Grain alignment: effects on fabric and garment drape
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
ISSN: 0955-6222
Article publication date: 1 October 1997
Abstract
Undesirable garment drape often occurs because of the manufacturer’s desire to save fabric by rotating patterns to position them more closely in the marker, and thus cutting the garment off‐grain. This study was designed to subjectively and objectively measure the effect of grain alignment on fabric and garment drape. Data from an apparel industry survey were utilized to establish tilt values for quantitative analysis of drape and shear. Twelve tilt combinations were examined. No significant differences were found between drape values of control samples and those with tilt variations. Generally, shear stiffness and hysteresis values increased as tilt angles increased across all fabrics. Asymmetry of shear curves also increased. Twenty‐one apparel design students subjectively evaluated fabrics draped on a pedestal and skirts constructed in each tilt variation. Fabric drape amount evaluations were more highly correlated with drape values than were drape preference evaluations. Advanced design students were more sensitive to small differences in garment drape than were beginning students.
Keywords
Citation
Orzada, B.T., Moore, M.A. and Collier, B.J. (1997), "Grain alignment: effects on fabric and garment drape", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 9 No. 4, pp. 272-284. https://doi.org/10.1108/09556229710175515
Publisher
:MCB UP Ltd
Copyright © 1997, MCB UP Limited