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Article
Publication date: 4 December 2017

Mallika Datta, Devarun Nath, Asif Javed and Nabab Hossain

The focus of this research is to identify the optimum commercial grade sewing thread and stitch density to be used with woven linen shirting fabric used in making men’s formal…

Abstract

Purpose

The focus of this research is to identify the optimum commercial grade sewing thread and stitch density to be used with woven linen shirting fabric used in making men’s formal shirt. Maximum seam efficiency and interaction between the process parameters were assessed.

Design/methodology/approach

The classical method of optimisation involves varying one variable at a time and keeping the others constant. This is often useful, but it does not explain the effect of interaction between the variables under consideration. In this study, the response surface methodology was used for securing a more accurate optimisation of seam quality (seam efficiency) of woven linen shirting fabric. The response surface method is an empirical statistical technique used for multiple regression analysis of quantitative data obtained from statistically designed experiments by solving the multivariate equations simultaneously. Through this system, the input level of each process parameter, i.e. variable and the level of the selected response (seam efficiency), can be quantified. The central composite, Box–Behnken, is the common design used here.

Findings

The maximum seam efficiency is 79.62 per cent and 83.13 per cent in warp and weft direction, respectively, with optimum areal density (G) of 110 g/m2 of woven linen shirting fabric. The most suitable stitch density and ticket number of commercial grade sewing thread for woven linen shirting fabric are 13-13.5 and 40, respectively.

Practical implications

This study could help apparel manufacturers to evaluate seam quality, i.e. seam efficiency of woven linen fabric for men’s shirting, more effectively from the proposed regression model. The optimisation of the commercial grade sewing thread size and stitch density used in this study for woven linen shirting fabric within the range of 110-150 g/m2 will facilitate apparel engineers in production planning and quality control.

Originality/value

There is dearth of research on seam quality for woven linen shirting fabric using commercial grade sewing thread and engineering of prediction regression model for the estimation of seam efficiency by using process parameters, namely, fabric G, thread size and thread density and their interaction.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 May 2021

Jemal Endris and Nalankilli Govindan

The purpose of this study is to establish a suitable procedure for dyeing and multifunctional finishing on 100% cotton using extracts of eucalyptus leaves in an eco-friendly…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to establish a suitable procedure for dyeing and multifunctional finishing on 100% cotton using extracts of eucalyptus leaves in an eco-friendly manner.

Design/methodology/approach

Box–Behnken design of experiments and analysis of variance (ANOVA) were used to optimise the conditions of extraction, dyeing and finishing. Phytochemical analysis was performed to determine the chemical constituents of the extracts. Colour strength, fastness properties were evaluated for dyed fabric samples. The effectiveness of eucalyptus leaves extract as an insect repellent, aroma, antibacterial finishing agent, was assessed. Pre-soaking and padding method was used for the application of active essential oil on the fabric.

Findings

Essential oil extracted from Eucalyptus globulus leaves have great repellent rate for insects to the extent of 90% and aroma intensity of 72% and antibacterial effect of 100% bacterial reduction up to five washings. The use of citric acid as cross-linking agent helps increase the durability of the finish. Natural dyeing to get light yellow shade is possible with extracts made with water, possessing good fastness properties.

Research limitations/implications

Scaling up the extraction process and soaking larger quantities of fabrics in extracted essential oil solution before the pad applications are considered limitations of this study. However, smaller pieces of fabrics can conveniently be handled in this process. It has tremendous potential for practising industrially, to get yellow-shaded multifunctional finished cotton textiles.

Practical implications

Protection against insects, including mosquitoes, bacteria with additional aroma on cotton will be of great use in day-to-day life for the wearer.

Social implications

Eco-friendly, renewable sources of ingredients from the plant were used to obtain protection against pathogenic or odour-causing microorganisms using this hygiene finish with multiple end uses.

Originality/value

This original work enables conducting dyeing and multifunctional finishing together in a single stage, which otherwise takes a number of steps, consuming large quantities of water, chemicals and energy to impart similar effects on cotton.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 25 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 August 2014

K. Somasundara Vinoth, R. Subramanian, S. Dharmalingam and B. Anandavel

The purpose of this research paper is to find the optimum parameters, namely, the sliding speed, applied load and percentage of silicon carbide particles (SiCp), under which…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this research paper is to find the optimum parameters, namely, the sliding speed, applied load and percentage of silicon carbide particles (SiCp), under which AlSi10Mg/SiCp composites experience minimum wear.

