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The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and interaction to design 3D garments and 2D patterns. The proposed scheme has the potential to satisfy the individual needs of fashion industry, such as precise fit evaluation of the garment, interactive style editing with ease allowance and constrained contour lines in fashion design.

The authors first construct a parametric pattern-making model for flat pattern design corresponding to the body dimensions. Then, the designing 2D patterns are stitched on a virtual 3D mannequin by performing a virtual try-on. If the customer is unsatisfied after the virtual try-on, the adjustable parameters (appearance parameters and fit parameters) can be adjusted using the 2D–3D linkage editing with hierarchical constrained contour lines, and the fit evaluation tool interactively provides the feedback.

The authors observed that the usability and efficiency of the existing garment pattern-making method simplifies the garment pattern-making process. The authors utilize an interactive garment parametric flat pattern-making model to generate an individualized garment flat pattern that effectively adjust and realize the local editing of the garment pattern-making. The 2D–3D linkage editing is then employed, which alters the size and shape of garment pattern for a precise human model fit of the 3D garment using hierarchical constrained contour lines. Various instances have validated the effectiveness of the proposed scheme, which can increase the reusability of the existing garment styles and improve the efficiency of fashion design.

First, the authors do not consider the garment pattern-making design of sophisticated styles. Second, the authors do not directly consider complex garment shapes such as wrinkles, folds, multi-layer models and fabric physical properties.

The authors propose a pattern adjustment scheme that uses the 3D virtual try-on technology to avoid repetitions of reality-based fit tests and garment sample making in the designing process of clothing products. The proposed scheme provides interactive selections of garment patterns and sizes and renders modification tools for 3D garment designing and 2D garment pattern-making. The authors present the 2D–3D interactive linkage editing scheme for a custom-fit garment pattern based on the hierarchical constraint contour lines. The spatial relationship among the human body, pattern pieces and 3D garment model is adequately expressed, and the final design result of the garment pattern is obtained by constraint solving. Meanwhile, the tightness tension of different parts of the 3D garment is analyzed, and the fit and comfort of the garment are quantitatively evaluated.

To establish a method of transforming the 3D cutting patterns constructed and modelled into 2D patterns, excluding the fabric parameters.

Three methods have been developed for transforming 3D cutting part segments into 2D segments. They are based on the computer‐based application of the mathematical models developed. The mathematical models differ in their concepts and the application in a particular manner of transforming the 3D segments. Complex spatial matrix transformations have also been developed and used to further transform the 2D segments into the plane of chained 2D cutting pattern segments.

Two‐dimensional cutting patterns have been defined for the 3D garment model, initially constructed on a computer‐generated body model.

The method has been developed on an example of a 3D garment basic cut construction of a single article of clothing. However, the same principles can be applied and developed for any garment basic cut.

The mathematical models developed can be used in a new computer‐based application for the 3D garment construction and the development of the 2D cutting patterns, matched to individual physical characteristics.

The most outstanding property of the method developed is the possibility of gradual transformation of 3D cuts into 2D ones, with no need to define physical‐mechanical properties of the fabric used and no need to introduce fabric drape. The newly created 2D cutting patterns are of outstanding quality and preciseness.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate basic block pattern modification according to fabric used and the mismatch between 2D and 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths when ease allowance is changed uniformly.

For the investigation, virtual try-on software Modaris 3D Fit (CAD Lectra) was used. The straight shape dress fitting was done using seven cotton and cotton blended plain weave fabrics. After virtual try-on, the mismatch d (d_bust, d_waist, d_hip) between 2D and 3D measure lines was measured in order to determine base pattern adjustments using different fabrics.

It was found that the position and length of 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths does not match the position and length of corresponding lines in 2D base patterns after virtual try-on due to fabrics deformation, which is related to mechanical properties. It was proved that derived linear equations presenting a relation between mismatch and ease allowance values could be used for basic block pattern modification that 3D and 2D measure lines would coincide during clothing try-on.

This research is limited to cotton/cotton blended woven fabrics and straight dress; therefore, other fabric types and other clothing could be investigated in the future to expand data basis.

The main practical point of the proposed method is that in order to obtain particular 3D ease value in a garment, it can be calculated from 2D ease allowance value and the fabric’s tensile properties using linear equations. The basic block patterns could be modified using this method not only for tested fabrics but also for other fabrics with similar composition, structural and mechanical properties. 3D ease values in garment can be easily checked by using virtual try-on technology without production of real prototypes. The method is applicable for making ready-to-wear or individually tailored clothing.

