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Article
Publication date: 22 May 2007

Rui Miguel, José Lucas, Lurdes Carvalho, Manuel Santos Silva and Albert Manich

The breaking strength compromises fabric wearing out during wear of garments and is a determining parameter in their useful life. Thus, it is intended to compare the efficacy of…

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Abstract

Purpose

The breaking strength compromises fabric wearing out during wear of garments and is a determining parameter in their useful life. Thus, it is intended to compare the efficacy of each method concerning the understanding of results, which is, the explanation of the phenomenon, namely through statistical models which characterize abrasion strength, measured by each method, as a function of fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST) parameters.

Design/methodology/approach

The simulation of abrasion mechanism was done on Martindale wear and abrasion tester, following two ways: the weight loss and two yarns breakage methods. The average weight loss of a fabric was determined among four specimens (in mg/5,000 cy). Fabric abrasion was done against a standard wool fabric under a 12 KPa pressure. In the two yarns breakage method, the number of abrasion cycles required to break two yarns is determined according to Woolmark Company TM 112 test standard.

Findings

In general, no better models to explain abrasion strength by the breakage of two yarns method are achieved when FAST variables are considered respecting those based on classical ones. However, for woollen fabrics, there is an interesting model, which gathers classical and FAST variables with higher explanation: shear rigidity and polyamide composition. This allows one to conclude that this FAST parameter performs an important role in the abrasion behaviour of fabrics.

Originality/value

As the abrasion consequences cause fabric degradation, a better understanding is obtained of the different abrasion stage mechanisms, which explain both evaluation methods: breakage of two yarns and weight loss. It is intended to gather conditions for a future definition of a single and comprehensive evaluation methodology of abrasion.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 19 no. 3/4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 January 2006

Ayanna Card, Mary Ann Moore and Mary Ankeny

This paper reports on the effects of laundering on physical properties (pilling and edge abrasion) of washed denim fabrics.

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Abstract

Purpose

This paper reports on the effects of laundering on physical properties (pilling and edge abrasion) of washed denim fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

Garment washed denim blue jeans were subjected to repeated launderings; the effects of the cycles on pilling and edge abrasion were determined. Data were collected by means of a laboratory experimental factorial design. Analysis of variance was used to determine significant differences in the three garment washed treatments; pre‐washed, stone washed and enzyme treated blue jeans. Duncan's test of multiple range determined the source of significance.

Findings

The pre‐washed jeans were more prone to pilling than the enzyme and stone washed jeans. On the other hand, the pre‐washed jeans experienced the least amount of edge abrasion while the stone washed experienced the most.

Practical implications

The results can be used by the denim garment manufacturers to design and engineer their products to suit the customer demands.

Originality/value

Jeans are an important part of a consumer's wardrobe and a large portion of denim garments are manufactured with some type of garment wash treatment. Results of this study will provide denim garment manufacturers with pilling and abrasion information regarding garment washing treatments to allow them to utilize the garment treatment that best meets their needs.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 18 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 March 2024

Azita Asayesh and Fatemeh Kolahi Mahmoodi

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the…

Abstract

Purpose

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the case of knitted fabrics. Since, these fabric features are affected by fabric structure the aim of present research is to investigate how utilizing miss stitches and tuck stitches in the fabric structure for design purposes will influence the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, interlock fabrics with different number of miss or tuck stitches on successive Wales were produced and pilling performance and abrasion resistance of the fabrics were investigated.

Findings

The results revealed that increasing the number of miss/tuck stitches on successive Wales decreases the abrasion resistance and enhances the pilling tendency of the fabric. The presence of miss/tuck stitches on both sides of the fabric improves the abrasion resistance and pilling performance of the fabric compared to fabrics containing these stitches on one side of the fabric. Furthermore, the fabric resistance against abrasion and pilling is higher in fabrics consisting of miss stitches compared to fabrics consisting of tuck stitches.

Originality/value

The use of tuck and miss stitches in designing the weft-knitted fabrics is a common method for producing fabrics with variety of knit patterns. Since pilling and abrasion resistance of the fabric influence on its appearance and performance, and none of the previous research studied the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock-knitted fabrics from the point of presence of tuck and miss stitches on successive Wales of the fabric, this subject has been surveyed in the present research.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 September 2021

Vivek Prasad Shaw and Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay

In recent times, the usage of elastane-containing denim garments has increased, as it provides fit and comfort both at the same time. The purpose of the study is to understand the…

Abstract

Purpose

In recent times, the usage of elastane-containing denim garments has increased, as it provides fit and comfort both at the same time. The purpose of the study is to understand the effect of abrasion on the durability of comfort related to body movement and shape retention property of the stretch-denim fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper investigates the effect of abrasion on the initial tensile properties, recovery and resilience properties of the stretch-denim fabric. Further, to analyse the effect of the composition of the elastane yarn, three different types of elastane yarns having different types of sheath (covering) fibre, structure and different levels of elastane content have been used in the weft.

