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The purpose of this paper is to investigate the use of steam in order to replace air in the production of spun-like textured yarns. Further, this paper analyse the effect of production speed on process and textured yarn properties.

An existing air-jet texturing machine was modified to supply either air or steam to the texturing nozzle. Using standard commercial nozzles, both air-jet and steam-jet textured yarns were manufactured by varying production speed.

It can be concluded that steam can be used as an alternative fluid for air in making spun-like textured yarns. Results show that yarn parameters for steam-jet texturing show a similar trend to those of air-jet texturing relative to the production speed. Further, sewing threads made from steam-jet textured yarns showed good sewability up to the speeds of 350 m/min.

Only the effect of production speed on process and yarn parameters is discussed in this paper. Production speed was limited to 350 m/min due to machine constraints.

Steam is more economical than air to manufacture spun-like textured yarn at commercial pressures such as 8 bar. Steam-jet textured yarns could be used for commercial applications such as sewing threads at competitive speeds. Further, steam could be generated using sustainable and renewable fuel sources such as biomass.

This research introduced steam as an alternative fluid for air in manufacturing spun-like textured yarns.

Examines the tenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

The goal of the research presented is to analyse seam strength properties of polyester and polyester‐polytetrafluoroethylene air‐jet textured sewing threads.

These threads are designed for sewing various garments and are manufactured by the Department of Textile Technology at Kaunas University of Technology. Manufacturing parameters are varied during air‐jet‐texturing, which includes air pressure, effect and core yarns overfeed. Tensile tests of sewing threads and seams strength tests are performed.

They indicate that the strength of seams depends on the properties of sewing threads.

Analysis of the seam strength of PES‐PTFE air‐jet‐textured sewing threads.

The effect of pick density, constituent filament fineness and heat‐setting on the fabric thickness and compressional properties have been studied before and after laundering. With the increase in pick density fabric thickness, compression and compressibility increases up to a certain extent. Coarser filament textured yarn fabric have higher thickness, compression and compressibility than that of finer filament textured yarn fabrics. Heat‐set fabrics possess higher thickness, compression and compressibility than the grey textured yarn fabrics. However, fabric compressional recovery and resiliency are mainly influenced by the fabric pick density rather than the effect of heat‐setting and filament fineness of constituent textured yarns. On laundering, fabric thickness, compression and compressibility improve particularly for the fabric of lower pick density. The effect of laundering is marginal on fabric compressional recovery and resiliency.

This empirical study aims to investigate the erosion wear performance of two different 3D-printed materials (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene [ABS] and polylactic acid [PLA]) with various micro textures. The two different textures (prism and square) were created over the surfaces of both materials by using the 3D-printed technique.

The erosion experiments on both materials were performed by using Ducom Erosion Jet Tester. Erosion tests were performed at four different impacting velocities (15, 30, 45 and 60 m/s) with the four different particle sizes (17, 39, 63 97 µm) at the impact angles (30°–90°) for the time duration of 5, 10, 15 and 20 min. The two different textures prism and cone were used for performing the erosion experiments. Taguchi’s orthogonal L16 (mixed level) was used to reduce the number of experiments and to determine the impact of these parameters on erosion wear performance of both 3D-printed materials.

The PLA with cone texture was found to be best (against erosion) than the ABS cone and prism textures due to their high hardness (68 HV). Also, the average signal to noise (S/N) ratio for PLA and ABS was measured as 56.4 and 44.4 dB, respectively. As the value of the S/N ratio is inversely proportional to the erosion rate, the PLA has the least erosion rate as compared to the ABS. The sequence of erosion wear influencing parameters for both materials was in the following order: velocity > erodent size > texture > impact angle > time interval.

Both PLA and ABS with different micro textures for erosion testing were studied with Taguchi’s optimization method, and the erosion mechanisms are well analyzed by using scanning electron microscopy and Image J techniques.

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam.

This section is not applicable for a review paper.

Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems.

It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.

Seam efficiency plays an important role for obtaining a desired seam quality. Therefore, this issue is often referred in research papers. The purpose of this paper is to determine the seam strength and efficiency as well as examining, if and how such factors as: a kind of fabric, kind of thread, kind of seam and the stitch density influence the transverse seam strength and the seam efficiency.

For research four types of polyester/wool fabrics having different structural parameters and two types of polyester sewing threads were used. Three types of seam were made. The fabric samples were sewn using lockstitch with three different stitch densities. Obtained in this way seams were tested on the tensile machine. The influence of individual factors on the seam strength and its efficiency was assessed statistically using a multivariate variance analysis (ANOVA).