The proposed method in this paper presented opportunity to modify the basic block patterns of the dress according to the fabric’s tensile properties and 2D ease allowance. The basic block patterns could be modified according to presented linear functions for each tested fabric. The application of this method can fully ensure the interaction between the garment 2D patterns to 3D garment so that a desired 3D garment fitting effect to the body can easily be satisfied by the adjustment of particular fabric characteristics. It offers further possibilities, especially with developing virtual try-on technologies.

The virtual display of 3D garment is one of the most important features in a computer-aided garment design system. The purpose of this paper is to present a novel web-based 3D virtual display framework for the online design of warp-knitted seamless garment using the latest WebGL and HTML5 technologies.

Based on the feature-based parametric 3D human body model, the 3D model of skin-tight warp-knitted seamless garment is established using the geometric modeling method. By applying plane parameterization technology, the 3D garment model is then projected into corresponding 2D prototype pattern and a texture-mapping relationship is obtained. Finally, an online 3D virtual display application framework for warp-knitted seamless garment is implemented on modern WebGL-enabled web browsers using the latest WebGL and HTML5 technologies, which allow garment designers to globally access without installing any additional software or plugin.

Based on the 2D/3D model of warp-knitted seamless garment, an online 3D virtual display application running on modern WebGL-enabled web browser is implemented using the latest Javascript, WebGL and HTML5 technologies, which is proven to be an effective way for building the web-based 3D garment CAD systems.

This paper provides a parametric design method for warp-knitted seamless garment 2D/3D model, and web-based online virtual display of 3D warp-knitted seamless garment is implemented for the first time, which establishes the foundation for the web-based online computer-aided warp-knitted seamless garment design system.

The seams of slim fit outdoor pants can be uncomfortable or even restrict body movement. To reduce discomfort, the authors need to determine optimal cutting lines in various designs that do not interfere with body movement. The purpose of this paper is to apply skin deformation mapping during movement to the ergonomic design of outdoor pants, focusing in particular on the 2D pattern generation of the crotch area in a 3D shape during movement.

A 3D shape and skin length deformation of the lower body were observed, including the crotch area, which is difficult to examine on the human body. To design ergonomic and streamlined outdoor pants, the authors selected seam lines where the changes in skin deformation are at their minimum based on the skin deformation mapping. In addition, the inseam along the medial thigh close to the crotch was removed to adjust the skin length of these areas, thereby increasing the extensible area of fabric necessary to adjust to a skin deformation. After selecting the seam lines, each of the 3D pattern blocks was generated by means of a 2D flattening method. In addition, the stress distribution of overlapped replica blocks along the crotch line during the 2D flattening process is a main independent factor to avoid deteriorating lower body movement as well as a good appearance.

Based on the results of skin deformation mapping of a human subject, this study suggested that it is best that the design line crosses where there is no skin deformation possible. And the pants were developed without the inner seam line at the upper medial thigh because of skin deformation of a large range of ±6 percent in the upper medial thigh during a 90° knee flexion or in the squatting down position. In a wear test, the developed 3D pattern without an inseam was rated higher than that with an inseam. This verified that removing the inseam, to prevent skin deformation of the medial upper thigh during knee flexion and squatting, is a logical decision. Regarding the correction of the overlapping area during arrangement of the replica, the appearance of the front of the pants was improved when 80 percent of the overlapping area was distributed near the point of the error source, which is the front of the male’s crotch line.

In this study, the crotch area, which has been difficult to observe in previous studies, were observed thoroughly and it was found that the length of the crotch curve did not increase during movement. In addition, skin deformation was mapped during a 90° knee flexion or in the squatting down position. It is expected that the overall process of developing 3D streamlined outdoor pants from 3D skin deformation mapping can be expanded to the development of patterns for other customized functional pants.

The designing and initial alignments of 2D garment patterns in 3D space are the key procedures in 3D apparel design. This paper presents a new methodology to prepare and edit initial pattern shape in 3D space by simulating virtual cloth scissoring.

In conventional apparel CAD tools, flat 2D patterns are drawn and sewn in 3D space. Thus, the final appearance of 3D garment cannot be easily predictable for non‐specialized personnel from the flat patterns. This paper adopts the real pattern designing method of “draping”, incorporating it into computer‐based designing so that the user can realistically cut, sew and add the cloth by only using a mouse. 2D and 3D meshes are edited simultaneously and thus a flattening process is not needed.

