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Non-occlusive knitted linen for atopic dermatitis wearer

Jose Favilla (Textile and Fashion Graduate Program, EACH-USP, São Paulo, Brazil)
João Paulo Marcicano (Textile and Fashion Graduate Program, EACH-USP, São Paulo, Brazil)
Regina A. Sanches (Textile and Fashion Graduate Program, EACH-USP, São Paulo, Brazil)
Marcus Olivas Maia (Santa Casa Medical School, CRM, São Paulo, Brazil)

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

ISSN: 0955-6222

Article publication date: 5 June 2017




The purpose of this paper is to investigate the suitability of linen in garments for atopic dermatitis (AD) wearers.


In total, 60 garments were tested with four boys (five to eight years old): two with AD and two healthy kids using circular knitting occlusive structure (OS) 28-gauge and non-occlusive structure (NOS) 12-gauge with cotton, polyester staple and linen yarns. Air and water vapor permeability fabric results were analyzed using ANOVA method and occlusive levels correlated with thickness and UPF rates. Skin irritation levels were evaluated with Patient-Oriented SCORing Atopic Dermatitis (PO-SCORAD) self-assessment tool and for body temperature measurements infrared cameras were used. The authors standardized hygiene products; laundry procedures and soaps were previously identified and measured for their pH and skin irritation history with wearers.


Lower skinbody temperature (−2.6°C-−2.8°C) and PO-SCORAD values (16.1-22.8) during use by AD volunteers suggest promoting both wear tolerance (WT) and NOS preference. Air permeability of 3,222 l/m2s with NOS knitted linen as at least 48 percent higher than tested fibers indicating AD volunteers preference during hot climate (24°C to 37°C and 54 to 69 percent RH). Control healthy volunteers were less sensitive to NOS (−1.3°C-−1.6°C) and hot feeling polyester was detected in use. UPF confirms open loops of NOS (NOS UPF 10-5 vs OS UPF 25-15). Thickness (0.6 to 1.0 mm) and RET values (3.1-3.8) were both without significance for this study.

Research limitations/implications

Due to the experimental character of this study with a reduced group of two AD volunteers, wear test conclusion is limited to these specific boys. Work extension aiming at broad AD wears statistics significance should consider more volunteers.

Practical implications

The study provides specific answers to opening new possibilities for AD wear other than cotton or polyester, both fibers with more availability in the Brazilian garments retail industry that sometimes did not meet their routine needs. This study provides practical daily understanding of correlations of WT and air permeability level of NOS knitted applied to garments in direct contact with the skin in subtropical climates.

Social implications

Both academically and socially, the results can contribute to increasing information related to textile process and practical knowledge of knits to better accomplish AD clothing in subtropical climates. The practical wear test results with AD volunteers also indicate guidelines to parents who were having trouble identifying base layers, fundamental textiles and options for their kids in search of possible relief and well being mainly on hot days.


Circular knitting jersey linen study in direct contact with sensitive skin in a subtropical climate city like São Paulo is unique. The study also considered helping parents of a six-year-old AD boy in attendance to a doctor’s suggestion to find better options of clothings to be used during his daily routines.



Many thanks for the acknowledgments of assistance during this academic research study to Santaconstancia Mills (yarns, knitting and finishing process), Hard 8 (garments prototypes), Infrared Services (thermal cameras) and EACH – University of São Paulo.


Favilla, J., Marcicano, J.P., Sanches, R.A. and Maia, M.O. (2017), "Non-occlusive knitted linen for atopic dermatitis wearer", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 29 No. 3, pp. 451-467.



Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2017, Emerald Publishing Limited

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