Search results

1 – 10 of over 2000
Article
Publication date: 25 January 2008

Hein Daanen and Sung‐Ae Hong

New techniques are required to link 3D whole body scans to manufacturing techniques to allow for the mass‐customization of clothes. This study aims to compare two methods of…

2106

Abstract

Purpose

New techniques are required to link 3D whole body scans to manufacturing techniques to allow for the mass‐customization of clothes. This study aims to compare two methods of producing skirts based on 3D whole body scans.

Design/methodology/approach

Three females participated in the study. They were scanned with an accurate 3D whole body scanner. A set of relevant 1D measures was automatically derived from the 3D scan. The measures were incorporated in a skirt pattern and the skirt was made from jeans material. The second method was based on triangulation of the scanned waist‐to‐hip part. The points in the 3D scan were first converted to triangles and these triangles were thereafter merged with neighboring triangles of similar orientation until about 40 triangles remained. These triangles were sewn together to form a “patchwork”‐skirt. All females performed fit tests afterwards.

Findings

The fit of the 3D‐generated patchwork skirt was much better than the fit of the skirt generated by the 1D scan‐derived measures. In the latter case, two of the three skirts were too wide because the scan‐derived hip circumference exceeded the manually derived values. For the 3D generated skirt, it was necessary to enlarge the triangles with a factor of 1.025 to achieve optimal fit.

Originality/value

As far as is known, this is the first study that reports a direct conversion of a 3D scan to clothing without interference of clothing patterns. The study shows that it is possible to generate a fitting patchwork skirt based on 3D scans; the intermediate step of using 1D measures derived from 3D scans is shown to be error‐prone.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 October 2019

Ivana Špelic

In order to present a significant usage of the computer-aided design (CAD)/computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) systems in the apparel and textile industry, the current literature…

Abstract

Purpose

In order to present a significant usage of the computer-aided design (CAD)/computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) systems in the apparel and textile industry, the current literature has been observed. Although the CAD/CAM systems have also been increasingly applied to all fields apparel and textile manufacturing for the last few decades, improving the precision, productivity and the organization of the information flow, they have not been fully utilized in these industrial fields. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper is structured in three main sections showing the vast applicability of the CAD/CAM systems, the benefits provided by them and the future trend in their development.

Findings

Although the initial development of the CAD/CAM systems strived to completely eliminate manual and time-consuming operations, they have not been accepted in practice due to their inflexibility at making changes and the time needed for regenerating a complex parametric model. The textile and apparel industries show slow progress in acquiring the CAD/CAM systems.

Originality/value

This CAD/CAM technology enabled the customization in the design process according to individual needs and directed the textile and the apparel industry to moving into new directions such as the mass customization to personalization. The paper makes clear that although this technological concept is rather old, the use of the CAD/CAM systems will inevitably broaden in terms of applicability to new production stages.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 March 2018

PengPeng Hu, Duan Li, Ge Wu, Taku Komura, Dongliang Zhang and Yueqi Zhong

Currently, a common method of reconstructing mannequin is based on the body measurements or body features, which only preserve the body size lacking of the accurate body geometric…

768

Abstract

Purpose

Currently, a common method of reconstructing mannequin is based on the body measurements or body features, which only preserve the body size lacking of the accurate body geometric shape information. However, the same human body measurement does not equal to the same body shape. This may result in an unfit garment for the target human body. The purpose of this paper is to propose a novel scanning-based pipeline to reconstruct the personalized mannequin, which preserves both body size and body shape information.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors first capture the body of a subject via 3D scanning, and a statistical body model is fit to the scanned data. This results in a skinned articulated model of the subject. The scanned body is then adjusted to be pose-symmetric via linear blending skinning. The mannequin part is then extracted. Finally, a slice-based method is proposed to generate a shape-symmetric 3D mannequin.

Findings

A personalized 3D mannequin can be reconstructed from the scanned body. Compared to conventional methods, the method can preserve both the size and shape of the original scanned body. The reconstructed mannequin can be imported directly into the apparel CAD software. The proposed method provides a step for digitizing the apparel manufacturing.

