Citation

(2023), "Index", Ritch, E.L., Canning, C. and McColl, J. (Ed.) Pioneering New Perspectives in the Fashion Industry: Disruption, Diversity and Sustainable Innovation, Emerald Publishing Limited, Leeds, pp. 301-308. https://doi.org/10.1108/978-1-80382-345-420231025

Publisher

:

Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2023 Elaine L. Ritch, Catherine Canning and Julie McColl

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INDEX

A

Aarrekids

, 145

Activism

, 68

Activist groups

, 75

Activist movements

, 68

Advanced Clothing Solutions (ACS)

, 185

business case

, 187–188

circular business models

, 186–187

financial feasibility of fashion rental business models

, 189–190

future for

, 192–193

partnering with fashion-tech platforms

, 191

product renewal service

, 192

strategic B2B partnerships

, 190–191

UK’s largest third-party logistics provider for fashion rental and resale

, 188–189

African Development Bank (AfDB)

, 156

African fashion

, 155–156

African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA)

, 155, 158

empowerment through business creation, employment and global acceptance

, 164–165

FDIs and exports opportunities for SSA fashion economy

, 160–163

securing SSA’s fashion future through circular fashion

, 165–167

and World Bank Growth Model

, 159–160

Age construction and children’s dress code

, 145–149

All Party Parliamentary Group for Fashion and Textiles

, 108

Amancio Ortega of Inditex

, 231

Amazon Fashion

, 132

American Civil War

, 106

Apple Watch

, 216

Arm’s length approach

, 279

Artificial intelligence (AI)

, 248

ASOS

, 127

Atmospherics

, 117

Attitude–behaviour gap (ABG)

, 79, 205

environmental issues and

, 206–207

Augmented reality (AR)

, 249

Autism Hour’ scheme

, 116

Autism spectrum disorder (ASD)

, 115

in retail context

, 117–118

retail recommendations for ASD inclusive retail environments

, 124

Babygro

, 146

Balance of Trade (BOT)

, 162

Bamboo fibres

, 19

Banana Republic

, 127

BBC programmes

, 16

Behaviours

, 174

Big beautiful women (BBW)

, 109

Black Lives Matter movement (BLM movement)

, 2, 65, 94

Body image and fashion

, 108–110

Bombay Closet Cleanse

, 196

Brand

, 127

behaviour

, 241

concept

, 266

equity

, 19

extensions

, 78

personality

, 266

reasons to

, 266

Breaking Fashion

, 16

Britain’s colonial policy

, 31

British colonies

, 31

British East India Company

, 31

Bundlee

, 190

Business model

, 33, 101

Business of Fashion (2016)

, 110

Business performance

, 107

Business-to-consumer (B2C)

, 174

Buyer–supplier relationship (BSR)

, 278

current

, 278–279

current marketplace

, 278

future-proofing

, 284–286

impact on buying cycles

, 279–281

sustainability

, 281–283

Buyer–supplier–customer (BSC)

, 277

C

CaaStle

, 191

Canary Craftivists project

, 67

Capitalism and sustainability

, 31–32

Carol’s Shop and Tea Room

, 196

Center for Social Justice

, 94

Changing Markets Foundation (2021)

, 44

Childhood studies

, 140

Children’s clothes and gender construction

, 141

age construction and children’s dress code

, 145–149

contours of mixed dress codes in childhood

, 141–142

gendered fashion, design and retail

, 142–143

genderless

, 143–145

Childrenswear

, 139

background context

, 140–141

children’s clothes and gender construction

, 141–149

small couture

, 149–151

Chilean Centre for Climate Science and Resilience

, 15

Circular business models

, 56–58, 186–187

innovations

, 58

Circular customer journeys

, 283

Circular economy

, 174, 176–177

concept

, 158

engaging consumers in

, 178–181

Circular fashion

, 173, 176, 188, 195

Circular products

, 283

Circular supply chains

, 283

Clean Clothes Campaign (2021)

, 236

Climate activism

, 80

Climate activists

, 76

attitude behaviour gap

, 79

climate activists as consumers

, 82–85

collaborative fashion consumption

, 78–79

ethical fashion brand extensions & sustainable fashion brands

, 77–78

fashion industry’s impact on climate crisis

, 76–77

Greta Thunberg Effect

, 81–82

new climate activist

, 80

power of climate activist and potential for meaningful change in fashion industry

, 76

sustainable fashion

, 77

Climate Activists as Consumers

, 82–85

Climate crisis

, 83

fashion industry’s impact on

, 76–77

Climate emergency

, 68

Clothing concept

, 29

Collaborative–consumption

, 174, 178

Collaborative–fashion–consumption (CFC)