Findings

The comfort related to body movement and the shape retention properties of the stretch-denim fabric got affected due to abrasive damage. The elastane yarn composition and structure played an important role in determining the extent of the change in such properties during abrasion. The fabric with a higher level of elastane content suffered a greater loss in shape-retention properties due to abrasion. The extent of mass loss in stretch-denim fabric does not always correlate to the extent of loss in the comfort and shape-retention properties.

Originality/value

Most of the earlier studies have investigated the effect of abrasion on the durability aspect of the stretch-denim fabric. In a practical scenario, the stretch-denim garments are rarely discarded due to tearing or change in appearance but mainly due to bagging, i.e. distortion in shape after usage. Thus, the study on the combined effect of the abrasion and cyclic loading on the comfort and shape-retention properties will help to predict the performance of the apparel during usage.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 31 May 2022

Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay and Vivek Prasad Shaw

In recent times, stretch denim garments have become very popular amongst consumers as the garment is able to provide body fit and body comfort at the same time. The purpose of…

Abstract

Purpose

In recent times, stretch denim garments have become very popular amongst consumers as the garment is able to provide body fit and body comfort at the same time. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of abrasion on the change in surface appearance, mass loss and ultimate tensile properties of the stretch denim fabric in different directions (warp, weft and biased).

Design/methodology/approach

After abrading the fabrics in three different directions (warp, weft and biased), the loss in ultimate tensile properties, mass loss and surface appearance has been investigated in the respective directions of abrasion (warp, weft and biased). The study also encompasses the effect of different types of stretch yarn with varying levels of elastane content on such unidirectional abrasive damage.

Findings

It is seen that with the same level of abrasion cycles, the fabric's response in terms of mass loss and loss in ultimate tensile properties are different in different directions. The mass loss due to abrasion in biased direction is found to be minimum. The loss in ultimate tensile properties due to abrasion was highest in the weft direction. It is also found that the higher mass loss due to abrasion does not always result in a greater loss in ultimate tensile properties. The composition and the structure of the weft yarn significantly affected the extent of the mass loss and the loss in ultimate tensile properties during abrasive damage.

Originality/value

The impact of abrasive damage in terms of mass loss and loss in tensile strength along the different directions of denim fabric has not been explored till date. Abrasion of fabric can be done both in multi-direction (Lissajous motion) as well as in uni-direction (linear motion). The multidirectional abrasion provides a holistic or comprehensive idea of the fabric's response to the abrasive damage but does not take into consideration the fabric's anisotropic response to the abrasive damage. Most of the earlier investigation related to abrasive damage of denim fabric has been done in instruments where the motion of the abrader is multidirectional (Lissajous) in nature. For greater depth of understanding about the fabric performance under abrasive damage along the various direction (warp, weft and biased), unidirectional abrasion is conducted in this study.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 August 2011

Yasemin Bulut and Vildan Sülar

The purpose of this paper is to examine the effects of coating process parameters (base fabric, coating material, coating technique and production parameters) on mechanical…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to examine the effects of coating process parameters (base fabric, coating material, coating technique and production parameters) on mechanical properties of coated fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, 24 coated fabrics were produced under controlled production conditions by using two cotton base fabrics and two coating materials as polyurethane (PU), PU/silicone in order to study how coating affects some of the base fabric's mechanical properties such as breaking strength, breaking elongation, tear strength, bursting strength, bending rigidity and abrasion resistance. The measured data were evaluated with variance analysis to determine the effects of the coating parameters at 95 per cent confidence level.

Findings

Breaking strength shows increments for almost all fabrics, whereas breaking elongation values decreased by coating application. Coating has a very clear influence on tear strength of coated fabrics due to the penetration of coating material into the fabric structure. Changes in bursting strength are not similar for two base fabrics with systematically changed production parameters. Coating improves all measured parameters of bending rigidity. Coating application enhances abrasion resistance though some broken fibers are observed on the fabric surface in scanning electron microscopy investigation.

Originality/value

In the past few years, the researches on this area focused on investigating the effects of coating materials and layers on tensile properties. This study comprehensively examines the effects of several coating parameters on mechanical properties such as breaking strength, breaking elongation, tear strength, bursting strength, bending rigidity and abrasion resistance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 23 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2009

A. Das, P. Chakroborty and P. Kumar

An approach to measurement of fabric hairiness based on image processing is developed and demonstrated in the present study. The total system consists of two components: i) a…

Abstract

An approach to measurement of fabric hairiness based on image processing is developed and demonstrated in the present study. The total system consists of two components: i) a mechanical setup for image grabbing; and ii) analysis software for measurement of hairiness values based on suitable algorithms using MATLAB software. The software is able to detect the best estimated edge of fabrics and subsequently the fabric hairiness values are calculated precisely. A series of polyester-viscose blended fabrics with varying blend ratios are selected for the study. The fabrics were selected in such a way that all other parameters were the same except blend ratios. The fabrics were subject to different abrasion cycles and their hairiness values were then measured. With an increase in abrasion cycling, the average length of hairs increases and a similar trend is observed for all blended fabrics except the 100% viscose fabric. With an increase in viscose content in polyester-viscose blended fabrics, the hairiness value increases generally.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 13 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 June 2017

Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay, Vinay Kumar Midha and Nemai Chandra Ray

This study aims to optimize the parametric combination of injected slub yarn to achieve least abrasive damage on fabrics produced from it.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to optimize the parametric combination of injected slub yarn to achieve least abrasive damage on fabrics produced from it.