Design/methodology/approach

Wear rate (WR) of AlSi10Mg, AlSi10Mg/10SiC and AlSi10Mg/20SiC was measured using pin-on-disk equipment according to ASTM G99 standards. Response surface method was used to design the experiments, model and analyze the tribological behaviour. Tests were conducted as per Box–Beheken design of experiments. The wear mechanisms were observed using scanning electron microscope. Genetic algorithm was used to find the optimum parameters for minimum WR.

Findings

Wear mechanisms underwent changes with variation in applied load, sliding speed and per cent SiCp. An optimum wear condition was obtained when the process parameters, namely, the sliding speed, applied load and percentage of SiCp, were at 4 m/s, 10 N and 20 per cent, respectively. Combined GA-RSM approach was successfully used to predict the minimum WR condition of AlSi10Mg/SiCp composites with an accuracy of 94 per cent.

Originality/value

The tribological behaviour of AlSi10Mg/SiCp composites has been investigated in detail. A statistical WR model is proposed. This paper provides an optimum condition to design the tribo contact between steel and AlSi10Mg/SiCp composites.

Details

Industrial Lubrication and Tribology, vol. 66 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0036-8792

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 March 2020

Jitendra Pratap Singh and Sanjeev Kumar Ram

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of pick density, pile height and pile yarn count (both single- and double-ply yarn) on the colour fastness to crocking…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of pick density, pile height and pile yarn count (both single- and double-ply yarn) on the colour fastness to crocking, colour fastness to washing, colour fastness to water of woven velour printed terry fabrics. These variables have also been optimized for developing high-quality fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

Variables were selected on the basis of past research experience and samples were prepared according to the Box–Behnken design of experiments. The samples were tested for colour fastness to crocking, colour fastness to washing and colour fastness to water by following AATCC 8, AATCC 61, 2A and AATCC 107, respectively.

Findings

The colour fastness to crocking, washing and water of woven velour printed terry fabrics increases with the decrease in pile height and pick density. The colour fastness properties of the fabric increase with increase in fineness of the pile yarn count. Woven velour printed terry fabric with 16.25 picks per cm, 3.5 mm pile height and 16 Ne pile yarn will show best colour fastness. Woven velour printed terry fabric (plied pile yarn) with 16.25 picks per cm, 3.5 mm pile height and 2/24 Ne pile yarn will show best colour fastness

Practical implications

Proved a practical approach to control fastness properties of the fabric by changing fabric variables.

Originality/value

Colour fastness properties of woven velour printed terry fabrics have never been reported. The research work gives the better understanding to develop high quality of fabrics by reducing pile height and pick density. This will also reduce the cost of the fabric.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 May 2019

Sukhvir Singh, Niranjan Bhowmick and Anand Vaz

The present work is a systematic study to understand the cause of poor quality of sliver, roving and yarn due to defective sliver storage can-spring at finisher drawframe machine…

Abstract

Purpose

The present work is a systematic study to understand the cause of poor quality of sliver, roving and yarn due to defective sliver storage can-spring at finisher drawframe machine in spinning preparatory. This study aims to investigate the influence of can-spring stiffness factor, sliver deposition rate and sliver coils position on yarn unevenness and thin places considering two cases of sliver storage time.

Design/methodology/approach

Combed ring spun yarn samples were produced by varying finisher drawframe variables, which were can-spring stiffness, delivery speed and sliver coils position in storage can. For research design, three-factor three levels of Box-Behnken experimental design was adopted. To investigate the effect of sliver storage time on combed yarn unevenness and thin places, yarn samples were produced at 8 h sliver storage time and without allowing any storage time. Sliver storage time is the time for which combed drawn sliver kept idle in storage cans before feeding to speedframe machine. The 8 h sliver storage time was considered for present study after consulting industrial experts. Adequate numbers of the samples were tested for yarn quality parameters such as yarn unevenness and thin places 50 per cent/km on standard instruments. Finally, the test results were analyzed using statistical software to check the statistical significance of all the independent variables on observed response through analysis of variance.

Findings

The experimental results showed that the yarn samples produced from older can-springs and bottom position sliver coils stored at 8 h storage time were showing higher yarn unevenness and thin places compared to other yarn samples. The results also showed that the effect of delivery speed is not significant on yarn unevenness for samples produced without allowing any sliver storage time.

Research limitations/implications

The present study is an outcome of a practical problem experienced at the finisher drawframe machine in a spinning industry. For this purpose, only scrutinized finisher drawframe variables were considered for the evaluation. There are many equally important other factors, which were not considered due to research work feasibility.

Social implications

This paper investigates the effect of some imperative factors at the finisher drawframe stage on combed yarn quality. The present study will boost existing knowledge of the spinner’s community regarding the effect of can-spring stiffness, sliver coils position and storage time on resultant combed yarn quality parameters.