, 76, 78–79, 177

Collective action

argument for adopting systems change

, 40–42

fashion for common good

, 42–43

goals of system

, 49–50

mindset/paradigm out of system arises

, 46, 50–51

power to add, change or self-organise system structure

, 48–49

power to transcend paradigms

, 51

rules of system

, 48

structure of information flows

, 47–48

systems change

, 43–47

Community projects

, 69

Community-led nonprofit Sustainable Fashion Scotland (Community-led nonprofit SFS)

, 40, 49

Competitive advantage

, 96

Conspicuous conservation

, 179

Consumer behaviours

, 174, 235

theory

, 129

Consumer spending

, 157

Consumer-based brand equity (CBBE)

, 266

to FIBE

, 269

Consumer-to-consumer (C2C)

, 174

Consumers, climate activists as

, 82–85

Content creators

, 85

Core social motives

, 270–271

Cost leadership strategies

, 96

Cotton

, 31

Counter movements

, 76

COVID-19

pandemic

, 55, 58, 277–278

and sustainability in fashion industry

, 59

Crafters

, 67

Craftivism

, 66–70

finding meaning and creating contribution

, 69–71

motivations to engage

, 68–69

process

, 67–68

social movement theory

, 68

Craftivist Collective (social group)

, 66–67

Cross-channel retailing

, 258–259

Cultural contexts

, 2

Culture

, 1

D

Dataveillance

, 221

Date-the-Ramp

, 196

Deadstock

, 60

Debenhams

, 132

Decision-making model

, 207

Depop

, 177, 197–198

Design process

, 15

of childrenswear

, 5

Differentiation strategy

, 96

Diffusion of Innovation (2003)

, 95–97

Digital technology

, 17

Digitalisation

, 55

Dior (luxury fashion brand)

, 96

Disasters

, 59

Disposal of clothes

, 77

Disruption

, 5

Distribution

, 255–256

Diversification

, 133

Diversity

, 5, 108

and equality management systems

, 107

Diversity, Equity and Inclusion (DEI)

, 94

Do-it-yourself practices (DIY practices)

, 219

Dog Pile Thrift, The

, 196

Dolce

, 127

Dominant social paradigm (DSP)

, 4, 12–16, 175

of fashion production and consumption

, 39

Dove ‘Real Beauty’ campaign

, 2

E

E-commerce

, 245

creating compelling experiences online

, 246

fit information

, 248–249

gamification

, 250–251

information design

, 248

navigation design

, 247

personalised information

, 250

retail website design

, 246

social design

, 250

sustainability information

, 249–250

visual design

, 246–247

visual search

, 248

Earth Logic

, 57

Earth Logic Research Action Plan (2019)

, 51

eBay

, 177

fashion

, 132

Eco fashion

, 77

Eco-labels

, 236

Economic sustainability

, 218

Economics of Exclusion, The

competitive advantage

, 95–96

fashion and industry of fashion

, 96–98

fashion industry landscape

, 98–101

new models

, 101–102

Ellen McArthur Foundation

, 186–187

Empowerment through business creation, employment and global acceptance

, 164–165

Endless Wardrobe

, 190

Environmental Audit Committee (EAC)

, 230

Environmental conservation

, 31

Environmental scanning

, 188

Environmental sustainability

, 217–218

Equality

, 108

Equality, diversity and inclusivity (EDI)

, 105

and equity

, 107

body image and fashion

, 108–110

gender and fashion

, 110–111

history of uniformity, exclusivity and inequality

, 106–107

in workplace

, 107–108

race and fashion

, 111–112

Equity

, 108

EDI and

, 107

equity-based recruitment strategies

, 111

Equity, diversity and inclusion (EDI)

, 123

Ethical consumer

, 207

Ethical consumption

, 205

Ethical fashion

, 76–77

brand extensions

, 77–78

Eurocentrism

, 93

Exclusion

, 100–101

Extinction Rebellion (XR)

