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Article
Publication date: 1 February 2002

Cynthia L. Istook

Manufacturers have been struggling to meet the wants and needs of their customers without sacrificing the efficiencies and profits gained through mass production. Fortunately…

1706

Abstract

Manufacturers have been struggling to meet the wants and needs of their customers without sacrificing the efficiencies and profits gained through mass production. Fortunately, developments in information technology have increased the probability of mass customization being adopted as an acceptable business paradigm. Almost every CAD system used in apparel patternmaking has some method that would enable mass customization through automatic alteration of patterns based on individual measurements. Although each has created an interface somewhat differently from all of the others, most have a number of preparatory activities in common that will allow “automatic” alterations to occur. This article outlines the activities involved in setting up CAD systems to automatically customize garments for fit.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 14 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 May 2016

Melanie Sauerland, Svenja Mehlkopf, Alana C Krix and Anna Sagana

– The purpose of this paper is to test how modifying one’s alibi statement interacts with exposure to deceptive interrogation techniques.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to test how modifying one’s alibi statement interacts with exposure to deceptive interrogation techniques.

Design/methodology/approach

In all, 90 participants walked about a university building for 15 minutes and either stole an envelope from a staff pigeonhole (guilty condition) or put the envelope there along the way (innocent condition). Subsequently, participants were asked to provide an alibi for the past 15 minutes. Guilty and half of the innocent participants were instructed to omit that they had been in the vicinity of the pigeonholes. The rest of the innocent participants were asked to tell the truth. Several days later, participants were questioned about six statements taken from their alibis, three of which contained altered information.

Findings

As expected, participants were largely blind to our alterations, with detection rates ranging from 1 to 36 percent. Contrary to cognitive load predictions, detection rates did not vary as a function of truthfulness. Rather, guilty participants were less likely to detect alterations than innocents.

Research limitations/implications

Memory distrust and guilty suspects’ aim to keep a low profile might be possible explanations for these findings.

Practical implications

It is recommended that law enforcement officers and other legal practitioners refrain from using deceptive interrogation techniques and such techniques that can cause inconsistencies in suspects’ reports. Researcher should make it their task to educate these professional groups about the natural occurrence of memory related, non-deceptive inconsistencies in successive statements.

Originality/value

This research uses a new methodology to study the effect of deceptive interrogation techniques on both innocent and guilty suspects. The findings are relevant for legal practitioners and researchers.

Article
Publication date: 8 February 2016

Jingsen Zhang, Jing Zhang and Yanchao Zhai

This paper aims to elucidate the geochemical characteristics of the hydrothermally altered rocks with gold mineralization and the elemental transfers in hydrothermal alteration

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to elucidate the geochemical characteristics of the hydrothermally altered rocks with gold mineralization and the elemental transfers in hydrothermal alteration hosted in alkaline complex in Hongshan area, Taihang Orogen, North China, and preliminarily discuss the relationship between the gold mineralization and the hydrothermal alteration.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on detailed field investigation, sampling and petrographical observation, major oxides and trace elements of nine rock samples are analyzed, and the method of mass balance equation is used in calculation of the elemental transfer.

Findings

Three alteration stages in the Hongshan area are identified, which are the early, main and late alterations. The early one is characteristic of extensive pyritization in the complex, which is related to the mantle-derived magmas and occurs before gold mineralization. The main one is characterized by developing a great deal of altered rock in fracture zones with the gain of many elements and the loss of a few elements. The late one is dominated by limonitization, that is limonite replacing the early pyrite or Fe2O3 replacing FeO in rocks. In the main alteration, the altered rocks obviously gain fluid component (LOI, i.e. loss on ignition) and elements such as V, As, Rb, Au, La, Ce and Nd and total rare earth elements (REEs). Elements such as K, Fe, Cu, Zn, Y, Mo, Sb, W, Re and U are gained in some altered rocks. Na and Sr are lost in all altered rocks, and Th and Bi are lost in some ones in the meantime. The following elements: Si, Mg, Mn, Ca, Li, Sc, Cr, Co, Ni, Zr, Ag, Ba and Hg show either gain or loss in different altered rocks. Au is notably enriched in the hydrothermal alteration. The elemental gain or loss in the altered rocks indicates that the main mineralization develops extensive de-alkalinization, local potassic metasomatism, silicification or desilicification.

