grading that test fit of actual garments on the body. The analysis documents the real growth of the body across the size range and suggests that changes in body measurements and shape determine the fit of a garment. These findings impact future research in apparel and the practices of apparel manufacturers.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 March 2015

Xiaojiu Li and Xiaoning Jing

The purpose of this paper is to obtain circumference sizes from 2D feature sizes in the parts of three vital measurements of young female, the dimensions of chest width, chest…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to obtain circumference sizes from 2D feature sizes in the parts of three vital measurements of young female, the dimensions of chest width, chest depth, waist width, waist depth, hip width, hip depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth of 400 young female samples are collected.

Design/methodology/approach

Inside which, 300 samples are used as learning samples, and the remaining 100 samples are used as training samples, the sample data are entered to the network constructed by support vector machine regression (SVR) and the predictive value of circumference sizes are gained.

Findings

Finally, the regression model is established between 2D feature size and the corresponding circumference size. Through the trained prediction model based on SVR, the circumference sizes in three vital measurement parts of a new sample are predicted for convenient mass measurement.

Originality/value

The research of measurement regression relationship in parts of three vital measurements of young female is the basis for conveniently obtaining dimensions in garment mass measurement. It can provide the accurate data to feminine dress industry, and has high precision.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 September 2011

Diana Sindicich and Catherine Black

This paper seeks to investigate issues with the fit and sizing of commercially available men's business clothing in the USA.

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Abstract

Purpose

This paper seeks to investigate issues with the fit and sizing of commercially available men's business clothing in the USA.

Design/methodology/approach

The functional design process is a conceptual framework used to frame an investigation of fit and sizing of men's business clothing. Data were collected from 322 men aged 20‐55 at two different demographic levels. Sizing and fit of men's shirts, pants, suits and their garment features were reported to investigate fit issues with men's ready‐to‐wear business clothing and their relationships to sizing and overall body composition.

Findings

Results indicated that many men self‐report fit issues with their business clothing, including issues with the key sizing dimensions of their garments. Consumers frequenting specialty stores with high service levels reported fewer issues with key sizing dimensions, but more issues in other areas of the garments. Many respondents did not know their garment size. Some consumers appear to be choosing their garments based on non key measurements to best accommodate their individual shape, while those choosing by their sized measurements may not achieve satisfactory fit in all areas.

Research limitations/implications

The sample was generally located in the southeast United States. Sizing systems and clothing manufacturers vary globally.

Originality/value

Little research into the sizing and fit of men's clothing has been performed. This article investigates self‐reported fit issues to establish a baseline for further studies in the area.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 15 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 November 2015

Hyun-Sook Han, Sungmin Kim and Chang Kyu Park

– The purpose of this paper is to develop an automated custom-pattern-making system using the width-height independent grading method for semi-customized clothing.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to develop an automated custom-pattern-making system using the width-height independent grading method for semi-customized clothing.

Design/methodology/approach

The system reads basic patterns and graded large patterns and calculates the grading ratio of independent horizontal and vertical values on all points in a pattern. The custom pattern is automatically generated by calculating the horizontal and vertical grading amount according to individual body measurements. The system does not follow any complicated alteration rules.

Findings

The width-height independent grading method can provide custom-pattern fitted primary body circumference and length and helps to quickly produce semi-customized clothing.

Originality/value

There are few studies on automated custom-pattern-making systems without an alteration rule. This study developed an automatic custom-pattern-making system using the width-height independent grading method.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 September 2019

Heekyung Jang and Jianhui Chen

The purpose of this paper is to use body shape analysis and develop a 3D virtual body formation and deformation model that can accurately express size and shape.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to use body shape analysis and develop a 3D virtual body formation and deformation model that can accurately express size and shape.

Design/methodology/approach

In this paper, 1,882 sets of direct measurement data of Korean women in their 20s (19–29 years) were analyzed. These data sets were sourced from the sixth and seventh “Size Korea” anthropometric survey data. Through body shape analysis, the authors classified them into seven body types and selected their representative bodies. A 2D image based on the height, breadth, depth and length was first formed, and the representative virtual body was modeled using the polygon technique. The authors calculated the grading ratios for each body type according to the clothing sizing system, and modified the virtual body size type by morphing technique.

Findings

In order to accurately evaluate the fit in a virtual fitting system, it is necessary to study the body size and shape of the target age; this makes it possible to form virtual body reflecting the size and shape.

Originality/value

In this paper, the authors propose a new 3D virtual body formation method that is more accurate in shape and size compared to the present system. Through this, it will be possible to grasp the accurate simulation state in the virtual fitting system, and thereby evaluate the accurate fit.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 2006

Darko Ujević, Dubravko Rogale, Mirko Drenovac, Dinko Pezelj, Marijan Hrastinski, Nina Smolej Narančić, Željko Mimica and Renata Hrženjak

Anthropometry as one of anthropology methods is concerned with the measurement of the human body and determining the relationship of the size and proportions of the human body…

Abstract

Purpose

Anthropometry as one of anthropology methods is concerned with the measurement of the human body and determining the relationship of the size and proportions of the human body. Aims to outline the main features of the Croatian anthropometric system (HAS).

