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Article
Publication date: 8 March 2021

Seolyoung Oh and Dongae Suh

This paper presents a method to fabricate a fitting-mannequin using 3D-scanning, modeling and printing technologies.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper presents a method to fabricate a fitting-mannequin using 3D-scanning, modeling and printing technologies.

Design/methodology/approach

Scan data were obtained from 12 subjects with body size in the average range, selected from 208 women aged 20–29. The 3D-scan data were modified by selecting cross-sections from the cloud data, symmetrizing body shapes and obtaining mean points of body shapes. Fifteen spline curves, generated by connecting the mean points on the X–Y plane, were used as sketches and loft features to create the 3D mannequin models. A lower-body fitting mannequin was printed with polylactic acid plastic using a fused deposition-modeling 3D printer.

Findings

The cross-section circumference discrepancies among the 3D-printed mannequins in each step were within 1%, demonstrating the applicability and reliability of the 3D technologies proposed for mass customization.

Originality/value

The proposed methodology demonstrates the value of using 3D-scanning data to manufacture fitting-mannequins via mass customization. The study demonstrates the possibility and practicality of using 3D techniques to produce commercially viable fitting mannequins for the fashion industry.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 March 2018

PengPeng Hu, Duan Li, Ge Wu, Taku Komura, Dongliang Zhang and Yueqi Zhong

Currently, a common method of reconstructing mannequin is based on the body measurements or body features, which only preserve the body size lacking of the accurate body geometric…

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Abstract

Purpose

Currently, a common method of reconstructing mannequin is based on the body measurements or body features, which only preserve the body size lacking of the accurate body geometric shape information. However, the same human body measurement does not equal to the same body shape. This may result in an unfit garment for the target human body. The purpose of this paper is to propose a novel scanning-based pipeline to reconstruct the personalized mannequin, which preserves both body size and body shape information.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors first capture the body of a subject via 3D scanning, and a statistical body model is fit to the scanned data. This results in a skinned articulated model of the subject. The scanned body is then adjusted to be pose-symmetric via linear blending skinning. The mannequin part is then extracted. Finally, a slice-based method is proposed to generate a shape-symmetric 3D mannequin.

Findings

A personalized 3D mannequin can be reconstructed from the scanned body. Compared to conventional methods, the method can preserve both the size and shape of the original scanned body. The reconstructed mannequin can be imported directly into the apparel CAD software. The proposed method provides a step for digitizing the apparel manufacturing.

Originality/value

Compared to the conventional methods, the main advantage of the authors’ system is that the authors can preserve both size and geometry of the original scanned body. The main contributions of this paper are as follows: decompose the process of the mannequin reconstruction into pose symmetry and shape symmetry; propose a novel scanning-based pipeline to reconstruct a 3D personalized mannequin; and present a slice-based method for the symmetrization of the 3D mesh.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 October 2009

Jiyun Li and Jiaxun Chen

The fast and easy generation of personalized mannequin is the premise for the accurate 3D measurement for the customers in an electronic made to measure (e_MTM) system. The…

Abstract

Purpose

The fast and easy generation of personalized mannequin is the premise for the accurate 3D measurement for the customers in an electronic made to measure (e_MTM) system. The purpose of this paper is to attempt to propose a new virtual human mannequin modeling technique to meet this requirement.

Design/methodology/approach

The customized human mannequin is constructed by assemblage of the body parts. The body parts including bust, waist and hip segments are achieved by modification of the standard body section templates, while the silhouette obtained from the front and side photos are used to confine the distortion of the parts.

Findings

The main findings are the section template base and assemblage method for mannequin modeling.

Originality/value

The proposed method can free the burden of high cost and inconvenience of 3D scanner in the measurement process of e_MTM system, and in the mean time without loss of measurement accuracy.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 21 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 26 July 2013

Xuyuan Tao and Pascal Bruniaux

The study in this article aims to focus on a novel design concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the CAD…

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Abstract

Purpose

The study in this article aims to focus on a novel design concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the CAD softwares in order to directly conceive the virtual clothing on a mannequin morphotype in cyberspace in consideration of the ease allowance between the body shape and the garment.

Design/methodology/approach

The method of acquisition of 3D human body was explained at first. Then the process of creation of garment 3D model associated with the draping technique was presented. The superposition of patterns from the 3D modeling and the traditional method used in industries was done in order to visualize the right results. At last, the dynamic validation of the garment was carried out in order to analyze the fitting results of try‐on simulation.

Findings

The 3D modeling technique method based on the draping technique shows that the garment fits perfectly to the body shape of the wearer.