Originality/value

The work is original and only a few references are available. The study reveals that storage can-spring stiffness should be chosen carefully for better sliver handling. It is observed that finisher drawframe can-spring stiffness, sliver storage time and sliver coils position play a vital role in deciding quality characteristics of stored sliver and ultimately affect yarn quality.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 23 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 14 December 2023

Nausheen Bibi Jaffur, Pratima Jeetah and Gopalakrishnan Kumar

The increasing accumulation of synthetic plastic waste in oceans and landfills, along with the depletion of non-renewable fossil-based resources, has sparked environmental…

Abstract

The increasing accumulation of synthetic plastic waste in oceans and landfills, along with the depletion of non-renewable fossil-based resources, has sparked environmental concerns and prompted the search for environmentally friendly alternatives. Biodegradable plastics derived from lignocellulosic materials are emerging as substitutes for synthetic plastics, offering significant potential to reduce landfill stress and minimise environmental impacts. This study highlights a sustainable and cost-effective solution by utilising agricultural residues and invasive plant materials as carbon substrates for the production of biopolymers, particularly polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB), through microbiological processes. Locally sourced residual materials were preferred to reduce transportation costs and ensure accessibility. The selection of suitable residue streams was based on various criteria, including strength properties, cellulose content, low ash and lignin content, affordability, non-toxicity, biocompatibility, shelf-life, mechanical and physical properties, short maturation period, antibacterial properties and compatibility with global food security. Life cycle assessments confirm that PHB dramatically lowers CO2 emissions compared to traditional plastics, while the growing use of lignocellulosic biomass in biopolymeric applications offers renewable and readily available resources. Governments worldwide are increasingly inclined to develop comprehensive bioeconomy policies and specialised bioplastics initiatives, driven by customer acceptability and the rising demand for environmentally friendly solutions. The implications of climate change, price volatility in fossil materials, and the imperative to reduce dependence on fossil resources further contribute to the desirability of biopolymers. The study involves fermentation, turbidity measurements, extraction and purification of PHB, and the manufacturing and testing of composite biopolymers using various physical, mechanical and chemical tests.

Details

Innovation, Social Responsibility and Sustainability
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-83797-462-7

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 16 September 2022

R. Rathinamoorthy and S. Raja Balasaraswathi

Synthetic textile materials are noted as one of the major contributors to microfiber pollution through laundry. Though many research works evaluated microfiber pollution, the…

Abstract

Purpose

Synthetic textile materials are noted as one of the major contributors to microfiber pollution through laundry. Though many research works evaluated microfiber pollution, the solutions provided to control microfiber shedding are meager. The existing products collect or filter the microfiber from laundry effluent and restrict the direct leaching. However, no methods were proposed to effectively reduce the shedding from the textile itself.

Design/methodology/approach

This research is aimed to analyze the influence of surface modification of polyester knitted textiles by sodium hydroxide, on microfiber shedding. Response surface methodology was adapted to optimize different treatment parameters (alkali concentration, treatment time and temperature).

Findings

The results show that the sodium hydroxide concentration and treatment time had a negative correlation with microfiber shedding reduction. Whereas, treatment temperature had a positive correlation with microfiber shedding reduction. The statistical analysis revealed that 0.4 M concentration, 90°C temperature and 24 min of treatment time was the best process condition for minimum microfiber release. The same was confirmed with a practical experiment and a significant reduction of 80.63% in microfiber shedding after alkali treatment was found.

Originality/value

Alkali treatment of different knitted polyester fabrics with various knit structures and mass per square meter showed a significant reduction in microfiber shedding. The repeated laundry performed for 20 washes with surface-modified samples showed a significant reduction in microfiber release at every wash cycle and ensured the longevity of the effect.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 May 2021

Scolastica Manyim, Ambrose Kipchumba Kiprop, Josphat Igadwa Mwasiagi, Cleophas Mecha Achisa and Mark Peter Odero

The majority of the synthetic dyes have been found to be non-biodegradable, toxic and carcinogenic. As a result, there has been a growing trend toward the use of natural dyes as…

Abstract

Purpose

The majority of the synthetic dyes have been found to be non-biodegradable, toxic and carcinogenic. As a result, there has been a growing trend toward the use of natural dyes as alternates to synthetic dyes. This shift calls for more research to come up with more sources of natural dyes to satisfy their increasing demand. Euclea divinorum plant has been used traditionally as a source of dye, however, its textile dyeing properties have not been studied. This study aims to determine the textile dyeing properties of E. divinorum extract.