, 66, 75

F

Fashion

, 1–3, 27, 29–30, 48, 56, 109, 111–112, 174, 230

apparel

, 140

body image and

, 108–110

and capitalism

, 30–31

circular economy

, 174, 176–177

clothing

, 128

collaborative–consumption

, 178

commercial opportunities

, 181–182

for common good

, 42–43

communication

, 234–236

companies

, 94

consumers

, 233–234

consumption

, 129–130

design

, 2

disruption of fashion practice

, 175–176

economy

, 157–158

engaging consumers in circular economy

, 178–181

gender and

, 110–111

goal of

, 49

history

, 142–143

importance of advancing fashion sustainability agenda

, 12

and industry of fashion

, 96–98

and market-driven capitalism

, 28

marketing

, 16, 265

race and

, 111–112

realignment of value from fashion to marketing

, 16–20

redistribution markets

, 177–178

rental

, 187

resale

, 187

retail

, 245

retailers

, 249

sustainability and

, 32–33

system

, 44

week

, 58–59

Fashion brands

, 230

case studies on sustainability of

, 236–240

Fashion businesses

, 101

models

, 191

Fashion industry

, 4, 27, 34, 44, 75, 93, 101, 105

approaches

, 56

behaviours

, 100

with fashion brands

, 60

impact on climate crisis

, 76–77

landscape

, 98–101

in SSA

, 156

Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT)

, 94, 110

Fashion production

, 13, 39

and consumption

, 12–13

Fashion Revolution (FR)

, 20, 47, 81

Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act

, 48

Fashion-tech platforms, partnering with

, 191

Fashion’s Dirty Secrets

, 230

Fashionable technology

, 216

Fashionable wearables

, 216

Fast fashion (FF)

, 12–16, 58, 279

brands

, 57, 78

business models

, 42–43, 173

fads

, 15

industry

, 56

production and consumption

, 14

production of

, 11, 14

Female fashion

, 141

Financial feasibility of fashion rental business models

, 189–190

Fine Finds, The

, 196

Fit information

, 248–249

Flannels

, 257

Follower-based influencer brand equity (FIBE)

, 265, 269–270

individuals to influencer brands social identity and FIBE formation

, 270–272

societal identify influence on

, 272–274

Footwear industry

, 164

Foreign direct investment (FDI)

, 157

and exports opportunities for SSA fashion economy

, 160–163

Fra-For

, 146

Free Market

capitalism and sustainability

, 31–32

fashion, sustainability, and market capitalism

, 29–30

fashion and capitalism

, 30–31

sustainability and fashion

, 32–33

systems investigation

, 28–29

Fridays for Future (FfF)

, 75

G

Gabbana

, 127

Gamification

, 250–251

Garment care

, 77

Garment production

, 13

Gender

, 140

and fashion

, 110–111

inequality

, 107

Generation-Z

, 81, 173, 205–207, 292

as vintage and second-hand consumers

, 208–210

Google glasses

, 216

Graffiti

, 69

Grassroots movements

, 39

Greater innovation

, 102

Greta Thunberg Effect

, 81–82

Gross Domestic Product (GDP)

, 12

Growth, market potential for

, 129

Growth Matrix

, 128, 132

H

H&M

, 127, 132

High-income countries (HIC)

, 42

Hirestreet

, 190–191

Hope

, 291

Our House is on Fire

, 291–292

overconsumption

, 292–294

promise

, 294–297

Human beings

, 6

Human branding

, 267

I

IDKids

, 145

In The Style (Fast-fashion online retailer)

, 16–19

Lorna Luxe in collaboration with ‘In The Style’

, 16–19

In-store retail experience

, 117, 122

Incentives & Constraints

, 48

Inclusion

, 93, 101

within fashion industry

, 100

Inclusive education

, 143

Inclusive retailing

, 115

ASD in retail context

, 117–118

implications and future research

, 122–124

methodology

, 119

retail atmospheric variables

, 118, 120–122

retail customer experience

, 117

retail experience of parents with autistic children

, 119–120

retail servicescape and atmospherics

, 117

Inclusivity

, 108

India

, 196

Indifference investigation to sustainability in fashion industry

case study

, 58–59

COVID-19 and

, 59

defining sustainable fashion and circular business models

, 56–58

Industrial Revolution

, 31

Industry of fashion, fashion and

, 96–98

Inequality

, 68

Influencer branding

, 267–268

Influencer brands

, 265

brand concept

, 266

CBBE to FIBE

, 269

FIBE ecosystem

, 269–270

human branding

, 267

individuals to influencer brands social identity and FIBE formation

, 270–272

reasons to brand

, 266

societal identify influence on FIBE

, 272–274

understanding

, 268–269

Information design

, 248

Information flows, structure of

, 47–48

Ingroup–outgroup dynamic

, 94

Innovation

, 15

design and

, 19

Innovators

, 97, 100

Instagram

, 196–198

Intent

, 46

International Labour Organisation (ILO)

, 278

Intersectionality concept

, 109

J

Journeys in Design (series of initiatives in Scotland)