The findings of this study revealed that the independent variable – stitch density affect significantly of the seam strength as well as its efficiency. Seam strength and seam efficiency values increase with the increase stitch density. Moreover, the variance analysis showed that a kind of fabric also is a statistically significant factor for the seam efficiency and its strength. Furthermore, in the case of seam efficiency it is also important to the stitch direction. However, the study did not show an impact of kind of thread and kind of seam on dependent variables: the seam strength and its efficiency.

Due to the fact that this paper focuses on the seams made only on wool/polyester fabrics with two the most popular weaves, involving only two sewing PES threads, the conclusions presented in this paper are valid only to this assortment and cannot be generalized.

So far, it has not been taken research on the effect of seams with the different number of sewn layers on the seam strength and efficiency. This issue has been taken in this work.

This paper aims to overview the current status of development and application of digital image processing technology used for the yarn hairiness evaluation.

Digital image processing technology is one of the new methods used for the yarn detection, which can be used for the digital characterization and objective evaluation of yarn appearance. The comparison between the traditional detection methods and this new developed method was made and analyzed.

Compared with the traditional methods, image-based methods have the advantages of being objective, fast and accurate. Therefore, it was proved that digital image processing techniques should be a new trend in terms of the yarn appearance evaluation.

In recent times, stretch denim garments have become very popular amongst consumers as the garment is able to provide body fit and body comfort at the same time. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of abrasion on the change in surface appearance, mass loss and ultimate tensile properties of the stretch denim fabric in different directions (warp, weft and biased).

After abrading the fabrics in three different directions (warp, weft and biased), the loss in ultimate tensile properties, mass loss and surface appearance has been investigated in the respective directions of abrasion (warp, weft and biased). The study also encompasses the effect of different types of stretch yarn with varying levels of elastane content on such unidirectional abrasive damage.

It is seen that with the same level of abrasion cycles, the fabric's response in terms of mass loss and loss in ultimate tensile properties are different in different directions. The mass loss due to abrasion in biased direction is found to be minimum. The loss in ultimate tensile properties due to abrasion was highest in the weft direction. It is also found that the higher mass loss due to abrasion does not always result in a greater loss in ultimate tensile properties. The composition and the structure of the weft yarn significantly affected the extent of the mass loss and the loss in ultimate tensile properties during abrasive damage.

The impact of abrasive damage in terms of mass loss and loss in tensile strength along the different directions of denim fabric has not been explored till date. Abrasion of fabric can be done both in multi-direction (Lissajous motion) as well as in uni-direction (linear motion). The multidirectional abrasion provides a holistic or comprehensive idea of the fabric's response to the abrasive damage but does not take into consideration the fabric's anisotropic response to the abrasive damage. Most of the earlier investigation related to abrasive damage of denim fabric has been done in instruments where the motion of the abrader is multidirectional (Lissajous) in nature. For greater depth of understanding about the fabric performance under abrasive damage along the various direction (warp, weft and biased), unidirectional abrasion is conducted in this study.

In recent times, the usage of elastane-containing denim garments has increased, as it provides fit and comfort both at the same time. The purpose of the study is to understand the effect of abrasion on the durability of comfort related to body movement and shape retention property of the stretch-denim fabric.

The paper investigates the effect of abrasion on the initial tensile properties, recovery and resilience properties of the stretch-denim fabric. Further, to analyse the effect of the composition of the elastane yarn, three different types of elastane yarns having different types of sheath (covering) fibre, structure and different levels of elastane content have been used in the weft.

The comfort related to body movement and the shape retention properties of the stretch-denim fabric got affected due to abrasive damage. The elastane yarn composition and structure played an important role in determining the extent of the change in such properties during abrasion. The fabric with a higher level of elastane content suffered a greater loss in shape-retention properties due to abrasion. The extent of mass loss in stretch-denim fabric does not always correlate to the extent of loss in the comfort and shape-retention properties.

Most of the earlier studies have investigated the effect of abrasion on the durability aspect of the stretch-denim fabric. In a practical scenario, the stretch-denim garments are rarely discarded due to tearing or change in appearance but mainly due to bagging, i.e. distortion in shape after usage. Thus, the study on the combined effect of the abrasion and cyclic loading on the comfort and shape-retention properties will help to predict the performance of the apparel during usage.