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Computer reconstruction of 19th century trousers

Victor Kuzmichev (Department of Clothes Design, Ivanovo State Polytechnic University, Ivanovo, Russian Federation)
Aleksei Moskvin (Department of Clothes Design and Technology, Saint Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design, Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation)
Evgenii Surzhenko (Department of Clothes Design and Technology, Saint Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design, Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation)
Mariia Moskvina (Department of Clothes Design and Technology, Saint Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design, Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation)

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

ISSN: 0955-6222

Article publication date: 7 August 2017

Abstract

Purpose

Designing of clothes using the historical prototypes is very popular in contemporary practice. The purpose of this paper is to apply 2D and 3D computer-aided design (CAD) systems to reconstruct the historical pattern block and get the virtual image in accordance with the prototypes. New algorithm has been proved for men trousers taken from the nineteenth century.

Design/methodology/approach

Our approach is to develop a method of CAD to reconstruct historical trousers through analyzing and rebuilding of historical algorithms used to pattern blocks making, old anthropometrical database, and the pattern blocks shaping. Trousers construction, methods of trousers shaping by hands, body sizes schedule, manuals of 36 pattern cutting systems, and its sketches from nineteenth century have been analyzed. Then, by means of parameterization of historical pattern blocks, we have developed the universal trousers pattern cutting algorithm. The final step of the research has been devoted to virtual fitting technology that helps to determine the differences between historical trousers chosen as prototype and virtual image reconstructed by 3D CAD.

Findings

The authors have developed the parametrical module of 2D CAD and expanded the application of 3D CAD to re-designing of completely new object such as nineteenth century trousers pattern blocks in accordance with the historical method of shaping by hands. The conformity between the style of historical trousers and the virtual images reconstructed from two resources – pattern block and sketch silhouette – has been achieved.

Originality/value

This study demonstrated the contemporary approach to historical garments reconstruction by means of CAD. This study should help researchers of historical costume and practical specialists in apparel industry to apply historical heritage in a contemporary way.

Keywords

Citation

Kuzmichev, V., Moskvin, A., Surzhenko, E. and Moskvina, M. (2017), "Computer reconstruction of 19th century trousers", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 29 No. 4, pp. 594-606. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-12-2016-0139

Publisher

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Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2017, Emerald Publishing Limited