, 49

K

Kiabza

, 196

L

Legislation

, 112

Leverage points

, 45

framework

, 40

Leverage points perspective (LPP)

, 45

Love Island (reality TV programme)

, 17

Low-and middle-income countries (LMIC)

, 41

Lulu Thrift

, 196

Luxe, Lorna (social media influencer)

in collaboration with ‘In The Style’

, 16–20

Luxury fashion brand

, 96

Luxury fashion market

, 255

luxury fashion retailers’ distribution strategies

, 256–257

luxury fashion retailers’ multiple channel distribution

, 259–260

multiple channel retailing

, 257–259

LVMH (luxury fashion brand)

, 96

M

Mafia

, 150

Manufacturing process of textiles and clothing

, 28

Marimekko

, 145

Market capitalism

, 29–30

system of

, 32

Market development

, 132

Market levels

, 230

Market penetration

, 132

Market potential for growth

, 129

Market-driven capitalism

, 28

Marketing, realignment of value from fashion to

, 16–20

Mass-market brand

, 96

Mass-market fashion company

, 96

McCartney (luxury fashion brand)

, 96

Mega events

, 58

#MeToo

, 65

Midsteeple Quarter

, 49–50

Millennials

, 196, 205

Mindset/paradigm out of system arises

, 46, 50–51

Mixed dress code contours in childhood

, 141–142

Models

, 101–102

Modest fashion

, 127–128, (see also Sustainable fashion)

defining

, 128

market potential for growth

, 129

modest wear driving growth for fashion brands

, 130–133

impact of religiosity and fashion consumption

, 129–130

Modest wear driving growth for fashion brands

, 130

diversification

, 133

market development

, 132

market penetration

, 132

product development

, 132–133

in UK

, 131

Multichannel

, 260

Multiple channel distribution strategy

, 256

Multiple channel retailing

, 256–259

My Wardrobe HQ (MWHQ)

, 190

N

Natural resources

, 4

Navigation design

, 247

Netflix

, 187

Netnographic techniques

, 198

New business model innovations

, 55

New climate activist

, 80

New environmental paradigms (NEPs)

, 4, 15, 174

New fashion business models

, 95

New product development (NPD)

, 279

Nike

, 132

Non-governmental organisations

, 42

Nününü

, 145

O

Observatory of Economic Complexity (OEC)

, 162

Oil

, 4

Omni-channel retailing

, 256

Online shopping

, 245–246

Online thrifting

, 196

data analysis

, 199–202

literature review

, 196–198

methodology

, 198

#OOTD Instagram posts (Brand’s website)

, 94

Organic Basics

, 249–250

Organic cotton

, 78

Outgrouping

, 94

P

Panda Picked

, 196

Paris Agreement of 2015

, 77

Participative design

, 141

Patch work quilts

, 69

Peer-to-peer

, 180

People with disabilities (PWD)

, 115

Perfect Body’ campaign approach

, 109

Personalised information

, 250

Petit Pli

, 146

Pirate jacket

, 2

Playtime

, 145

Post-purchase behaviours

, 77

Power to transcend paradigms

, 51

Primark

, 96, 127

Product development

, 132–133

Production process

, 11, 14

in fashion factories

, 20

Purple Pound

, 115–116

Pussyhat Project, The (social group)

, 66

Q

Qualitative approach

, 198

Quantified Self (QS)

, 220–221

R

Race

and fashion

, 111–112

inequality in fashion industry

, 111

Rana Plaza factory incident

, 59

Rapid fashion (RF)

, 279

Ray’s Thriftstore

, 196

Recycled polyester

, 78

Redistribution markets

, 174, 177–178

Religion

, 128

Religiosity

, 129–130

Relove

, 196

Renoon

, 186

Representation & Inclusion in the Fashion Industry Report, The

, 108

Retail

, 128, 130

servicescape

, 117

website design

, 246

Retail atmospheric variables

, 120, 123

external variables

, 120–121

general interior variables

, 121

human variables

, 122

layout and design variables

, 121–122

point-of-purchase and decoration variables

, 122

Retail experience of parents with autistic children

, 119

affective experience

, 119–120

cognitive experience

, 119

physical experience

, 120

social experience

, 120

Retailers

, 132

internationalisation

, 260

Retro Days

, 196

Rotaro

, 190

S

Saitex

, 160

Save Your Wardrobe

, 186

Scepticism

, 78

Second-hand clothing

, 208

Second-hand fashion

, 207–208

Second-hand platforms

, 79

Self-organisation

, 48

Self-organise system structure, power to add, change or

, 48–49

Selfridges

, 257

SFS

, 49

SFS Community Call

, 50

Signing accords

, 59

Sisters in Stitches (social group)

