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Article
Publication date: 1 November 2015

Sunita Dixit

Cellulases and swelling agents are known to be effective in improving the colour strength of cotton. Nowadays, handloom fabrics, such as khadi cotton, are much more preferred due…

Abstract

Cellulases and swelling agents are known to be effective in improving the colour strength of cotton. Nowadays, handloom fabrics, such as khadi cotton, are much more preferred due to the development of innovative designs with their use and their comfort in wearing. Also, due to increased environmental awareness, the use of natural dyes are much more preferred in the dyeing of handloom fabrics. However, khadi cotton has some major shortcomings, such as less dyeability. The present study is carried out by keeping in mind that the pretreatment of khadi cotton with cellulases, swelling agents and a combination of cellulases and swelling agents before dyeing improves the colour strength properties. Khadi cotton samples are treated with optimized conditions of the enzymes and swelling agents. The optimum pH, concentration, treatment time and temperature selected for treatment of the samples with acid cellulase enzymes are 5.5, 1.5% (owf), 45 minutes and 50°C, respectively, whereas in the case of neutral cellulase enzymes, 7.5, 2.0% (owf), 70 minutes and 70°C, respectively. The optimum concentration, treatment time and temperature selected for the treatment of the samples with sodium hydroxide, ethylenediamine and zinc chloride are 20% w/v, 60 minutes and 60°C; 80% w/v, 60 minutes and 70°C, and 80% w/v, 60 minutes and 70°C respectively. Butea frondosa dye (5 g) extracted for 75 minutes provides the best results on khadi cotton when dyeing is carried out for 90 minutes. It is observed that out of the various concentrations of mordants used with the Butea frondosa dye, the best shades of colour are obtained by using 0.04 g of alum, 0.01 g of copper sulphate, and 5 g of Babool bark. In terms of optimizing the mordanting, the best results are obtained with Butea frondosa dye when the samples are simultaneously mordanted and dyed with alum, Babool bark and alum. Pre-mordanting is selected for the copper sulphate. It is found that for all the enzyme treated (acid and neutral cellulase) as well as swelling agent treated (sodium hydroxide, ethylenediamine and zinc chloride) samples, the colour strength and colourfastness increase in comparison to the untreated samples.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 19 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 February 2023

Chaitali Brahma, Bhaskar Saha and Anirban Chowdhury

The purpose of this study is to understand the perception of the local weavers amongst the Bodos, a tribe of the North-east (NE) India. Towards this a concept of a service…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to understand the perception of the local weavers amongst the Bodos, a tribe of the North-east (NE) India. Towards this a concept of a service pipeline process in the field of heritage attire preservation of Bodo Dokhona was focused that would endorse the local weavers' community for its wellbeing and sustainability.

Design/methodology/approach

The design approaches have been framed after interactions with the local weavers through a survey conducted for understanding the issues pertaining to weavers. Towards sustaining the Bodo heritage attire Dokhona, a service design pipeline for better management system was developed in three phases. Interactions with the local weavers through survey and validation for its feasibility were undertaken.

Findings

This research paper focuses on publishing innovative survey research and practice related to cultural heritage management of the Bodo traditional wear Dokhona and sustainability conservation of the pipeline process. Therefore, developing both skill and knowledge for the weavers' community of the region.

Social implications

The design pipeline approach in this paper has been shared with the local weavers' for easy understanding of the step-by-step process of weaving a Dokhona made of eri silk. A progressive Bodo weaver will gain skill training which would lead to weavers' empowerment.

Originality/value

Developing and documenting an innovative service design approach. In this context, an insight for women empowerment leading to preservation of Bodo heritage is valued.

Details

Journal of Cultural Heritage Management and Sustainable Development, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2044-1266

Keywords

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