Several mesh‐based operations such as cutting, sewing, adding, and fixing are devised and have been successfully applied to virtual garment cutting.

Our new pattern drawing method has an advantage that designer can look and feel the garment appearance interactively during the design process. Virtual cutting is identical to the real pattern draping technique and is easy to adopt for designers.

With current computer hardware speed and through using the drape simulation technique, it was possible to drape and cut cloth in real‐time. In addition, both the 3D pattern and 2D flat pattern could be simultaneously acquired.

The paper seeks to evaluate and present the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of garment fit.

This study focuses on the use of 3D technology in the testing of garment fit. It examines the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of fit and presents primary data from experiments on the provision and testing of garment fit of specified size patterns for a jacket and skirt. Findings on virtual and human fit trials and an evaluation of the 3D technology are presented.

The study found that 3D software for fit provision and testing is still in its infancy, although advancements are currently being made in this area. It establishes that while fit can be virtually tested with 3D technology, its usability is not yet fine‐tuned. It evaluates procedures and presents problematic features of the 3D software. It underscores that although some issues concerning efficient provision and testing of fit still exist, 3D technology overall provides adequate evaluation of fit.

This study highlights areas for fine tuning and provides a basis for further research. While discussing usability of one pattern technology, this paper presents a platform for comparative evaluation of other technology.

DDLab is interactive graphics software for creating and visualizing discrete dynamical networks, and studying their behavior in terms of both space‐time patterns and basins of attraction. The networks can range from cellular automata to random Boolean networks. This article provides some general background, and gives the flavor of DDLab with a range of examples. Further details can be found at www.ddlab.comwww.ddlab.com

Whilst motorcycling is an activity of pleasure in most parts of the world, in India, it is a regular mode of commuting. The number of registered motorized two wheelers increased at the rate of 14.7 percent during the year 2016-2017 to reach the figure of 20.19m in 2018. But, with this increase, the number of motorcycle road accidents is also increasing. Uncomfortable riding clothing is one of the major factors for motorcycle rider’s muscular fatigue, which might at times lead to serious accidents. No kinematic human models have been, so far, used for the design of protective, functional and aesthetic looking products, and the result is, hence, a compromised fit that is not protective or comfortable. The purpose of this paper is to develop virtual 3D human body models for specific postures of a motorcycle rider.

Kinematic analysis of a motorcycle rider was conducted to identify typical body postures obtained by the motorcycle rider while mounting and riding a motorcycle. The identified body postures were mapped on a virtual parametric human model to obtain digital model of a motorcycle rider. 3D garment patterns for jacket and trouser were developed on all the four body postures. 3D patterns were flattened out to get 2D flat patterns that were compared and analyzed, and appropriate pattern shapes from each of the four postures were selected. Virtual fit analysis was conducted for the finally garment.

It is well established that a static 2D anthropometry fails to accurately capture the dimensions of complex 3D human form, yielding poor garment fit. Therefore, in this study, virtual, 3D human body models were developed in selected dynamic poses. Garment patterns developed in 3D have the typical movement inbuilt in them; hence, they offer more comfort and ease of motion to the wearer.

The identification of typical body postures of motorcycle rider has not been done before. The CAD models developed in the study can be used for the generation of ergonomic garment patterns for the motorcycle riders.

The purpose of this paper is to provide a theoretical model for considering ease numerically in the clothing pattern. Classifying the pattern as a geometric Cartesian coordinate system, this model proposes the need to quantify the partly coincident variables of ease, which will enable greater control over garment fit and function, using traditional or CAD/CAM methods.

The principles of pattern/garment dimensions are considered with support from analysis of literature and contributing factors to the variables of ease are categorised. These principles support a proposed theoretical model for considering pattern/garment dimensions, in the numeric format that they exist within the context of pattern construction.

Pattern construction occurs in a 2D Cartesian coordinate system, guided by body dimensions and ease. This can be modelled in the form of an algorithm relating to the placement of cardinal points defining the pattern outline. Recognition of the numerical nature of the pattern, suggests the need to quantify the coincident variables of ease, to achieve greater control over garment fit and function.

Few sources exist enabling the recognition of ease requirements in the pattern/garment and when guidance on ease is presented, there is little rationale as to how it has been established, or what contributes to its definition.

The paper shows how current methods of pattern construction can be modelled more effectively, recognising the geometric nature on which they are based. Modelling these relationships highlights where quantification can be provided, by existing knowledge or future research.