, 66

Slave trade

, 105–106

Slavery Abolition Act, The (1833)

, 106

Slow fashion

, 76–77

Småfolk

, 145

Small couture

, 149

childrenswear market post-WW2

, 150–151

dressing child

, 149–150

Small-and medium-sized enterprises (SME)

, 42

Social design

, 250

Social groups

, 66

Social identity

, 265

Social inclusion policy

, 157–158

Social media

, 233

society

, 7

Social Media Influencers

, 83

Social mobilization

, 68

Social movements

, 65

theory

, 68, 70

Social sustainability

, 217

Soil health

, 4

Speed-to-market strategy

, 279

Spotify

, 187

Stage3

, 196

Stella (luxury fashion brand)

, 96

Stitches for Survival (social group)

, 66

Strategic B2B partnerships

, 190–191

Strategy

, 132

Sub-Saharan Africa (SSA)

, 155

AGOA

, 158–167

fashion industry in

, 156

securing SSA’s fashion future through circular fashion

, 165–167

social inclusion policy and SSA fashion economy

, 157–158

Success

, 17

Supply chain

, 283

Sustainability

, 28–30, 41, 55–56, 229, 281–283

capitalism and

, 31–32

case studies on sustainability of fashion brands

, 236–240

in fashion

, 206, 230–233

and fashion

, 32–33

fashion communication

, 234–236

fashion consumers

, 233–234

focussed business model innovation

, 34

information

, 249–250

initiatives

, 46

integration

, 60

interventions or solutions

, 45

three pillars of

, 217–218

transformations for fashion

, 44

Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)

, 231

Sustainable fabrics

, 78

Sustainable fashion

, 56–58, 76–77, 186, 195, (see also Vintage fashion)

brands

, 77–78

consumption

, 83

fast-fashion

, 12–16

importance of advancing fashion sustainability agenda

, 12

marketing

, 15

marketing and value creation

, 12

options

, 77

realignment of value from fashion to marketing

, 16–20

Sustainable fast-fashion brand extensions

, 78

Sustainable initiatives

, 59

Sustainable sources

, 19

Sustainably-sourced materials

, 43

System, goals of

, 49–50

System, rules of

, 48

System of fashion

, 32

System of market capitalism

, 32

Systems change

, 43–47

adopting systems change, argument for

, 40–42

Systems investigation

, 28–29

Systems learn

, 29

Systems theory

, 28, 43

T

Thematic analysis

, 198

Theory of the Leisure Class

, 3

This for That

, 196

ThredUp

, 197

Thrift shop owner, practices, motivations and challenges as

, 199–201

Thrift shopper, practices, motivations and challenges as

, 201–202

Thrift shopping

, 198

Thrift store

, 196

Thrifting fashion

, 197

Touchpoints

, 234

Traditional activism

, 66

Traditional crafting

, 69

Transcend paradigms, power to

, 51

Transparency

, 47

U

UK-based influencers

, 85

UK-based online fashion brand

, 111

UK’s largest third-party logistics provider for fashion rental and resale

, 188–189

Umma model agency

, 127

UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)

, 29

Unequal power relations

, 42

Uniformity, exclusivity and inequality, history of

, 106–107

Uniglo

, 127

United Nations

, 76

United Nations Brundtland Report (1987)

, 29

United Nations Conference on Trade and Development

, 12

Upcycling techniques

, 57

V

Value from fashion to marketing, realignment of

, 16–20

Vintage fashion

, 205

environmental issues and ABG

, 206–207

generation-Z

, 207

generation-Z as vintage and second-hand consumers

, 208–210

and second-hand fashion

, 207–208

Vinted

, 177, 198

Visual design

, 246–247

for different cultural contexts

, 247

Visual search

, 248

W

Walmart

, 96

Waste materials

, 57

Water

, 4

Wearable technologies

, 216

Wearables

, 215–216

current trends in market of

, 216–217

and environmental implications

, 218–220

and social implications

, 220–222

three pillars of sustainability

, 217–218

Website design

, 246

WeChat

, 260

Well-being

, 217

Woke’

, 2

Women

, 110

Workers’ Rights Consortium (WRC)

, 164

Workplace, EDI in

, 107–108

World Bank Growth Model

, 159–160

World Development Report (WDR)

, 159

Y

Yarn bombing for Ukraine

, 70

Yarn bombs

, 69

You and Yours

, 230

Z

Zeitgeist, exploring

, 3–7