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The purpose of this paper is to investigate basic block pattern modification according to fabric used and the mismatch between 2D and 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths when ease allowance is changed uniformly.

For the investigation, virtual try-on software Modaris 3D Fit (CAD Lectra) was used. The straight shape dress fitting was done using seven cotton and cotton blended plain weave fabrics. After virtual try-on, the mismatch d (d_bust, d_waist, d_hip) between 2D and 3D measure lines was measured in order to determine base pattern adjustments using different fabrics.

It was found that the position and length of 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths does not match the position and length of corresponding lines in 2D base patterns after virtual try-on due to fabrics deformation, which is related to mechanical properties. It was proved that derived linear equations presenting a relation between mismatch and ease allowance values could be used for basic block pattern modification that 3D and 2D measure lines would coincide during clothing try-on.

This research is limited to cotton/cotton blended woven fabrics and straight dress; therefore, other fabric types and other clothing could be investigated in the future to expand data basis.

The main practical point of the proposed method is that in order to obtain particular 3D ease value in a garment, it can be calculated from 2D ease allowance value and the fabric’s tensile properties using linear equations. The basic block patterns could be modified using this method not only for tested fabrics but also for other fabrics with similar composition, structural and mechanical properties. 3D ease values in garment can be easily checked by using virtual try-on technology without production of real prototypes. The method is applicable for making ready-to-wear or individually tailored clothing.

The proposed method in this paper presented opportunity to modify the basic block patterns of the dress according to the fabric’s tensile properties and 2D ease allowance. The basic block patterns could be modified according to presented linear functions for each tested fabric. The application of this method can fully ensure the interaction between the garment 2D patterns to 3D garment so that a desired 3D garment fitting effect to the body can easily be satisfied by the adjustment of particular fabric characteristics. It offers further possibilities, especially with developing virtual try-on technologies.

To make individualized men's basic upper garment patterns without sleeves, the authors developed a measuring garment that measures necessary body dimensions and angles all together. Additionally, the authors proposed a method for making individualized basic body block patterns using the obtained dimensions and angles.

The authors decided on the locations of the dimensions of the body required for making the individualized garments. The authors then sewed multiple stretchable capacitance sensors to corresponding locations on a stretchable T-shirt. To obtain the dimensions with sensors of short length, the authors indirectly obtained each length from the relationship between the actual body length and the capacitance of the sensor. Beforehand, the authors obtained linear-approximation equations for the relationship between actual body dimensions and the capacitance of sensors for five participants and a dummy. The authors then used the measuring garment and the equations to obtain the body dimensions of another six participants. The authors compared the obtained and actual body dimensions to verify the equations. The authors made individualized upper-garment patterns without sleeves and garments for the 11 participants with the obtained dimensions and angles. The authors verified the proposed method in wearing tests comparing garments designed using the proposed method with conventionally designed garments.

Using the measuring garment, the authors obtained body dimensions close to actual body dimensions. A pattern of the individualized basic upper garment using the obtained dimensions and angles could be drawn. Compared with the conventional patterns, the individualized patterns had notable differences in the locations of the shoulder point and side neck point and directions of the shoulder line, which relate to the shoulder shape (i.e. square, sloping, forward, or backward). In wearing tests, all participants declared that the individualized garment better fitted their shoulders than the conventional garment without tightness around the shoulders, neck, and armpits. The proposed method with the developed measuring garment was thus found to be effective in designing individualized garments.

This paper presents the possibility of not only measuring body dimensions but also designing individualized basic upper garments using the proposed measuring garment. The proposed measuring garment will assist the efficient manufacture of individualized upper garments without a three-dimensional scanner or special skills.

Designing of clothes using the historical prototypes is very popular in contemporary practice. The purpose of this paper is to apply 2D and 3D computer-aided design (CAD) systems to reconstruct the historical pattern block and get the virtual image in accordance with the prototypes. New algorithm has been proved for men trousers taken from the nineteenth century.

Our approach is to develop a method of CAD to reconstruct historical trousers through analyzing and rebuilding of historical algorithms used to pattern blocks making, old anthropometrical database, and the pattern blocks shaping. Trousers construction, methods of trousers shaping by hands, body sizes schedule, manuals of 36 pattern cutting systems, and its sketches from nineteenth century have been analyzed. Then, by means of parameterization of historical pattern blocks, we have developed the universal trousers pattern cutting algorithm. The final step of the research has been devoted to virtual fitting technology that helps to determine the differences between historical trousers chosen as prototype and virtual image reconstructed by 3D CAD.

The authors have developed the parametrical module of 2D CAD and expanded the application of 3D CAD to re-designing of completely new object such as nineteenth century trousers pattern blocks in accordance with the historical method of shaping by hands. The conformity between the style of historical trousers and the virtual images reconstructed from two resources – pattern block and sketch silhouette – has been achieved.