Originality/value

Compared to the conventional methods, the main advantage of the authors’ system is that the authors can preserve both size and geometry of the original scanned body. The main contributions of this paper are as follows: decompose the process of the mannequin reconstruction into pose symmetry and shape symmetry; propose a novel scanning-based pipeline to reconstruct a 3D personalized mannequin; and present a slice-based method for the symmetrization of the 3D mesh.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 June 2001

Cynthia L. Istook and Su‐Jeong Hwang

The ability to customise garments for fit is directly tied to the availability of a comprehensive, accurate set of measurements. To obtain accurate physical measurements, a basic…

4505

Abstract

The ability to customise garments for fit is directly tied to the availability of a comprehensive, accurate set of measurements. To obtain accurate physical measurements, a basic knowledge and set of skills are required that are not often found in the average salesperson at a retail clothing outlet. The development of three‐dimensional body‐scanning technologies may have significant potential for use in the apparel industry, particularly for customisation or mass customisation strategies to be employed. The purpose of this study was to review all the 3D body scanning systems currently available and to determine the underlying principles that allow these systems to work. Specifications of each system were compared in order to provide some direction for further research into the integration of these systems with current apparel CAD pattern design or pattern generation technologies.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 5 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 30 November 2017

Arzu Vuruskan and Susan P. Ashdown

The design and testing of clothing for activewear requires complex assessments of the suitability of the clothing when the body is in motion. The purpose of this paper is to…

Abstract

Purpose

The design and testing of clothing for activewear requires complex assessments of the suitability of the clothing when the body is in motion. The purpose of this paper is to investigate full body 3D scanning of active body poses in order to develop “watertight” digital models and half-scale dress forms to facilitate design, pattern making and fit analyses. Issues around creating a size set of scans in order to facilitate fit testing of activewear across a size range were also explored.

Design/methodology/approach

Researchers experimented to discover effective methods for 3D body capture in the cycling position and reconstruction of the body in a reliable way. In total, 25 cyclists were scanned and size representatives were selected from these participants. Methods of creating half-scale forms were developed that make optimum use of modern materials and technologies. Half-scale dress forms were created in two active positions in a range of sizes for fit testing and design. A set of half-scale and full-scale bike shorts in two styles were manufactured and fit tested on the half-scale forms compared to fit testing on the scan participants to test validity of this method of assessing fit.

Findings

Issues in capturing and reconstructing areas occluded in the scanning process, and reconstructing the interface with the bicycle seat were addressed. Active digital forms were developed across the size range, from which both digital avatars and physical mannequins were developed for pattern development and fit testing. The production and use of precisely half-scaled tools for garment testing was achieved and validated by comparing fit test results in active positions on the half-scale forms and on participants who were scanned to create these forms.

Originality/value

Design modifications for active positions to date are based on linear measurements alone, which do not define the 3D body adequately. Despite much research using body scanners, only limited data exist on the body in active poses, and the concept of creating half-scale forms by scanning fit models throughout the size range in active body positions is a novel concept. The progress made in resolving material and process experiments in creating the actual half-scale forms, and testing their suitability for fit testing provides a basis for further research aimed at developing similar dress forms for other activewear garments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 March 2021

Seolyoung Oh and Dongae Suh

This paper presents a method to fabricate a fitting-mannequin using 3D-scanning, modeling and printing technologies.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper presents a method to fabricate a fitting-mannequin using 3D-scanning, modeling and printing technologies.

Design/methodology/approach

Scan data were obtained from 12 subjects with body size in the average range, selected from 208 women aged 20–29. The 3D-scan data were modified by selecting cross-sections from the cloud data, symmetrizing body shapes and obtaining mean points of body shapes. Fifteen spline curves, generated by connecting the mean points on the X–Y plane, were used as sketches and loft features to create the 3D mannequin models. A lower-body fitting mannequin was printed with polylactic acid plastic using a fused deposition-modeling 3D printer.

Findings

The cross-section circumference discrepancies among the 3D-printed mannequins in each step were within 1%, demonstrating the applicability and reliability of the 3D technologies proposed for mass customization.

Originality/value

The proposed methodology demonstrates the value of using 3D-scanning data to manufacture fitting-mannequins via mass customization. The study demonstrates the possibility and practicality of using 3D techniques to produce commercially viable fitting mannequins for the fashion industry.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 April 2024

Youngsook Kim and Fatma Baytar

The research evaluated the feasibility of 3D dynamic fit utilizing female compression tops by comparatively analyzing the virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Abstract

Purpose

The research evaluated the feasibility of 3D dynamic fit utilizing female compression tops by comparatively analyzing the virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Design/methodology/approach

Six female participants were 3D body-scanned and photographed in compression tops in four types of athletic movements (pull-up, kettlebell swing, circle-crunch and sit-up). Fit measurements, waist cross-sectional areas, waist width, waist depth, numerical simulation of clothing pressure (kPa) and objective pressure measurements (kPa) were collected from 3D virtual animation, 3D fit scan data and actual photos with the four types of athletic motions. The data were comparatively investigated between virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Findings

The 3D-animated body was not reflected with human body deformation because only bone structure was changed while maintaining the constant forms of muscle and body surface in athletic movements. Due to this consistency of virtual dynamic fit, there were significant differences with the actual dynamic fit at the top length, shoulder width and waist cross-sectional areas. Also, the virtual dynamic pressure indicated significantly higher levels than the objective dynamic pressure while presenting no significant correlations at the front neckline, breast, lateral waist, upper back, back armhole and back waist.

