A comparative analysis of after-stitch strength reduction in sewing threads across woven, nonwoven and composite fabric assemblies

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to investigate the factors influencing the reduction in strength of sewing threads after stitching (after-stitch strength reduction) in different fabric assemblies, including nonwoven fabrics. This research expands upon previous studies, which primarily focused on woven fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

A full-factorial experimental design was employed, considering three factors: fabric assembly type (woven, nonwoven, composite), yarn type (spun polyester, core-spun polyester) and thread count (30 Tex, 60 Tex). Also, the stitching parameters stitch density (3 spc, 5 spc) and needle count (75 Nm, 100 Nm) were considered. The predictive regression model was also developed with a second-degree order. Tensile testing was conducted on unravelled threads before and after stitching to assess strength reduction.

Findings

Fabric assembly type significantly impacted after-stitch strength reduction, with the composite assembly exhibiting the highest reduction. Yarn type played a crucial role in the composite assembly; core-spun yarn experienced higher strength reduction compared to spun polyester yarn. Thread count consistently affected strength reduction across all fabric assemblies, with finer threads experiencing higher reductions. Stitch density generally had a positive correlation with strength reduction for woven and nonwoven assemblies, but no significant difference was observed in the composite assembly. Needle count did not significantly impact strength reduction for any fabric assembly.

Practical implications

The findings can guide the selection of appropriate sewing threads, yarn types and sewing parameters for different fabric assemblies, including nonwoven fabrics, to optimize seam performance and garment durability.

Originality/value

This study contributes to the understanding of how fabric structure, yarn characteristics and sewing parameters interact to influence sewing thread strength reduction in diverse fabric assemblies, including nonwoven fabrics, which were not previously considered in similar studies. This broader investigation provides valuable insights applicable to a wider range of sewing applications.

Citation

Chavhan, M.V. (2024), "A comparative analysis of after-stitch strength reduction in sewing threads across woven, nonwoven and composite fabric assemblies", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print No. ahead-of-print. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-03-2024-0060