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In order to mass‐customize clothes, it is essential to consider individual body shape using computerized 3D body models. This paper describes the development of an interactive body model that can be altered with individual body shape for the purpose of computerized pattern making.Design/methodology/approach – For altering perimeter and length for contouring individual body shapes, a cross‐sectional line model is proposed arranged at regular intervals. This model is easy for controlling body shape and also for calculating length and perimeters. Shape control lines (SCL) are used to modify the shape of the model in order to adjust the model to represent different body shapes. SCL are used to modify the perimeter of the cross‐sectional line by scaling method with different center position and scaling ratio in a horizontal direction.Findings – In order to investigate whether virtual body models can be adequately substituted for real physical models, the perimeter and cross‐section areas of shape control lines were compared, which resulted in an agreement ratio of over 93 percent. This fact supports the adaptability and potential usefulness of the body model.Originality/value – This research makes it possible for customers to modify the body model to match their own body shape during internet or catalogue shopping; it can also enable apparel manufacturers to communicate with their customers by describing the body model to fit on the screen while in the ordering process.

The aim of this paper is to explore a method of predicting the amount of personalized bra cup dart in the 3D virtual environment for supporting the made‐to‐measure research of the optimum fitted brassiere pattern design.

Very useful enhanced FFD (free‐form‐deformation) techniques used in both computer animation and geometric modeling were skillfully transplanted to the female breast model deformation. Meanwhile, on the basis of 3D scan and surface modeling technologies, the realization approach of the abstract female breast model library focusing on the individual variations of shapes and sizes was presented. Then according to the principle of isometric area and flabellate segments, the personalized bra cup dart quantity and its distributive information were provided by 3D‐2D transformation.

The paper finds that personalized female breast shapes and various aesthetic breast forms sculpted by different bras could be interactively simulated. Accordingly, the amount of corresponding individual bra cup dart and its distributive information were provided. The cup darts were mainly distributed below the bust line. Moreover, dart shapes were curvy.

The principles of virtual breast library construction and 3D‐2D transformation are also suitable for other parts of the human body such as buttocks, abdomen and, etc. for intimate apparel research.

The method of predicting the personalized bra cup dart quantity based on the 3D virtual breast model library was delivered for the first time. The novel findings provided an important guideline for designers to improve the well‐fitted bra pattern design technique. Furthermore, it would reduce the manufacturing cost without keeping physical dummies.

In order to present a significant usage of the computer-aided design (CAD)/computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) systems in the apparel and textile industry, the current literature has been observed. Although the CAD/CAM systems have also been increasingly applied to all fields apparel and textile manufacturing for the last few decades, improving the precision, productivity and the organization of the information flow, they have not been fully utilized in these industrial fields. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

The paper is structured in three main sections showing the vast applicability of the CAD/CAM systems, the benefits provided by them and the future trend in their development.

Although the initial development of the CAD/CAM systems strived to completely eliminate manual and time-consuming operations, they have not been accepted in practice due to their inflexibility at making changes and the time needed for regenerating a complex parametric model. The textile and apparel industries show slow progress in acquiring the CAD/CAM systems.

This CAD/CAM technology enabled the customization in the design process according to individual needs and directed the textile and the apparel industry to moving into new directions such as the mass customization to personalization. The paper makes clear that although this technological concept is rather old, the use of the CAD/CAM systems will inevitably broaden in terms of applicability to new production stages.

This paper aims to describe the development of an interactive body model that can be altered to match individual body perimeter, postures and depth for the purpose of computerized pattern making.

Construction of the posture and depth adjustable body model requires the extraction of ten points, adjustment of coordinate points, linking of points by spline curves, control of section lengths and selectability of three hip types. Front to back depth of the model is adjusted by scaling ratio.

Good results were achieved in modelling back shapes, such as flat shape and stoop shape, and of modelling various hip shapes, such as flat shape and protruding shape. Also the presented body model is able to accurately simulate individual depth of bust, waist and hips. Silhouette comparison between the fully adjusted virtual body model and real body shapes shows an almost perfect match. A primary dialog for altering perimeter, length and depth, and a posture dialog for controlling back and hip shapes was developed.

By making fine adjustments to posture and depth, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties. This system could, therefore, be seen as a major step forward in pattern making.

The purpose of this paper is to develop a virtual body that resembles the customer’s body shape using only the minimum information provided by the customer and without requiring individually scanned data.

The target of this study includes the three-dimensional scanned data of 91 senior women aged 60 or older and human body measurement data of 268 people. The parametric virtual body was generated in three steps: a basic virtual body, a trans-shaped virtual body, and a trans-sized virtual body.

Using organic relationships found in the body shape factors of the lower body, this study developed an algorithm to generate elderly women’s parametric virtual lower body that is quick and reproducible. Having tested the reproducibility of the algorithm, the parametric virtual body showed excellent reproducibility vis-à-vis the personal scanned data in both the shape acceptability and size acceptability.

Because virtual bodies in this study are based on the results of body shape analysis related to apparel design, those resembling customer body shapes can be quickly and accurately generated. In addition, because body shape information for target groups is provided to the clothing manufacturers, it will likely contribute significantly to enhancing clothes fitting.

The purpose of this paper is to develop a multi‐purpose body form that could be used to develop different types of garments by putting body skins with ease on the standard body form.