Design/methodology/approach

Single base injected slub yarn structural parameters, vis-à-vis slub length, slub thickness and slub frequency, were varied during preparation of yarn samples under this research work. A total of 17 yarn samples were produced according to the Box and Bhenken design of the experiment. Subsequently knitted and woven (using injected slub yarns in the weft only) fabric samples were prepared from these yarns. Yarn and fabric samples were abraded with standard instruments to see the impact of yarn structural parameters on abrasive damage of fabric in terms of fabric mass loss and appearance deterioration. From the test results, empirical models relating to slub parameters and fabric abrasion behavior were developed through a backward elimination regression approach. Subsequently, a set of optimal parametric combinations was derived with multi-objective evolutionary algorithms by using MATLAB software. This was followed by ranking all optimal solutions through technique for order preference by similarity to idle solution (TOPSIS) score analysis.

Findings

The injected slub yarn’s structural parameters have a strong influence on the abrasive damage of knitted and woven fabric. It is seen that the best suitable parametric combination of slub parameters for achieving the least abrasive damage is not the same for knitted and woven fabric.

Practical implications

The spinner can explore this concept to find out the best suitable parametric combination during pattern making of injected slub yarn through MATLAB solution followed by TOPSIS score analysis based on their priority of criteria level to ensure better abrasion behavior of fabric produced.

Originality/value

Optimization of parametric combination of injected slub yarns will help to ensure production of fabric with most resistance to abrasion for specific applications. The studies showed that the optimal solution for woven and knitted fabrics is different. The result indicates that in the case of knitted fabric, comparatively lesser slub thickness is found to be suitable for getting better fabric abrasion resistance, whereas in the case of woven fabric, comparatively higher slub thickness is found suitable for the same.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 19 February 2024

Sabiha Sezgin Bozok

Titanium(IV) oxide nanoparticles (TiO2 NP) were deposited to cotton denim fabrics using a self-crosslinking acrylate – a polymer dispersion to extend the lifetime of the products…

Abstract

Purpose

Titanium(IV) oxide nanoparticles (TiO2 NP) were deposited to cotton denim fabrics using a self-crosslinking acrylate – a polymer dispersion to extend the lifetime of the products. This study aims to determine the optimum conditions to increase abrasion resistance, to provide self-cleaning properties of denim fabrics and to examine the effects of these applications on other physical properties.

Design/methodology/approach

The denim samples were first treated with nonionic surfactant to increase their wettability. Three different amounts of the polymer dispersion and two different pH levels were selected for the experimental design. The finishing process was applied to the fabrics with pad-dry-cure method.

Findings

The presence of the coatings and the adhesion of TiO2 NPs to the surfaces were confirmed by scanning electron microscope and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy analysis. It was ascertained that the most appropriate self-crosslinking acrylate amount and ambient pH level is 10 mL and “2”, respectively, for providing increased abrasion resistance (2,78%) and enhanced self-cleaning properties (363,4%) in the denim samples. The coating reduced the air permeability and softness of the denim samples. Differential scanning calorimetry and thermogravimetry analysis results showed that the treatments increased the crystallization temperatures and melting enthalpy values of the denim samples. Based on the thermal test results, it is clear that mass loss of the denim samples at 370°C decreased as the amount of self-crosslinking acrylate increased (at pH 3).

Originality/value

This study helped us to find out optimum amount of self-crosslinking acrylate and proper pH level for enhanced self-cleaning and abrasion strength on denim fabrics. With this finishing process, an environmentally friendly and long-life denim fabric was designed.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 2009

A. Kianiha, M. Ghane and D. Semnani

Fabric fuzziness is a property which affects the appearance, handle, thermal insulation and other fabric features; it also leads to pilling that is a serious problem for the…

Abstract

Fabric fuzziness is a property which affects the appearance, handle, thermal insulation and other fabric features; it also leads to pilling that is a serious problem for the apparel industry. Fuzz on fabric surface has been measured mostly by subjective methods (human vision) rather than objective methods. In this study, an objective method using image analysis techniques is developed for the measurement of fuzz on fabric surface. The effects of fibers blend ratio and abrasion on fabric fuzziness are evaluated. For this purpose, several blended plain fabrics including polyester/viscose fibers with different blend ratios were produced and abraded under various cycles of traversing abrasion. Yarn hairiness was also measured using an Uster tester 4 apparatus before weaving. High correlation between Uster 4 data and the results obtained from the fuzz measurement of fabrics demonstrates that this method has high accuracy and great potential for the determination of fabric fuzziness levels in a quantitative and reliable manner.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 13 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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