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This paper aims to investigate the dyeability of tussah silk fabric with lotus seedpod extract as the source of nontoxic and eco-friendly dyestuffs and functional agent.

Mordant free dyeing method was carried out using citric acid (CA) as the cross-linking agent to link the fibre and dye molecules. First, the natural pigment of oligomeric procyanidins was extracted from the lotus seedpod and then used to dye the tussah silk fabric. After the dyeing process, the dyed samples were treated with CA solution under different concentrations to improve the colour fastness.

The tussah silk fabric was successfully coloured in reddish brown through the dyeing process and charactered by using Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy spectrometer. Moreover, lotus seedpod extract could impart excellent UV protection ability to the dyed samples, and UPF values reached up to 2000. CA dosage influenced the colour characteristics, UV protection and anti-wrinkling performance. The optimum dosage of CA was 7% (Wt.%). In addition, dyed silk fabric showed good antibacterial activity and the calculated bacteriostatic rate against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus were 83.27 and 60.2%, respectively.

This bio-dyeing strategy provided a simple and effective method for sustainable tussah silk fabric dyeing process.

This paper provides a novel dyeing strategy for mordant free dyeing and functionalization of tussah silk fabric, with lotus seedpod extract as natural pigment and CA as cross-linking agent to link the fibre and dye molecules.

This study aims to observe the coloring efficacy of coffee-based natural brown colorant for cotton dyeing under microwave (MW) treatment.

The colorant extracted in particular (neutral and acidic) media was stimulated by MW treatment up to 6 min. Dyeing variables were optimized and 2–10 g/100 mL of sustainable anchors (mordants) have been used to get colorfast shades.

It has been found that un-irradiated acidic extract (RE) containing 5% of table salt at 80 °C for 50 min has given high color yield onto MW-irradiated cotton fabric (RC = 2 min). The utilization of 2% of Fe, 10% of tannic acid and 10% of sodium potassium tartrate before bio-coloration, whereas 4% of Fe, 10% of tannic acid and 6% of sodium potassium tartrate after bio-coloration has given good color characteristics. In comparison the application of 6% of pomegranate and turmeric extracts before bio-coloration and 6% of pomegranate and 10% of turmeric extracts after bio-coloration have given good color characteristics. New bio-mordants can be added to get more new colorfast shades.

There is no research limitation for this work. New bio-mordants can be added to get more new colorfast shades.

This work has practical application for artisans, textile industry and handicrafts. It is concluded that colorant from coffee beans can be possible alternative of synthetic brown dyes and inclusion of MW rays for extraction and plant molecules as shade developers can make process more green.

Socially, it has good impact on eco-system and global community because the effluent load is not carcinogenic in nature.

The work is original and contains value-added product for textiles and other allied fields.