Details

World Journal of Engineering, vol. 13 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1708-5284

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 March 2000

T. Bond, S.C. Liao and J.P. Turner

Prior to implementing computerised pattern alterations for figuration on a commercial CAD system, a large database with reference to the standard graded patterns, the alteration

Abstract

Prior to implementing computerised pattern alterations for figuration on a commercial CAD system, a large database with reference to the standard graded patterns, the alteration movements and relevant information needs to be generated. There are many difficulties in creating grade rules and alteration movements, especially for the bust suppression and the shaped sleeve. In order to obtain sophisticated patterns with a good fit for MTM (made‐to‐measure) clothing, the authors' pattern alteration technique is a combination of pattern design construction and grading. The procedure is divided into ten stages and the practical verification was carried out in the form of seven case studies. In addition, drafting rules on the MicroFit system for automatic pattern generation are demonstrated by converting the numerical grade rules created on the GGT AccuMark system into body‐related formulae.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 4 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Content available
Article
Publication date: 10 February 2022

Buddhi A. Weerasinghe, H. Niles Perera and Phillip Kießner

This paper examines how the altering nature of planning decisions affects operational efficiency in seaport container terminals. The uncertainty and the role of the planner were…

1604

Abstract

Purpose

This paper examines how the altering nature of planning decisions affects operational efficiency in seaport container terminals. The uncertainty and the role of the planner were investigated considering the dynamic integrated planning function of the quay to yard interface.

Design/methodology/approach

A system dynamics model has been built to illustrate the integrated dynamic environment. Data collection was conducted at a leading container terminal at a hub port. The model was simulated for different scenarios to derive findings.

Findings

The planner has been identified as the agent who makes alterations between the initial operational plan and the actual plan. The initial plan remains uncertain even when there is no impact from crane breakdowns, requiring a significant number of alterations to be made. The planner who had worked on the yard plan had altered (approximately 45%) the initial plan than the alterations done by the planner who had worked on the vessel plan. As a result, the feedback loop that is created by the remaining moves at each hourly operation influences the upcoming operation as much as crane breakdowns influence.

Originality/value

The uncertainty and the role of the planner were investigated considering the dynamic integrated planning function of the quay to yard interface. The findings of this study are significant since terminal efficiency is examined considering the quayside and landside as an integrated system.

Details

Maritime Business Review, vol. 8 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2397-3757

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 January 2010

Ayman Ismail and Husam Khalil

The purpose of this paper is to argue that it is possible to identify a number of physical design properties of plots that are associated with coastal alteration and to develop a…

1117

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to argue that it is possible to identify a number of physical design properties of plots that are associated with coastal alteration and to develop a predictive model or metric to evaluate the potential alteration caused by that resort. Investors may have economic plot size concerns not considered by planners, tourists may prefer close proximity to deep waters, and urban planners may have failed to realize the importance of certain plot ratios or minimum dimensions etc.

Design/methodology/approach

A combination of geographical information system and statistical tools is used to identify and model these properties. The research uses data from three different resorts in two countries along the Red Sea coast (Hurghada and Safaga in Egypt and Jeddah in Saudi Arabia). Landsat TM7 images are obtained for each location and analysed to detect regions with the largest alteration along the coast using the post‐classification change technique. Physical properties of each village are generated using ArcGIS 9.2 both before and after alteration. Finally, a predictive decision‐support tool for urban planners and environmental auditors is formulated using stepwise discriminant analysis.

Findings

Two‐step cluster analysis and discriminate analysis show that alteration takes place based on factors that include original width and original distance to deep water in three distinct groups. The predictive model that is developed classifies any given resort into one of three clusters, by virtue of their physical design characteristics. This gives a rough prediction of the likely alteration that might take place under a given condition. Subdivision plans that ignore the power of these two factors literally “invite” owners to violate shorelines and encroach on the sea. Planners are urged to join hands with policy makers and developers to formulate guidelines to plot subdivision and environmentally acceptable design solutions to facilitate access to deep water.

Originality/value

Till now, there has been no metric to relate a plot's geometric properties with the encroachment it makes. If such an association could be made, a developer's resort plans may be evaluated to predict the degree by which an encroachment is likely. The model can be used to identify resorts whose properties present a risk to shorelines, dredge or fill to maximize usable land. Two benefits may be thought of for this approach. First, the model helps urban planners develop a sustainable coastal area by bearing in mind the needs of tourist‐developers as well as the properties of their adjacent coast. Second, the factors can be used to rationalize building guidelines and land use regulations to minimize such risk.

Details

Management of Environmental Quality: An International Journal, vol. 21 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1477-7835

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 21 May 2020

Yamen N. Al-Betawi, Fadia H. Al Nassar, Ahmad A. Al Husban and Safa Al Husban

This study aims to trace the transformation in the form of apartment building and the connotations it has in understanding the changes that occurred in the Jordanian society’s…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to trace the transformation in the form of apartment building and the connotations it has in understanding the changes that occurred in the Jordanian society’s lifestyle over the past five decades.

Design/methodology/approach

A comparative case study analysis has been conducted amongst 170 apartments, covering 70 design attributes related to aspects of appearance, spatial organisation, parking and access to building, outdoor space and finishing. This was followed by experts and households solicitation to help giving more confidence on the validity and reliability of findings regarding the sorts and justifications for the changes that have taken place in the form of apartments over the studied time frame.