Free form deformation method was used to generate a virtual model upon the basis of the averaged wire frame. The virtual model was made into a real‐life model by a rapid prototyping (RP) process, and then, the standard body form was made by molding the RP. The 3D polygon shell for a body skin got flattened down to 2D patterns and made by a urethane material.

The standard body form developed by using 3D body scan data better represented the characteristics of the body shapes than the previously hand‐made ones. In addition, by standardizing the production of the body form itself, it is now possible to make body forms into the standards and be consistent in their qualities.

This paper presents the methodology of utilizing 3D body scan data in a garment design, which is possible by incorporating advanced 3D modeling technologies and 3D data of a human body in making body forms. For the mass production of a body skin, it is necessary to develop various special materials simulating soft tissues.

The apparel industry can enjoy cost cutting effects by using this multi‐purpose body form. A company does not have to spend money in purchasing different sizes and shapes of body forms, let alone saving the spaces to store them once purchased.

This paper presents a method to fabricate a fitting-mannequin using 3D-scanning, modeling and printing technologies.

Scan data were obtained from 12 subjects with body size in the average range, selected from 208 women aged 20–29. The 3D-scan data were modified by selecting cross-sections from the cloud data, symmetrizing body shapes and obtaining mean points of body shapes. Fifteen spline curves, generated by connecting the mean points on the X–Y plane, were used as sketches and loft features to create the 3D mannequin models. A lower-body fitting mannequin was printed with polylactic acid plastic using a fused deposition-modeling 3D printer.

The cross-section circumference discrepancies among the 3D-printed mannequins in each step were within 1%, demonstrating the applicability and reliability of the 3D technologies proposed for mass customization.

The proposed methodology demonstrates the value of using 3D-scanning data to manufacture fitting-mannequins via mass customization. The study demonstrates the possibility and practicality of using 3D techniques to produce commercially viable fitting mannequins for the fashion industry.

The purpose of this paper is to determine the effects of clothing ease and body postures on the size and distribution of the air gap as well as the body coverage with the clothing.

Visual and quantitative analyses were conducted using a 3D body scanner and Geomagic Software. The air gap size and clothing area factor (f_cl) in three test coverall and seven selected postures were calculated and compared.

The results indicated that both the clothing ease and body postures had a strong effect on the air gap and clothing coverage, especially the more complex the postures, the wider the range of influence. Nevertheless, these effects varied over body regions, being stronger at the lower body than the upper body. The air gap size at the left side of the body was generally larger than the right side. It was also found that the clothing coverage was linearly correlated with the air gap size and could be employed as an indicator to evaluate clothing protective capabilities.

The findings suggested that greater attention should be paid to the protection and flexibility at the lower body and asymmetrical distribution of the air gap should be considered in the future air gap modeling.

The outcomes provided useful information to improve the protective clothing and develop more realistic air gap models to simulate the heat and mass transfer.

The study in this article aims to focus on a novel design concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the CAD softwares in order to directly conceive the virtual clothing on a mannequin morphotype in cyberspace in consideration of the ease allowance between the body shape and the garment.

The method of acquisition of 3D human body was explained at first. Then the process of creation of garment 3D model associated with the draping technique was presented. The superposition of patterns from the 3D modeling and the traditional method used in industries was done in order to visualize the right results. At last, the dynamic validation of the garment was carried out in order to analyze the fitting results of try‐on simulation.

The 3D modeling technique method based on the draping technique shows that the garment fits perfectly to the body shape of the wearer.

For the ready‐to‐wear manufacture, this method can be also involved on the parametric mannequin in order to reduce the lifetime of development by eliminating the process of pattern grading in the future.

The originality of this article comes from the combination of the traditional draping technique with the advanced CAD softwares in consideration of the fitting and draping of the garment. This concept is used not only in the context of mass customized product but also in mass production for the ready‐to‐wear apparel industries. The patterns are directly adjusted in 3D and can immediately be tried on in 3D simulation. As a result, the process in 2D patternmaking design can be eliminated.

In order to mass‐customize clothes, it is essential to create prototype pattern according to individual body shape. The purpose of this paper is to present a new method to generate prototype pattern based on individual three‐dimensional (3D) virtual dummy for further study on apparel customization.

The symmetrized preprocessing and convex hull method are employed to create a dress‐like virtual dummy based on 3D body scanning data. The corresponding structure lines of 2D prototype pattern are defined on the 3D dummy in advance and 3D dummy surface (only half) is cut into ten zones. Based on the characteristics of each surface, further subdivision was made in each zone to create 3D wireframe of garment prototype by calculating the intersection curves between the dummy surface and local planners. Via flattening geometrically 3D wireframe of each zone, final pattern of the prototype is got. Moreover, during the course of flattening of each zone, define constrained lines in advance so as to ensure the position and direction of each cutting pattern beforehand.

The paper finds that 2D cutting patterns of the prototype have been constructed from the computerized 3D dummy. The length of major structure lines for both 3D model and 2D cutting pattern remain the same. The seven out of ten of cutting patterns have area error within ±1 cm² compared to 3D surface. Only two cutting have relatively larger error but controlled within 3 cm².

The most outstanding property of the method developed is the possibility of geometrical transformation of 3D surface to 2D pattern through constructing 3D wireframe of the prototype garment, with no need to define physical‐mechanical properties of fabric used. The newly created 2D cutting patterns have the coincident construction and shape with conventional prototype and are of outstanding quality and preciseness.