Social implications

For the ready‐to‐wear manufacture, this method can be also involved on the parametric mannequin in order to reduce the lifetime of development by eliminating the process of pattern grading in the future.

Originality/value

The originality of this article comes from the combination of the traditional draping technique with the advanced CAD softwares in consideration of the fitting and draping of the garment. This concept is used not only in the context of mass customized product but also in mass production for the ready‐to‐wear apparel industries. The patterns are directly adjusted in 3D and can immediately be tried on in 3D simulation. As a result, the process in 2D patternmaking design can be eliminated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 25 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 February 2021

Chen Bao, Yongwei Miao, Bingfei Gu, Kaixuan Liu and Zhen Liu

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and interaction to design 3D garments and 2D patterns. The proposed scheme has the potential to satisfy the individual needs of fashion industry, such as precise fit evaluation of the garment, interactive style editing with ease allowance and constrained contour lines in fashion design.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors first construct a parametric pattern-making model for flat pattern design corresponding to the body dimensions. Then, the designing 2D patterns are stitched on a virtual 3D mannequin by performing a virtual try-on. If the customer is unsatisfied after the virtual try-on, the adjustable parameters (appearance parameters and fit parameters) can be adjusted using the 2D–3D linkage editing with hierarchical constrained contour lines, and the fit evaluation tool interactively provides the feedback.

Findings

The authors observed that the usability and efficiency of the existing garment pattern-making method simplifies the garment pattern-making process. The authors utilize an interactive garment parametric flat pattern-making model to generate an individualized garment flat pattern that effectively adjust and realize the local editing of the garment pattern-making. The 2D–3D linkage editing is then employed, which alters the size and shape of garment pattern for a precise human model fit of the 3D garment using hierarchical constrained contour lines. Various instances have validated the effectiveness of the proposed scheme, which can increase the reusability of the existing garment styles and improve the efficiency of fashion design.

Research limitations/implications

First, the authors do not consider the garment pattern-making design of sophisticated styles. Second, the authors do not directly consider complex garment shapes such as wrinkles, folds, multi-layer models and fabric physical properties.

Originality/value

The authors propose a pattern adjustment scheme that uses the 3D virtual try-on technology to avoid repetitions of reality-based fit tests and garment sample making in the designing process of clothing products. The proposed scheme provides interactive selections of garment patterns and sizes and renders modification tools for 3D garment designing and 2D garment pattern-making. The authors present the 2D–3D interactive linkage editing scheme for a custom-fit garment pattern based on the hierarchical constraint contour lines. The spatial relationship among the human body, pattern pieces and 3D garment model is adequately expressed, and the final design result of the garment pattern is obtained by constraint solving. Meanwhile, the tightness tension of different parts of the 3D garment is analyzed, and the fit and comfort of the garment are quantitatively evaluated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 2006

Ph. Guerlain and B. Durand

The paper aims to present several methods that were developed, evaluated and finally used as part of a 3D electronic tailor especially adapted to the clothing industry.

1946

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to present several methods that were developed, evaluated and finally used as part of a 3D electronic tailor especially adapted to the clothing industry.

Design/methodology/approach

An experimental top down approach taking care of building a system adapted to the constraints of the textile industry was used. The research was to the rapidity, the robustness and the comfort of the future system during the development cycle.

Findings

A robust and efficient method for digitizing a human body in 3D that is usable for the measurement process with duration and accuracy adapted to the domain of textile industry.

Research limitations/implications

The research is bound to many constraints. Some are expressed by the customers of the electronic tailor, some depend on the manufacturing process of the clothes and of course, some depend on economic requirements. Of course, the system is not fixed because it must be adapted and improved to be able to follow the evolution of the manufacturing process.

Practical implications

This research permitted the creation of a marketed product improved for a few years by successfully measuring thousands of people.

Originality/value

The paper demonstrates the usefulness of choosing a digitizing process. It shows the importance of keeping in mind the whole digitizing process for making the mesh generation and the measurements taken. The resulting mannequin proves that the process works well.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 18 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 June 2019

Agnė Lagė and Kristina Ancutienė

The purpose of this paper is to investigate basic block pattern modification according to fabric used and the mismatch between 2D and 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate basic block pattern modification according to fabric used and the mismatch between 2D and 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths when ease allowance is changed uniformly.

Design/methodology/approach

For the investigation, virtual try-on software Modaris 3D Fit (CAD Lectra) was used. The straight shape dress fitting was done using seven cotton and cotton blended plain weave fabrics. After virtual try-on, the mismatch d (dbust, dwaist, dhip) between 2D and 3D measure lines was measured in order to determine base pattern adjustments using different fabrics.