Design/methodology/approach

Optimization of dyeing conditions of Euclea divinorum natural dye extract on the cotton fabric was done using response surface methodology (RSM). The combined effects of examined dyeing conditions on the relative color strength (K/S) were studied using a central composite experimental design. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was used to determine the significance of the statistical model generated for the study. Mordanting effects were measured using standard ISO wash, rub and lightfastness tests.

Findings

The optimum dyeing conditions were found to be 68 min, pH 3.3 and 82°C with color strength 0.609. Temperature and pH showed some interaction effects during the dyeing experiments. The predicted optimum K/S value was validated experimentally using the optimum conditions and was found to be in agreement with the experimental values. All the metallic mordants used enhanced the color strength and provided a variety of brown shades, therefore, a suitable alternative for the toxic synthetic dyes.

Originality/value

Optimization of dyeing conditions of Euclea divinorum dye on cotton using RSM and mordanting at optimal conditions has not been done elsewhere.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 26 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 October 2023

Pawan Bishnoi and Pankaj Chandna

This paper aims to optimize the single-point incremental forming process variables for realizing higher formability in Inconel 625 components and to plot the forming limit diagram…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to optimize the single-point incremental forming process variables for realizing higher formability in Inconel 625 components and to plot the forming limit diagram for Inconel 625 aviation-grade superalloy.

Design/methodology/approach

The formability of Inconel 625 components has been measured in terms of major strain, minor strain and minimum sheet thickness. Response surface methodology with desirability function analysis has been used to achieve maximum formability. The finite element analysis has been conducted at optimal parametric setting.

Findings

The derived forming limit diagram proves that the maximum forming limit for Inconel 625 is 57.5° at the optimal parametric setting, achieved with desirability of 0.995. The outcomes of finite element analysis conducted at optimal parametric setting show excellent agreement with confirmation experiment results.

Practical implications

Inconel 625 superalloy is frequently used in aircraft and other high-performance applications for its superior strength.

Originality/value

It has been suggested that to enhance formability, higher tool rotation speed, minimum step-size, larger tooltip diameter and higher wall angle must be used. Wall angle is the governing parameter among all the parameters.

Details

Aircraft Engineering and Aerospace Technology, vol. 96 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1748-8842

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 January 2020

Anirban Dutta and Biswapati Chatterjee

The purpose of this paper is to establish the regression equation based upon a set of samples prepared through structured design of experiment and form a prediction model for…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to establish the regression equation based upon a set of samples prepared through structured design of experiment and form a prediction model for prediction of the areal density gram per square meter (GSM) of the embroidered fabrics and study the influence of basic input parameters.

Design/methodology/approach

Embroidery samples are prepared taking input parameters as GSM of the base fabric, linear density of the embroidery thread and stitch density of the embroidery design. Three levels of values are identified for each of the input parameters. Taguchi and Box-Behnken experiment design principles are used to prepare two sets of samples. Linear multiple regression is used to determine the prediction equations based upon each of the two sets and the combined set as well. Prediction equations are statistically verified for the prediction accuracy. Also, surface curves are prepared to study the influence of embroidery parameters on the GSM.

Findings

It is found that all the three prediction models developed in this study can predict with a very satisfactory level of accuracy. However, the regression equation based upon the data set prepared according to Taguchi experiment design is emerged as the prediction model with highest level of prediction accuracy. Corresponding equation coefficients and several three-dimensional surface curves are used to study the influence of embroidery parameters and it is found that the stitch density is the most influential input parameter followed by stitch length and the GSM of base fabric.

Research limitations/implications

This can be used to assess the GSM of embroidered fabrics before starting the actual embroidery process. So, this model can help the embroidery designers significantly to pre-estimate the GSM of the embroidered fabrics and select the design parameters accordingly. Also, this model can be a useful tool for estimation of thread consumption and thread cost in embroidery.

Practical implications

The input parameters used here are very basic parameters related to design and materials, which can be easily available. And also, a simple linear multiple regression is used to make the prediction equation simple and easy to use. So, this model can help the embroidery designers or garment designers to select/adjust the embroidery parameters and thread parameters accordingly in the planning and designing stage itself to ensure that the GSM of embroidered fabrics remains within desirable range. Also, this prediction model developed hereby may be a very useful tool for estimation of the consumption and cost of embroidery threads.

Originality/value

This paper presents a very fundamental study to reveal the effect of embroidery parameters on the GSM, through development of regression equations. It can help future researchers in optimizations of input parameters and forming a technical guideline for the embroidery designers for selection of the design parameters for a desired GSM of embroidered fabric.

1 – 10 of 144