Expert‐based customized pattern‐making automation: Part I. Basic patterns

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to present a flattening method for developing 2D basic patterns from 3D designed garments. The method incorporates the techniques of professional pattern development for the purpose of pattern‐making automation. The aims of the flattening method are to improve the dressing suitability and to produce pleasing figures by reversing design procedures.

Design/methodology/approach

A flattening method is presented in this paper for developing 3D undevelopable NURBS surfaces in 2D. The automatic operation embeds the expertise of pattern makers by reducing total area differences between the designed garments in 3D styles and the two‐dimensional patterns. Basic pattern‐making invokes the boundary constraints which apply mesh alignments techniques.

Findings

The global area difference between the original 3D designs and the 2D‐developed pattern is controlled within 5 percent in order to reach the final outcomes of basic patterns, whose shapes are similar to the drawing patterns currently utilized in the industry.

Research limitations/implications

This study currently handles simple designs, such as basal designs, and can only flatten garments in symmetric styles. The direct flattening method is developed by this study. In addition, this study is supplemented by expert‐based knowledge, and it establishes basic boundary conditions for various garment patterns to increase the feasibility of flattening automation.

Originality/value

This study introduces the fundamental theories and methodologies used in the automatic making of basic patterns from 3D garment designs. It proposes a flattening method with pattern expertise embedded by real‐time approximations of the global area of the 3D undevelopable designs to the 2D patterns.

Citation

Fang, J. and Ding, Y. (2008), "Expert‐based customized pattern‐making automation: Part I. Basic patterns", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 20 No. 1, pp. 26-40. https://doi.org/10.1108/09556220810843511