Findings

It was found that the position and length of 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths does not match the position and length of corresponding lines in 2D base patterns after virtual try-on due to fabrics deformation, which is related to mechanical properties. It was proved that derived linear equations presenting a relation between mismatch and ease allowance values could be used for basic block pattern modification that 3D and 2D measure lines would coincide during clothing try-on.

Research limitations/implications

This research is limited to cotton/cotton blended woven fabrics and straight dress; therefore, other fabric types and other clothing could be investigated in the future to expand data basis.

Practical implications

The main practical point of the proposed method is that in order to obtain particular 3D ease value in a garment, it can be calculated from 2D ease allowance value and the fabric’s tensile properties using linear equations. The basic block patterns could be modified using this method not only for tested fabrics but also for other fabrics with similar composition, structural and mechanical properties. 3D ease values in garment can be easily checked by using virtual try-on technology without production of real prototypes. The method is applicable for making ready-to-wear or individually tailored clothing.

Originality/value

The proposed method in this paper presented opportunity to modify the basic block patterns of the dress according to the fabric’s tensile properties and 2D ease allowance. The basic block patterns could be modified according to presented linear functions for each tested fabric. The application of this method can fully ensure the interaction between the garment 2D patterns to 3D garment so that a desired 3D garment fitting effect to the body can easily be satisfied by the adjustment of particular fabric characteristics. It offers further possibilities, especially with developing virtual try-on technologies.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 22 February 2013

Jing‐Jing Fang and Chia‐Hsin Tien

The purpose of this paper is to introduce an approach to generating a basic bodice based on human body structure. The trimmed non‐uniform rational B‐spline (NURBS) method is…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to introduce an approach to generating a basic bodice based on human body structure. The trimmed non‐uniform rational B‐spline (NURBS) method is applied to develop computer‐aided tailoring and styling capabilities in 3D fashion design.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on the body structure of the scanned subject, a parameterized method to intuitively generate adaptable bodices is proposed. NURBS surfaces are applied to provide an interactive styling design based on the preset bodice. To mimic dress shearing for any specific requirement, trimmed curves are applied to the NURBS‐based clothes. A simple periodic function is introduced to develop a wave‐like style garment.

Findings

Newly‐styled apparel designed in the third dimension is much more intuitive than conceptual drawings on paper. In order to create wearable garments using the computer‐aided apparel design tools, the expertise of pattern makers is necessary.

Originality/value

Interactive free form surface creation and its associated techniques, by means of trimmed NURBS, are applied to computer‐assisted garment design in three dimensions. The technique provides the designers with a more freely expressive means of creativity.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 25 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1998

C.H.M. Hardaker and G.J.W. Fozzard

States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although…

1504

Abstract

States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although the use of such technology is commonplace in many industries, the problems associated with the development of a suitable system for garment design have yet to be fully resolved. Envisages that such a system would provide the tools to develop a 3D simulation of a prototype garment which can be viewed from any angle prior to making a physical sample. This combined with the facility to develop the corresponding 2D pattern shapes and evaluate the fit of the virtual garment make the prospect of such a system extremely enticing. Considers the need for 3D working methods in garment design and the research issues involved in the development of a 3D computer aided design (CAD) system for garment design. The potential features of such a system are introduced in the context of a hypothetical system. Discusses the approach of a number of researchers in the field and considers future developments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 10 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 June 2017

Bingfei Gu, Pinying Gu and Guolian Liu

The purpose of this paper is to focus on how to automatically generate the individualized patterns for women’s suits based on the 3D body point-cloud images.

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Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to focus on how to automatically generate the individualized patterns for women’s suits based on the 3D body point-cloud images.

Design/methodology/approach

With the software Imageware, the point-cloud data of the female body were measured according to the female body feature to obtain the heights, widths, depths and girths at various landmarks. Then the relationship between the height of each landmark and the body height was analyzed to build the height calculation rules by software SPSS, and the prediction models of body girths were established from the body widths and depths using regression analysis for pattern generation.

Findings

The pattern generation rules were built with the relationships between a human body and the garment patterns using the graphic flattening method. Based on the above rules, the final patterns were drafted automatically by using these dimensions to fit the subjects. The try-on experiment also showed that the individualized suits could fit the subjects’ body well at some feature landmarks.

Originality/value

In order to realize tailor-made and meet the consumers’ demands for individualized clothes, the development of garment CAD system has become inevitable in the garment industry. This paper could provide the foundation for automatic pattern generation, and technical support for tailor-made.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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