Findings

The results reveal changes in design attributes indicating particular alterations in people’s lifestyle. New interests act in formulating recent housing design attributes. People seem to turn into a more open social life within public community but more privatised living amongst family members. People are becoming more attached to indoor modernised lifestyle, in homes and public areas where activities take place. This entails pursuing a more comfortable, facilitating and enjoyable life that presents luxury and tranquillity.

Originality/value

Understanding the relationship between transformations in the built form of apartment buildings and the associated social alterations provides useful insights towards improving housing provision to better match the ever-changing demands of people and respond to alterations in their lifestyles.

Article
Publication date: 22 May 2007

Yunchu Yang, Weiyuan Zhang and Cong Shan

The paper aims to provide an overview of the area of digital pattern developing for customized apparel.

3128

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to provide an overview of the area of digital pattern developing for customized apparel.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper outlines several methods of digital pattern developing for customized apparel, and discusses the principles, characters and applications. Digital pattern developing process has two paths. One path develops apparel according to traditional 2D pattern‐making technology. There are three methods: parametric design, traditional grading technique, and pattern generating based on artificial intelligence (AI). Another path develops pattern through surface flattening directly from individual 3D apparel model.

Findings

For parametric method, it can improve greatly the efficiency of pattern design or pattern alteration. However, the development and application of parametric Computer‐Aided‐Design (CAD) systems in apparel industry are difficult, because apparel pattern has fewer laws in graphical structure. For grading technique, it is the most practical method because of its simple theory, with which pattern masters are familiar. But these methods require users with higher experience. Creating expert pattern system based on AI can reduce the experience requirements. Meanwhile, a great deal of experiments should be conducted for each garment with different style to create their knowledge databases. For 3D CAD technology, two methods of surface flattening have been outlined, namely geometry flattening and physical flattening. But many improvements should be done if the 3D CAD systems are applied in apparel mass customization.

Originality/value

The paper provides information of value to the future research on developing a practical made‐to‐measure apparel pattern system.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 19 no. 3/4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 January 1988

Helmut W. Jenkis and John C. O'Brien

The Eastern and Western worlds are diametrically opposed to each other not only politically and militarily but also economically and socially. In the socialist lands the communist…

Abstract

The Eastern and Western worlds are diametrically opposed to each other not only politically and militarily but also economically and socially. In the socialist lands the communist one‐party system is dominant; in the West it is political pluralism, in Comecon the planned economy prevails, and in the Common Market and the USA it is the market economy, of course, although not in the form it took in the nineteenth century. From a social point of view the Eastern bloc guarantees full employment at a lower standard of living, in the market economy the higher standard of living is accompanied by structural, cyclical unemployment. Each system claims to be superior to the other.

Details

International Journal of Social Economics, vol. 15 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0306-8293

Article
Publication date: 28 October 2022

Claire Dambrin and Bénédicte Grall

This paper highlights how technical devices last in organizations. Instead of focusing on the usual implementation or short-term post-implementation phases, this study aims to…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper highlights how technical devices last in organizations. Instead of focusing on the usual implementation or short-term post-implementation phases, this study aims to explore what happens to established technical devices.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors build on a 10-year in-depth longitudinal case study examining a CRM package, a type of Enterprise Resource Planning system specialized in customer relationship management, in a door-drop advertising company. This case is based mainly on 35 interviews and four weeks of non-participant observation, made over three different periods.

Findings

Drawing on the literature on drift and maintenance, this study investigates two tensions foregrounding lasting: one regarding the degree of human intervention on the technical device (object being maintained vs object maintaining itself) and one regarding the relationship to the initial expectations towards the technical device (relinquishment of certain hopes vs regeneration of interests). This case combines these tensions and allows to highlight four alterations in the CRM system to show how apparently stable devices keep on changing.

Social implications

In a time of resource exhaustion, it is important to reflect upon our relationships to information technology and their modalities of lasting. By stressing that uses emerge from relinquishment and reduction, the authors wish to help organizations move towards more sustainable engagement with their technical devices in the long run.

Originality/value

Lasting is not just a matter of being maintained in a context of threat but also builds upon the capacities of a technical device to maintain itself. The self-alteration dynamics that the authors come up with, shedding and ramification, offer a dedramatized interpretation of maintenance that complements studies on institutional maintenance. The results also contribute to studies on technological drift. The authors stress that drifts are triggered by ties that run out, in particular, discontinuation of maintenance in the system. The durability of technical devices in organizations thus does not consist in always more uses or functionalities, but is also made of reductions and relinquishment.

Details

Qualitative Research in Accounting & Management, vol. 20 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1176-6093

Keywords

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