Design/methodology/approach

The paper provides a description of the major characteristics included in HAS, the STIRP project supported by the Ministry of Science, Education and Sports by means of the HITRA program.

Findings

In its TEST subprogram, HAS includes the first systematic anthropometric measurement in all Croatian counties and in the city of Zagreb. The objective of HAS is to determine a proposal of the new size system of clothing and footwear. The paper describes major characteristics included: anthropometric measurements and target points, part of practical measurements, survey of measurements based on age groups and instruments used for these purposes, notes about field measurements and HAS users.

Practical implications

The implementation of HAS has been harmonized with International Organization for Standardization and EN standards and represents a considerable contribution on the path to the EU.

Originality/value

Provides information of value to those concerned with developments in the clothing and garment industries.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 18 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 24 February 2012

Maryam Salehi Esfandarani and Jamal Shahrabi

The purpose of this paper is to develop a new suit sizing system based on up‐dated data, using data mining techniques, to improve the final quality and reduce the waste of fabric…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to develop a new suit sizing system based on up‐dated data, using data mining techniques, to improve the final quality and reduce the waste of fabric. This paper aims to investigate the effect of data reduction on the final fitness of the sizing chart.

Design/methodology/approach

Principal component analysis is applied to reduce the sizing variables, non‐hierarchical clustering approach is used to segment the heterogeneous population to more homogeneous one, and the aggregate loss of fitness is used to evaluate the resulted sizing chart.

Findings

The results show that, when principal component analysis reduces the ten sizing variables to two main components, the final fitness for the resulted sizing chart is the best. These two main components are height and circumference. The hierarchical clustering approach could effectively group all body type to seven clusters. The resulted sizing chart could be used as a reference for suit manufacturers.

Practical implications

Due to wide differences in race, nutrition and climate, people who live in different countries have their own body size; also, most of current sizing systems are out‐dated, so there is an urgent need to develop a new sizing system. Due to the growing rate of globalization, the final results will be useful for those companies wanting to connect to global business chains.

Originality/value

This work introduces the first suit sizing systems, based on data mining, for Iranian males, that has more fitness in comparison to the current sizing chart. The effect of the number of principal components on the final fitness of a sizing system is introduced as an innovative way, to avoid losing useful data during data reduction process with principal component analysis.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 24 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 June 2011

Yong‐Mei Deng, Kit‐lun Yick, Yi‐lin Kwok and Siu‐chun Wong

The purpose of this paper is to measure the craniofacial dimensions of 41 full‐term neonates nursed in the Special Care Baby Unit of Queen Mary Hospital in Hong Kong, so as to…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to measure the craniofacial dimensions of 41 full‐term neonates nursed in the Special Care Baby Unit of Queen Mary Hospital in Hong Kong, so as to develop a good‐fitting and secure eye‐patch protector for protecting neonatal eyes from the strong light in phototherapy.

Design/methodology/approach

In total, 14 craniofacial dimensions were measured using a new, safe and non‐intrusive method with a close‐range photogrammetric system and two dimensions of head circumference and facial arc were measured using manual method with a disposable paper tape in the hospital environment. Birth information of gestation, age, gender, present weight and present length has been recorded. A descriptive statistics was produced based on the measured data. Correlations between each pair of dimensions were investigated and factor analysis was conducted for application on an eye‐patch protector development.

Findings

Head circumference was identified as the most desirable key dimension of a sizing system for an eye‐patch protector. Two head circumferences with the sizes of 310‐349 mm and 350‐389 mm, respectively, could effectively cover all full‐term neonates. Design guidelines were generated according to the measurement of the craniofacial dimensions.

Originality/value

This paper presents the craniofacial dimensions of head, eye, nose and ear parts of full‐term neonates.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 23 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1993

Jongsuk Chun‐Yoon and Cynthia R. Jasper

Reviews the sizing systems developed in several countries — the USA, Austria, England, Germany, Hungary, Japan and South Korea. A comparison of these systems shows that: the way…

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Abstract

Reviews the sizing systems developed in several countries — the USA, Austria, England, Germany, Hungary, Japan and South Korea. A comparison of these systems shows that: the way of labelling garment sizes has varied from one sizing system to another; most of the sizing systems classified figure types by height and drop value (the difference between hip girth and bust girth measurements), and the way of classifying garments and the key dimensions of garment types in each system was slightly different. Recognizing the need for greater uniformity, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) developed an international size labelling system. Many countries, including England, Japan, South Korea and Hungary, revised their size labelling systems by adopting the ISO system.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 5 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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