This study demonstrated the contemporary approach to historical garments reconstruction by means of CAD. This study should help researchers of historical costume and practical specialists in apparel industry to apply historical heritage in a contemporary way.

Part 1 of this article gave an overview of the computer‐aided design system. This part describes the software program developed as part of the system. Examples are given to illustrate application of the software in the design and grading of flat patterns.

The development of an educational CAD system for the design of flat patterns for female apparel is described. The philosophy used in the development of the system is explained, together with the structure of the system which includes on‐line help files, demonstration programs and tutorials with assignments to assist the novice user.

The aim of the research is the development of 3D virtual models of lower female bodies from scanned data of different body types for computer‐aided 3D product development of loose‐fitting garments.

In order to develop reproducible construction of fashionable/functional outerwear (e.g. ladies’ trousers) on the basis of generated scalable 3D virtual female models, 3D‐CAD methods have to be developed. In doing so, the variable parameters are predefined and the block pattern of a trouser design can be modified by changing the parameters for the variety of trouser models. Two‐dimensional (2D) pattern pieces are then automatically generated and modified if necessary. According to morphological changes, the whole process proceeds automatically up to 2D patterns and thus corresponds to a grading in 3D.

The generated 3D virtual model and trouser design corresponding to a basic design or block pattern can be offered to the garment industry. The task of the designer or stylist is only to define the intended pattern design on the created trouser shell. Therefore, the approach is also very feasible for pattern makers who are not skilled in computer technology. The goal of this research is to provide an indispensable basis for an effective new technology for the construction of fit‐relevant, loose‐fitting garments, and in doing so, further accelerate the textile chain.

This paper provides methods of creating 3D garment design as well as grading in 3D, based on scalable virtual models of female lower bodies, which are worked out using a new German size designation system. Since the data processed for the generation of virtual models derives from direct scan data from women (taking into account different body types), the targeted German population is reflected.

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.

In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.

According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.

In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.

The purpose of this paper is to develop an automated custom-pattern-making system using the width-height independent grading method for semi-customized clothing.

The system reads basic patterns and graded large patterns and calculates the grading ratio of independent horizontal and vertical values on all points in a pattern. The custom pattern is automatically generated by calculating the horizontal and vertical grading amount according to individual body measurements. The system does not follow any complicated alteration rules.

The width-height independent grading method can provide custom-pattern fitted primary body circumference and length and helps to quickly produce semi-customized clothing.

There are few studies on automated custom-pattern-making systems without an alteration rule. This study developed an automatic custom-pattern-making system using the width-height independent grading method.

Considering only two-dimensional (2D) ease allowance cannot fully reflect the three-dimensional (3D) relationship between the position of clothing and the human body. The purpose of this paper is to propose a method with a 3D space vector and corresponding distance ease to characterize fitting garments and then used to construct personalized clothing for similar shape body.

Firstly, a 3D scanner was used to obtain mannequin and fitted garment data, and 17 layers of cross-sections of the upper body were extracted. Then, 37 space vectors and corresponding space angles on each cross-section were obtained with the original point. Secondly, the detailed distance ease between the mannequin and garment was constructed due to the difference between garment vectors and body vectors. Thirdly, the distance ease mathematical models were achieved and used to calculate distance ease on a similar shape body. Additionally, the fit garment is constructed, and the garment pattern is altered by the geometric pattern alteration method.

The results show that 3D space vectors can explain the relationship between body skin and garment surface of the upper body properly. The distance ease is modeled by mathematic expressions and successfully used to make a new garment to fit a similar shape body.

The proposed method of constructing garments based on distance ease and 3D space vectors can create a fitted garment for a similar shape body effectively and accurately. It is useful for the personalized garment design and suitable for the manufacturing process.

The paper seeks to evaluate and present the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of garment fit.

This study focuses on the use of 3D technology in the testing of garment fit. It examines the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of fit and presents primary data from experiments on the provision and testing of garment fit of specified size patterns for a jacket and skirt. Findings on virtual and human fit trials and an evaluation of the 3D technology are presented.

The study found that 3D software for fit provision and testing is still in its infancy, although advancements are currently being made in this area. It establishes that while fit can be virtually tested with 3D technology, its usability is not yet fine‐tuned. It evaluates procedures and presents problematic features of the 3D software. It underscores that although some issues concerning efficient provision and testing of fit still exist, 3D technology overall provides adequate evaluation of fit.

This study highlights areas for fine tuning and provides a basis for further research. While discussing usability of one pattern technology, this paper presents a platform for comparative evaluation of other technology.