Dyeing of flax fabric with natural dye from chestnut shells

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to develop an environmentally friendly dyeing process using brown pigment from chestnut shells (BPFCS). This material is obtained from foodstuff residues and can make a significant contribution to reusing a reproducible biomass resource, economizing petroleum, avoiding water pollution and protecting human health.

Design/methodology/approach

The brown pigment is extracted from the raw material and purified with solvents containing 30 and 100 per cent EtOH. It is then used to dye flax fabric in aqueous solution with added NaCl as a dye accelerator. The effects of dyeing conditions and fastness are investigated. The pigment, and the pristine and dyed fabrics are analysed by Fourier‐transform infrared spectroscopy (FT‐IR) and the fabric samples are observed using a scanning electron microscope (SEM). Fastness to washing, rubbing and light are also measured.

Findings

BPFCS show promising dyeability on cellulosic fibers. White flax fabric is successfully dyed with the pigment to a yellow‐brown colour. The base dyeing conditions are as follows: pigment concentration 16 g/l, NaCl concentration 10 g/l, liquor ratio 10:1, temperature 95°C, dyeing time 40 min. The dyed fabrics have lower fastness to washing and higher fastness to rubbing and light. A total of 4 per cent Al³⁺ or Fe²⁺ treatment of dyed fabric can improve fastness to washing, but decrease fastness to rubbing. The yellowish‐brown samples are transformed to brown or dark‐green after Al³⁺ or Fe²⁺ treatment, respectively. The pigment is a mixture with abundant hydroxyl groups.

Research limitations/implications

The studies of dyeing conditions and fastness are carried out in detail as BPFCS used as a dye. However, a qualitative analysis of the pigment could not be performed due to the difficulty of separating the mixture. The BPFCS used in this paper can dye cellulosic fiber and can also be used to dye other fibers such as silk, wool and PET. Dyeing conditions for these other fibers need to be investigated.

Practical implications

BPFCS may play an important role in the dyeing industries because of its good dyeability, lack of toxicity and resistance to water, rubbing and light. The present work offers an environmentally friendly dye and a simple dyeing method.

Originality/value

At present, no report exists in the literature of work on dyeing flax fabric with BPFCS. This paper represents a preliminary study to determine the relationships of dyeing conditions to fastness and the role of mordant. BPFCS appears to be a new and practically useful natural dye.

Citation

Wang, L., Li, J. and Feng, H. (2009), "Dyeing of flax fabric with natural dye from chestnut shells", Pigment & Resin Technology, Vol. 38 No. 6, pp. 347-352. https://doi.org/10.1108/03699420911000583