Originality/value

This study is the first to verify multiple aspects of virtual dynamic fit using 3D digital technology. This study provided useful information about which aspects of the current virtual animation need to be improved to apply in the dynamic fit evaluation.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 February 2023

Hyunsook Han

This research aimed to develop an automatic 3D body measurement line generation method that reduces errors induced by diverse body shapes and incomplete scan areas.

Abstract

Purpose

This research aimed to develop an automatic 3D body measurement line generation method that reduces errors induced by diverse body shapes and incomplete scan areas.

Design/methodology/approach

Three-dimensional body scan data from the 5th Size Korea database were used. Measurement extraction methods were developed for each measurement; chest girth, underbust girth, armscye girth and neck base girth.

Findings

The research showed that the method adopted in this study enhanced the accuracy of the scan measurements for various body shapes and incomplete scan data. The authors verified the accuracy of the developed methods for various body shapes by comparing the scan measurement against manual measurement.

Originality/value

The automatic 3D body measurement line generation algorithms developed for various human body shapes will improve the reliability and accuracy of 3D body scan measurement program. Also. it will be of practical use in human-size-related production processes.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 March 2020

Katherine Celia Greder, Jie Pei and Jooyoung Shin

The purpose of this study was to create a corset—understructure as well as fabric covering—using only computational, 3D approaches to fashion design. The process incorporated 3D…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study was to create a corset—understructure as well as fabric covering—using only computational, 3D approaches to fashion design. The process incorporated 3D body scan data, parametric methods for the 3D-printed design, and algorithmic methods for the automated, custom-fit fabric pattern.

Design/methodology/approach

The methods or protocol-based framework that nucleated this design project (see Figure 1) enabled more concentrated research into the iterative step-by-step procedure and the computational techniques used herein.

Findings

The 3D computational methods in this study demonstrated a new way of rendering the body-to-pattern relationship through the use of multiple software platforms. Using body scan data and computer coding, the computational construction methods in this study showed a pliant and sustainable method of clothing design where designers were able to manipulate the X, Y, and Z coordinates of the points on the scan surface.

Research limitations/implications

A study of algorithmic methods is inherently a study of limitation. The iterative process of design was defined and refined through the particularity of an algorithm, which required thoughtful manipulation to inform the outcome of this research.

Practical implications

This study sought to illustrate the use and limitations of algorithm-driven computer programming to advance creative design practices.

Social implications

As body scan data and biometric information become increasingly common components of computational fashion design practices, the need for more research on the use of these techniques is pressing. Moreover, computational techniques serve as a catalyst for discussions about the use of biometric information in design and data modeling.

Originality/value

The process of designing in 3D allowed for the dynamic capability to manipulate proportion and form using parametric design techniques.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 December 2017

Lu Lu, Kit-Lun Yick, Sun Pui Ng, Joanne Yip and Chi Yung Tse

The purpose of this paper is to quantitatively assess the three-dimensional (3D) geometry and symmetry of the torso for spinal deformity and the use of orthotic bracewear by using…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to quantitatively assess the three-dimensional (3D) geometry and symmetry of the torso for spinal deformity and the use of orthotic bracewear by using non-invasive 3D body scanning technology.

Design/methodology/approach

In pursuing greater accuracy of body anthropometric measurements to improve the fit and design of apparel, 3D body scanning technology and image analysis provide many more advantages over the traditional manual methods that use contact measurements. To measure the changes in the torso geometry and profile symmetry of patients with adolescent idiopathic scoliosis, five individuals are recruited to undergo body scanning both with and without wearing a rigid brace during a period of six months. The cross-sectional areas and profiles of the reconstructed 3D torso models are examined to evaluate the level of body symmetry.

Findings

Significant changes in the cross-sectional profile are found amongst four of the patients over the different visits for measurements (p < 0.05), which are consistent with the X-rays results. The 3D body scanning system can reliably evaluate changes in the body geometry of patients with scoliosis. Nevertheless, improvements in the symmetry of the torso are found to be somewhat inconsistent among the patients and across different visits.

Originality/value

This pilot study demonstrates a practical and safe means to measure and analyse the torso geometry and symmetry so as to allow for more frequent evaluations, which would result in effective and optimal treatment of spinal deformation.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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